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[teklektik]

I connected RTN to B- battery, is it ok ? Because in the manual they say (on the left of the diagram) to don't connect GND to B- but GND is connected to RTN through neutral for halls.

It's not that RTN is eventually tied to B- by some long route as detectable with a voltmeter, it's WHERE it's tied to B-. The point of attachment can be significant even if the schematic shows that different points go to the same place. I would suggest that you follow their recommendation and attach RTN to the connector exactly as shown.

I guess I have to connect the black wire to B-, so either at the same place as shunt+ or shunt-. Is it ok ?

There is greater noise immunity and fewer issues with ground reference for the throttle if you connect the CA GND (black wire) to the controller GND (shunt+) as illustrated in the manual diagram. There can be reasons to do otherwise, but if you don't have or understand those special needs, it's best to do it the 'standard' and more bulletproof way.

For the Kelly, I would recommend that you tie the CA red (B+) wire to the PWR pin so that the key switch controls both the controller and CA.

I believe you will need to add a resistor to your throttle hookup to get the CA limiting to work with that Kelly. This will be as shown in "Appendix D. Adding a CA-DP Connector to a Generic Controller" of the CA V3 Guide except, of course, you will plug the throttle into the controller not the CA (V2 vs V3). You will also see there how to use a hall signal if you wish to eliminate the wheel pickup (CA-DP vs CA-DPS). That illustration shows the external molded shunt, but the green, black, and yellow wires of the CA-DP cable are simple feed-thoughs in that shunt so you have them available straight from the CA-DP cable.

 

[pchen92]

Thanks a lot teklektik. I disconnected the RTN wire which was connected to B-.

I tried to run the controller this week-end but there are two led codes errors: 1-3 followed by 2-4.
1-3: Low voltage error 1. The controller will clear after 5 seconds if battery
volts returns to normal.
2. Check battery volts & recharge if required.
2-4: Throttle error at power-up
Throttle signal is higher than the preset ‘dead zone’ at
Power On. Fault clears when throttle is released.

My guess is that I should connect RTN to B- because the controller is not powered on
RTN is only connected to throttle ground and hall ground at the moment. In the manual it says "RTN: Signal return or power supply return."

 

[teklektik]

You need to start a separate thread about this issue - this thread is for quick help with uncommon schematic issues and requests, etc. A new thread with Kelly in the title will attract folks with relevant expertise that can be brought to bear - more so than this thread anyway...

That said, you need to get you bike working without the CA connected at all. After that works, plug in the CA. Right now, it sounds like you have a basic issue with the bike itself (battery/controller programming, etc) and simply unplugging the CA would answer that question immediately.

If the problem persists, then when you post up, you will need to provide a diagram of how the bike is wired (shunt, CA connections, etc). Without that there is no way to know what is in play - particularly since you seem to want to wire things against the controller instructions. That may not be bad thing, but it suggests that other changes that you think are harmless may be leading to issues in an unexpected way, so lay it all out...

 

[pchen92]

Ok thanks again. I am waiting for an answer from Kelly. If it doesn't help, I'll post a thread

 

[ronaldo]

Are there any schematics available for the Lee Iacocca 24 Volt onboard charger? I tried to do several searches here and I apologize if they are already posted. I'm trying to repair the charger on an EVG ebike I have.

It appears that:
The 1000 mico farad cap has leaked.
R6 and R7 are fried beyond recognition.
Diode D2 is blown.
Possibly the fast blow 12A fuse is blown. I can.t clearly identify this component. It is located under the large 200V capacitor on the upright daughter board.
Other components may be bad, but are not showing external damage.

Of all the items it would be most helpful to know what R6 and R7 are. They are surface mount and I would try to replace them with standard components. If anyone has a picture of the bottom of the board I think that would have the values on it.

The Board is a HP 9203-1 Rev:0.4 94V-0. Also has Galaxy 9927 on it.

Seems a whole lot more complicated than it needs to be.

Don't know why I want to get it going. I just do.

 

[fechter]

Are there any schematics available for the Lee Iacocca 24 Volt onboard charger? I tried to do several searches here and I apologize if they are already posted. I'm trying to repair the charger on an EVG ebike I have.

I don't recall seeing that one around. With that many problems, it may be a LOT of work to actually get it going again.
I would suggest completely replacing the charger with a more modern one.

Here's what an expert says:
http://www.nycewheels.com/lee-iacocca-bicycle.html

Place that might have parts:
http://ezscooternv.wix.com/ebike#!iacocca-ebike/c230d

Figuring out the value of fried resistors may be the show stopper. In some cases, it may be possible to figure everything out by tracing the circuit and comparing to similar units. If there is a switching controller chip with a readable number, sometimes the datasheet for the chip will have a schematic that is very close.

 

[waseem_arshad]

Planning to make a battery pack on my own within 1 and a half months. Need to make a 4p10s pack of 36V that gives me a total of around 8.8 Ahr. For that i need to make a BMS that can help me in monitoring over-voltage, under-voltage, temperature monitoring and cell balancing. Please help me out in designing the BMS. If anyone has any schematic or design please upload it explaining it step by step. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[fechter]

Planning to make a battery pack on my own within 1 and a half months. Need to make a 4p10s pack of 36V that gives me a total of around 8.8 Ahr. For that i need to make a BMS that can help me in monitoring over-voltage, under-voltage, temperature monitoring and cell balancing. Please help me out in designing the BMS. If anyone has any schematic or design please upload it explaining it step by step. Any help would be appreciated.

There are a few topics around that describe various BMS designs. This is a pretty complex circuit with a lot of parts.
I would highly recommend getting one that's already built. It will save you endless hours of time. Spend your time testing/modifying the board instead of starting from scratch.

There are several places that good quality units. There are more that have poor quality units, so best to check out the company's track record before buying.
I've had good luck with a few of these:
http://www.bestechpower.com/pcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypacks/

 

[waseem_arshad]

Planning to make a battery pack on my own within 1 and a half months. Need to make a 4p10s pack of 36V that gives me a total of around 8.8 Ahr. For that i need to make a BMS that can help me in monitoring over-voltage, under-voltage, temperature monitoring and cell balancing. Please help me out in designing the BMS. If anyone has any schematic or design please upload it explaining it step by step. Any help would be appreciated.

There are a few topics around that describe various BMS designs. This is a pretty complex circuit with a lot of parts.
I would highly recommend getting one that's already built. It will save you endless hours of time. Spend your time testing/modifying the board instead of starting from scratch.

There are several places that good quality units. There are more that have poor quality units, so best to check out the company's track record before buying.
I've had good luck with a few of these:
http://www.bestechpower.com/pcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypacks/

I would like to minimise the cost of production as much as possible. Already I'm buying the cells as well as a motor which itself is costing me a lot. So I thought of making the battery pack completely by myself including the bms so that I could customise it the way i like. If possible post the links of the few bms designs which you were talking about. Also, for starters a voltage monitoring circuit would help( to monitor over and under voltage).

 

[amberwolf]

Unless you're salvaging all the parts for the BMS from stuff you already have, the parts for it alone will cost you a lot more than buying a prebuilt one.

 

[fechter]

Unless you're salvaging all the parts for the BMS from stuff you already have, the parts for it alone will cost you a lot more than buying a prebuilt one.

+1
It would be quite difficult to build your own BMS from parts for less than what you can get one already made. The one I'm using on my 14s pack cost me around $25.

Here is a topic on a DIY BMS that I designed years ago: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26554&hilit=zephyr

There are some other designs out there.

If you are really on a budget, one option would be to not use any BMS. You would still need some kind of voltmeter to watch the pack voltage while riding and you would want to measure individual cell voltages once in a while to check balance. If you avoid coming close to full discharge and the cells are well matched, this could work OK. If you plan to let other people use it, then it would probably be a bad idea, as running it too low even once can ruin a bunch of the cells.

 

[joecgz]

Does anyone have a circuit for the throttle tamer or something similar?
The only thing I could come up with is the Current mode circuit I have a DIY hub-motor
bike based on a old Huffy beach cruiser frame and the throttle is to responsive and
twitchy. Arduino or the like would OK as long a code is available.

Thanks Joe

 

[mountain biker]

okay....my request. i have 3 sla batteries all 12 volt wired in series. i have 36 volts. how do i hook up a 12 volt solar charger to them. have 50 watt 12 volt solar panel. any typical solar charger is fine pwm something cheap 20 bucks lets say. i want to be able to charge my batteries while riding with electric motor power on. how can i do this? and a second request how can i add your first post...make it a 24 volt and switch to 36 volt to charger system? thank you. i feel better for asking.

 

[bobc]

on ebay search for "boost converter". You should find a wide selection comfortably below your 20 bucks target.
Some are quite fancy and controlled by alpha display + buttons & menus, simpler ones have a couple of screw trimpots to set volts and amps.

 

[glenn0010]

Hi Guys,

I am designing my second (cheaper) E bike controller and I am currently designing my gate drive circuitry. With help from this blog:
http://tahmidmc.blogspot.com.mt/2013/01/using-high-low-side-driver-ir2110-with.html
I have gotten pretty close to finalizing my design however there is just 1 issue. I would like to have the ability to switch the high side MOSFET with a 100% Duty cycle which is currently not possible due to the bootstrap capacitor.

This can be solved with an isolated supply to the high side MOSFET. Having said that I am not sure on several things. Is just one isolated supply suitable for all three high side MOSFETS? Also then the bootstrap circuitry can be eliminated correct?

Regards Glenn

 

[fechter]

Hi Guys,

I am designing my second (cheaper) E bike controller and I am currently designing my gate drive circuitry. With help from this blog:
http://tahmidmc.blogspot.com.mt/2013/01/using-high-low-side-driver-ir2110-with.html
I have gotten pretty close to finalizing my design however there is just 1 issue. I would like to have the ability to switch the high side MOSFET with a 100% Duty cycle which is currently not possible due to the bootstrap capacitor.

This can be solved with an isolated supply to the high side MOSFET. Having said that I am not sure on several things. Is just one isolated supply suitable for all three high side MOSFETS? Also then the bootstrap circuitry can be eliminated correct?

Regards Glenn

Yes, a single dc-dc converter can handle all the FETs. The peak current is high, but the average is low, so a small one will work with a big cap on the output.

Generally you would only want 100% duty cycle with a brushed motor. With a brushless motor, even at 100% duty cycle, the commutation switching is enough for a bootstrap circuit to work.

 

[glenn0010]

Hi Guys,

I am designing my second (cheaper) E bike controller and I am currently designing my gate drive circuitry. With help from this blog:
http://tahmidmc.blogspot.com.mt/2013/01/using-high-low-side-driver-ir2110-with.html
I have gotten pretty close to finalizing my design however there is just 1 issue. I would like to have the ability to switch the high side MOSFET with a 100% Duty cycle which is currently not possible due to the bootstrap capacitor.

This can be solved with an isolated supply to the high side MOSFET. Having said that I am not sure on several things. Is just one isolated supply suitable for all three high side MOSFETS? Also then the bootstrap circuitry can be eliminated correct?

Regards Glenn

Yes, a single dc-dc converter can handle all the FETs. The peak current is high, but the average is low, so a small one will work with a big cap on the output.

Generally you would only want 100% duty cycle with a brushed motor. With a brushless motor, even at 100% duty cycle, the commutation switching is enough for a bootstrap circuit to work.

Thanks for the reply.

I tought the same thing. Between the commutation states the capacitor should be charged back up.

I am using a 32kHz switching frequency. I was thinking about 20V 20uf bootstrap capacitors. These should be adaquate right?

 

[fechter]

Thanks for the reply.

I tought the same thing. Between the commutation states the capacitor should be charged back up.

I am using a 32kHz switching frequency. I was thinking about 20V 20uf bootstrap capacitors. These should be adaquate right?

Yes, that should be plenty.

 

[lionelt]

Here a schematic of my future ebike vector with MXSUS V3, Lyen 18FET, 3x LIPO multistar 6S 20AH (cabling ready for 6S2P), front led light 27W and USB plug

No BMS, just lipo alarm with switch to avoid discharge. Charge on ebike with 48v powersupply and DC StepUP 1200w to adjust 73.8v (4.1v /cell)

Wattmeter and all informations (discharge and charge current)

Charge at home each 10 discharge cycle with R/C charger.

 

[fechter]

Here a schematic of my future ebike vector with MXSUS V3, Lyen 18FET, 3x LIPO multistar 6S 20AH (cabling ready for 6S2P), front led light 27W and USB plug

No BMS, just lipo alarm with switch to avoid discharge. Charge on ebike with 48v powersupply and DC StepUP 1200w to adjust 73.8v (4.1v /cell)

Wattmeter and all informations (discharge and charge current)

Where did you get the 80v to 12v dc-dc converters?

 

[lionelt]

Where did you get the 80v to 12v dc-dc converters?

from the bay :

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/231311477691

i know it is not good quality, but amps are very under max :

1 for LED (about 3A) et 1 for USB (less than 1A)

 

[fechter]

from the bay :

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/231311477691

i know it is not good quality, but amps are very under max :

1 for LED (about 3A) et 1 for USB (less than 1A)

OK. Merci.

 

[DasDouble]

Hi folks, 

I would like to know if it's possible to install an charger (if possible an EATON charger) in my Vector Frame, together with my Max-E. Is it a problem to have the charger plugged in the charging port from my Max-E, while driving? If this would be possible, the only thing, I would have to do for charging would be to plug the charger into a power wall.
What do you guys think about it?

-Elias

 

[glenn0010]

Hi Guys,

I am designing the power stage of my controller. Could anyone give any suggestions on how to best connect the traces between the transistors. I am expecting to pass around 20A through the traces. I am going to use a 1oz PCB should I just pass traces and add copper wires on top of them or are there better ways there?

Another elegant solution to solve this problem would be to something like the MTI85W100GC : http://ixapps.ixys.com/Datasheet/MTI85W100GC.pdf this would solve these problems.

Some users on the forum however have said that there were some heat dissipation issues.

Regards Glenn

 

[fechter]

Hi Guys,

I am designing the power stage of my controller. Could anyone give any suggestions on how to best connect the traces between the transistors. I am expecting to pass around 20A through the traces. I am going to use a 1oz PCB should I just pass traces and add copper wires on top of them or are there better ways there?

There are lots of ways to do it. If you're just building one, I would just lay copper wire on top of the high current traces and solder it down.
In factory made controllers, I've seen a variety of approaches. One is to make a copper bus bar with legs. Legs are located close to the FET connections so the PCB traces are short and can be bridged with solder. The bar goes on the top of the board. You could do this with heavy copper wire as well.
Another approach is a strip of copper sheet that is cut to the same shape as the board trace and laid down on top of it before soldering. Much like a wire, but nice and neat. These traces should be extra wide wherever possible, like 0.25".

You can get an idea from the picture below. I think they just piled up a bunch of solder, but some copper in there is much better. The actual connection to the FET leg is narrow but as short as possible.