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hey boys, don't forget this is a sticky thread, all will read your antics for years to come whilst trying to find out about some elusive circuit :roll:

Frankensteins Monster lives (I had to build the circuit on the back of a cornflakes packet as I was sent the wrong board...Pretty it aint!).
Both pots turn the relay off and on ok, though I had to disconnect the latching bit. (once it latches it wont turn off, since it is connected through the relay and bypassing the rest of the circuit?).
Getting a bit tired to be playing with batteries, so I will continue tomorrow.
Just so I have no doubt whilst trying to get it to behave as I want, vr1 should handle the low voltage cutoff?


I'm real happy its working, and there was only 1 casualty in its creation, my poor PTM switch will never Make when Pushed again :roll: (shorted it out, it made a great fuse).
Thanks very much Bob, I owe you one for hanging in there to help me!
 
Jozzer said:
hey boys, don't forget this is a sticky thread, all will read your antics for years to come whilst trying to find out about some elusive circuit :roll:

Frankensteins Monster lives (I had to build the circuit on the back of a cornflakes packet as I was sent the wrong board...Pretty it aint!).
Both pots turn the relay off and on ok, though I had to disconnect the latching bit. (once it latches it wont turn off, since it is connected through the relay and bypassing the rest of the circuit?).
Getting a bit tired to be playing with batteries, so I will continue tomorrow.
Just so I have no doubt whilst trying to get it to behave as I want, vr1 should handle the low voltage cutoff?


I'm real happy its working, and there was only 1 casualty in its creation, my poor PTM switch will never Make when Pushed again :roll: (shorted it out, it made a great fuse).
Thanks very much Bob, I owe you one for hanging in there to help me!

sorry about the latching bit, i drew the circuit in a hurry, and the turnoff needs to break the ground connection, of course. the latching relay i picked off another schematic, and yes, vr1 sets the low voltage, so that it drops below q1's turn-on voltage when the voltage gets low enough.

you don't need the latching part or the start button, as when you connect the battery to the circuit if the voltage is high enough it will turn on q1 and if it is too high it will turn on q2, and the test should not start when the voltage is out of range anyway.
 
i fixed the schematic so the next person to try it will have the right data.

i need to get more sleep.....
 
I need a LVC circuit that I would like to use with various a123-based sub-packs. The minimum sub-pack size would be 4 cells in series, and the largest would be 10 cells. I'd like the the cutoff to occur at about 2.2V or 2.3V per cell, under load, so the adjustable range needs to vary from about 9V to about 23V.

I know I could use the DeWalt BMS for 10-cell sub-packs, but that is too restrictive, and in order to take advantage of the cell balancing feature, you have to use the DeWalt charger. I have lots of RC balancers that will do up to 10 cells, and coupled with standard CC/CV SLA chargers, allow much quicker charging solutions. The remaining problem I have to having a fairly bullet-proof a123-based ebike pack setup is a way to keep from overdischarging the cells. That is just about the only way I've seen that you can kill an a123 cell.

I thought about using the brake inhibit line on the clyte controllers to implement a simple LVC circuit that was adjustable and while this would be fine as basically a "fail safe", it would only really prevent killing cells if one big pack is used, where all the cells are paralleled first, and then connected in series. Most of my setups are mixed configurations of sub-packs, in varying numbers in series and in parallel. What I'd like to do is to standardise on a couple of sub-pack sizes, and then have an LVC circuit in each sub-pack.

Anyway, and help would be greatly appreciated. :)

-- Gary
 
national makes a chip intended to reset a microprocessor on low voltage that would work well. the open drain outputs can be tied together so any of them that detects the low voltage condition would pull down the ebrake line.

the chip uses very little power. you would just need a resistive divider on the input to set it to the proper cutout voltage.


http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM8364.html
 
it occurred to me that using a small surface mount part could be a problem for someone building a prototype. the national part i suggested is a very good solution, but the 5 pin so23 package is tough to hand-wire.

here is a part that would work in a to-92 3 pin transistor package.

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/21889d.pdf
 
Thanks, Bob. This does look like it would be easier to solder on a proto board. :)

I'm still confused about how this would work, and what the rest of the circuit would look like, but I'll keep studying. :?

-- Gary
 
GGoodrum said:
Thanks, Bob. This does look like it would be easier to solder on a proto board. :)

I'm still confused about how this would work, and what the rest of the circuit would look like, but I'll keep studying. :?

-- Gary

i'll try a non-engineer's explanation, or at least as close as i can come with engineering being my "first language" and anything else being a translation that inherently loses something:

the mcp111 is open drain output, meaning that the output will pull down a line to which it is attached when the supply voltage drops below the limit.

the ebrake line is typically pulled up to 15v or less with a resistor of 10k or so, meaning that a driver must sink a few milliamps to pull that voltage down close to 0v.

you could put one device on each cell, with the outputs connected together, and the common output line would be pulled down if any of the sensors detected a voltage below their limit. they have devices with a number of preset trigger points, and my experience with the a123 m1 cells is that they have <20 milliohms series impedance,so at 30A they would drop about .6v, and the standard 2.32v part would then cut off at a 2.9v cell voltage which my testing has shown is a good point for the m1 cells.

this way you could put as many cells in series as you like, put an mc111 on each, tie the outputs of the mc111s together and to the ebrake input, and if any cell falls below the trigger voltage the brake would be asserted.

if you wanted to just use one device to tell when the voltage of a serial string dropped below a preset limit, you would need a resistive divider to let the device see the appropriate fraction of the total voltage.

this quickly becomes a problem, because it is ok if each cell of 10 drops .1v but not ok if one cell drops 1v. it quickly becomes apparent that the voltage of each cell must be sensed.

the first device i mentioned has the input voltage separated from the sensed voltage, so you would just need to power it from 1 or 2 cells and then use a divider to set the trigger point. the device uses less than a microamp so unbalancing the pack is not an issue. the second device has common supply and sensing input, but once again the current drain is so low it is not an issue.

suppose you put a 2.32v mc111 on each cell, and tied the outputs together. the device draws much less current than the self discharge rate of the cell, so it will not measurably affect the power you can get out of the cell.

any time the voltage under load of a single cell drops below 2.32v which would be 30a load and a cell voltage of 2.9v, the output open drain fet would turn on and pull down the common output, which could be connected then to the ebrake line. you could use the 2.62v devices or the 2.90v or 2.32v devices, depending on your criteria.

if you wanted to use one sensing device to measure a higher voltage, you could use the first device i suggested, and power the device from 1 or 2 cells, then divide down the total pack voltage to where your cutoff voltage would trigger the device.

because the mc111 is only a 3 terminal part it is a bit more difficult to divide down the voltage, but still possible. suppose you had a 10 cell pack and wanted to cut off at 29v. you could put a 100k pot across the pack, and adjust the wiper to supply about 1/10 of the total voltage to the mc111. since the supply current of the mc111 is so low, the current flowing through the pot would be plenty to keep it running.

when the voltage from ground to wiper dropped below 2.9v the mc111 would turn on, pulling down the output. the output current needed to pull down an ebrake signal would then become dominant in the voltage divider, so this would be a problem unless you buffered the output with a fet or op amp. using a 10k pot might be a compromise that would work, but it would suffer from inaccuracy with temperature and voltage change.

a way to avoid this problem would be to supply power to the mc111 through a regulator, with an output voltage less than the trigger voltage. you would probably need to buffer this through a diode to keep it from driving the sense voltage. this may be a bit over the top, but if you used a 3.3v regulator and a .7v drop diode and connected the diode cathode to the power input of the mc111 along with the divided down pack voltage, the regulator could supply the power to drive down the output after the device triggered on the input going below 2.9v, without too much error from the supply voltage moving.

a regulated voltage fed to one input of a comparator and the sense voltage to the other is the basic technique, but these modern devices have simplified the task considerably, also preventing false triggers from brief drops in voltage.

this way when the mc111 turns on and sucks down the voltage divider the regulator could supply the mc111 power to pull down the output. the alternative would be to use a voltage divider that supplied enough current, say using a 1k pot on a 10 cell pack, but that would present a 33 ma load and shorten the pack output a bit unless switched off when not in use.

the mc111 and other solutions like it provide the combination of a reference source, and a comparator with some hysteresis to prevent false tgriggering.

using a voltage reference, voltage divider, and op amp can provide the same functions, but not in a convenient small package like this.

the need to reset a microprocessor in a laptop when the battery dies has spawned a number of devices like this which will serve this purpose. i have used the mc111 in a bms prototype myself, and it works very well.

the higher voltage versions of the part could also be used to cut off charge when a cell rises above the desired trigger voltage, but none of the voltages provided standard are quite as well suited as the standard parts for low voltage cutoff.

using one of the mc111 parts for low cutoff and one for high, with a bit of tweaking, can provide the basis for a simple reliable accurate bms for the a123 cells. my experience has shown that unless you can ignore the loss of a few cells capacity it is necessary to monitor each cell.
 
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I think I have it figured out now, but I still have a few questions. First, unless I make a pack with 4, or 5, or 6 cells in parallel, where unless something chatistrophic happens, all the cells are going to get discharged at roughly the same rate, I think I will need to monitor each cell or block of parallel cells instead of the total pack voltage.

I'm not sure what the term "open drain" means, but I assume that it means that each of these chips do not need to be connected to the common controller ground, right? If I understand what you are saying, I would connect the Vdd pin to the + side of a cell/cell block, the Vss pin to the - side of the same cell/cell block and then gang all the Vout pins together, is that correct? So, in effect, all these chips would be connected in series as well. Then, I connect the combined Vout to the signal line of the ebrake input, but nothing else, right? Not sure how that works without some sort of ground reference, but if it works, I guess I don't need to know. :)

I think the minimum configuration I would ever want to use would be 2p, or 4.6Ah. I'm still trying to figure out how many in series but that really depends on what I end up wanting to do about charging. Multiples of 4s makes it easy to use just about any of the existing, higher-end, SLA chargers because most of these have the same sort of constant current/constant voltage charging profiles that work well with a123 cells, and have similar cutoff voltages. I have a 48V Zivan NG1 charger that charges at up to 18A until a cutoff of 58.6V, which is very close to the optimum 58.4V for a 16s a123 configuration (3.65V per cell...), and then tapers the current off until it gets below about .25A. There are lots of other CC/CV SLA chargers for 12V, 24V, 36V, etc., which equate to a123 configurations of 4s, 8s, 12s, etc., so it would be logical to make my standardized sub-pack size as some 4s multiple.

While 16s setups work fine with my setups when my wife rides, I find it takes many more watts to get my 250 pounds up and down the same hills we have around here. Rarely will she even come close to 2000W peaks. Her "burn rate" is usually around 500 mAh/mi, so with a 16s4p setup, the range is around 18 miles. For me, however, I need about 2500W to comfortably get up and down the same hills, something I can't achieve with 16s. With 18s, I can get there, but my usage is around 700-750 mAh/mi, so I need to use an 18s6p configuration to get around the same range. I have tried 20s on my bigger bike, which brings down the rate to about 600 mAh/mi, so with a 5p setup, I can actually get a bit more than 18 miles, and use 8 fewer cells (20x5=100 vs 18x6=108...). The problem is that I have 5303s in both of my folding bikes, which my wife and I like to ride together, which is perfect for 16s setups, from a top-end point-of-view. 18s makes mine go almost too fast and I know 20s will be way too much. I'm using a 5304 on the Townie, which has 26" wheels (vs 20" on the folding bikes...) and the 20s setup works quite well. I suspect that 20s would be fine if I used a 5304 on the 20" bikes as well, but that's not what's on there now. Both of these 5303s are front-mounted, and I have been considering switching to rear mounted versions, so that the bikes will be easier to fold, and if I do I will switch to 5304s, but that is not a "cheap" solution.

So, getting back on-topic, I need to decide what configurations I need to run, and then pick a sub-pack size that fits. If I switch motors in the folding bikes, I can use 20s for everything, in which case I will probably do 10s2p sub-packs. Although this won't work with my SLA-based charging solutions, I do have a number of a123-compatible RC chargers and balancers that work with up to 10 cells at a 5A rate, which will charge and balance a 10s2p sub-pack in about an hour. If I don't switch motors, I'll probably keep my wife's with the current 16s setup but switch mine to run 20s. The current 18s setup is a pain to charge. I charge the 16s6p portion with the NG1, and then I use Soneil 6V/2A charger with a 2s6p "booster" pack. It takes a ton longer to do the 2s6p pack, which I really want to do away with in an updated setup.

Another option, I suppose, is to standardize on 8s/24V (actually closer to 26.4V...) sub-blocks, and use two of them with the one bike, and three of them in a 24s 72V (80V...) configuration on the other two bikes. I'd definitely want ot go to the other motor, but there are also controller issues to consider. Right now I have a 7240 on the big bike, so that's not a problem, but on my 20" I'm curently using the 4840. I have one of the newer 4840v2 controller on my wife's, and although these are supposed to now use the higher voltage FETs, I have no idea at this point if that means it will work on 80V. If it would, I could swap controllers, and put this on my bike, but I'll have to see.

Anyway, this got way too long. The good news is that it looks like these MCP111 chips can be used, along with the brake inhibit line on the controller, as a fairly inexpensive LVC function, tailored to use with my a123-based packs.

Thanks -- Gary
 
GGoodrum said:
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I think I have it figured out now, but I still have a few questions. First, unless I make a pack with 4, or 5, or 6 cells in parallel, where unless something chatistrophic happens, all the cells are going to get discharged at roughly the same rate, I think I will need to monitor each cell or block of parallel cells instead of the total pack voltage.

I'm not sure what the term "open drain" means, but I assume that it means that each of these chips do not need to be connected to the common controller ground, right? If I understand what you are saying, I would connect the Vdd pin to the + side of a cell/cell block, the Vss pin to the - side of the same cell/cell block and then gang all the Vout pins together, is that correct? So, in effect, all these chips would be connected in series as well. Then, I connect the combined Vout to the signal line of the ebrake input, but nothing else, right? Not sure how that works without some sort of ground reference, but if it works, I guess I don't need to know. :)

i did a quick search and found that you cannot buy the mcp111 parts without buying 2000 pcs at 33 cents each. that makes the solution useless for a hobbyist who is just building a couple of packs. that is often the roadblock we run into.

open drain on a fet means the same as open collector on a transistor output, and it can only pull the voltage down to the ground to which the sensing device is connected. diodes might be used to make this work, but i guess i was not clear about that, it is not your misunderstanding, but my failure to consider this. you would need to connect the outputs together and then have that referenced to a ground that could be used for zero reference to the next stage, and that requires another stage to combine the outputs in a way that will switch a single signal if the total pack voltage is above what the devices can handle.

the first part i mentioned, which is too difficult to mount by hand, could be used this way, but the to92 transistor packages would not work.


the same solution provided by these devices can be implemented with a comparator and voltage reference, but that is not as simple and requires more parts and more expense.

let me take a look at parts that are actually available off the shelf and i will come up with a better solution for you. this is actually a problem i am working on right now, as i have a new pack of lifepo4 cells with no bms, and i need to figure out an undervoltage solution for it. i can think of a few solutions off the top of my head, but i need to consider it a bit more, and consider what parts can actually be purchased today in small quantities.

i need to do some work on my barn as it is raining and the hay is getting wet, but in a day or two i will post a better solution if nobody else beats me to it.
 
Thanks, Bob, I appreciate the effort. I look forward to seeing what you might be able to come up with for what sounds like could become a more common problem.

-- Gary
 
If I lived closer I'd stop by and fix your barn whilst you knocked us up some BMS's Bob :lol: Be carefull up that ladder!
 
i won't get up on the roof; i have a long handled roller that i can use to spread sno-seal onto the roof. it is a great white reflective sealer that keeps the rain out and reflects a lot of the heat in the summer.

the point i neglected in the combination of the 3 terminal sensors is that you need an optic isolator connected between the output and ground of each sensor, then the optic isolator secondary can be connected between the system ground and the signal to be pulled down. this will let you combine the outputs of several sensors without the need for a common ground.

there are several voltage sensor solutions available like the lm809/810 that could be used this way. i'll do a bit more research and post the best solution i come up with.

this week i will be getting the first LifeBatt lifepo4 pack for ebikes, and i am putting it into a system for cruzbike. the first pack does not have a bms, so i will be building one for it that should be useful for just your task.
 
after a bit of searching i have come up with the solution i intend to use for low voltage cutoff, and it should work pretty well. my design criteria were that the parts had to be available off the shelf, low cost, and could be hand wired by a hobbyist.

i found the microchip tc54vn270e2b at mouser for 40 cents in qty 100 and they are in stock. this is a to92 package (3 terminal transistor package) that is easy to prototype. in single quantity they are 48 cents each. this is the 2.70v version; the output will go low when the voltage drops below 2.70v. it is possible to adjust the voltage trigger point upward with a resistor pair, see the attached data sheet.

one of these devices would be placed across each cell, or each parallel cluster of cells. my problem with clusters of cells is the need to unsolder them to figure out which one fails if that happens.

it is then necessary to combine the outputs, and the standard method is to use opto-couplers. these devices consist of an led and a phototransistor. when the led turns on the phototransistor turns on, and the two are electrically isolated. it is then possible to tie the output stages together so that when any cell drops below 2.70v under load it turns on its opto and pulls down the combined output signal. the output signal could be tied directly to the ebrake line, or latched with a flip-flop.

i found the avago CNY17-4 000E also at mouser for 17 cents in qty 100 or 30 cents in single qty. this is a very good opto and the lowest price i could find. using the optos makes it possible to drive a single logic signal from the many different voltages from each cell in a string that can be as long as is desired, within reason. the only limitation would be leakage current which would not be a problem with the number of cells we would use for an ebike.

the same voltage detector could be used to sense the high voltage cutoff limit during charge by adding the resistor pair as shown in the data sheet, or by using higher voltage versions of the tc54 or mcp111. the simplest implementation would be to charge the pack serially at a high current and then switch to a lower balancing current when the first cell hits the upper limit. it would also be possible to build a more intelligent system that charged each cell individually.

when i get a bit more time i will sketch up a schematic and post it, and when the parts come in and i get my prototype working with the LifeBatt i will get tomorrow i will post the results. the voltage sensors are accurate to a couple of percent and include hysteresis, so for less than a buck per channel this will make a pretty good low voltage cutoff system.

the design is not perfect, as is always the case when cost is an object. if the output signals are not latched the ebrake line will cut on and off as the load current varies, but this would let one continue to use the pack for awhile at lower power after it cuts out the first time. the tc54 draws only a microamp, and if you use a resistor pair to adjust the voltage upwards it will need to draw 10x that or more to work well, but that is still much less than the self discharge. in general, it is quite a reasonable solution.
 

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i forgot to mention, that since the original request was for a cutoff at a lower voltage, the 2.1v version of the tc54 is also available at mouser for the same price. this is as close to the requested 2.2-2.3v target possible with a standard part, but could be adjusted upwards with a resistor pair.

i feel that is a bit low for good cell life, but my experience is limited. using the 2.7v parts it is not possible to go down. but with the 2.1v parts you can always go up. it does require a resistor pair that raises the quiescent current from 1 microamp to 100, but that is still quite small.
 
Great stuff, Bob. :) I look forward to your schematic. For a123-based packs, I think 2.7V might be a little high, but maybe not. I'll have to think about it. Yesterday I went on a ride where I used about 8.2 Ah out of the total available of 13.8 Ah in my 18s6p a123 setup. I kept watch on the WattsUp's readout and maxed out I never saw the voltage drop below 55V. This was with current peaks that started out around 36-37A and ended up pulling about 40A. That means the under load voltage never got below 3.05V per cell, so maybe 2.70V is okay. It has been my experience with a123 cells in RC applications (mostly helicopters...) that with well-balanced packs, the power will remain very constant, all the way up to the end, and then it dumps fast. LiPos, even high-end ones, tend to have the power taper off as you get towards the end of the duration. That means the voltage drop is greater at the end of the capacity. With a123s, this increase in drop is less pronounced. I need to run my setup down to where it starts to dump to know for sure, but I suspect that using 2.70V for the cutoff will be a safe number that will keep a block from getting over-discharged, which is really the whole point of this exercise.

Also, FWIW, I've never seen any Lithium-based cell fail in an open condition. When they fail completely, they dead-short. This almost always kills the other cells that are wired in parallel with that cell. That said, it is really hard to kill a123 cells if they are paralleled in "multi-p" configurations. As I've said, I have inadvertantly dead shorted a 16s5p pack, to the point that wires and connectors melted and caught fire, but it didn't even knock the cells out-of-balance.

With a123 cells, and other LiFePO4-based packs, overcharging hasn't really been a problem. They don't blow up like LiPos will if you go too much above 4.2V per cell. When a123 cells first came out, we were using regular LiPo chargers at first. Worst case is you might shorten cell life, but even that hasn't been proven, to my knowledge. For the most part, I don't worry too much about balancing packs, but I will check once in awhile. I think a123 cells will do a bit of auto-balancing, if they are allowed to fully charge. Nonetheless, I am going to add balancing leads to the new packs I make this time, the ones that will also get this new BMS function. I've got a pile of 10-cell TP-210V auto balancers that work fine with a123 cells. I think with this new BMS functionality and getting back into the habit of balancing packs as they charge, I can finally stop worrying about killing a123 cells, and just ride. :)

-- Gary
 
GGoodrum said:
Also, FWIW, I've never seen any Lithium-based cell fail in an open condition. When they fail completely, they dead-short. This almost always kills the other cells that are wired in parallel with that cell. That said, it is really hard to kill a123 cells if they are paralleled in "multi-p" configurations. As I've said, I have inadvertantly dead shorted a 16s5p pack, to the point that wires and connectors melted and caught fire, but it didn't even knock the cells out-of-balance.

-- Gary

I've had a couple dozen lithium cobalt 18650s fail open circuit when I discharged too far during initial pack testing. And two more fail open circuit for no obvious reason later. Fortunately for my very parallel pack, none failed closed circuit. Of course, all 18650s have built-in PTC's designed to facilitate open circuit failure. Emoli's are also known to pop their internal fuse when pushed to extremes.

You can see one of my failed, ruptured cells below. The eight cells closest to the ruptured cell in the top row all failed open circuit. The four cells on the bottom did not fail, and are still in use in my rebuilt, 15p20s pack. There was lots of smoke and melted solder, but no fire. :) Out of 320+ cells, two died in use open circuit for no apparent reason, and a couple were DOA and not included in the pack. The other deaths were my fault.

img_1872_432.jpg
 
We used emolis, out of Milwaukee 28V packs initiall in RC applications, but they proved to be too heavy, mainly due to the steel can, for effective use in most setups. I then made a bunch of 10s packs that I used on my first ebike, a Giant eSuede. I still use these as add-on packs for my Bionix-based mountain bike, which was my second ebike.

In any case, I have managed to kill some emolis, but in those cases they dead-shorted. The pack still has voltage, just lower. Anyway, I just assumed they always dead-shorted, like the bag-based LiPos I've used.

With a123s, which I have more experience with, the ones that have failed have either been because I over discharged them, or because I applied too much heat to them while soldering. In the case of the latter, the positive end of the cell pops up a bit and there is some slight venting. In any case, the cells were a dead short.

Regardless of what happens, this little BMS implementation can keep cells from being over discharged and so remain healthy. :)

-- Gary
 
what you guys are saying is in line with my experience. i think it is critical not to over,-discharge any lithium technology, but with the a123 and other lifepo4 cells when we kill a cell we have lost a thousand cycles or more.

here is a drawing showing how to put one TC54 or MCP111 voltage sensor on each cell, then combine the outputs with optocouplers. using the parts i suggested this can be done for about 60 cents per cell in qty 100 or 75 cents in single quantity. that seems like a reasonable cost-benefit to me.

the data sheets i posted show all the relevant specs. the voltage sensors are available in multiple voltages with 2% accuracy, and resistor pairs can be used to increase the voltage trigger point, but not to lower it. they have built in hysteresis and i think if they are used to trigger the optos and then the ebrake, as shown, that it should work pretty well.

when any cell drops below the trigger point, its output will go low, turning on the led in the coupler, turning on the phototransistor, and then pulling down the ebrake line. each battery has its own sensor, so the sensor only sees the voltage of its own battery, and all the outputs are optically isolated to produce a single signal referenced to ground.

the optos i chose have a high current transfer ratio, and the voltage sensors can supply 7 ma to drive the led, so there should be no problem pulling down the ebrake line without a buffer. if a pullup resistor is used on the output that sources a couple of milliamps that should easily handle the leakage current of as many cells in series and optos in parallel as anybody could want. (well, almost anybody, certainly it would handle a 100v pack)

i will start with the 2.7v devices for my a123 packs, as i have at least 3 sets in parallel and at 20A per string that should give me a cell voltage of somewhere around 2.9v after subracting the drop due to internal resistance when under max load. i also got a batch of 2.1v devices to use with the new LifeBatt i am expecting tomorrow, as that is what they recommended. if the 2.7v turns out to be too high i will use resistors to modify the 2.1v ones if necessary.

if it looks like i need overvoltage protection, i will use the 2.7v devices with a resistor pair raising them up to 4.0v or so, and using the same circuit to switch the charger into balance mode. it would be possible to use the 4.0v devices with no resistors, or to electronically switch in the resistors to shift the setpoint when in charge mode, but at 40 cents each it seems like a better solution to just use 2 voltage sensors. if i were in mass production i would consider the less expensive solution.

adding the resistor pair increases the quiescent current from a microamp to a hundred, but that is still very small.

the schematic shows 2 cells in series, but can be expanded indefinitely. the only thing i have not determined for sure is if the TC45 is internally current limited, or if it might be necessary to use a resistor in series with the led. i think it will be ok without the resistor, but i put in a support request to microchip, and they usually answer quickly. the low voltage signal should not be asserted longterm in actual use, as once the load is removed the voltage should go back up, and the data sheet indicates 7 ma output current, so i think it will do that indefinitely. if not it will be another penny per channel for a resistor :)
 

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Using the opto couplers is a great idea. There is no limit to how many cells you can run this way.

Do the voltage monitor chips have a 'sleep' mode? If the pack sat around unused for a long time and self-discharged, the opto coupler would turn on and drain the cell even more. It would be nice if there was an easy way to put them in standby. I suppose you could have a big connector between all the cell connections and the circuit so you could unplug it for storage.
 
This is great. I'm going to go order a bunch of parts now. Thanks, Bob. :)

What I'm thinking about doing for the "storage mode" issue is to have this board plug into the balancing plugs I will have on the packs. If the packs will sit for any length of time, I'll just unplug them.

I have another question. Are the LEDs in these optocouplers visible, or are they buried in the combined part? It might be useful to know which block triggers the cutoff first.

-- Gary
 
fechter said:
Using the opto couplers is a great idea. There is no limit to how many cells you can run this way.

Do the voltage monitor chips have a 'sleep' mode? If the pack sat around unused for a long time and self-discharged, the opto coupler would turn on and drain the cell even more. It would be nice if there was an easy way to put them in standby. I suppose you could have a big connector between all the cell connections and the circuit so you could unplug it for storage.

the standby current is 1 MICROAMP! that is 1 million hours to discharge an amp hour.... that is OVER A HUNDRED YEARS!!!

the sensors will not affect the self-discharge of the cells, which i am sure is much higher than that.

even if you use a pair of resistors to shift the voltage setpoint and increase the current drain 100x it will still take over 2 years to discharge a 2 Ah cell.

i can see how if you let the cell go dead the voltage sensor would turn on and drain it down some more, but once it got down below 1.5v or so the led would not turn on and the discharge would stop.
 
GGoodrum said:
This is great. I'm going to go order a bunch of parts now. Thanks, Bob. :)

What I'm thinking about doing for the "storage mode" issue is to have this board plug into the balancing plugs I will have on the packs. If the packs will sit for any length of time, I'll just unplug them.

I have another question. Are the LEDs in these optocouplers visible, or are they buried in the combined part? It might be useful to know which block triggers the cutoff first.

-- Gary

i have never seen an optocoupler with a visible led. these are 6 pin dip packages with opaque plastic housing. if you really wanted to you could use a visible led and separate phototransistor, as the output of the sensor is guaranteed to go to 7 ma and that would be plenty. alternately you could take all the signals out to a central monitoring station.

i got a response from microchip that they would find out for me whether the led current is internally limited or if a resistor is needed. if a resistor was chosen to keep the led current down to a milliamp that would probably eliminate the issue of the circuit draining down a battery faster than its self discharge, and it would raise the voltage threshold where the led current would become negligible.
 
bobmcree said:
the standby current is 1 MICROAMP! that is 1 million hours to discharge an amp hour.... that is OVER A HUNDRED YEARS!!!

OK, that's pretty low. I guess I shouldn't worry about that.
 
i gave a bit more thought to the discharge issue. for the sensors i will use at 2.1v the opto led current should cut off at about 1.7-1.9v, so it is not a lot of extra discharge. i don't plan on letting my packs sit for months anyway, but i know it is a valid concern for some.

for higher voltage sensors i think using a current limit resistor is probably the best solution. this resistor can be calculated based on the sensor output voltage of 0.5v and the led forward drop of 1.4v and the current transfer ratio of the opto (500% for the one i suggested).

if it will take 5 ma to pull down the ebrake signal, that would be about 1 ma of led current. for a 2.7v trigger point that means the resistor needs to drop 0.8v @ 1 ma so it would be about 800 ohms, or the nearest standard value.

with that resistor in place the maximum led current at low voltage would be a milliamp, and i think that is probably still less than the self discharge of most cells. without the resistor, if the TC54 is internally current limited, it would still drop from 7 ma at the trigger voltage to almost nothing at 1.8v or so.

i think that if the bms lets the cells drop from 2.7v to 1.8v twice as fast as they would do without it, and then cuts out, that it is not necessary to have a way to disconnect it. i don't have much experience to base that on; if anyone else does i will be glad to hear it.
 
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