Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[rienesl]

Thanks for the answer, but unfortunately it doesn't work for me. If I set the minimum mode, the torque is limited, the motorcycle cannot turn the wheel in place.

This sounds to me, that the right field of low gear is set to 0 or 1. Please provide a picture of page2

If I limit the revs with the speed limiter function, good torque is maintained - https://youtu.be/yApsksY7Yeo
Can you tell me how to activate the speed limit function using the programming button?

I will try to help you, but please publish your settings (screenshots of all pages, most important page 2) first

Great, thanks a lot, I think you can post the link here, it will be useful to other contributors. Have you used a controller with or without a CAN interface?

I used this one without CAN. But the display is not connected to CAN anyway:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001644192917.html
CAUTION! I requested the VOTOL setup (XYT signal), but I got something completely different. In my case, the black/red cable was not like in the description the XYT signal cable, but was connected for the low beam. I had to solder the purple wire from "Speed" to HL. But then it was working fine. Reading other reviews, other people had the same issues, so open up that thing before you connect it to your bike

 

[rienesl]

1. Turn the throttle grip while depressing the brake. Hold it that way and turn the key to the on position. Then use the button to select any gear on the display. You can release the brake and the throttle.

This is the so called "jail brake combination" that is designed to limit vehicles in speed, so they comply to the Chinese laws. Have seen this behavior on countless controllers

I have no idea why the display is showing more than normal speed.
The control cannot correct this error. There is a problem with the display.

This is again a Chinese specialty. If you have an adjust inside of the display, but regardless in which direction you turn it, it doesn't change the shown speed, you got a version that is intended for the Chinese market only (not for export). There is nothing you can do except for either changing the display or change the polepairs in the settings

 

[Irling]

This sounds to me, that the right field of low gear is set to 0 or 1. Please provide a picture of page2

Thanks a lot for the link to the display, I will try to buy it.I am now far from the bike, but I have memorized the settings and can show them. On the contrary, low medium and high are really worth a value of 0, I thought it does not affect the torque in any way? I previously read that these values affect jitter and motor timing? How are engine rpm limited in Sport mode? Now, I can adjust the maximum RPM by the HDC lowrst speed

 

[rienesl]

According to the screenshots it is no surprise that this is not working. I don't write the full story here again (for details and to understand the values of the gears/modes., please read my post on page 54 - it is the third from top), but in short: you advised the controller to use 0% if it's capable current. Change the RIGHT field of low gear/mode to the percentage you want to drive your motor in relation to the capabilities of your controller. Can't find it in your posts right now what controller you have, but assuming its an EM-100 (without S!), and you want to use 60A, then the value would be 60

Edit:
Page1:
Not sure, because I drive on liIon, but your undervoltage values seem to be very, very low. I would be afraid to kill my batteries with that and add 10V to each value. But again: I might be wrong, because I have no experience with lead acid

Page3:
HAL shift angle 50°? shouldn't it be 60°?
EBS: 50% and reverse 0% - are you sure? Hardcore electric brake and no reverse?

Edit2:
I would strongly recommend to check the current of the controller. Set it to 10%, full accelerate (on the road!) and compare the value on page "Display" with the one shown on your multimeter (usually they go up to 20A). If you alter the calibration, you need to enter calibration mode to save the settings, or they are lost on next power cycle of the bike

 

[j bjork]

Flux-weakening compensation 0 ? It is far from what I have on an ipm motor, but I have an older controller.

 

[Irling]

According to the screenshots it is no surprise that this is not working. I don't write the full story here again (for details and to understand the values of the gears/modes., please read my post on page 54 - it is the third from top), but in short: you advised the controller to use 0% if it's capable current. Change the RIGHT field of low gear/mode to the percentage you want to drive your motor in relation to the capabilities of your controller. Can't find it in your posts right now what controller you have, but assuming its an EM-100 (without S!), and you want to use 60A, then the value would be 60

Edit: EBS: 50% and reverse 0% - are you sure? Hardcore electric brake and no reverse?

strangely, I read earlier that these values ​​affect jitter and motor timing. I understand correctly that if I set the maximum value in the field - low, I will get the maximum current in all three modes? Ebs true value 30% , reverse not used.

Controller em100s, motor -surron bike, 50 degrees work better 60 degrees

 

[rienesl]

Right, old versions of the software (which do not work with the latest hardware generation of the controllers) had the right values of the gears/modes used for the other parameters you mentioned. This has changed and the new versions use them now for settings valid to all gears/modes

Edit:

If I understand correctly that if I set the maximum value in the field - low, I will get the maximum current in all three modes?

if you enter 100, it means 100% of what your controller is capable of in all 3 speeds. Personally I have set it to around 66%, because it simply saves energy and in the city I can follow the traffic nicely with the reduced power. But if I need the full monster to ignite, then I switch to sport (which has its separate settings in the top, left corner of page 2)

 

[Irling]

Right, old versions of the software (which do not work with the latest hardware generation of the controllers) had the right values of the gears/modes used for the other parameters you mentioned. This has changed and the new versions use them now for settings valid to all gears/modes

Edit:

If I understand correctly that if I set the maximum value in the field - low, I will get the maximum current in all three modes?

if you enter 100, it means 100% of what your controller is capable of in all 3 speeds. Personally I have set it to around 66%, because it simply saves energy and in the city I can follow the traffic nicely with the reduced power. But if I need the full monster to ignite, then I switch to sport (which has its separate settings in the top, left corner of page 2)

Today I tried to change the LOW value by 99% and measure the maximum current at 20% of the maximum rpm - it turned out to be 31 amperes. With a decrease in the value to 0, the current was about 41A. This means that in my case the setting does not work correctly Perhaps the em100s version the controller has different settings? But even 40 amps is a very good torque, maybe this will be enough, but I would like to find how to change it

 

[Paulflieg]

We are only making slow progress in understanding this controller ..... After I have been driving for a while, with setting "0" in the right field, Low! And yesterday with "50" and HDC = 7000, it seems when accelerating .... to brake (the 50 limits the current ..?) I think with "0", the busbar current is simply taken as max current!

 

[Gommi]

Does this controller have CE -certification, as in stamp or sticker somewhere? I think they check that on motor and the controller if you try to get a conversion registered... Aiming to convert an 1990 Yamaha DT125.

Thinking of going QS3000 / 4000 mid drive motor with the EM150 controller and 10 Nissan leaf battery modules. I know for a fact that kelly KLS7230S has the CE sticker.

 

[rienesl]

@Irling: currently I have very limited time (a container of new bikes is approaching), but I will sit down on your setting s maybe in the evening and try to analyze why your controller behavior is different. I have the settings on the EM-35S and EM-50S working properly and in both cases the current for the gears is 100% depending on this field. The assumption of Paulflieg (that at 0% the controller uses what is in the busbar) I don't agree with, because at 0% my wheel did not turn, although I had 30 (or 50) at this value. However, there seems to be an other dependency which I need to find.
please do me a favor and post your latest settings where the described thing happens (50%=31A, 0%=41A). I request this again, because maybe there were some other changes in between the last screenshot and the current settings and I simply don't want to hunt for the cause on settings which might (!) not show the problem at all.

@Gommi: Those stickers are available by big pack for a couple of cents. Guess what the Chinese do...

 

[Irling]

@Irling: currently I have very limited time (a container of new bikes is approaching), but I will sit down on your setting s maybe in the evening and try to analyze why your controller behavior is different. I have the settings on the EM-35S and EM-50S working properly and in both cases the current for the gears is 100% depending on this field. The assumption of Paulflieg (that at 0% the controller uses what is in the busbar) I don't agree with, because at 0% my wheel did not turn, although I had 30 (or 50) at this value. However, there seems to be an other dependency which I need to find.
please do me a favor and post your latest settings where the described thing happens (50%=31A, 0%=41A). I request this again, because maybe there were some other changes in between the last screenshot and the current settings and I simply don't want to hunt for the cause on settings which might (!) not show the problem at all.

@Gommi: Those stickers are available by big pack for a couple of cents. Guess what the Chinese do...

You are right, I did not notice that I did not have a check mark next to the HDC Enable menu, I tried ticking the box and set the setting to LOW to 99% at the same time, the maximum current increased to 45 amperes, but I did not try to reduce the value to 1 percent to check the dependence, I will do it tonight. If you uncheck the HDC enable, then the maximum current is obtained at 0% LOW settings

 

[rienesl]

Hi Irling. Thank you for the reply (and saving my time ). However, your EM-100S should deliver more than 45A (in fact @99%≈148A) so it seems that there is an other (currently unknown) dependency. It is unlikely, that the EM-100S behaves different, but never say never...
If you have time, try to experiment with the right value of mid gear/mode (remember to power cycle the bike after each change to make sure it gets applied. Not sure if it is necessary for this setting to get applied, but this can get determined after we know what it is doing). In my case, I was not able to determine any difference between different values when driving - which does not mean that it has no function at all, but on my motors it had simply no effect...

 

[Gommi]

@Gommi: Those stickers are available by big pack for a couple of cents. Guess what the Chinese do...

That's true. I might as well give it a go - with an added sticker!
- Worst case scenario is I have to get a certified controller and redo the inspection on that part.

 

[drischnie]

Does anyone know where i can buy this cable alone? Its for EM-100

 

[ZERONEST]

My friend recently bought a 138 70H motor and em150 controller but did not receive a usb tool. everything works fine when plugging in and pulls load no problem when riding on stock settings however I am having no luck connecting to configurator software.

I have an older 120 70h motor and em100s which connects fine using the usb tool in the picture which came with it at the time, but not sure if this is the correct one for my friends em150 ( I cannot tell which version controller his is as I guess it's newer version but has grey plastic cover and only says "em-150" no s or sp

I have tried the newest 2021 software but no luck, I had tried switching the orange and blue wires, have tried Rx and TX on the usb tool, tried can enabled and disabled but no luck.

I did notice my em100s controller has orange/blue/black pins for the usb connections but my friends em150 has orange/blue/black/pink.

If anyone has any suggestions on if this controller requires CAN enabled or which version it is would be super helpful or if my usb tool is the correct one?

Thanks

 

[eVroomer]

Hey guys, I have two EM-100s on two bikes, one of which has been running well up to 100A for over a year, and almost 7000kms, and no issues with it! The other one I've been using for a few months now, just over 1400kms, not sure of the top amps through it, claimed 100A, but feels like 80A tops... but a week ago it decided to call it quits! Opened it up today, one of the phases is bust, all mosfets there are shorted, other two phases seem OK! My breaker was able to cut power from battery before any obvious damage can occur, no mosfets were exploded, visibly no burnt traces! My question is... has anybody dealt with such a situation on this controller, and if yes, what mosfets to get to replace these, that would be of higher quality, not necessarily more powerful? Or, are there more powerful and higher quality options, in the same width, could be taller/deeper, to beef it up a bit? Also, what are the chances something else burnt, which wouldn't allow the controller to run even after these are replaced? Would appreciate any insight into this as I don't know much about mosfets!

 

[ZERONEST]

So after about 3 hours of trying every debugging program , swapping both orange and blue wires to from canL and canH to Rx and TX and then reversing them and also adding the ground and vcc wires I have finally connected to the debugging software, but now all of the parameters for this em150 I have never seen before, busbar current set to 49272?? I'm wanting to bump up the sport mode amps to around 150 but it reads 0 as do most of the parameters which I don't quite understand

 

[Paulflieg]

The "display" page shows that you are not online! You still have no data loaded into the software from the controller ... You can read all of these basics here. The last 55 pages are very interesting ...

 

[ZERONEST]

The "display" page shows that you are not online! You still have no data loaded into the software from the controller ... You can read all of these basics here. The last 55 pages are very interesting ...

So being an idiot I wrote the parameters and it said write successful, now the motor doesn't turn anymore but just clicks once and stops, I've tried all the software versions and they all seem to connect but is there a way of knowing which version controller I have so I can use the correct version software?

 

[PrashanBhatta]

My setup has a very low starting torque. It can't move without moving weird noise at the start. There is a setting for djusting initial torque but nothing changes on adjusting those values.

 

[chronosgarage]

My setup has a very low starting torque. It can't move without moving weird noise at the start. There is a setting for djusting initial torque but nothing changes on adjusting those values.

I have exactly the same problem. The bike will have a strange noise and stuttering acceleration at the start. But when it’s running, all is smooth.

Can anyone here have any suggestions or solutions?

Any help is appreciated...

 

[borko444]

Hello guys.
These are the original settings of my controller.
I have unchecked the speed limit.
I removed the double voltage check mark.
I will also change the percentages in the speed tree
But I'm worried about values like 5000 High Flux Weakening.

The only speed I have when turning on is average. I would like to make the average speed be 99% of both values.
Mid Flux-Weakening Walue I think to leave it at 1600 but to change it to 2500 maximum to see how the engine reacts.
My question is about 4 Pole pairs and what the permissible values of Mid Flux-Weakening Walue. 5000 I think it's too much.
thank you in advance

P.S My goal is just to remove the speed limit.

 

[runer74]

Good afternoon! Tell me how to connect the button on the brake handle to the controller, these are two gray low brake wires, right? I have a micro switch on the brake handle And another important question. Reverse stroke is actuated by + or - on the wire in the reverse connector?

 

[ZERONEST]

Finally got my buddy's em150 controller to connect properly using an ftdi 232r adapter through Rx and tx pins.

motor is spinning again now but still cautious as I've read further back that some of the parameter values have changed in the debugging software, does anyone know if these values look correct for the qs 138 70h 3000w motor? I've dropped the busbar to 50A for testing

I'm using the 2021 software and believe this controller to be the newest version but it may not be and unsure how to check (it's grey top, only says "em-150" no SP anywhere, says 72490 and 120degrees but only run at 60 in settings)