Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[kiggyo]

Maybe he has a hub motor?

It's an wheel hub motor

Oh sorry, in this case maybe the settings are good. I didn't know that there is a hub motor with qs3000 name.
I think the other settings should good, just try to start the system with low amps, and with the wheels in the air and check how is it working.
If good, you can check with load also.

Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

 

[deida789]

Maybe he has a hub motor?

It's an wheel hub motor

Oh sorry, in this case maybe the settings are good. I didn't know that there is a hub motor with qs3000 name.
I think the other settings should good, just try to start the system with low amps, and with the wheels in the air and check how is it working.
If good, you can check with load also.

Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

No problem , plus in the end its a 2000w ( i got tricked) so i will change setting flux for 2000 and see, my main problem now is that i dont know the pole and the hall shift angle ( i look for hours on aliexpress to see motors spec but each time its different pole

 

[kiggyo]

Maybe he has a hub motor?

It's an wheel hub motor

Oh sorry, in this case maybe the settings are good. I didn't know that there is a hub motor with qs3000 name.
I think the other settings should good, just try to start the system with low amps, and with the wheels in the air and check how is it working.
If good, you can check with load also.

Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

No problem , plus in the end its a 2000w ( i got tricked) so i will change setting flux for 2000 and see, my main problem now is that i dont know the pole and the hall shift angle ( i look for hours on aliexpress to see motors spec but each time its different pole

Try to ask carrie at qsmotor, they can send the details. I had a quick answer from them.

Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

 

[deida789]

It's an wheel hub motor

Oh sorry, in this case maybe the settings are good. I didn't know that there is a hub motor with qs3000 name.
I think the other settings should good, just try to start the system with low amps, and with the wheels in the air and check how is it working.
If good, you can check with load also.

Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

No problem , plus in the end its a 2000w ( i got tricked) so i will change setting flux for 2000 and see, my main problem now is that i dont know the pole and the hall shift angle ( i look for hours on aliexpress to see motors spec but each time its different pole

Try to ask carrie at qsmotor, they can send the details. I had a quick answer from them.

Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

Thank you ! i sent her an email and she reply me fast as you said

 

[Paulflieg]

And the solution is ........?

 

[deida789]

And the solution is ........?

if you ask about me lol it's 24 Pairs and hall shift angle 60

 

[deida789]

Edit of my previous message :

I managed to fix many of the setting,

now i'm stuck to calibrate the voltage and i dont know what value to put on "Current cal" and flux cal" if i press the "switch" twice and adjust the voltage and "save parameter" it save but when i turn off and on it didn't save it

i read the topic it seems i have the latest software and i dont know how to get the previous like some guys have or to get to save on latest.

 

[Paulflieg]

Should it be a QS motor 205 2000W !? Then 16 pole pairs and hall angles are 120 ', probably more correct! ??

Important: with every change, save! .... switch off! ..... switch on! .... check!

 

[deida789]

Should it be a QS motor 205 2000W !? Then 16 pole pairs and hall angles are 120 ', probably more correct! ??

Important: with every change, save! .... switch off! ..... switch on! .... check!

Aaaaah i didn't turn it off after save i just tried , could it damage the controller ? , well they told me its 24 pole and -60 hall angles.

i edited my other message as i fixed some setting ,

now i'm stuck to calibrate these 2 value Current cal" and flux cal" i have no idea what to put.

 

[rienesl]

You don't need to power off and on when changing the angles and switching the colors of the wires by the checkboxes. Did this countless times, when determining the correct settings. However for the polepairs I am not sure. Usually you can't damage anything, if you are carefully turning the throttle until ANYTHING happens (for testing) or even better use the interface of the software for remote operation, where you can increase the throttle by 0.01V steps.

 

[deida789]

You don't need to power off and on when changing the angles and switching the colors of the wires by the checkboxes. Did this countless times, when determining the correct settings. However for the polepairs I am not sure. Usually you can't damage anything, if you are carefully turning the throttle until ANYTHING happens (for testing) or even better use the interface of the software for remote operation, where you can increase the throttle by 0.01V steps.

thank you i spend days on trying to adjust/playing with, yesterday i tried without load at gear 3 reach 980rpm , on road i reach 80khm ( i think its a little too high for a 2000w ?) anyway as for now it seems to work fine for me .

The only big problem is that my bms show me insane discharge current and i know its not the truth ( 180-210a when accelerating) i have no idea how to calibrate the current value on calibration mode ( i mean what number to put, now its set to 75).

Qs helped me to adjust some value, but im still stuck for current calibration.

i post my setting hope it will help some other guys [emoji106]

Battery 72v 150a, em 100s , Qs 2000.

 

[Shalom_hadad]

hi
after 1.5 hpurs or more to check tha information on this topic. I want to ask..
someone (not include VOTOL) know what is 'flux' exactly? and how to know the best values to set?

I am trying learn to set this controllers, but this settings not regular..
have some things to learn more like the kast page' wgy have so much port swttings and how to know the correct port, the hbs, low beake, and more..
but I am think .. maybe the flux settings neet to be set first to prevent unwanted changes on next values

if someone have any guide / site / video / any information about this. its maybe can help.
thanks

 

[Kikaku]

Hello people.
I'm new here and I apologize for my English.

I have got myself a QS motor 1500w(mid drive) and Votol controller em100.
I want to parameter for Votol EM100 .
I want RPM max 3500 rpm.
Thank you.

 

[XSRe]

Hi @scoder,

Did you manage to find the fault of the 'overcurrent'? Was it the controller or motor?

Any help or pointers from people on how to test the motor and controller in this situation to be able to diagnose the fault.

Previously it has been mentioned that a MOSFET may have shorted, resulting in a short between phase wires, if I am correct. I'm completely clear on what that means.

https://www.instagram.com/xsr.electric/

Got a Votol em-150 & a QS 138 motor.
Struggling to get a bit more torque I modified the ramp values to similar settings as SilentEnduro.

Now the motor will not freely spin even with everything disconnected and I get an error code on the Votol "Overcurrent"

I have restored my base settings to the controller but motor still will not turn.

 

[XSRe]

@kibe019 Did you have any luck fixing this or finding the root cause?

I suspect it maybe a blown MOSFET that's shorting a pair or more of the phase wires. I'll take mine apart and investigate as I'm now having the same problem, after a week of the controller working fine.

Hello guys i need help, does anyone here experience the overcurrent fault on EM-100? Is there anyway to fix this or should i change a new one. Thanks

 

[XSRe]

Hi,

My EM150 has blown 8 MOSFETs running at 55A for 1 week then 75A for one day.

My motor was locked/difficult to turn. I check the resistance between the phase connections and the U and V phase have dead shorted. I opened up the controller and found a dead short between 8 MOSFETS on the drain to source legs.

I'm considering replacing these. Do you have any advice on checking other components such as the BJTs and resistors you mentioned.(how do I identify them and what can I replace them with).

Hoping this can help others.

Thanks

The setting were:
bA - 60A
pA - 8000
FW - 1500/1500 mid and high
FW sport mode - 2500/2500
Controller temp was 25-26C. Also couldn`t find anywhere any kind of temp sensor around the Fets.
Nothing big and it was unloaded.The controller is back to the living after i replaced 10 Mosfets,5 BTJs transistors and few gate resistors. I am lucky that the MC is not dead. At the moment the controller is working normally with the buzz :lol: . I think the back EMF killed it because before I turn it off i think the motor was buzzing and at the moment i turned it off it died. Also the buzz stays for like 1sec after the motor stops rotating which is strange for me, but I am used working with Hub motors. Also the votol software is one of a kind. Go figure what does what lol.If i lower the FW in the sport mode the rpms get lower even in mid/high(hinge) mode.

 

[XSRe]

Out of interest, these where my settings before I blew the controller MOSFETS with QS138 V3 reduction geared motor.

 

[BareKuda]

Should it be a QS motor 205 2000W !? Then 16 pole pairs and hall angles are 120 ', probably more correct! ??

Important: with every change, save! .... switch off! ..... switch on! .... check!

According to the QS website the 3000W 205 has 16 pole pairs but the 1000W and 2000W have 23 pole pairs.

If he has the motorcycle spoke motor (no freewheeling clutch), it’s simple to find pole pairs, but if its the bicycle spoke motor with internal clutch its not as simple.

 

[BareKuda]

Thanks for your suggestions. I had major problem with the hall shift angle on page 3. Now the motor is working fine and smooth.

But I still don't understand how the ports are mapped in page 'port setting'. I figured out that the PA0 is the pin 5 of hall connector. as shown in figure. could you provide me a proper port mapping to those pins in the connector.

I’m also surprised nobody mapped that out yet but maybe it will cause a lot of people to mess with settings they shouldn’t, since these are all microcontroller pins and if the internal programing doesn’t match its going to cause problems.

I want the map just so i can see the factory wiring harness matches up with the port assignments. We can see pin 1 is for high brake and pin 9 is for low brake, and you can only use one at a time, so some may wish to remap pin 9 for another function.

My electric scooter is basic so i just need throttle, 3-speed swtich high and low, high brake, perhaps YXT (single line) speed signal. But i can see someone doing an electric motorcycle wanting sidestand lockout, and extra buttons for other supported features, like fault clearing etc.

 

[deida789]

hi guys, i have a simple question let's say even maybe stupid, what is the purpose of the area of "start voltage" and "the end of voltage" i have a deadband at 1/4 when i twist the throttle before it really start, do you guys know what value should i put if i want to start immediatly ?

Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[j bjork]

start voltage is the voltage where you want the motor to start.
"End of the" is where you want full throttle to happen.

Measure the voltage from your throttle and determine at what voltage you want it to start.

 

[larsb]

.. do you guys know what value should i put if i want to start immediatly ?

Hello, hall sensor throttles normally start around 0.8-0.85V so part of the issue will be your 1.01V start setting if you've got a hall, it is too high.

To complicate things: a lot of the hall throttles do not change voltage signal until 1/4 of the throttle so this deadband could be built into the hardware. I have a guide in my threads how to remove the deadband on wuxing hall throttles, search my threads for "guide". This fix will work on many of the hall throttles since they are similar in hardware function.

For potentiometer throttles the voltage can start to increase almost immediately so in theory you can set the deadband better.

 

[deida789]

start voltage is the voltage where you want the motor to start.
"End of the" is where you want full throttle to happen.

Measure the voltage from your throttle and determine at what voltage you want it to start.

thank you !


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[deida789]

.. do you guys know what value should i put if i want to start immediatly ?

Hello, hall sensor throttles normally start around 0.8-0.85V so part of the issue will be your 1.01V start setting if you've got a hall, it is too high.

To complicate things: a lot of the hall throttles do not change voltage signal until 1/4 of the throttle so this deadband could be built into the hardware. I have a guide in my threads how to remove the deadband on wuxing hall throttles, search my threads for "guide". This fix will work on many of the hall throttles since they are similar in hardware function.

For potentiometer throttles the voltage can start to increase almost immediately so in theory you can set the deadband better.

Thank you Iarsb, that's pretty weird why it is made like that :/ , i will check on your thread because i didn't saw it , thank for your reply [emoji106]


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[larsb]

thank you Iarsb, that's pretty weird why it is made like that

It's a safety feature so it's actually needed. It's only that the design has too much deadband..
Link to the guide: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=77735#p1156644