Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
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Hello Guys,
Is there compatibility issues with Votol controllers and Hub QS motors?
In a Gadiro e125, it uses Votol EM50 + Yuma Motor 3000w, its performance is very good like 100cc motorcycle.
But I have a Hub QS motor (3000w, 17", torque winding, 45h, iron core, 30 pole pairs). The performance is VERY POOR, like a 30cc motorcycle, super sluggish acceleration and almost NO TORQUE. Of course I did every settings, correct hall shift (also tried 180, 120, 90, 60, 0 -60, -90, -120, -180), pole pairs, field weakening settings, change hall/phass wires, field weakening calibration etc.
Also tested with 2 different Votol em50 controllers (one votol em50s and another votol 7280s transparent cover).
I fear there is compatibility issues and have the same issue with votol em150. The motor works well on other brand controllers.
Is there compatibility issues with Votol controllers and Hub QS motors?
In a Gadiro e125, it uses Votol EM50 + Yuma Motor 3000w, its performance is very good like 100cc motorcycle.
But I have a Hub QS motor (3000w, 17", torque winding, 45h, iron core, 30 pole pairs). The performance is VERY POOR, like a 30cc motorcycle, super sluggish acceleration and almost NO TORQUE. Of course I did every settings, correct hall shift (also tried 180, 120, 90, 60, 0 -60, -90, -120, -180), pole pairs, field weakening settings, change hall/phass wires, field weakening calibration etc.
Also tested with 2 different Votol em50 controllers (one votol em50s and another votol 7280s transparent cover).
I fear there is compatibility issues and have the same issue with votol em150. The motor works well on other brand controllers.
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Oclipper said:
For Votol controller, you may try swap phase wire to your Moto phase wire (about 6 combination). My status is solved by this way.
Remember you are finding smooth torque, then you switch wheel direction with controller BG-swap or YB-swap option.
Oclipper said:
I just recently convert a KTM Duke 200 to electric,first I use my existing QS hub 3000w v3 with 24 poles, EM100s.
can you double check the version of your hub QS 3000w? and also if you have tried the backup Hall sensor?
my bike is now running very well with YM300W 17" the reason why I swap to Yumar because of the price and my older qs is onlt 13".
I have experiecned with my QS when I was trying to swithc the cable in the Software by putting the checkmark on both, then I drove like 20-30cc like you mentioned.
fishblood said:
Thanks for repply, I already tried changing phase wires /hall wires. Motor runs smooth but no torque. Even a 1500w citycoco has more acceleration than me.
I suspect there are some compatibility issues with QS motors, if its high pole pair numbers or winded for torque. I've seen another guys with such problem but they all went for another controller
sam110 said:
This motor came with the bike, the brand doesnt give details. But its iron core, 45h, 30 pole pairs. Yes I did test with the spare hall connector and the result was the same. Ive tested with both Lande Votol 7280s and Votol em50s. Next week ill test the em150, If no torque remains, then I go for fardrive or lingbo
BareKuda
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Try these settings:Oclipper said:
Also if you have a BMS that reports current or a clamp meter, verify the current shown in display page agrees with the other current reference. Some people try to fool the controller into giving more torque by messing up the calibration and it gave really bad performance and the motor ran hot. The factory calibration should be good so if you changed it then you should change it back.
Also you can try to set flux weakening at 0 and set HDC rpm just below the flux weakening rpm. With the wheel off the ground as you accelerate it should be it’s quietest before flux weakening tries to kick in, then above that it will begin to sound frantic.
You can try to adjust the 600 up or down in increments of 50 between 200-1200. Currently you have it set for 2000. This us kI (Integral constant) of the current loop and if set too low it will sound like you ran over a rumble strip and if set too high the motor sounds frantic. As low as you can go without rumble under full acceleration is best.
When you give full throttle does your battery current go up to 60a? Or the Votol display current shows 60a during max acceleration?
Once you get it working best without flux weakening you can increase HDC rpm in stages and add some flux weakening in stages to get best performance.
BareKuda said:
Thanks for repply. I have DKD display and it shows the current, it goes up to 60A. I've already set flux weakening to 0. Also I tried KI 100-2000. But no matter what I do, it looks like 20-30cc bike.
My votol em150 is stucked at customs. If it works, then the sellers are right about em50 may not match with 3000w motor
BareKuda
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Oclipper said:
Well an EM-50 definitely is not the right controller for a legitimate 3kw continuous motor. The EM-150 should be enough to give a burst of torque with 150a and then cruise at 50-75a.
When you say it acts like a 30cc motor its hard to guage that because i have no idea what the weight if you and your vehicle is. I have a scooter (my profile picture) with 500w motor and an EM-30 controller that sends up to 2000 watts to the motor. Max speed 45 kph. Accelerate is about what a 30cc motor would do. But your bike and you is probably heavier and a 17” wheel will eat up some torque in exchange for speed.
I couldn’t find any link showing the other bike you mentioned having a EM-50. Thats not going to feel like a 150cc with only 4000w peak. Maybe that motor is wound for torque and it gives the impression of more power but lacks top speed.
For reference my 500w motor has a 700 rpm base speed, with 10” wheel and 15” O.D. Tire. Your 17” wheel probably has a 23” diameter tire. If that bike goes 90 kph instead of 45 kph, it definitely needs more than an EM-50.
BareKuda said:
The bike I stated is this:
https://br.e-scooter.co/urbet-gadiro-e-125/
Its sold in Brazil with the name "Shineray SHE-S" or "Watts e125". Is basically a clone of super soco TSx but with votol em50 + yumma 3000w 17" hub motor.
With yumma motor its performance is very good like 100cc~ bike. Strong enough for urban use, 0-60kph in 8s.
But with QS 3000w 17" hub motor, the same controller is like 20~30cc, about 30s for 0-60kph. I've tried everything, even the same .ini file fron Gadiro e125 (of course setting the right pole pairs and hall offset). I've seen some guys with same problem but they go for another controllers bevause of such sluggish performance of votol
Yes I know that em50 is underwhelming for 3000w hub motor. But max battery I can handle is 60A and Gadiro e125 is good enought with this setup. But strangely some cases, with qs motor, the performance is like 20-30cc with almost no torque.
Are the winding numbers (kV, RPM/volt) the same for the two motors? If not, they will perform differently with the same system otherwise.
BareKuda
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Oclipper said:
You can ask QSMOTOR for the .ini file for that motor. But a 20ah battery is way under whats needed for that motor that can run all day at 60a and need 120a to accelerate.
How fast how fast will your bike go and what do the amps drop to once you get up to speed? It might be a simple case that your motor is designed for speed and can handle the amps and the other bike tops out at a lower speed but gets there quick with 60 amp.
Hello guys,
Im having problem with a brand new Votol EM50. When throttle is connected, the voltage from pink wire (+5v) drops to around 0,35v~ then throttle error icon is shown in display.
Ive tried another controller wiring harness and another throttle, the problem remains. I have another Votol em50 and this doesnt happen, tested with the same settings and also with every port settings set to "1:empty_func"
Im having problem with a brand new Votol EM50. When throttle is connected, the voltage from pink wire (+5v) drops to around 0,35v~ then throttle error icon is shown in display.
Ive tried another controller wiring harness and another throttle, the problem remains. I have another Votol em50 and this doesnt happen, tested with the same settings and also with every port settings set to "1:empty_func"
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BareKuda
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Oclipper said:
Ok, i think I understand what you are doing. You have the throttle plugged into the correct connector but you are measuring the 5v st the debugging connector to check for sag. And you tried the other harness and throttle from a working EM-50 and it still sags.
The port settings shouldn’t matter because thise aren’t a 5v supply but rather a 5v signal.
You could test the hall sensor 5v supply pin and see if it also sags when the throttle is plugged in. If it does the controller probably needs to be send back to where you bought it. But if it doesn’t you can feed the throttle 5v from the hall sensor 5v and test again for sag since it means that's a separate 5v power supply internally.
Hi, i have a UMI ym2000 electric car with votol em-100 controller and a 2kw motor and does not run with more than 17km/h. Any ideea of that? Has happened to any other from here?
I don't know what model is the motor.
I don't know what model is the motor.
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BareKuda
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eugen6000 said:
I think that has a 60v lead acid battery so the first thing to check is the voltage stays above 65v under load. It will show 73v when charging, then 69v float charge, then 66v after unplugging the charger. But it the batteries are old and neglected they will drop very low as soon as you put load on them.
That car should go 45 km/h but the Votol has a soft low voltage setting that will limit max speed and current about 10% for each volt the battery decreases below the setting.
It would help if you get the debugging cable and show the settings.
If the battery is good we need to see the controller settings.