Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[Sattva Ram]

What's the max amp for the 200 sp/2? Does anyone run it at 350 line current?

 

[joesb]

h

Ami em 50, actualice con el archivo incorrecto y quedó muerta la controladora, gracias

¿Resolvió su problema? Si no remítase al Taller La Fábrica en la Habana, Cuba.

 

[ersan]

Hello everyone,

I need your help one more time.

I have em-150/2 controller and I was using a 72V 1500 watt middrive unitemotor. I could perform a self learning process with that motor and controller could detect the exact hall angle of this motor and it was working fine.

Then I replaced the single ratio rear axle with a two ratio one and the new axle has a smaller but still 72V 1500watt motor on it. It has also 4 pairs as I count it while giving a few Volts to the 2 of the phase cables of the motors and the giving a full turn.

But I could not make a succesfull self learning process with the new motor. It spins always to the same direction, nothing happens when I restart the ignitiın and nothing changes on the hall angle page. Motor does not spin properly.

Can anyone help me to solve this problem.

Thanks.

The old motor vs the new motor photos:

 

[amberwolf]

Are all the halls operating correctly? (while connected to the controller, controller powered up, manually turning the motor shaft (by turning the wheels?), you should read around 0-0.8v whenever a hall is active, and around 4-5v when they are not (assuming the controller pullups are 5v when not connected to the motor).

 

[biggerpizza]

Just started to play with my new votol em100sp from last week.
Have some issue with the controller, couldn't figure it out .
1. Motor can run properly but won't stop when the throttle is wind back(I checked throttle voltage, it's correct - between 0.7 and 3.7V). Motor stops when throttle voltage is under low protection voltage.
2. Pin 1 (high level brake), Pin 5( move third gear) and Pin 12( move first gear) not working
3. As soon as Reverse is engaged, motor starts reversing slowly.

cheers

 

[amberwolf]

That usually indicates that the controller is setup to respond to a lower throttle voltage than the throttle actually outputs.

If the throttle signal wire on the controller is left unconnected, does it still behave this way?

If so, there's something wrong in the controller, either:
--a hardware issue with the throttle signal input path creating a voltage at the MCU pin for that signal above the minimum response voltage,
--a software bug where settings don't correspond to reality for throttle voltage limits,
--a setting turned on for something like a "freewheeling current" where some minimum phase current is always applied to the motor (this should normally not happen except when the motor is spinning, but if it's not well-designed software it might do it all the time).

If it does not have the problem without the throttle signal attached, it's probably too high a signal voltage on the input at throttle "off".

Some controllers have actual throttle voltage ranges that can be set, and some just have a throttle type choice (like pot vs hall), and some do not have any options. I don't know what your software allows you to set, so you'll have to check for this.

 

[biggerpizza]

That usually indicates that the controller is setup to respond to a lower throttle voltage than the throttle actually outputs.

If the throttle signal wire on the controller is left unconnected, does it still behave this way?
When signal wire is disconnected, controller is in low voltage protect. Motor stops immediately.
If so, there's something wrong in the controller, either:
--a hardware issue with the throttle signal input path creating a voltage at the MCU pin for that signal above the minimum response voltage,
--a software bug where settings don't correspond to reality for throttle voltage limits,
--a setting turned on for something like a "freewheeling current" where some minimum phase current is always applied to the motor (this should normally not happen except when the motor is spinning, but if it's not well-designed software it might do it all the time).

If it does not have the problem without the throttle signal attached, it's probably too high a signal voltage on the input at throttle "off".

Some controllers have actual throttle voltage ranges that can be set, and some just have a throttle type choice (like pot vs hall), and some do not have any options. I don't know what your software allows you to set, so you'll have to check for this.

Thanks a lot for your help.

That usually indicates that the controller is setup to respond to a lower throttle voltage than the throttle actually outputs.

If the throttle signal wire on the controller is left unconnected, does it still behave this way?

If so, there's something wrong in the controller, either:
--a hardware issue with the throttle signal input path creating a voltage at the MCU pin for that signal above the minimum response voltage,
--a software bug where settings don't correspond to reality for throttle voltage limits,
--a setting turned on for something like a "freewheeling current" where some minimum phase current is always applied to the motor (this should normally not happen except when the motor is spinning, but if it's not well-designed software it might do it all the time).

If it does not have the problem without the throttle signal attached, it's probably too high a signal voltage on the input at throttle "off".

Some controllers have actual throttle voltage ranges that can be set, and some just have a throttle type choice (like pot vs hall), and some do not have any options. I don't know what your software allows you to set, so you'll have to check for this.

Thanks a lot. Finally got it working.
It turns out there is wiring issue(between motor and em100sp). One phase wire has 5ohm resistance.
Now it works OK with my second set of wiring. And I only applied 5V on the high brake which needs 12V.
cheers

 

[bolsen]

So it turns out the phase wires were backwards, is this common? It's the second controller this has happened with...

Does the "Low voltage brake Switch" feed power back to the battery (regenerative braking), if not, what is it's purpose?

Also, my last controller had 3 speeds, does the "Sport mode" serve that purpose, if so how does that wire up, (is it just 2 speeds)?

My Original post:
Hi all, I just got my votol em100sp wired up but the motor "shakes" or "shudders" when I give it throttle. I had this happen with a cheap controller and found that the phase wires were marked backwards but these seem to be in the correct order (left to right = Battery-red, blue, green, yellow, Battery-black). I don't see the two learning wires some have mentioned. Any suggestions?

Also, is there regenerative braking/charging back to the battery available on this controller? TIA

 

[amberwolf]

So it turns out the phase wires were backwards, is this common? It's the second controller this has happened with...

What do you mean by "backwards"? There are three, so there isn't really a "direction" for them; each wire is bidirectional (current flows alternately one way then the other every cycle).

Also, wire color on controllers vs motors rarely matches, so if a controller doesn't have a "learn" or "autotune" function in it's software (or hardware with a pair of wires, switch, etc) you almost always have to find the right phase/hall wiring combination manually (there are a bunch of threads on doing that in various ways).

My Original post:

There is no other post by you on this forum (you joined today about 3 hours before this, your first post, so unless you're referring to a post on some other forum you didn't link to.... :/

There's also no other post in this forum that I can find containing the text you posted as "my original post".... :?

A link to wherever you were originally posting may be helpful if it has other info from you, or responses by other people.

(left to right = Battery-red, blue, green, yellow, Battery-black).

If you're referring to the hall sensor wires, you don't use battery voltage on those, as it will probably destroy them. They're usually only good for up to 20-30VDC power source, and almost always are powered only by 5VDC (or less) from a specific hall power output on the controller (that may have an internal diode to protect against assorted overvoltage scenarios from the motor, to not blow up the main 5v supply in the controller along with every other controller-5v-powered device on the bike/system).

If you're referring to some other connections, you'd have to specifically state that, and show us pictures, since phase wires between controller and motor don't have any power or ground to them; current only flows from one phase to another from phase FETs thru motor windings back to other phase FETs.


Regarding the other features/questions, it probably depends on what specific settings you chose in the Votol setup software when programming the controller for your specific system's properties.

 

[ersan]

Are all the halls operating correctly? (while connected to the controller, controller powered up, manually turning the motor shaft (by turning the wheels?), you should read around 0-0.8v whenever a hall is active, and around 4-5v when they are not (assuming the controller pullups are 5v when not connected to the motor).

Yes, all hall cables are correctly connected. I have cheched all the possible color combinations but only yhe same color match works well.

I also teardown the motor to see the pole pair numbers and hall sensor angle. Photos are attached. It seems 4 pole pairs and 120degree. But motor spins unreliable with these settins.

 

[marce002]

Hi ... i have a hawk scooter (SUNRA / FUTURA) 3Kw motor controller stock ...but want to buy em50 or em100??

I have stock controller, the motor is 3000W today im using it at 93v x 35A ===> 3200W for short seconds and i get 50kmh motor very cool , so far so good..
i need it to reach 75kmh...short time ...
Im planning to buy a VOTOL EM100 controller, but keep the stock motor (and its KVs) . Wonder what will be able to get with a votol em100 at 84v and more max maybe 50A at inches=12"
, will em50 be enough? need touching flux weakening? anyone can guide me to a similar scooter / moped setup with votol v3 software so I can program the controller to suit my needs> 70/80kmh speed for short times (emergency cases). also want to know if speedometer would work

thanks in advance

 

[Paulflieg]

Yes, all hall cables are correctly connected. I have cheched all the possible color combinations but only yhe same color match works well.

I also teardown the motor to see the pole pair numbers and hall sensor angle. Photos are attached. It seems 4 pole pairs and 120degree. But motor spins unreliable with these settins.

I think it's more like 60 degrees. Or do you mean the hall shift angle in the votol debug software?

 

[Tommyrs]

Hi, can anyone help me with Votol EM-150/2 controller? I'm trying to get it to work with the motor from SurRon. I have two batteries 60V and 72V and tried it for sure with both but still the same problem. I plugged in the controller wiring, turned it on, connected it to the PC and it reports error 00020000 and still signals "P" and "Brake". The LED on the controller flashes 4* long and 4* short.
My wiring and settings are in the attached pictures.
Just out of interest, the same setup works flawlessly on my SurRon with the other EM-150 controller...
Thanks a lot for any idea.

 

[amberwolf]

Just out of interest, the same setup works flawlessly on my SurRon with the other EM-150 controller...

Is the nonworking controller configured identically to the working one?

If not, that would be a starting point.

If they are not wired identically, that would be another starting point.

Note that if they are not actually identical versions of the controller, with different firmware, or you are using a different program/app/etc to control or set each one up, you may have different results because the settings may have different meanings for the same values, etc. That can be pretty frustrating, because pretty much none of the controller makers document changes to their software or hardware, and end-users just have to "figure it out" when it's changed.

 

[biggerpizza]

I still have two issues with the em100sp and LY60V10 3kw hub motor.
1. The motor is definitely 15 pairs and 60 degree hall angle(confirmed by manufacture).
But it doesn't run if I set pole pairs to 15 and with any combination of hall degree(-30,-60,-120,30,60,120).
It only runs smooth if i set em100sp to 5 or 10 pole pairs and hall degree 30 degree.
2. Motor got cuts off when rpm is around 4400 (no load) with 72v battery. Didn't reach current limit and throttle is only 60%.
I can't figure out.
Thanks
,

 

[killaji]

I see... let's do something. Sometimes votol controller s gets corrupt. In this case, the best is download the firmware, then send a well known good config... as base config. Then tune the values. Give some email and i will send you the firmware .bin and my base config...

Do have firmware for em-100? Could you send to killaji@gmail.com

 

[ivan4103]

hi im from the philippines can someone send me a firmware for the em150 72510

 

[Tomy B.]

I have EM-150SP and motor from electric scooter, got it working, was able to make it roll nicely from standstill by adjusting throttle voltages and hall shift angle, but the problem I have is that I can't limit current and RPM.

In the screenshots you can see that I tried on page 1 to set current to 1 A, but I still get over 150 A, it has so much power that it destroyed toothed belt.
Also I tried to set current in sport mode to 1 A, low speed to 1%, mid speed to 3 %, high speed to 9 % but no difference in max current or max RPM.

Any tips how to limit current or RPM and why I'm not able to do that?

Also if anyone knows if settings for my motor are good please let me know!
AFAIK it has 5 pairs of magnets, I have set hall shift angle to get smooth start from standstill, but don't know if it's surface mount or V-type motor.

 

[amberwolf]

You have phase current still set to 9960A; I don't know which one has precedence in the controller. Busbar is the battery current, phase is the motor current.

I also don't know what the actual numbers it allows in the fields are; it may just ignore any value you put in that is outside that range and instead use invisible defaults without telling you. I'd normally say to check the manual, but these things don't usually have that kind of info in them, and the software is often badly written so that it doesn't give the user feedback about this kind of thing.

Speed limiting is probably not enabled; the checkbox for that is blank.

There are probably posts in this thread discussing each of these things for other systems, I haven't read most of it since it was originally posted.

 

[Tomy B.]

TYVM for tips!

I did read manual and now on 42nd page of this tread, but manual is also badly written.
In one manual for "busbar current" is written that it is " regenerative (A) ".

Will try to play with settings in a few days when I get new toothed belt.

 

[phongnp2]

Hi..can anyone send me the config file for em100s 72400? My firmware have some error. Thanks guy

 

[nohlevel]

Thêm em150_viewonly apk
View attachment 329320

Thank you, it works, exactly what I needed, I wonder if you still develop this application?

 

[ersan]

Hello, I need the original last bin file of votol em150. please let me. moncel1987@hotmail.com Thanks a lot.

Merhaba, bin dosyasına ulaşabildiniz mi? Benim de ihtiyacım var. Teşekkürler

 

[Todd1572v]

Hi all,
I'm having problems with my Votol EM200/2sp and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. Everything works just fine and runs smoothly until I decrease the throttle requiring me to come to a complete stop before going again. Even with no load, if I reduce the throttle, the motor must come to a complete stop before running up again. I've tried lots of things with no success. My em150/2sp has been working great and I've never had a problem with it. Today I got it to throw an error code after holding the throttle 1/8 open for around 20 seconds. The led on the controller flashed 2 quick flashes followed by 2 slow flashes or vise versa. on the software, I got fault code 00200000. I've tried reaching out to the manufacturer both on Aliexpress and through their website with no success. Any help is greatly appreciated. I can post screenshots of my settings if needed.

Thanks, Todd

 

[MDG]

Would anyone be able to tell me how much battery current a em150 can continuously handle? I’ll be running a battery at 200A continuous and not sure if I can run a 150 or bump to a 200 or 260. Thx