johnrobholmes
10 MW
He hides them in the frame bags, seat bags, and water bottles I bet.
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ambroseliao
100 kW
I can see the water bottle battery and the front or rear geared hub motors. All are very nice and stealthy.
Ambrose
Ambrose
beast775
100 kW
wow ,i just kept going and going.thats awesome.different ride for different moods.they all look very bicycle like, nice and stealthy.good work. 
Nader
1 mW
hi people!
..i am happy that my e-bikes pleases you.
I always hide batteries (thay are mostly Konion, Lithium or LiPO cells) in water bottles or in the frame bag. Unfortunately fit only to 6Ah into a water bottle however for me is sufficient (live in Hamburg and there ist flat without upward, hills and mountains :wink: ).
For me it is very important, that an electrical bike behaves like a normal bicycle, therefore i uses always small and light hubmotors with freewheel like Cute, Tongxin oder Bafang and smal batteries. If i need more range, then I take 2 or more further bottles in the back bag.
and the controller mostly takes place in the seat bag.
..the chaindrived bike with Tongxin motor makes mostly fun.
wish a beautiful day
Nader
..i am happy that my e-bikes pleases you.
I always hide batteries (thay are mostly Konion, Lithium or LiPO cells) in water bottles or in the frame bag. Unfortunately fit only to 6Ah into a water bottle however for me is sufficient (live in Hamburg and there ist flat without upward, hills and mountains :wink: ).
For me it is very important, that an electrical bike behaves like a normal bicycle, therefore i uses always small and light hubmotors with freewheel like Cute, Tongxin oder Bafang and smal batteries. If i need more range, then I take 2 or more further bottles in the back bag.
and the controller mostly takes place in the seat bag.
..the chaindrived bike with Tongxin motor makes mostly fun.
wish a beautiful day
Nader
Pablo_1985
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2009
- Messages
- 175
real pretty, you have some serious classic bikes! this marin it´s incredible!
dogman dan
1 PW
Very nice with the bottle batteries. Just too short range for us in the US for the most part. But ideal if you do pedal those gearmotors some without the power. I'm just too old and fat for much of that nowdays. 105F summer days make pedaling hard too.
Very very very nice bikes.
Very very very nice bikes.
Nader
1 mW
because of many questions over bottle batteries, here you can see how I built the batteries:
http://www.nalizadeh.com/ebike/pics/pics/koga/koga.html
Nader
http://www.nalizadeh.com/ebike/pics/pics/koga/koga.html
Nader
grindz145
1 MW
What are some of the specs!? What kind of performance do you get? I love the designs! perfectly clean!
vanilla ice
1 MW
Great job.
Nader
1 mW
grindz145 said:
there are two kinds of bottle batteries. 36V/2,6Ah with 1L water bottle and 36V or 48V 5.6 ah into a 1,5L bottle.
The batteries are created out konions/A123 or lithium cells, I have still which out lipos.
Clearly are a 2,6 or 5,6Ah batterie too little, however with a light and sporty bicycle can educate one enormously much range. :wink:
All my Bikes weigh under 20 kg, even dual drive with two engines (with 36V 5,6Ah batterie: with 2 Bafangs 22 kg and with 2 Cuts 18,8 kg).
The range is dependent of driving style. I reach for example with 2,6Ah 20 km.
More own contribution produces naturally more range. :wink:
you can see here more pictures about this project.
http://www.nalizadeh.com/ebike/pics/pics/superbow/superbow.html
cheers..
Nader
Nader Is that controller for that bike in the bike bag? I wanted to build a clean e-bike by running wiring through the frame but it blows me away how clean yours are.
I am trying to get a 48v 5.6ah pack to make a pack similar to yours. I emailed phillip and am waiting for a response.
I am trying to get a 48v 5.6ah pack to make a pack similar to yours. I emailed phillip and am waiting for a response.
grindz145
1 MW
Gorgeous! I imagine they make a superior Hybrid configuration. Still very ridable!
Nader
1 mW
I really like your bikes! Very stealthy, which is usually my main goal.
I'm currently putting a couple kits together using aluminum water bottles as battery holders myself. I've been having a bit of a dilemma about how to hold the two pieces of the bottle together after I cut them. I noticed yours look to have a piece of aluminum flashing around the inside. Do you also put something around the outside seam when you put the two pieces together?
I keep hoping to find a suitable rubber or plastic ring but it would be next to impossible to find the exact size. Maybe some kind of rubber strap with a quick release buckle.
I'm currently putting a couple kits together using aluminum water bottles as battery holders myself. I've been having a bit of a dilemma about how to hold the two pieces of the bottle together after I cut them. I noticed yours look to have a piece of aluminum flashing around the inside. Do you also put something around the outside seam when you put the two pieces together?
I keep hoping to find a suitable rubber or plastic ring but it would be next to impossible to find the exact size. Maybe some kind of rubber strap with a quick release buckle.
Nader
1 mW
petedegan said:
the chain drives has better performance, specially on the hills. But it is suitable for more sporty cyclist, because you must many more step
in order to reach the cadence, which needs the engine.
I did get the freewheel cranks from http://www.sickbikeparts.com
so long..
Nader
A
Anonymous
Guest
plasmaboy junior says this is a waste of time
A
Anonymous
Guest
I used to have 4 12v lead acids that I used to charge with separate individual chargers. then, when all my other chargers gave up, I used to charge them in parallel using a single 12v 12a charger (it took nearly 6 hours) but it did the trick.
I could line out each A123 battery terminal and connect a group of positives and negatives separately and charge them in parallel using a standard 3.6v b6 charger? if I want to top them up to their peak capacity, then that should work shouldn't it?
I'm thinking of lining all the 64 cells with thin cable, and individually charge all 64 batteries.
do you think this is a good idea?
Attached are some pictures of what I have done so far.
1. firstly, I balance charged the batteries and grouped them as close to one another's state of charge as I could.
2. The next step is to make braided copper connectors between the cells and solder onto the nickel tabs (there must be acid flux dropped on the nickel first and rubbed with sandpaper to remove oxidization) then large ammounts of normal solder will stick to the nickel tabs.
I used 8awg copper (single core) and braided it with 4 other single cores to create a very thick braid (thicker than normal braid and normally withstands the currents I put through the bike through trial and error
question:
With limited charging tools available, I currently have a 48v 12a SLA charger and a (fake) imax b6 charging unit used to charge the life batteries to their peak.
Currently, I have no way of setting up an LVC other than little digital voltmeters that can tell me the state of charge of the batteries.
I plan on doing a 3mile round trip, there is a 13% incline hill, it normally cannot be pedalled up even in lowest gear, that is why I built the bicycle.
I calculate I have 540Watt-Hours.
The motor I use consumes 60-80watt hours on the straight.
how far will 55.5v 9.2ah take me before low voltage?
I do not presently have an LVC available, so will be aiming to get 50% of the full battery's capacity so as not to lose the batteries,
what do you recommend I do to keep the batteries at their 50%?
I could line out each A123 battery terminal and connect a group of positives and negatives separately and charge them in parallel using a standard 3.6v b6 charger? if I want to top them up to their peak capacity, then that should work shouldn't it?
I'm thinking of lining all the 64 cells with thin cable, and individually charge all 64 batteries.
do you think this is a good idea?
Attached are some pictures of what I have done so far.
1. firstly, I balance charged the batteries and grouped them as close to one another's state of charge as I could.
2. The next step is to make braided copper connectors between the cells and solder onto the nickel tabs (there must be acid flux dropped on the nickel first and rubbed with sandpaper to remove oxidization) then large ammounts of normal solder will stick to the nickel tabs.
I used 8awg copper (single core) and braided it with 4 other single cores to create a very thick braid (thicker than normal braid and normally withstands the currents I put through the bike through trial and error
question:
With limited charging tools available, I currently have a 48v 12a SLA charger and a (fake) imax b6 charging unit used to charge the life batteries to their peak.
Currently, I have no way of setting up an LVC other than little digital voltmeters that can tell me the state of charge of the batteries.
I plan on doing a 3mile round trip, there is a 13% incline hill, it normally cannot be pedalled up even in lowest gear, that is why I built the bicycle.
I calculate I have 540Watt-Hours.
The motor I use consumes 60-80watt hours on the straight.
how far will 55.5v 9.2ah take me before low voltage?
I do not presently have an LVC available, so will be aiming to get 50% of the full battery's capacity so as not to lose the batteries,
what do you recommend I do to keep the batteries at their 50%?
A
Anonymous
Guest
**TIP**
CHEAP CHARGER SOLUTION 10HR charge...
I found that a cheap 23GBP r/c IMAX B6 charger located here, it's a b6, but I plan on building an overnight charger 10hr charge time and pulling 80 leads out of the 64 cables.... 5 leads coming out of each 4-pack, one pos+ and 4 negative.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170406077120&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I finally glued up my pack today, I can carry it with one hand now which is a success, I guess this pack is exceptionally strong...... too bad I can't afford a 5 parallel setup just now, but soon enough, in the future, I'll get some LIPO's paralleled with this setup to give me the amps I need (300). Currently the bike is setup on 240amp peak 120amp continuous so it's looking good... I can't imagine what a 5305 setup would do with that kind of power....
Anyhow, below is a pic of the glued pack, I purchased some CA glue from hobbyking.com and bought some CA hardener
CHEAP CHARGER SOLUTION 10HR charge...
I found that a cheap 23GBP r/c IMAX B6 charger located here, it's a b6, but I plan on building an overnight charger 10hr charge time and pulling 80 leads out of the 64 cables.... 5 leads coming out of each 4-pack, one pos+ and 4 negative.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170406077120&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I finally glued up my pack today, I can carry it with one hand now which is a success, I guess this pack is exceptionally strong...... too bad I can't afford a 5 parallel setup just now, but soon enough, in the future, I'll get some LIPO's paralleled with this setup to give me the amps I need (300). Currently the bike is setup on 240amp peak 120amp continuous so it's looking good... I can't imagine what a 5305 setup would do with that kind of power....
Anyhow, below is a pic of the glued pack, I purchased some CA glue from hobbyking.com and bought some CA hardener
A
Anonymous
Guest
plasmaboy junior says this is a waste of time
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