if you put the remote shunt from jeremies thread into the battery negative lead, then it will save the lowest voltage and max current readings. that will allow you to diagnose the cause when the BMS cuts out. if you use the shunt in the P- lead from the BMS then when the BMS shuts off, either for LVC or for overcurrent protection, then the wattmeter loses its ground and loses it's memory because the P- lead has opened.
if you install the shunt in the battery negative lead, between the BMS and the B- terminal of the pack, then the wattmeter will retain power after the BMS shuts off. this is where it helps to use a switch in the positive lead from the B+ terminal.
also, jeremy did not talk about it, but you can use his remote shunt setup to measure the current flowing back into the battery when charging.
since the turnigy will only measure when the current goes through the shunt in one direction, if you reverse the leads from the remote shunt that go up to the meter, then by reversing the leads, the shunt will then record the flow of current into the pack, instead of out as normal.
when charged, re-reverse the leads to the normal orientation and use it as the discharge meter. this is what justin is able to do without reversing the leads on the cycle analyst. gotta have that switch in the positive lead to the meter though or it will drain the pack because it bypasses the BMS.
so that would be only three small wires, 26G is ok, from the pack up to the meter. put the switch next to the meter. if you remove the battery from the bike regularly, make a three terminal plug for the battery to meter leads to plug in.
if the three terminals are in a row, a symmetrical plug, then put the red B+ lead in the center, and you can reverse at that plug. one way the leads are connected normal, reverse the plug and the shunt appears reversed to the meter for charging.
so it has to be a symmetric plug not polarized.
