When to charge the acid battery properly?

I have no recommendations about specific chargers... My only point was if you want to keep a 6 battery lead acid series healthy when used a lot, balancing them is important.
 
Those are all for charging your whole 72v pack. You need a 12v charger if you're going to balance them... But you already sound like you decided that's too much trouble.
 
The problem is that I will be able to do it once a month with a balanced charge, but that will hardly be enough.
What about the rest of the time?
And how will I charge the batteries after I have already said they are connected together. In my opinion, it would be better if I took them out and charged them one by one
 
Separating them doesn't matter...I know your brain is telling it's better, but it really doesn't matter. When you hook up a 12v charger to just one of them, it just sees that battery, even though it's still connected up in series with the others. And after you do all 6, which shouldn't take long as they should be close to full anyway, they will all settle to the same voltage, unless one is self discharging at an insanely rate, which you would want to find out anyway.
And once a month is better than nothing, but once a week would be even better.
 
It will be worth the effort. Just make sure they're well insulated from pinching and rubbing. Maybe even do fuses nice and close to the battery ends....
 
It's not a run long run at low amps, so not a lot of voltage drop... 2mm is probably fine. Oversizing a little is ok, not a lot of added mass with the short distance, but the bigger you go, the less the wire acts like its own fuse and melts down in a short.
 
Voltron said:
...
And don't be confused by the the difference between equalizing the 6 internal cells that make up one 12v battery, and balancing the 6 whole batteries in your 72v string. The first is done automatically by a good charger, but not the second.
Click to expand...

Hi Voltron,

Can you support your underlined statement with references or evidence? In industry many lead acid battery packs are assembled for the application from individual cells. Common, as in forklifts, are 12 cell (24V), 18 cell (36V), 24 cell and 36 cell (72V) batteries. Telecom also uses high cell count batteries. Those use good chargers which do in fact equalize individual cells, nothing to do with groups of six.

@borko444. Using multiple 12V chargers on the series string is ok and has some advantages. It is called modular charging. Marine trolling motor battery banks often use this. If you attempt it, make sure the chargers are isolated. Some cheap ones may not be.

Regards,

major
 
Hey Major... I'm just saying once your lead acid battery of whatever voltage is sealed into its case at the factory, the end user can't get in there and equalize the individual sections. But as soon as you use two or more sealed units in series, you're back to needing to balance them. Even the highest quality ones drift apart. The ones we use in boat drives come from the factory from matched sets off the assembly line with sequential serial numbers to minimize manufacturing differences... And they still need periodic balancing, just like any series pack does. One exception is LiFePo lithium. They are tolerant of mild overcharging, but then all settle to the same voltage, so they're moderately self balancing, but even they need help sometimes.
 
ok last one is a charger and i will charge them individually or slip into a 120A portal this devices can balance them
 
Today I removed all the batteries.
Each one is numbered and measured.
After exhausting it to a minimum of about 50 km driving.
1 barrette - 12.04V
2 batteries - 12.07V
3 batteries - 12.07V
4 battery - 12.07V
5 battery - 12.07V
6 battery - 12.07V
There is a difference of 3 millivolts in the first battery.
I received the charging station today.
I started by charging the first battery, which was less voltage, around 1:00 pm. So far, 22:30 is not over yet and I have 5 more batteries. In my opinion, charging individually on batteries is not practical. Even if I do it once a month, it will still take one week and until the last battery is charged, the first one will need recharging, and I cannot use the motor during this time.
I think those 80 euros I paid are completely meaningless.
Maybe after a year, after depreciation, the batteries will need charging and sulfation.
The other one I want to ask. The other one I want to ask: The charging station has the ability to charge the battery at 2.5A or 5A.
Can I switch to a 5 amp charge or for a 12 volt 20AmH battery is not good and could be damaged by a 5A charge?
 

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Can I turn on six batteries in parallel and drop them into the charging station?
There will be a total of 120A
 
For sure use the 5 amp setting. You can group them up into 72v and use your regular bulk charger until they're full, and the use the 12v charger to even them out.
 
borko444 said:
Maybe after a year, after depreciation, the batteries will need charging and sulfation.
Click to expand...

If you're referencing desulfation, that only works with flooded batteries, not the sealed ones you're using.
 
This is the battery.
It is written on it "itinitial current: less than 3A"
Will it not damage it with 5A?

gogo said:
If you're referencing desulfation, that only works with flooded batteries, not the sealed ones you're using.
Click to expand...
-Are you saying that my battery does not need desulfation? And this is only required with liquid acid batteries?

Because I mean -
any sulphate deposits on the lead plates and
breaks down any deposits which may exist. Such
crystallised
sulphate deposits are produced in
particular in lead batteries which are stored for a
lengthy period of time or are only rarely used or
have low currents applied (e.g. during the winter).
 

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Look what I found.
Translated from German to English with Google. I am sorry about that..
I also provide a link for you to translate yourself.
I'll be glad if you share an opinion.
https://www.powerboxer.de/elektrik/527-akku-sulfatierung

Battery: sulphated
Written by gerd_
Posted: January 17, 2014
Sulphation is a chemical process in lead-acid batteries.

It is completely normal and part of the necessary processes in "normal" car batteries.

Sulphation (PbSO4) is always carried out during the normal discharge process because it is simply the way the lead-acid battery works. During charging, it is usually electrochemically disassembled and may not cause any damage.
Therefore, fashion word sulfation, which sellers like to use as a nightmare and as a synonym for early "battery death" by chargers, is completely wrong because there is no electricity without sulfation.


During the self-discharge of an unused battery, the same process takes place, but only through a very slow process large granular crystals can be formed, which can be recognized as a white precipitate on the plates.
It is true that the formation of relatively large lead sulfate crystals is accompanied by a decrease in capacity. However, to be honest, you can no longer get used to them electrically, as they run electricity very poorly. Therefore, it cannot be eliminated either by special loading or disposal or by chemical additives.
On the one hand, these large lead sulfate crystals reduce the active surface of the electrodes, resulting in poorer reactivity so that the battery can no longer absorb charge, and on the other, they can fall off the electrodes due to shocks and cause form a layer of mud at the bottom of the cell. If it gets so high that it touches both electrodes, it triggers a short circuit (closing the plate) and destroys the battery cell.
Historic batteries could be removed to remove mud with newer lead batteries, but this is usually no longer possible.
In VRLA (gel / AGM) batteries, the fixed / bonded electrolyte prevents crystals from falling, thereby increasing the shaking resistance.

Manufacturers of some electronically controlled chargers or auxiliary circuits claim that desulfate lead batteries, repeatedly producing shorter, stronger currents that disrupt sulfate crystals and thus restore battery capacity. The function is doubtful, however, since "desulfation" by (partially strong) current pulses with different frequencies and waveforms for the regeneration of sulfated lead-acid batteries has not yet been independently demonstrated.


In order to crack large sulfate crystals, perhaps (!), The battery must be subjected to much higher currents, at least for a longer period of time than conventional chargers can supply. But even this has not been reliably proven that large crystals then crack (and, incidentally, as collateral damage, so to speak with high current, the electrode network is destroyed).

Up to 30 volts should be used for twelve volt batteries. For about 30 to 40 hours, this voltage should be present at a minimum charge current, then the power released for a while. It is absolutely necessary to monitor the IN temperature of the battery. You can then continue charging normally.
This does not work as current limitation is impossible without reducing the voltage!

It is assumed that the high impedance battery (= "sulphate") is recognized by the fact that it is very fast when charging (ie no longer accepts power), voltage, but immediately breaks even when low currents are absorbed.

This is not true. This shows a battery whose actual capacity has fallen far below its rated capacity, but not the cause!
On the other hand, if the starter battery is still in good condition, it should be able to supply sufficient power without causing the voltage to drop too long for a few seconds to about three times its rated capacity / 1 hour.

Some manufacturers of electronic chargers claim to recognize sulfation on their own and control their charging program accordingly. As a precaution, then comes the restriction that such a damaged battery cannot always be retained.


Conclusion:
The commonly used, fully charged battery does not sulfate as a flash but only when it is "forever" and slowly discharges. Therefore, the age-old rule for storing maximum charged batteries is still applicable.


Manufacturers claim something but limit that claim as a precautionary measure and then at the time such a claim under "advertising" can be classified.


With a service life of about 6-8 weeks, the impact is minimal (therefore load every 6 weeks for several hours). Therefore, you prefer to invest "2 handles" instead of buying an expensive charger with "despite all" and "unfortunately" the battery still hurts.


Using the correct charger (13.7V continuous voltage without meaningless / damaging switching functions) supports the charge without significant current flow. Therefore, such a protected battery is not sulphated. So, why the "desulfated function" (without temperature monitoring), if this does not always work?

There are corresponding power supplies (for the same money as a "supercharger"), such as CONRAD or REICHELT, and you can use them as a "drive" for a Styrofoam cutter. Who is obliged to buy ads an extra meter for 5 EUR, and then you can use it another way. A "full" is a battery when there is no electricity left.

If the vehicle is running on electricity even when the ignition is off (can be determined with the meter 5 EUR!) Then it makes sense to switch off at least the negative terminal of the battery. The reasons are, for example, a clock or a forgotten USB "adapter".

Batteries do not like icy garages or bubbling living rooms for hibernation. Usually the first choice is basements. It doesn't matter if they are attached to a charger!
Click to expand...
 
borko444 said:
This is the battery.
It is written on it "itinitial current: less than 3A"
Will it not damage it with 5A?

gogo said:
If you're referencing desulfation, that only works with flooded batteries, not the sealed ones you're using.
Click to expand...
-Are you saying that my battery does not need desulfation? And this is only required with liquid acid batteries?

Because I mean -
any sulphate deposits on the lead plates and
breaks down any deposits which may exist. Such
crystallised
sulphate deposits are produced in
particular in lead batteries which are stored for a
lengthy period of time or are only rarely used or
have low currents applied (e.g. during the winter).
Click to expand...
You should always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for charging current.

I defer to the info linked to by Major earlier in this thread, reaffirming his advice to charge whenever possible.
 
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