BTW, based on what's discussed earlier in this thread, I did a partial mod on my window AC for the bedroom, "sardine-can"ing the top open far enough to about halfway expose the squirrelcage fan's outer circumference to get greater airflow out of the unit.
I couldn't go all the way open yet, because the bar that helps secure it into the window presently goes thru the back half of that area. To fix it I'll have to remove the unit from the window, then take the bar off, drill new holes in the top panel further back, reattach the bar, then peel back the top the rest of the way to allow full airflow via the squirrelcage fan.
But it already makes a significant difference, especially to the freezing up of the indoor heat exchanger when the humidity goes way up (mostly at night). Now it only freezes about 1/3-1/2 way up before the cycle ends and it shuts down to let the ice melt and run off outside thru the tray.
Before that, it would freeze up the entire indoor exchanger, an no airflow at all would occur, and it would never shut off the compressor at all until the ice got thick enough to reach the in-airflow-path temperature sensor (quarter inch or so past the grille). Just wasting power at that point, and not cooling the room air.
I couldn't go all the way open yet, because the bar that helps secure it into the window presently goes thru the back half of that area. To fix it I'll have to remove the unit from the window, then take the bar off, drill new holes in the top panel further back, reattach the bar, then peel back the top the rest of the way to allow full airflow via the squirrelcage fan.
But it already makes a significant difference, especially to the freezing up of the indoor heat exchanger when the humidity goes way up (mostly at night). Now it only freezes about 1/3-1/2 way up before the cycle ends and it shuts down to let the ice melt and run off outside thru the tray.
Before that, it would freeze up the entire indoor exchanger, an no airflow at all would occur, and it would never shut off the compressor at all until the ice got thick enough to reach the in-airflow-path temperature sensor (quarter inch or so past the grille). Just wasting power at that point, and not cooling the room air.