Wireless Wii Nunchuck *TESTERS WANTED

[RomeoEG]

Okay. Popping it off was easy enough.. now what? I'm guessing, take the heat shrink off the wiiceiver and pop the Atmel off the wiiceiver and put it on the Uno.. and upload the newest code? or….?

 

[torqueboards]

Actually that 5 pin row there is all you need to plug in. You don't need to remove the heatshrink.

You will need jumper wires.

Documentation - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OMyipDXwUIevf9hT1LSHdhx5EEQ6rP9OY-iQ6avuLok/edit

1) remove the chip from the Uno -- literally pry it out of the socket. Save it!
2) connect jumpers from Uno -> Wiiceiver, using the 6-pin header on the Wiiceiver (5 holes through the heat shrink, #1 is near the edge of the board, #6 toward the center; position #5 is unused)
5V -> #1
RESET -> #2
RX 0 -> #3
TX 1 -> #4
GROUND -> #6
3) plug in the Uno’s USB to your computer
4) Upload as if this were an Uno. The Uno’s TX/RX LEDs should light up and remain solid for several seconds while the code is uploading; after upload the wiiceiver will enter the startup sequence and the red/green LEDs will get all blinky. You can access debugging info in the serial monitor.

 

[okp]

which arduino model are you all using ?

http://boutique.semageek.com/fr/2-arduino-uno-dip-r3-7640152110092.html

 

[torqueboards]

Yup The uno R3 is what i'm using.

 

[RomeoEG]

nailed it. 8)

 

[torqueboards]

Nice job!

 

[mccloed]

I have just received/started using the Nunchuck and when I full throttle it will cut out after about 3 seconds. Is this normal? All other functionality seems to work.

 

[killisch]

Try shaking the nunchuck and see if it stays on longer. I had troubles with the inactivity timer being too low so it would cut out on me when it didn't detect any movement from gyro in the nunchuck. If that's the case there is some info further back in the thread on changing it.

 

[torqueboards]

Try shaking the nunchuck and see if it stays on longer. I had troubles with the inactivity timer being too low so it would cut out on me when it didn't detect any movement from gyro in the nunchuck. If that's the case there is some info further back in the thread on changing it.

As killisch said - try to shake/move the nunchuck. IF you are "still" for too long the controller may drop and/or if you seem to loose connection bring the throttle to neutral and it should come back again.

Place your wiiceiver wires away from motor wires too as they cause interference.

 

[mccloed]

That seems to work. Thanks.

 

[beto_pty]

Got a Favorite 6s ESC from torque... had gotten tired of the Hk150 throwing me off at full speed every time it decided to cog... tried the wiiceiver again.. mind you I think i had the first or second one... updated the software...
Awesome.. The original software had a couple littel details that might irk one a bit... sometimes would decide not to bind...
This new software rocks.. the accelaration is spot on awesome... just at the edge of what is (at least to me) comfortable without being boring...
The cruise control rocks.. and it binds every time... actually sat there and switched it on and off 10 times and every single time it locked on tight...
Never lost signal till my batts ran out... Interestingly those two AAA lasted about as much as the 4 on my quanum...

decided to change all my HK150 to favorites and all my quanums to Wiiceivers...

Will start working on an enclosure for the combo this week.

so just a thank you note Austin and Torque..

 

[eldan]

HELL YEA!
Finally got it working!! and if I'm this excited, I wonder you how you'll might feel for creating this amazing system! It took me a little getting used to, basically had to learn arduino code,wiring etc. but it was all fun and worth it!

Honestly, Thank you
austindavid
torqueboards
& whoever else was involved 8) 8)

I havent set this up on my board yet, waiting for 2nd ESC. I just had a quick question, which pin is assigned for the second ESC signal cable? (also would I need the ground for this one too?)
I noticed it in the code, and it only says Pin 1 & pin 2, I just learned all of the arduino I know recently, based on that, I have no idea where the second pin is. I guessed based on tutorials online that controlling the 1st ESC was on pin ~10. I did however notice that it has an "if...else" function on the ESC & ESC2. Since I don't have the 2nd ESC yet, I cant test for sure, hopefully someone here has tried it successfully.

Thanks again!

Paying it forward ?

so... anything we can do to make sure the batteries are good? don't mind modding the Nunchuck a bit with a led /buzzer?
and anyone modified the receiver's antenna?

Try these, old tech, re-invented, might be a reasonable way of checking battery voltage on the go.
Duracell Quantum
https://www.google.com/search?es_sm...soH4BQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&q=duracell+AAA+quantum

 

[austindavid]

HELL YEA!
Finally got it working!! and if I'm this excited, I wonder you how you'll might feel for creating this amazing system! It took me a little getting used to, basically had to learn arduino code,wiring etc. but it was all fun and worth it!

Awesome! I'm glad it works for you, and glad you were able to learn something along the way.

The second ESC pin is Arduino pin 10 -- 9 and 10 are the bottom two on the right side. It just magically works in the latest code, and is set to use exactly the same signal as the other ESC. If you for some reason want to run a different signal -- maybe bias brakes on the rear motor, but have them both accelerate the same -- it wouldn't be too hard to put in some logic. The function in ElectronicSpeedController.h called "setLevel" is the only place the signals are interpreted, you'd do it in there.

Have fun!

 

[eldan]

HELL YEA!
Finally got it working!! and if I'm this excited, I wonder you how you'll might feel for creating this amazing system! It took me a little getting used to, basically had to learn arduino code,wiring etc. but it was all fun and worth it!

Awesome! I'm glad it works for you, and glad you were able to learn something along the way.

The second ESC pin is Arduino pin 10 -- 9 and 10 are the bottom two on the right side. It just magically works in the latest code, and is set to use exactly the same signal as the other ESC. If you for some reason want to run a different signal -- maybe bias brakes on the rear motor, but have them both accelerate the same -- it wouldn't be too hard to put in some logic. The function in ElectronicSpeedController.h called "setLevel" is the only place the signals are interpreted, you'd do it in there.

Have fun!

Thanks for the quick response!,
I am currently using PWM ~10 for my 1st ESC ( because no other pin worked not sure if thats OK or not)
seeing how I don't have the second ESC, so I can't really test it.
so hopefully when I plug both in, (ESC1 = 9 and ESC2= 10) it should run both of them?
I want them to run in sync, so I don't think i need to touch the code.
worst case, I think a Servo Y connector should suffice. but if I can do it all in 1 shot, why not?..

just an idea;
(maybe if it's possible to have 2 Motors, set up on different gear ratios,
something like: UP/DOWN on the wiimote = 1st motor speeds up/down; when it's maxed out,
then LEFT/RIGHT on the wiimote will then be used as throttle for second motor, which would be geared for higher speeds.
*just a thought*

 

[austindavid]

You can plug the ESC into either 9 or 10 and it should work on both. That's a way to test that you have two active ports.

re: gearing -- interesting idea, but you'll find that you're just dragging one motor or the other. Definitely let us know if you try it, but most people (myself included) just spec the motor / gearing / battery for best speed, and if you need more low-end power you get a bigger motor. So I have a lower-geared pair of motors on my AT board at 8S, it tops out at probably under 30mph, and has more than enough power at the lower end.

 

[torqueboards]

Yeah, as what Austin said. You can't use two different gearing setups. You are better off going with the most torque that you need and adding voltage for higher top end speed.

You'll drag the slower motor since it won't be able to spin as fast. You could remove the belt but you wouldn't want to do that just to change your speed.

 

[Svenska]

Hey guys,

I got a MiniWiiceiver here. I do have massive problems with it cutting out. As it stands, it is not usable.
I can get maybe 50m of riding and then it looses connection and if I'm not quick enough to get the remote real close (>1m) to the receiver the ESC will lock up due to signal loss. Than it can only be resolved by reconnecting the battery.
This happens even when the receiver is sitting on top of the board. If I walk back from the board I get a disconnect at about 2m distance.

Has anybody got similar problems and found a way to resolve them?

Thanks!

 

[torqueboards]

Svenska - You need to keep the Wiiceiver away from motor wires as they can cause interference. Also make sure you use a ferrite ring with the ESC signal wire.

Try different placement of the wiiceiver as this seems to be the most common issue.

 

[Svenska]

torqueboards the wiiciever is sitting on top of the board above the front truck, motor is on rear truck. There is no possibility for further separation between receiver and motor/ESC.
A ferrite ring is in there too.
I just bench tested and run the wiiciever on a bench top power supply. No motors, ESC's or anything else that could interfere. I do loose signal at about 2m separation.

 

[torqueboards]

Could it be environmental interference?

 

[Svenska]

Environmental interference is what I thought at one stage as well. I usually build things at my local hackspace.
I took it home, that's about 15km as the crow fly's. Same thing there.

I'm out of ideas, that is why I ask here.

 

[torqueboards]

From what I've found the main culprit seems to be the Nyko Kama controller itself, I think. There's not much other options that we have for Wii Wireless Nunchucks.

But yeah depending on the area it works great for others and others it drops quite frequently.

I'd suggest just trying different locations to see which one responds the best.

 

[austindavid]

have you tried unpacking the antenna/board in the Nyko receiver? I've had a lot of success removing the plastic clamshell and reorienting the board 90 degrees.

 

[Svenska]

Anybody got pictures of the Nyko Kama receiver board unpacked, front and back?
If yes, please post them, it would help me a bunch!

@ austindavid

that did the trick, thank you.

 

[austindavid]

Anybody got pictures of the Nyko Kama receiver board unpacked, front and back?

I posted a shot on page 2 in this thread. It's shown inside a 3/4" heat shrink, but you can see the outline. I just removed the clamshell and put a sleeve over the board and wires up to the nunchuck connector. The wires are tiny and pretty fragile, you want them covered.