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World Domination, I just got my self a 3d Printer!!!
- Thread starter nechaus
- Start date
nechaus
100 kW
thats as far as i got for that grim reaper print, left the printer for 30 mins last night and it jammed, skipped layers..
The printer stopped extruding due to it getting jammed where the bolt is, not the hot end, im not sure if it was because the room it was printing in was 36 degrees and the PLA roll expaned by the smallest which caused more friction in the clamp.. not sure, or the motor getting hot and putting out less torque, it needs a fan really
I also noticed the extuder bolt is on an angle, causing some PLA to start and stop.. not all just some... so im going to fix that now.
Should make it clamp better and hopefully extrude at lower temps for a more shiny print, time will tell..
The printer stopped extruding due to it getting jammed where the bolt is, not the hot end, im not sure if it was because the room it was printing in was 36 degrees and the PLA roll expaned by the smallest which caused more friction in the clamp.. not sure, or the motor getting hot and putting out less torque, it needs a fan really
I also noticed the extuder bolt is on an angle, causing some PLA to start and stop.. not all just some... so im going to fix that now.
Should make it clamp better and hopefully extrude at lower temps for a more shiny print, time will tell..
nechaus
100 kW
http://player.vimeo.com/video/25401444
I thought this was awesome,,, 3d printer in desert using sand
I thought this was awesome,,, 3d printer in desert using sand
MattyCiii
100 kW
I sympathize with a print failing near the end. That crap happens with my MakerBot all the time. I have a love/hate relationship with my MakerBot Thing-O-Matic. Right now I hate it, since homey won't print.
The T-O-M (as it's called) houses the power supply and all the boards on a plank at the bottom of the printer. So, it's functional yet structural. My girlfriend was tossing one of those brushed aluminum picture frames - it was a perfect fit for the Makerbot, so I took the bottom off it and will mount it to the rear (so all the connections/boards are exposed, easy to troubleshoot). The picture frame is now at the foot of the 'bot, screwed into the rest of the structure, to replace the rigidity of the lost piece.
Hopefully now it will be easier to service. Over the next week I'll be troubleshooting the defective piece (this time it's the heated build platform). Once I get it going I have a choice: Sell it (and then probably buy a MakerBot Replicator 2... Mmmmmmmm, steel structure!) or print as much shiite as I can until it breaks again, then throw it down the stairs and be done with it.
:|
The T-O-M (as it's called) houses the power supply and all the boards on a plank at the bottom of the printer. So, it's functional yet structural. My girlfriend was tossing one of those brushed aluminum picture frames - it was a perfect fit for the Makerbot, so I took the bottom off it and will mount it to the rear (so all the connections/boards are exposed, easy to troubleshoot). The picture frame is now at the foot of the 'bot, screwed into the rest of the structure, to replace the rigidity of the lost piece.
Hopefully now it will be easier to service. Over the next week I'll be troubleshooting the defective piece (this time it's the heated build platform). Once I get it going I have a choice: Sell it (and then probably buy a MakerBot Replicator 2... Mmmmmmmm, steel structure!) or print as much shiite as I can until it breaks again, then throw it down the stairs and be done with it.
:|
nechaus
100 kW
Thats right! you have a thing o matic,
The Replicator 2 looks really amazing, its looking closer to a resin printer res, But the price is crazy, you could buy 3 reprappers for that price.
but you could get a resin printer for that price ... soon they will be in the $3000 mark
Im still not sure what path im going to take, I do love my printer, its awesome for brackets, But still want a second printer, Not sure if i should get another 3d stuffmaker printer, or get a replicator or wait for a cheap resin printer to come onto the market that will do extreme res prints
Do you have any cool things to print on file that you can send ?
How many prints have you done so far?
I think id be getting close to the 200- 300 mark lots of failed prints, and also just chucked some bits that i printed.
I enjoy printing on blue painters tape more than a cold bed with kepton, it really sticks well, sometimes to well and have to use acetone to get the tape off.
Have you tried printing with PLA or just ABS?
What software do you use?
What speed does your machine work at?
The Replicator 2 looks really amazing, its looking closer to a resin printer res, But the price is crazy, you could buy 3 reprappers for that price.
but you could get a resin printer for that price ... soon they will be in the $3000 mark
Im still not sure what path im going to take, I do love my printer, its awesome for brackets, But still want a second printer, Not sure if i should get another 3d stuffmaker printer, or get a replicator or wait for a cheap resin printer to come onto the market that will do extreme res prints
Do you have any cool things to print on file that you can send ?
How many prints have you done so far?
I think id be getting close to the 200- 300 mark lots of failed prints, and also just chucked some bits that i printed.
I enjoy printing on blue painters tape more than a cold bed with kepton, it really sticks well, sometimes to well and have to use acetone to get the tape off.
Have you tried printing with PLA or just ABS?
What software do you use?
What speed does your machine work at?
MattyCiii
100 kW
nechaus said:
Yeah the reality is, I don't print a lot so I'm better off waiting, limping along with what I have and out-sourcing critical prints until something truly better comes along.
I'd love to, but:nechaus said:
My laptop was stolen back in June - lots of custom work is just plain gone. But most of that was very custom - to me, and to my specific bike - so the use to you/anyone else would be marginal.
What the robber(s) could not get was my experience. My first designs were rudimentary, and took lots of time to build. Lately I can design stuff pretty quickly. Hard-fought experience with CAD programs. Lately I use the free CAD program from emachineshop.com. It's pretty powerful, exports to STL, and - if I like my print & want to make a copy in metal - I can use that program to get an on line quote. It tells me how much (in terms of days and dollars) would it take to have the piece made of (delrin, aluminum, steel) and be shipped right to my door. Very powerful.
When I bought the bot like 30 months go the only option was to build from a kit. Being careful is no substitute for being experienced. I've had lots of failures, and long periods of down time between pockets of up time. I've probably done only about 200 builds.nechaus said:
Gonna try that especially since my latest problem is loss of power to the heated build platform. No heat == no stick to kapton.nechaus said:
Just ABS, but I have 5kg of PLA just sitting there.nechaus said:
ReplicatorG, something like #29, the newer versions leave the T-O-M behind IIRCnechaus said:
Slow. That's not sarcasm. I'm in RI a few days and the T-O-M is in Massachusetts, so I can't get you numbers just now. But what are numbers anyway. The damn thing is slow.nechaus said:
nechaus
100 kW
my printer seems to be set by mm per second,
so like the 3d stuff maker suppot team advised me they used 100mm per second, which makes my printer sound like a pulse electronic gun lol.. or something like that
but only will print @ this speed if i use the easy melting PLA,
Most of the time i print from 15mm per second, for smaller jobs, Like atm im printing x4 quad copter mounts that just clamp to tubing, I have the speed set on 20mm per second..
boxes and things that do not require any real detail, i have the speed on close to 50-60 mm per second, but it all depends on my flow of PLA...
Some pla works great at fast print speeds, not making a real difference if i set it to slow or fast as they both come out pretty much the same..
Some PLA is just weird and will only extrude at high temps and slower speeds, im not sure if my extruder can put 8kg of pressure on my hot end, hopefully the new parts will fix this..
more pressure on my hot end will make such a difference in using different materials and eventually nylon
pretty much all my prints i have the layer heigh set to .2mm , when i first got the printer i was using .4mm which was crap. ,2mm will make most of my prints pretty air tight.
.1mm takes for ever to print stuff but it feels like a really smooth surface when i run my finger over it, .2mm i can just notice it. .3 &.4 sometimes wont work after the first layer or 2 as the gap increases to much from the print and the hot end causing a pile of mess.
I really find using fans helps all my prints,
Yeah try blue painters tape i reckon its great, 1000% easier to change, takes me a min to lay blue painters tape where the kepton takes for ever to get it perfect, no bubbles ect..
so like the 3d stuff maker suppot team advised me they used 100mm per second, which makes my printer sound like a pulse electronic gun lol.. or something like that
but only will print @ this speed if i use the easy melting PLA,
Most of the time i print from 15mm per second, for smaller jobs, Like atm im printing x4 quad copter mounts that just clamp to tubing, I have the speed set on 20mm per second..
boxes and things that do not require any real detail, i have the speed on close to 50-60 mm per second, but it all depends on my flow of PLA...
Some pla works great at fast print speeds, not making a real difference if i set it to slow or fast as they both come out pretty much the same..
Some PLA is just weird and will only extrude at high temps and slower speeds, im not sure if my extruder can put 8kg of pressure on my hot end, hopefully the new parts will fix this..
more pressure on my hot end will make such a difference in using different materials and eventually nylon
pretty much all my prints i have the layer heigh set to .2mm , when i first got the printer i was using .4mm which was crap. ,2mm will make most of my prints pretty air tight.
.1mm takes for ever to print stuff but it feels like a really smooth surface when i run my finger over it, .2mm i can just notice it. .3 &.4 sometimes wont work after the first layer or 2 as the gap increases to much from the print and the hot end causing a pile of mess.
I really find using fans helps all my prints,
Yeah try blue painters tape i reckon its great, 1000% easier to change, takes me a min to lay blue painters tape where the kepton takes for ever to get it perfect, no bubbles ect..
MattyCiii
100 kW
This is what a MakerBot Thong-O-Matic looks like when you rip its guts out and just leave them on the outside...
nechaus
100 kW
looks alot stronger than my plastic frame !!!
So are you going to put some aluminium on the frame to strengthen it ?
Have you tired updating the firmware for it?
I was shocked at the difference it has made on mine with new software..
So are you going to put some aluminium on the frame to strengthen it ?
Have you tired updating the firmware for it?
I was shocked at the difference it has made on mine with new software..
MattyCiii
100 kW
Maybe, maybe not. These original MakerBots were all laser cut plywood - and by plywood, think pine/balsa not oak/walnut or whatever.nechaus said:
Done already. I'll have to take decent pictures, but think of its original design as a cube - all six sides having a panel. All panels bolted together, making a rigid box. Now notice it's taller (Z-axis) than it is wide in the X and Y directions. So, to stiffen it, there's a platform (an extra stiffening member, a shelf) inside, right behind where the red letters say "MakerBot" in the picture. Rigidity is important for good prints.nechaus said:
Well, I took the bottom panel off. All the circuit cards, and the ATX power supply, are all in those bottom 4-5 inches of the 'bot. A clean, enclosed, compact design, as long as wires don't fail from flex or other things don't go wrong. I took that bottom off - that's what you see to the left of the machine. But that means there's a whole panel missing, and the machine is much less stiff. So, I bolted that aluminum picture frame to the inside very bottom of the device. It's now stiffer than it ever was before.
I've done a couple of FW updated - PITA. I've stopped upgrading FW for now because the last time I did it, it made things worse not better and I had to revert back. I'm going to be very careful with future changes. MakerBot's latest machine is 2 generations newer, that's where their focus is...nechaus said:
My latest print crapped out at about 8mm height (out of 30). I've adjusted the build parameters, and am going to try one more time tonight.
nechaus
100 kW
MattyCiii said:
Why did it crap out @ 8 mm height ?
So far since i got my new extruder from the 3dstuffmaker guys, they have improved the design, my printers flow is now the best iv ever seen, seems like a lot less slippage with the pla against the hobbed bolt, im just using the white pla they sent me for free, to the eye it looks alot thinner than the rest of my pla, i have it set to 2.5 mm in my program..
Im getting good luck with my printer lately, it just seems to be getting better and better, less dud prints, id say my prints turn out good, 9 times out of 10 ..
i have just been using the .7mm nozzle tho, i got a free .4mm nozzle that i might change to tomorrow and print out the grim reaper to see the difference.
What nozzles have you tired?
MattyCiii
100 kW
I'm thinking poor adhesion. Looking around, there's a recommendation that he extruder should be ~5 degrees C hotter for black ABS than for natural. I've recently started printing in black...nechaus said:
Also, I think I had the layer height dialed down too low. So, the nozzle literally pushed the 8mm tall piece off the platform.
0.4mm so far, nothing else.nechaus said:
I went ahead though and upgraded the firmware... I'm compiling my build gcode now, with the new FW and correct temp. I hope it works out well!
nechaus
100 kW
good luck man,
what about getting out your PLA? giving that a shot to print with ?
im extruding atm white PLA @ 215c, since i have good flow, my prints are sticking to my board like mad, I have not even alligened my print bed correctly in ages.. Been using blue painters tape in the many layers to get the right height in the Z home position, im lazy sometimes!! + my print bed is actually warped from eariler noob days.
You should post some pictures of your prints man!
im close to finishing printing most of the parts for my quadcopter, the + frame is done, legs done, motor mounts done, gopro exo skeleton done,
Just need to make small boxes for the, Receiver, flight controller, battery bay, also a holder for the video transmitter
looked @ the manual last night, hopefully will have it wired up today.
my Version 1 of the quad copter will be just getting it to fly, get to know flight times, refining the design, getting out the kinks
Version 2, Video functions
version 3, Video pan and tilt
Version 4 , Drone like features, gps, sonar, ect..
Im also going to set up my Hero2 with the timelapse feature @ 8 megapixel shots, im gonna make a 5 min video of a print today as well
what about getting out your PLA? giving that a shot to print with ?
im extruding atm white PLA @ 215c, since i have good flow, my prints are sticking to my board like mad, I have not even alligened my print bed correctly in ages.. Been using blue painters tape in the many layers to get the right height in the Z home position, im lazy sometimes!! + my print bed is actually warped from eariler noob days.
You should post some pictures of your prints man!
im close to finishing printing most of the parts for my quadcopter, the + frame is done, legs done, motor mounts done, gopro exo skeleton done,
Just need to make small boxes for the, Receiver, flight controller, battery bay, also a holder for the video transmitter
looked @ the manual last night, hopefully will have it wired up today.
my Version 1 of the quad copter will be just getting it to fly, get to know flight times, refining the design, getting out the kinks
Version 2, Video functions
version 3, Video pan and tilt
Version 4 , Drone like features, gps, sonar, ect..
Im also going to set up my Hero2 with the timelapse feature @ 8 megapixel shots, im gonna make a 5 min video of a print today as well
nechaus
100 kW
MattyCiii
100 kW
How often do you replace the painter's tape?
I had a good test print, then went to print a part, and it unstuck. It's either from not using a raft on this print and small footprint of the part, or maybe the blue tape needs to be replaced (after <10 uses). Probably both.
I had a good test print, then went to print a part, and it unstuck. It's either from not using a raft on this print and small footprint of the part, or maybe the blue tape needs to be replaced (after <10 uses). Probably both.
nechaus
100 kW
yeah,
The painters tape needs to be changed as much as you need to.. ( more maintenance than kepton, but alot easier to change and get on the board straight)
sometimes it lasts more than 20 prints, sometimes it sticks to damm well i have to rip up the tape with the print...
Bigger object are hard to rip off, small ones i found generally come off easily, and can make the tape last ages..
so i guess its always different and depends on how well i have my print bed lined up
The crew i got my printer from say their kepton lasts over 4 weeks on their production printer... its basically printing 24/7
The painters tape needs to be changed as much as you need to.. ( more maintenance than kepton, but alot easier to change and get on the board straight)
sometimes it lasts more than 20 prints, sometimes it sticks to damm well i have to rip up the tape with the print...
Bigger object are hard to rip off, small ones i found generally come off easily, and can make the tape last ages..
so i guess its always different and depends on how well i have my print bed lined up
The crew i got my printer from say their kepton lasts over 4 weeks on their production printer... its basically printing 24/7
nechaus
100 kW
I'm seriously tempted to buy a 3D printer....
will probably by one this week or next.... I keep telling myself not to buy one... I don't need one... and have no use for one....
just a toy for me to geek out with really....
this one looks good....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/The-TF1-3D-printer-by-Thingfarm-com-/221136643106?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item337cc56422
they apparently have some system where the extruder stepper motor isn't on the print head... so the print heat is lighter, so it can print faster, and more accurately than other 3D printers... but I need to have a proper google before I buy one to make sure that's real/true and not just marketing BS
will probably by one this week or next.... I keep telling myself not to buy one... I don't need one... and have no use for one....
just a toy for me to geek out with really....
this one looks good....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/The-TF1-3D-printer-by-Thingfarm-com-/221136643106?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item337cc56422
they apparently have some system where the extruder stepper motor isn't on the print head... so the print heat is lighter, so it can print faster, and more accurately than other 3D printers... but I need to have a proper google before I buy one to make sure that's real/true and not just marketing BS
If the feed motor isn't on the output point, it might have "sticking" issues, rather like a lot of cheap wirefeed welders do, where it doesnt' feed properly because the wire can get bound up in hte feed tube past the motor, where pushing doesn't help but pulling would have.
nechaus
100 kW
here is a picture of my messy printer, it all needs to be cleaned.. using some SLA for spool holders and a cheap clamp haha...
My print head also uses the tube... i actually like it, its easier to service, change print nozzles ect..
if you were serious about buying one, check out reprap.org
id recommend buying one from www.3dstuffmaker.com www.iprinttechnology.com same company...
The reason i say this, if you are new to 3d printing, these guys will offer you so much support, you use skype and video any issue.., they are 100% great support team..
+ iv have loads of free replacement parts !!!
My print head also uses the tube... i actually like it, its easier to service, change print nozzles ect..
if you were serious about buying one, check out reprap.org
id recommend buying one from www.3dstuffmaker.com www.iprinttechnology.com same company...
The reason i say this, if you are new to 3d printing, these guys will offer you so much support, you use skype and video any issue.., they are 100% great support team..
+ iv have loads of free replacement parts !!!
Attachments
nechaus
100 kW
Kin
10 kW
My printer comes in tomorrow...I have a busy next 10 days though, I might not get much time on it. *major alas.*
Will post pics soon. My first order of action, after I do a few thingiverse Stls and so forth to get the hand, will be a case for charging up individual 18650s with a few terminals I bought from newark using the 6s hyena isolated charger.
Will post pics soon. My first order of action, after I do a few thingiverse Stls and so forth to get the hand, will be a case for charging up individual 18650s with a few terminals I bought from newark using the 6s hyena isolated charger.
nechaus
100 kW
Kin said:
Awesome man!!! im excited for you, let me know if you have any issues, i might be able to help you, hopefully all goes well tho!
I personally have not gotten sick of printing yet, I have quite a bit of fun designing something and then printing it!
What printer did you buy again ?
Kin
10 kW
Solidoodle, technically I bought two (no money left ), because I bought one used now after my printer order was delayed even more (I expected it to be in now, but turns out they'd been saying 8-10 weeks for ages even when it was more clearly 16-18 weeks lead time.) I haven't canceled my order yet that comes mid december, because I have no guarantee that the printer I bought used will survive shipping from CA.
), because I bought one used now after my printer order was delayed even more (I expected it to be in now, but turns out they'd been saying 8-10 weeks for ages even when it was more clearly 16-18 weeks lead time.) I haven't canceled my order yet that comes mid december, because I have no guarantee that the printer I bought used will survive shipping from CA.nechaus
100 kW
it should survive, like even if you have broken parts, 99% of the stuff you will be able to get and repair it!,
If you need any printed parts man, i can print you out stuff and send it to you to get you up and running! extruder ect..
hopefully its all ok tho, depending on the xray scanners, they may disrupt your firmware, so its possible that it may need to be reflashed!
( told by 3dstuffmaker) its what happened to me, i have a gen 6 board.. so i got my self an amtel avr programmer, might be an idea to buy one if you dont have one yet. you can get cheap ones for like $5 from hk i think... just gotta make sure it will program the chip you have on your control board
If you need any printed parts man, i can print you out stuff and send it to you to get you up and running! extruder ect..
hopefully its all ok tho, depending on the xray scanners, they may disrupt your firmware, so its possible that it may need to be reflashed!
( told by 3dstuffmaker) its what happened to me, i have a gen 6 board.. so i got my self an amtel avr programmer, might be an idea to buy one if you dont have one yet. you can get cheap ones for like $5 from hk i think... just gotta make sure it will program the chip you have on your control board
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