Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

adrian_sm said:
You need a temperature gradient for it to move the heat. If the "fins" are nearly ideticcal to the motor temps, this does point to not having enough surface area to disipate the heat.

just my 2 cents worth.

- Adrian

I agree, there probably is a gradient and the gradient may not be pronounced enough to tell by touch if the sink is not efficient enough. Thermometers would tell the tale.

The fins are only thin in order to fit more fins into the design. Surface area is the name of the game.

You did good making them black. :wink:
 
How is the nuvinci holding up?
 
Well, i finally got the bike put back together today, charged it up and went to the Moncton Motorcycle show and shine, it's one hot day out here, 30 something celcius and no wind, i pushed the bike as hard as i usually do and hottest spot i got on the heat sinks was 58 celcius, hot, but better than before !!!

One absolute advantage to the heavy heat sinks, it reduces motor vibration and sound !! a noticable improvement in that area !
 
Ha! I mock and scoff at your 30C



*More mocking and scoffing*
 
Aaaaaaw dont pick on YPedalMaaN, they only get like 27 days a year where its not either pissing rain or the ground covered in 24 feet of snow, let him enjoy those chilly 30c days while they last, :p :p

KiM
 
heh heh.. yeah.. we get it all out here.. but low 30's is typical, high 30's is rare, 40's are record breakers in the maritimes but it's always high humidity.. you just sweat and dont dry.

Just got back from a night ride, way awsome fun with 3 cycle Lumenators trail riding.. it dont get any better than this !
 
I noticed the same thing (quieter running with heatsinks). There is a certain muffled sound it produces. This is one principal I am exploiting on a project I am working on right now.

Matt
 
Fixed the RC bike once again !!

After installing the heat sinks, i went for a short ride and within a few minutes i developed a ricketyrack noise..... bike still ran but the thing was driving me insane !

Took it all apart tonight, added a 1mm shim on the 2nd stage chain smaller sproket to line them up perfectly, the chain never jumped but it is now as good as it can be..

The racket was caused by one of the set screws on the motor pulley having come loose, so i diveted the motor shaft a bit more and used loc-tite on it.. Also shimmed the belt pulley to better centre the belt..

Re-did the spring idler for the 3rd stage as the movement had eaten it's way thru the aluminum plate and was no longer keeping proper tension..

And after all those adjustments, things are good with the world once again !

I also cut off 2 of the heat sink lobes to pull the motor closer to the frame, i almost did an endo the other day after learning that the front fork would flex enough to jam the tire into the heat sinks if i hit the brakes hard enough !!!... :shock:

Oh, and amberworlf, i took the opertunity to add heat sink compound to the heat sinks this time around !! 8)

Tomorrow, if time permits, i plan to finish the ABS panels to cover the battery packs properly and mount the andersons for charging instead of dangling cables as it is now.
 
ok... after a huge amount of head scratching.. and some digging into my archives.. and parts bins.... i found an extra TPpacks LVC-HVC-4.3.4 kit ....



At first, i was going to install the LVC board and hook it up to the Fechter throttle box somehow, but changed my mind and am simply going to use the Hyperion 1420 charger harness to make balance charging easier and a one plug solution..

Right now i'm using my 3010B and charging each 24v packs seperately.. not that much fun.

rc5-1ab.JPG

short version, the A battery is the one with the Negative pack lead... the B batter is the one with the Positive discharge lead.
 
used 16 awg wire for the balance leads.. and 12 awg for the charge leads.

getting the tiny pins on the white 24pin connector was a challenge with 16 gauge cable.. but i got it in there.. :twisted:

rc5-3-harness.JPG

I totally do not need that heavy gauge wire for the 10~15 amps i'm going to be charging at but i like a sturdy harness that wont fall apart on the bike... always better to over-do stuff like that imo.
 
Tonight i'm working on the charger side of the harness.. i need to extend the JST wires from the charger about 1 meter with 16 awg and make damn sure the wires are going to the right place... damn i hope i dont smoke my charger on the first go... ugh. i make it happen.. but i suck at this stuff.
 
Daymmn.. this has to be the heaviest charge/wire harness on any ebike in ES history..

630g and this is not counting the 6S4P x2 ( 10 awg ) + balance wire harness already on the bike. :shock:

Pouring rain out here again, the pack is fully charged, going to have to wait until tomorrow so i can drag all this out to the driveway with garden hose on the ready for when i plug it all in.....

i'm sure i got it right... but not " that " sure... :lol:
 
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