19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

thanks for that.

thats the one iv ordered so thats great to know.

iv managed to avoid the narrow part of the chainstays by dropping the axle down by 1.5" and back by 0.5" with bolt on torque plates.

so hopefully this should be sweet!

will post pics when the bits arrive.
 
So on occasion, I get PM about which MC wheel size I like the best on the rear. Since I have tried 24 and 26 MTB rims, along with 17, 18, and 19 MC wheels with more than 25 different tires between all of them, this is my take, the 18x1.4 rim running either a 2.75 SR 241 shinko, or an IRC TR1 is the best on the rear. I like the 18 because it looks great with a 24MTB and 19 MC on the front, and isn't much bigger than the 17 mc wheel tire so mechanical advantage is optimized. If someone wants to run an 18x3.00 SR 241, the OD of that tire is 24.7 inches and would look good with a 26MTB rim and tire combo. Here is a pic of some of my rims. Against the stove is a 19x1.4 Prohweel racing rim, a generic grey 18x1.4 aluminum rim with the thickest and heaviest anodizing I have ever seen, then a 17x1.4 rim, and 5 18x1.4 racing boy rims.
 
this is my take, the 18x1.4 rim running either a 2.75 SR 241 shinko, or an IRC TR1 is the best on the rear.

I would get an 18x1.4 rim in a heartbeat (currently running a 19x1.4 pro wheel) but I spent a ton last year on stuff and while my wife hasn't said I can't get what I want she now gives me "the look" when I order anything over a 100 bucks bicycle wise, even when I work the overtime to pay for it, but it will be in the 4th quarter budget for sure.
 
So if anyone wonders aboiut weight.
I changed from a (solid) 24" bycicle rim with Schwalbe Crazy Bob 2.35 wide tyre to a 19 x 1.4 moped rim and Heidenau K46 2.5 wide tyre.
Diameter is very similiar. The whole wheel is now about 2kg heavier (13.5kg)
 

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Dlogic said:
Finally it´s done!
She rides on 18 inch Heidenau K65 motorcycle tires now.
These tires are 3 inches wide. Looks great and yes, you can even ride without using the motor.

Handles so much better then before with the bikes tires. :)
The rims are aluminum from the east German motorcycle MZ - ETZ 250. They measure 18 * 1,60, making them super slim. They only cost 32 € a piece.


Best scooter tires I ever ran. Love me some Heidenau. The K56 are the hardest wearing compound I ever used.
 
Anyone have the spoke length for a MXUS 3000 into a JH Pro-wheel 19"x1.6" rim? The couple diagrams I've found of it have differing measurements. One listed the spoke holes diameter at 231mm and the other is listed at 240mm?!
 
That's about an 1/8 inch right? does it matter that much?

HEADS UP- SHINKO has their tires on amazon for about 30/pc !! Don't buy em all up b4 I get some tho.

*If anyone knows or has run into this: WHY are all the prowheel rims arond 100$ /pc now?

Seems really excessive seeing they were 35$ before- not many things go up by 300% in a year.
 
nutspecial said:
That's about an 1/8 inch right? does it matter that much?

HEADS UP- SHINKO has their tires on amazon for about 30/pc !! Don't buy em all up b4 I get some tho.

*If anyone knows or has run into this: WHY are all the prowheel rims arond 100$ /pc now?

Seems really excessive seeing they were 35$ before- not many things go up by 300% in a year.
That's not correct for Prowheel racing rims. I bought my first 3 19x1.40 Yamaha Play bike rims from them in june 2012, they were 110 buck a piece then. I have since purchase 3 17x1.4 from them and they were 93 bucks each. Now I purchase 5 18x1.4 US racing boy rims for 19 bucks each from China, but shipping cost me 197 which was more than the actual rim so I am into them almost as much as the Prowheel racing rims per unit price.
 
Those are blowout specials on unpopular colours / sizes / drillings. People are just trying to clear stock out (and have been for a while)

Fortunately they suit high power ebikers and are a bargin if you don't mind some wacky colours.
 
nutspecial said:
Yeah looks like gold right now, and just 1.85", (supposedly that's more suitable for tires 2.5wide and up?)
I just cant let myself spend 125 extra (pair) for a color- not like I can see 'em when I'm riding anyway - gold it is!

Use plastidip to make them any color you want. Then if you change your mind and want a different color, just peel it off and respray. If you want them really cool looking there is a metalizer or pearlizer spray as well that goes over the initial coating. A $10.00 can should do both wheels.

The Excel Takasago rims are a better quality than the Prowheel and there are some on ebay for around $35 more than the cheap Prowheel rims ($86 after shipping). Silver only; but you can always dip them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Excel-Takas...Parts_Accessories&hash=item336070727d&vxp=mtr
 
nutspecial said:
PAGE 1, first post screenshot ebay 35$ ??

*edit. Found it!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Rim-1-85x19-36H-KX-KXF-YZ-YZF-RMZ250-Yellow-/280715204736?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415bee1880&vxp=mtr

They do say they're prowheel?

You are correct, I missed that. As VC said those were blowout sales, and blemished as well, I have two blemished rims, I can't see the blemish though. Those prices aren't the norm unfortunately.
 
I don't think the 1.85 is worth it. You don't need something that wide on a low powered ebike. An ebike isn't losing traction in the rear because of too much Torque. Just look at bicycle tires, they are skinny on the rear because traction is not a problem. I assume you will also have more rolling resistance with a wider rim, another thing you don't want with a ebike that works off of limited battery power and a hub motor that likes to overheat.

Lets not forget that 1.85 wide rim probably weighs a lot. I remember a guy on the forum who bought really wide prowheel rims and he was selling them because they were simply too wide and heavy. They may have been 2.15" in size, and they were double the weight of the 1.4's I believe.

And you think you need something tougher than a prowheel, actually in my opinion the prowheels are built too strong for an ebike. Probably best with something in between a bicycle rim and a motorcycle rim for an ebike. We have extra weight on that rim which isn't really needed. Same holds for the shinko 241 tire. Would be nice to have it a little lighter and thinner to save weight, but not as thin as a bicycle tire.

The question I have is, does a wider rear tire offer more traction when turning or slipping out on stuff like wet grass or roots?

The prowheels can be bought specially drilled for hubmotors so you don't have the spokes bent as much when they get inserted into the nipples. How much this matters is hard to say. I prefer it and paid a bit extra for this from Holmes Hobbies.
 
Offroader said:
I don't think the 1.85 is worth it. You don't need something that wide on a low powered ebike. An ebike isn't losing traction in the rear because of too much Torque. Just look at bicycle tires, they are skinny on the rear because traction is not a problem. I assume you will also have more rolling resistance with a wider rim, another thing you don't want with a ebike that works off of limited battery power and a hub motor that likes to overheat.

Lets not forget that 1.85 wide rim probably weighs a lot. I remember a guy on the forum who bought really wide prowheel rims and he was selling them because they were simply too wide and heavy. They may have been 2.15" in size, and they were double the weight of the 1.4's I believe.

And you think you need something tougher than a prowheel, actually in my opinion the prowheels are built too strong for an ebike. Probably best with something in between a bicycle rim and a motorcycle rim for an ebike. We have extra weight on that rim which isn't really needed. Same holds for the shinko 241 tire. Would be nice to have it a little lighter and thinner to save weight, but not as thin as a bicycle tire.

The question I have is, does a wider rear tire offer more traction when turning or slipping out on stuff like wet grass or roots?

The prowheels can be bought specially drilled for hubmotors so you don't have the spokes bent as much when they get inserted into the nipples. How much this matters is hard to say. I prefer it and paid a bit extra for this from Holmes Hobbies.

Good point Offroader, yah the 1.4 rims are way overbuilt for E=bicycle applications, the 1.85 and 2.15 are way way way over built for ebike applications, any mc rim in the 1.85-2.15 wide range is designed for 60+ hp moto cross bikes, such as the KTM SXF450.
 
100volts+ said:
this is my take, the 18x1.4 rim running either a 2.75 SR 241 shinko, or an IRC TR1 is the best on the rear.

I would get an 18x1.4 rim in a heartbeat (currently running a 19x1.4 pro wheel) but I spent a ton last year on stuff and while my wife hasn't said I can't get what I want she now gives me "the look" when I order anything over a 100 bucks bicycle wise, even when I work the overtime to pay for it, but it will be in the 4th quarter budget for sure.

I picked up (4) Revenge 22" BMX 36H rims like this on eBay for some future builds with 18" DOT moped tires. The bead diameter is 457mm, or 18". The seat width is narrower at about 1.06", but I've been able to mount 2.50" and 2.75" X 16" DOT moped tires on 20" BMX rims before, no problems.

These rims are not as HD as the moto rims, but also way lighter, and are drilled for bicycle spokes. Nice for lightweight builds with HD tires/tubes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Revenge-...557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item463401b00d

Might be worth a look.
 
Hugechainring said:
100volts+ said:
this is my take, the 18x1.4 rim running either a 2.75 SR 241 shinko, or an IRC TR1 is the best on the rear.

I would get an 18x1.4 rim in a heartbeat (currently running a 19x1.4 pro wheel) but I spent a ton last year on stuff and while my wife hasn't said I can't get what I want she now gives me "the look" when I order anything over a 100 bucks bicycle wise, even when I work the overtime to pay for it, but it will be in the 4th quarter budget for sure.

I picked up (4) Revenge 22" BMX 36H rims like this on eBay for some future builds with 18" DOT moped tires. The bead diameter is 457mm, or 18". The seat width is narrower at about 1.06", but I've been able to mount 2.50" and 2.75" X 16" DOT moped tires on 20" BMX rims before, no problems.

These rims are not as HD as the moto rims, but also way lighter, and are drilled for bicycle spokes. Nice for lightweight builds with HD tires/tubes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Revenge-...557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item463401b00d

Might be worth a look.

Thanks for the link, I may look into that, I have 18x1.4 mc rims and that would be the perfect front rim for anyone wanting to run the same size tire front and rear. 2.75-18 SR241 front and rear would make for a sweet handling ride.
 
I'm having my Cromotor built into an Excel 1.85x19 rim, I'll use the same rim for the front wheel as well. 1.85 rims are overkill I admit but I like the chunky look and think the extra weight/increase in rolling resistance will be negligible over a 1.4 rim. My Raptor is probably going to weigh in at around 55kg so worrying about another 1 or 2 makes little sense to me. I'm going to fit 2.75x19 Shinko's sr241's on both wheels.

The guy building the wheels for me specialises in Motocross and Supermoto wheels, he says getting the spoke angles correct is critical if you want to avoid breakages, my rims are being drilled specially for the motor and front hub so I'm hoping I won't have problems with broken spokes. I'm having 12g stainless steel spokes in the front and 10g for the rear.
 
Jackrabbit said:
I'm having my Cromotor built into an Excel 1.85x19 rim, I'll use the same rim for the front wheel as well. 1.85 rims are overkill I admit but I like the chunky look and think the extra weight/increase in rolling resistance will be negligible over a 1.4 rim. My Raptor is probably going to weigh in at around 55kg so worrying about another 1 or 2 makes little sense to me. I'm going to fit 2.75x19 Shinko's sr241's on both wheels.

The guy building the wheels for me specialises in Motocross and Supermoto wheels, he says getting the spoke angles correct is critical if you want to avoid breakages, my rims are being drilled specially for the motor and front hub so I'm hoping I won't have problems with broken spokes. I'm having 12g stainless steel spokes in the front and 10g for the rear.

That's the beauty of the this hobby Jack Rabbit, we all have the freedom to do what ever we want. With the 1.85 wide over the 1.4 wide rims, you are only gaining a couple of pounds each front and rear. Not a big deal in the grand scheme of things. One thing is for sure, you will like it over MTB wheels for your build immensely, post some pics of your build when you can.

Rick
 
zombiess said:
Just another warning to watch your rim width when going to MC rims/tires. I purchased some 19x2.14" wide Warp9 wheels but did not fully understand the width until I received them already built from VoltRiders. They were WAY wider than I anticipated. With the tires mounted the 19x2.75" Shinko SR244 tires ended up being 3.3x" wide at the cross section! Luckily for me this was not an issue and everything fit my Greyborg Warp frame and DNM USD180 forks. The forks have the tightest fit with less than 1/4" clearance to the narrowest part of the down tubes.

I did not set out to build a fat tire bike but it is now what I have and it looks and rides AWESOME!

Be aware you will pay a weight penalty of around 5-10lbs per wheel when going to a MC setup, but the benefits are super long tire life, low chance of a flat tire (my main reason I went MC/Moped in the first place), a more cushioned ride (lower air pressure required), stronger spokes since it is now OK to build with spokes as thick as 8-10 gauge and far superior traction. Another upside I noticed is they loose air a lot slower so they require less frequent pumping. Yet another upside is that building a moped/MC setup costs about the same as a bicycle setup! Most rims/tires/tubes for moped/MC are the same or even cheaper than the same bicycle parts.

For reference in the last 3 years of bicycle riding i have experienced at least 10 flats between all my bikes when running bicycle tires. On bicycles with moped/mc tires I have had ZERO flats. Total miles on each type of setup is ~500.

For most bicycle setups I suggest not going larger than 19" as it is very hard to find a tire that will fit in 21". For 19" there are narrow (2.5") street tires available for old school dirt bikes and mopeds. Check out treatland.tv for some 19" street suggestions.

For those interested in the Shinko offerings, the SR241 is a 60% dirt / 40% street tire and the SR244 is a 60% street / 40% dirt tire from the many reviews I have seen.


Hey any chance you have a pic of the bike with that 3.3" wide tire setup? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger for that exact setup on my new motoped with the 200mm fork and I'm hoping it fits!
 
Offroader said:
I don't think the 1.85 is worth it. You don't need something that wide on a low powered ebike. An ebike isn't losing traction in the rear because of too much Torque. Just look at bicycle tires, they are skinny on the rear because traction is not a problem. I assume you will also have more rolling resistance with a wider rim, another thing you don't want with a ebike that works off of limited battery power and a hub motor that likes to overheat.

Lets not forget that 1.85 wide rim probably weighs a lot. I remember a guy on the forum who bought really wide prowheel rims and he was selling them because they were simply too wide and heavy. They may have been 2.15" in size, and they were double the weight of the 1.4's I believe.

And you think you need something tougher than a prowheel, actually in my opinion the prowheels are built too strong for an ebike. Probably best with something in between a bicycle rim and a motorcycle rim for an ebike. We have extra weight on that rim which isn't really needed. Same holds for the shinko 241 tire. Would be nice to have it a little lighter and thinner to save weight, but not as thin as a bicycle tire.

The question I have is, does a wider rear tire offer more traction when turning or slipping out on stuff like wet grass or roots?

The prowheels can be bought specially drilled for hubmotors so you don't have the spokes bent as much when they get inserted into the nipples. How much this matters is hard to say. I prefer it and paid a bit extra for this from Holmes Hobbies.

Despite the disadvantages there are 2 advantages to the wider rims.
1. They make mounting the tire a bit easier since there is a wider valley for the bead to sit in while mounting

2. The 2.15 looks SWEET on the back :lol:

full disclosure: I have a MAC 6T laced into a 2.15 and I love it. (although I have been kicking the cromotor/MXUS 3000 idea around a bit)
 
and i just noticed that this volt rider's cromo wheel has all the spoke on the inside of the hub:
IMG_0598.jpg


whereas the spoke directions on this volt rider's one alternate:
image_12_zpsf7e7601d.jpeg


i hope this helps, and others can add useful info.

i know there are many more smaller MC wheels, and while those are great for non-pedaled bikes, i always feared getting the pedals too low w/ 17 and 18" wheels. but i've never tried one so don't really know, and that's why i made this about 19" MC wheels..[/quote]

is there any pros/cons for spokes all inside of the hub like in top pic?
it does feel more comfortable todo this way..
 
No worries. 16" wheels, 6000 km later, not even once I cornered too low. Obviously, you have to make sure your pedals are not in their lowest position, when you're leaning in the corner.

2s0ifs4.jpg
 
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