19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

i still know 3/5 of f.a about lacing wheels... here is how ive done my rear wheel for latest build.

does it look ok or still need some work?
let me know guys. thanks.
 

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hard to say if it runs true with a picture only, but the angle etc looks good :)
imo it makes no difference if you make alterntaing spoke heads or all on same side (John has told me).
what i've found out is alternating heads is a bit easier to lace because the spokes do not bend..
 
You'll know soon enough how well the build was done. If spokes start coming loose then it is a bad build job. You're going to pretty much have to check spoke tension after each ride.
 
ridethelightning said:
i still know 3/5 of f.a about lacing wheels... here is how ive done my rear wheel for latest build.

does it look ok or still need some work?
let me know guys. thanks.

Wheel looks good from the pic. I see 1X lacing pattern. If the wheel is true, you are good to go. Expect some spoke stretching after the first few rides, tighten and true as needed and you will be fine.
 
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Slightly left turn here but I have decided to drop from a 26" bike wheel to a 24" for my forthcoming Mxus motor.
Will I regret not going for a 19" bike wheel??? :shock:
 
inbound VS outbound VS alternating isn't very important when the flanges are far enough apart for proper bracing, like a cromotor. What is important, is making sure the spoke angles are good for the rim. On rims where we could get away with outbound spokes, we would alternate the pattern. On rims where we needed a more direct insertion, all inbound was the choice. It is easiest to lace with alternating pattern IMO.
 
striker54 said:
unclejam said:
Slightly left turn here but I have decided to drop from a 26" bike wheel to a 24" for my forthcoming Mxus motor.
Will I regret not going for a 19" bike wheel??? :shock:

No, you will regret not going for a 17" moto wheel :wink:

Yeah you're probably right (I meant to say 19" moto wheel) I'll probably remember this conversation when I get my first flat tyre!
 
unclejam said:
Slightly left turn here but I have decided to drop from a 26" bike wheel to a 24" for my forthcoming Mxus motor.
Will I regret not going for a 19" bike wheel??? :shock:

What kind of power and terrain will you be riding. Also, how much do you weigh. For me, riding the Bomber and Fighter on rock offroad terrain with both the Duro Razorback 3x24 and Felt Bermaster 3x24 wasn't enough. I flatted just about every ride, sometimes even when I was being semi cautious. Never had a problem after I went to 19x1.4 rims, then the 17x1.4 and now the hard to find 18x1.4 rims. The Shinko SR241 is the best all around tire there is with the IRC TR1 and VeeRubber VRM021 coming in at a close second place. All of these tires in the 2.75-19 size are very good. The IRC TR1 and VRM021 are really close to actual size width wise, the SR241 is about 1/3 inch (8mm) wider than the advertised 2.75 inches listed. Also the TR1 and VRM021 are about a pound lighter. The outer diameter of the SR241 and TR1 is just 25.1 inches, and the VRM is 24.8 inches so they are all comparable in size with your average 3x24 MTB tires. Here is pic of my bike running the 18x1.4 on the rear with the IRC TR1 2.75-18 and a 24MTB on the front with the Duro Razorback 3x24.
 

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Thanks Rix, I'll be mostly doing lanes and cycle paths ( commuting) with 19s 6p pack (79v).
I weigh 182 pounds. Sleepy ol Devon doesn't have any tumbleweeds with big thorns though! :)
At the moment I have Crazy Bobs fitted and would rather use a road tyre if possible.
Cheers Chris
 
Nice ride by the way 8)
 
unclejam said:
Thanks Rix, I'll be mostly doing lanes and cycle paths ( commuting) with 19s 6p pack (79v).
I weigh 182 pounds. Sleepy ol Devon doesn't have any tumbleweeds with big thorns though! :)
At the moment I have Crazy Bobs fitted and would rather use a road tyre if possible.
Cheers Chris

Sounds like you would definitely be fine with a good MTB wheel and tire combo then. Post some pics when your machine starts to materialize.
 
image.jpgProgress so far was halted on maiden voyage by a broken motor :( (chipped or broken magnets) so while that's being fixed, I had read so much about Mxus 3000w motors, I have ordered a 4T V2 from E4bikes. I'll see which motor I like the best when it lands.
I managed to get over 50kmh with a broken motor! Very frustrating to have to break it all down again after spending a whole year building, testing, modifying, testing, machining, Ebaying, etc. etc. :?
 
I started this build before I knew very much and as I progressed, I realised that the 7005 alloy frame which was so chunky and appealing at the start, was going to be difficult to make pretty with all the wiring and hardware attached.
I've had little choice but to settle on a very non- stealth look, so I've embraced that with a handlebar fairing, twin Cree headlights and a Kermit green swing Arm! What the heck - there are very few coppers in the Devon countryside and they have to catch me first :wink:
 

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unclejam wrote:
Thanks Rix, I'll be mostly doing lanes and cycle paths ( commuting) with 19s 6p pack (79v).
I weigh 182 pounds. Sleepy ol Devon doesn't have any tumbleweeds with big thorns though! :)
At the moment I have Crazy Bobs fitted and would rather use a road tyre if possible.
Cheers Chris


Sounds like you would definitely be fine with a good MTB wheel and tire combo then. Post some pics when your machine starts to materialize.

I never say never but I ride pavement and bike lanes and I can't see going back to a bicycle tire because a moto rim and tire is such a stable ride. No more frequent rim flat spots, pinch flats puncture flats Ad infinitum. I've even had my bike tires slip out from under me. That said, an ebike does need a little more power to push that rubber, but to me it's a fair trade.
 
100volts+ said:
unclejam wrote:
Thanks Rix, I'll be mostly doing lanes and cycle paths ( commuting) with 19s 6p pack (79v).
I weigh 182 pounds. Sleepy ol Devon doesn't have any tumbleweeds with big thorns though! :)
At the moment I have Crazy Bobs fitted and would rather use a road tyre if possible.
Cheers Chris


Sounds like you would definitely be fine with a good MTB wheel and tire combo then. Post some pics when your machine starts to materialize.

I never say never but I ride pavement and bike lanes and I can't see going back to a bicycle tire because a moto rim and tire is such a stable ride. No more frequent rim flat spots, pinch flats puncture flats Ad infinitum. I've even had my bike tires slip out from under me. That said, an ebike does need a little more power to push that rubber, but to me it's a fair trade.

Agreed, but I was merely pointing out that good mtb tires will do the job for uncle jam. I am with you, I wont run anything but a MC tire on the rear.

Uncle Jam, that's a neat homebuild. The creative innovation you have put into it is inspiring. I like it.
 
image.jpgThanks for the opinions fellas - all input is welcome and I love the idea of 18" / 17" moto rims and tyres but I have to start riding what I've built before I can start the never ending process of modifying and tweaking :lol: It's definitely a "man thing" isn't it??
Anyway, I'll start off with a 24" rear cycle rim build and a "Fatti-O" 24 x 3" road tyre off a Straight 8 bike, as they seem pretty thick rubber with minimal tread grooves to get nails / glass in and see how I get on.

Thanks for the compliment Rix, I have to admit a lot of head scratching went into the build, especially the battery box quick mount system. I used alloy video camera mounts.
 
nice front shield^^
the battery mounting mechanism is genius!
 
I can't claim all the credit for the camera mount idea - that was suggested by "Bigsi" (forum member, battery builder etc.) but actually fitting the mounts themselves was a challenge, as 5kgs of battery, case and mounts need to be pretty secure to stop them moving around and opening up bolt holes etc. I went through several ideas but in the end used long stainless M8 bolts right through the frame itself - one of the advantages of a chunky box section chassis! Now it's totally solid with no play at all.

It's nice to be able to flick two levers, remove the battery box and take it indoors for charging, security etc. after all, the battery is probably the single most expensive item on your bike isn't it?
 

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unclejam said:
I can't claim all the credit for the camera mount idea - that was suggested by "Bigsi" (forum member, battery builder etc.) but actually fitting the mounts themselves was a challenge, as 5kgs of battery, case and mounts need to be pretty secure to stop them moving around and opening up bolt holes etc. I went through several ideas but in the end used long stainless M8 bolts right through the frame itself - one of the advantages of a chunky box section chassis! Now it's totally solid with no play at all.

It's nice to be able to flick two levers, remove the battery box and take it indoors for charging, security etc. after all, the battery is probably the single most expensive item on your bike isn't it?

Any links to that fantastic system for the box?
 
I can't remember where they came from but these are similar:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Camera-Tripod-Quick-Release-Plate-1-5x2-inches-Mount-Adapter-Set-/261336332945?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cd8dbfa91
 
Here's another - just search for " quick release camera mounts"

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Camera-Stand-Tripod-Shutter-Quick-Release-Clamp-Plate-Mount-Screw-Adapter-Set-UK-/251693819464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a9a1ee648
 
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