Based on the replies there, it appears the above is workable; it's been done before (as I figured). Now I just have to locate a suitable donor rotor to reconfigure.
Last night I decided to try an experiment with the 50W halogen and the "13Ah" 12V NiMH pack, which due to the thermal damage it's had plus it's age was previously figured to be around half it's original capacity at anything like a normal load.
It turns out that at the ~4A the 50W halogen takes, it is pretty close to the original, at around 10.8Ah (126.6Wh) run down over 3.5 hours or so, to 10.63V (11.15V unloaded). It probably has more capacity, but I was only checking it every half hour or so, and didn't want to either sit and watch it for the rest down to 10V, or forget (or fall asleep) and leave it and end up with cells killed by running them down so far they reversed. :lol:
The pack was pretty warm by the end, though, almost as warm as it gets during normal charging. It was in fact so warm that when I hooked up the charger to recharge it afterward, it only got about 1.5Ah in it (only bringing it up to around 11.5V) before it shut off charge, presumably for thermal reasons.
I had to let it sit with a fan blowing on it for a few hours before I could recharge it for today's work commute. One more disadvantage of NiMH, I suppose.
Fan probably would've worked faster, but it was still about 85F in the house even at nearly 4am, with no wind at all overnite to take the 65F (by this time) air outside and blow it thru the house. I ended up turning on the evap (swamp) cooler without the water system, just to blow the cooler air thru the house for a while. (Tonight is even worse, at about 90F inside when I got home after 10pm, 85F outside, and even now at 12:30AM it's still 85F inside and 84F outside, with a very very slight movement of air--not even enough to call it a breeze).
So anyway, the NiMH pack will work for lighting just fine, even with this heavy drain on it, for just about any night ride I'd be doing.
What I think I will probably do when I remove the CFL is:
A) Put one of the 20W halogens on there as "low beam" and the 50W as "high beam", completely switching between the two.
B) Put the car headlight on there that has high and low beam built in, and switch between those.
The latter has the advantage that it is designed to make a beam for lighting up the road surface a distance away, yet still give enough light closer in to see things there, too, and it is also a halogen type (Sylvania, I think; the little ones I would use in option A are GE, IIRC?)
Both of them will need mounting hardware designed and built, that's strong enough to not shake all over like the CFL's does right now.
If there was any way with stuff I have to focus the CFL into a usable beam, I'd much rather do that, but I have played with all the lenses and parabolics I have or could make, to no avail. It's just too diffuse a source, I guess, with what I have around here.
Last night I decided to try an experiment with the 50W halogen and the "13Ah" 12V NiMH pack, which due to the thermal damage it's had plus it's age was previously figured to be around half it's original capacity at anything like a normal load.
It turns out that at the ~4A the 50W halogen takes, it is pretty close to the original, at around 10.8Ah (126.6Wh) run down over 3.5 hours or so, to 10.63V (11.15V unloaded). It probably has more capacity, but I was only checking it every half hour or so, and didn't want to either sit and watch it for the rest down to 10V, or forget (or fall asleep) and leave it and end up with cells killed by running them down so far they reversed. :lol:
The pack was pretty warm by the end, though, almost as warm as it gets during normal charging. It was in fact so warm that when I hooked up the charger to recharge it afterward, it only got about 1.5Ah in it (only bringing it up to around 11.5V) before it shut off charge, presumably for thermal reasons.
I had to let it sit with a fan blowing on it for a few hours before I could recharge it for today's work commute. One more disadvantage of NiMH, I suppose.
Fan probably would've worked faster, but it was still about 85F in the house even at nearly 4am, with no wind at all overnite to take the 65F (by this time) air outside and blow it thru the house. I ended up turning on the evap (swamp) cooler without the water system, just to blow the cooler air thru the house for a while. (Tonight is even worse, at about 90F inside when I got home after 10pm, 85F outside, and even now at 12:30AM it's still 85F inside and 84F outside, with a very very slight movement of air--not even enough to call it a breeze).
So anyway, the NiMH pack will work for lighting just fine, even with this heavy drain on it, for just about any night ride I'd be doing.
What I think I will probably do when I remove the CFL is:
A) Put one of the 20W halogens on there as "low beam" and the 50W as "high beam", completely switching between the two.
B) Put the car headlight on there that has high and low beam built in, and switch between those.
The latter has the advantage that it is designed to make a beam for lighting up the road surface a distance away, yet still give enough light closer in to see things there, too, and it is also a halogen type (Sylvania, I think; the little ones I would use in option A are GE, IIRC?)
Both of them will need mounting hardware designed and built, that's strong enough to not shake all over like the CFL's does right now.
If there was any way with stuff I have to focus the CFL into a usable beam, I'd much rather do that, but I have played with all the lenses and parabolics I have or could make, to no avail. It's just too diffuse a source, I guess, with what I have around here.