Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ccmdr]

douglashart - Lightly abrade the surface lacquer until you touch metal and solder the three lines across, your spot on . Because of the small area and the difficulty supporting the extra 4S board I'd probably consider re-lacquering post soldering to minimize any potential shorts, and then encase it in whatever your currently using.

 

[ridethelightning]

I'm building a bigger battery and need to reinstall a card to my BMS. Pretty sure I need to put the 3 jumpers across . I'm not sure how to glue it back on. Hot glue?, epoxy?, any ideas? Can anyone set me straight. thnx

I suggest mounting the bms on a backing plate with double sided mounting tape.
if using aluminium or other conductive material, make sure the back of the board is not in direct contact with it.

 

[Willow]

thats a nice solution. would be good to get the boards without the plugs already soldered in, then one less job.

 

[Altair]

Anyone know where I could get a single KTY84?
Digi-Key doesn't have them, in fact they're listed as discontinued.
Thanks

 

[Artur]

I'm building a bigger battery and need to reinstall a card to my BMS. Pretty sure I need to put the 3 jumpers across . I'm not sure how to glue it back on. Hot glue?, epoxy?, any ideas? Can anyone set me straight. thnx

I suggest mounting the bms on a backing plate with double sided mounting tape.
if using aluminium or other conductive material, make sure the back of the board is not in direct contact with it.

We offer this case with every bms for free, to avoid bms damage.

Anyone know where I could get a single KTY84?
Digi-Key doesn't have them, in fact they're listed as discontinued.
Thanks

I think I have. pm me

 

[ccmdr]

Artur - This is just a suggestion for a mod on the case you offer. If the internal of the BMS casing your offering has a foam cut out for consistant BMS mounting placment, wouldn't a few well placed holes to show visually the BMS is balancing. I know it's farkles, but when Adaptto put effort into making a 'swish' product, it'd be nice to show it off . Why have UV watercooling without UV cathods :lol:.

 

[brooklands]

Now I soldered everything like it should be, even the second green wire to the white wire of the connector. But same issue again. Absolutely nothing changed.

I am pretty sure that the connectors (on throttle and display) are ok because the controller works perfect with my hall throttle.

So maybe there is something wrong with the domino throttle. Does anybody have any values for the change of resistance between zero and full throttle? Maybe someone can test it with a multimeter on his domino...

Today I tested the potentiometer myself.

When I measure the resistance between white (GND) and light blue (+5V) I get 4.95 kOhm. Specification says 5 kOhm +/-10%, so this should be ok.

Next I measured between white (GND) and nero (wiper) and twisted the grip from 0 to 100% and these were the results:
0% --> 0.02 kOhm (or in other words a very small resistance)
100% --> 4.95 kOhm (which means 100% of the resistance)

EDIT: I managed to do a second measurement with the throttle connected to the Adaptto. It was a bit difficult with only two hands but I was able to measure the voltage between GND and Wiper.
0% --> 0 V
100% --> 4.4 V
So this should be ok, too.

Both measurements were done on the bare wires ahead of the connector.

Any ideas why my controller does not see anything of this voltage?

Hi guys,

I still have no clue why the throttle does not work with my controller.

Because the voltages on the throttle side (from the perspective of the connector) are ok I assume that the connector itself might be the problem. I filed off a bit of the plastic of the connectors to make the contact between both sides 'firmlier" (right term?). But again no improvements.

Now my question for today: Just to make sure that my pin assignment is ok can anybody please confirm my configuration?

Looking on the plug of the throttle you have the following pattern:

---2--3---
---o--o---
-o------o-
-1------4-

1. Left bottom is +5V (Adaptto: Brown // Domino: Green an Blue)
2. Left up is e-brake (A: white // D: green)
3. Right up is GND (A: black // D: D. white)
4. Right bottom is wiper (A: blue // D: black)

Unfortunately i did not manage to disassemble my working hall sensor throttle to disconnect its connector and try this one. And I don't want to destroy the only throttle which works on my adaptto.

Any further ideas?

 

[Altair]

Hi brooklands,

This pinout is identical to mine, as seen from the throttle side of the connector.
Do you have voltage between pins 1 &3 at the throttle itself?
And on the throttle, can you measure a varying voltage on the wiper?

EDIT: OK I see that you already did those tests, so no need to ask you again, heh!

 

[brooklands]

Hi brooklands,

This pinout is identical to mine, as seen from the throttle side of the connector.
Do you have voltage between pins 1 &3 at the throttle itself?
And on the throttle, can you measure a varying voltage on the wiper?

EDIT: OK I see that you already did those tests, so no need to ask you again, heh!

I measured the voltage between 1 and 3 (constant value) and between 3 and 4 (changing value). For testing purposes I also changed the wires between 1 and 3, just to make sure that I do not need an inverted signal. But with this configuration I only got the 'turned too fast' warning at the initial angle.

 

[Altair]

If the controller noticed that your wiring was reversed, it means it is getting a signal, at least.
With the correct polarity, were you able to see the cursor move in the thr limits config panel?

 

[brooklands]

If the controller noticed that your wiring was reversed, it means it is getting a signal, at least.
With the correct polarity, were you able to see the cursor move in the thr limits config panel?

Hm, there's a cursor in the throttle limits panel? I've never seen it but I will check when I am at home. I always set the limits manually.

When I am in the the thr linear panel and try to calibrate the throttle I can see a short reaction on the first degrees of the throttle angle. In this area the raw value changes between 0 and maybe 300 and the pos value from 0 to 1. But after this initial reaction nothing happens at all (pos remains 0, raw falls down to 0000) until I reach nearly the end of the throttle angle. Then I suddenly get the message 'turning too fast' (so I assume that the controller sees a voltage peak). Throttle limits are set to 0.1 an 4.4 V at this time.

But as written before: when I measure the voltage before the connection at the same time it changes linearly between 0 an 4.4 V.

 

[Altair]

Yes there is a cursor in the Thr Limits screen.
This is what shows your throttle input voltage relative to the Low threshold and the High threshold that you have selected.

I see that your lowest voltage from your throttle (0V) is too low!
You will have to add a resistor between the low end of your throttle and the ground. The throttle will therefore not be connected anymore directly to ground.
Put a 1K ohm resistor. This will give you a .83 volt minimum value.
This is so you can then set a minimum threshold of around 1 volt. This ensures that your motor won't start by itself if both voltages (low thres. and lowest pot voltage) are too close together.

You will also set the high threshold to a value that is slightly above the max of your pot, 4.4V.

 

[Altair]

About the Thr. Linear. panel:

This is not a mandatory setting. It just allows you to change or correct the V In/V Out curve of your throttle input.
With it, you can make, for example, a progressive curve where the low end of the throttle will not be as sensitive as the higher end.
You do that by varying the speed at which you turn the throttle, begin slow and go faster at the end, or the reverse.
But just do as it says and rotate at a constant speed and you will end up with a nice curve.

 

[bigbore]

Throttle limits are set to 0.1 an 4.4 V at this time.

Try to change the values in this way: 1.5V and 3.0V. I remember there is an upper value max voltage after that Adaptto do not work anymore with Domino throttle

 

[Altair]

Personally, I use a Hall effect throttle from EM3EV that outputs 0.86V to 4.26V and it works perfectly with the Adaptto.
My threshold setpoints are about 0.1V higher and lower than those numbers.

 

[brooklands]

From the following questions you will see that I am not really an electrician. To be honest I am always happy not having burned down the house when changing a bulb .

You will have to add a resistor between the low end of your throttle and the ground.

This means that I just have to solder a 1 kOhm Resistor into the white wire, right? Or on another position? Can somebody describe please for an absolute idiot?

Can you explain me why the controller does not work with a too low lower voltage?

 

[Hexa]

Help!!!
I just connected my Cromotor v2 to my Adaptto Mini-e Cotroller.
I directly got the !Halls! Error when powering up my Controller.
So i did a bit of measuring around. I noticed that i got 13K Ohm Resistance between Battery Minus and the Halls Connector minus. Also i measured minus from USB and The Hall Connector and got 13k Ohm too. I measured the plus signal on the hall Sensor connector against minus of the battery andgot 4,6 Volts.

So i connected the Minus of the Halls to Minus of the Battery and powerded my Controller up.
The Controller showed no more Error and i read ECO on the screen so i thought i got the Problem solved.
Then i tried an Autodetect and directly got an "Halls Error 2" :|

Then i tested the halls Sensors and every Sensor is working fine.

Please Help guys!!!!!

 

[ccmdr]

Hexa - First I'd check human error parts:

Have you connected PAS? Disconnect PAS from the controller, HALL error yes or no? If no is PAS pinout correct?

If yes, are you absolutely 100% sure the pinout for the Halls are correct? Have a brew and Double check with fresh eyes.

Next is there a possibility that any solder joints are 'shorting'? If your 100% sure have you double checked :wink: ?

Next I'd check your Halls. GRIN Tech have a very simple and handy guide that can weed out the shoddy Hall.

The fact you can get it to go to ECO before Autodetect would hint your not in R113 fault territory .

After the issues with my v3 Cro I'd very much question the QA of the motor internals.ie. My halls weren't soldered, just wire wrapped around the legs and heatshrunk...

 

[Hexa]

I already checked the Halls And every Sensor changes between 0V and 5V so the three sensors are working perfect.
Also i have no Pas installed.
I will make an Video to show you the problem.

There are no Shorts or anything else.
So is the Colour wiring of the Cro diffferent than the wiring described in the Adaptto User manual?
I connected it the following:
Controller Motor
Yellow-Yellow
Green-green
blue-blue

red-red
black-black

 

[ccmdr]

Don't mean to come across patronising, but in most electrical faults especially new build systems, it is generally human error especially the easier the task. Complacency and idle minds .

Pinout is exactly as you say, but make sure you are looking at the connector the correct way for location of pin 1 etc... Or ensure you've got a bright light source to see 1-6 on the 'male' connector. There is the throttle hall too..

Your lucky to get 5v with your Halls both my motors reach 4.2-4.3v max .

It'll be good to see another build via video and to see the fault in action .

*Edit, do you mean you connected the minus (which is the combined all 3 halls negative pin) to the variable voltage output pin (yellow/blue/green) of one of the Halls and you didn't get Halls on startup? It would then fail Autodetect because it would be stuck at i.e 0,0,0 as one or all of the outputs are directed shorted to neutral.

So i connected the Minus of the Halls to Minus of the Battery and powerded my Controller up.
The Controller showed no more Error and i read ECO on the screen so i thought i got the Problem solved.
Then i tried an Autodetect and directly got an "Halls Error 2" :|

 

[Hexa]

No i connected the Minus of the three Hall sensors to Battery Minus, the Minus of my Lipo Battery Pack because i have a bad connection of 13k Ohm on the Halls Connector of the Controller.
I made an Video that shows the failure.
Just follow my Dropbox Link

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ka687qwc53otjw/Adaptto%20Failure.mp4?dl=0

 

[ccmdr]

Video clears up the wiring misconceptions, it's definitely fine . Nice garage btw envious of the available space .

Next up just to clear the air, looks like you've a pot throttle? In calibration 'Throttle linear' are the upper and lower limits set and the system registering it fine, no stuttering?

What happens it you attempt to run on ECO? Does the motor still stutter/stall?

Have you tried manually setting up the phase sequence in the advanced menu and not doing 'Autodetect'? It does look like it can't set the phase and Halls correctly, do you agree?

What firmware are you running, if the manual adjustment works it might be worth updating?

Edit* Infact the more I watch the video the more sure I become that it looks like what happens when you attempt to get the phase/hall sequence on a none self detecting controller. Scrap the throttle idea thats barking up the wrong tree . Play around with WireR, HallOffset and HallReverse I'd almost bet on it . Ensure it's on Sine not Auto too.

 

[Hexa]

Thanks but it is my cellar

I did the throttle calibration and the upper and lower limits are just fine. An indicator for that is that in SLESS Mode the Motor runs just fine.
I just tried every Hall Angle in the Menu but no configuration let the motor spin.
The motor just twitch one time when use the throttle and the Displays directly changes from ECO to !Halls!

This is so confusing. The Sensors are working correctly like i can see in the Adapttos Health Monitor but the motor does not run
The Autodetect should run with the Cromotor without Problems, right?

I bought this Motor from Here and it is used. Can it be that dust in the Motor or the wiring of the Signals (yellow, green, blue) can be the Problem?
The combination of the Hall Signals can be an other than original wiring. Is the wiring of the three Signals of the Halls very important or can they be swapped ?

 

[brooklands]

From the following questions you will see that I am not really an electrician. To be honest I am always happy not having burned down the house when changing a bulb .

You will have to add a resistor between the low end of your throttle and the ground.

This means that I just have to solder a 1 kOhm Resistor into the white wire, right? Or on another position? Can somebody describe please for an absolute idiot?

Can you explain me why the controller does not work with a too low lower voltage?

Ahhhhhhhh, I am going mad!!!!

To make sure that the connectors are not my problem I made the most radical step - I cut them off and soldered the wires directly together. Surprisingly no changes . Again only small reactions on the display when turning the throttle. The high voltage became marginal higher. Now the range was between 0 (throttle closed) and 4.7 V (full throttle).

Next step was to solder a 1 kOhm resistor in the GND line. The low voltage raised from 0 to 0.64 V, high voltage remained at 4.7 V. But with this setup I get no reactions at all in the thr linear panel.

Oh, and yes, I have a cursor in my thr limits panel. But it's (nearly) always at 0 V. Without the resistor you can see some marginal movements. With the resistor installed no movement at all. With my hall throttle the cursor behaves normal and moves between 1.1 an 3.8 V.

Any other ideas but stay with the hall throttle?

 

[korpin]

USB port is for charging your USB devices only, like gopro or phone. It is not a DC/DC converter

To be able to use DC/DC function you must use the coil and this thing is only available on a unlocked controller(loosing warranty) I dont think you will need it anyway. Some folks use it to boil the water or using playstation when out in the field.

but I thought USB port was like 12 volts?....so it IS a converter if it converts 90 volts to 12 or so right?... outlet UBS chargers plug into a transformer FIRST before plugging into wall

so what happens if I enable dc/dc function without coil?...it puts out battery voltage?..so does that mean controller runs off of 90 volts??