AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor

Good onya DAD lol :)
Thats great John. just a thought about the throttle, i like to wind on throttle in medium gear and clkick through the gears as i gain speed, so i sugest looking at alternatives so you can order something (half twist rh throttle) to arive in a week or so when you have everything sorted.
 
Surely letting off the throttle for a few seconds and peddling the chain across to the ring is not going to lose so much speed or time. Or maybe Im wrong.

The first thing I noticed about the wheel/motor was that it almost has brakes on without having brakes when spinning it off the ground. This thing not only heavy is also slowing itself down. I wonder how efficient it will be compared to riding say a carbon road bike that weighs say 8kg.

time will tell - glad I stuck with the tank - its an experiment.
Yes I do have a full handle throttle to use, I might cut it in half as I have seen here somewhere. As I really dont like having a full handle incase I slip.
Just remembered things to ask.

1. This is large bike for me so there is no seat post height for the controller nor is it possible to have it under the down tube as the cables for the deraileur are there.
We are most probably going to put the triangle battery to rest on the downtube and have the controller between the seat down tube and triangle box. I imagine this will limit wind cooling the controller but we really don't another position.

2. For future builds I am already seeing what I need. Do they make controllers of various dimensions as this one is wider than than the width of my battery which looks bad and might be annoying on the legs.

3. I won't have cycle analyst until I am sure I like the ebike thing. Its a big amount more to invest. So can I gauge overheating by touching the controller? For example if the controller is too hot touch it means I am killing it or if it is warm I am killing it?

Thanks.
 
IMO the controller will be fine if its not covered up. Think of it as a car amp, they are OK under seats etc but if wrapped up they would get hot. And controller over cables is OK IMO also , I did this on my first build, it rests on the little brackets that hold the 3 cables. CA v3 and throttle sounds like wise decisions.
 
She ain't finished totally but today was my first ride on the bike. Was excellent fun. Rode around the block about 10 times. Yeah!!!!!!!!

First test was hill climbing and yes it is easy to climb with a motor up steep hills than without on roads. Just have to peddle heaps to keep her from getting to slow. so I am happy about that as I don't have to peddle at all on flats or on mild up hills.

We had dramas with controller position. there was no space left in the triangle not on under the seat and because of the derailleur cables not under the bottom tube. This left two last options. Get a rear rack which I was against because I might aswell have not got the triangle battery. So that left one last position on top of the top tube near the steering wheel. It doesn't get in the way of the knees and now that there is padding in the battery bag it's the same width as the bag anyway.
It all looks really messy right now.

Few things to do with time.

In order of urgency.
1. Disguise/camouflage: I am scared to ride it anywhere far from home right now as it looks like a motorised bike with a thousand wires sticking out.
Will spray paint the bag silver and wrap cables up - will be going for the silver look matching the tanks frame and new rear wheel.
2. Must stick more padding - some thick rubber on the point where the battery rests on the bracket we built as on the road all is good, but going into a driveway off the road will be a pain to keep slowing down for.
3. New disc pads.

Oh totally forgot must find out what type of fuse this thing has on it. Do you guys carry spare fuses? incase one blows in the boonies?
 
good to hear you got a ride :)
sounds like you have it all planed out prety good.
stuff like spare fuses well when testing you might find a spare usefull, but once you have it dialed it should be fine and if i was stuck with no fuse more than 1km from home i would chck some random wire in there and legal mode it home ;)
 
Nothing like that first ride eh? I wouldn't hesitate to get a rack and put the controller there. Crosswise, right on the front of it behind the seat can leave most of it available for cargo.

Or a smaller seatpost rack can work good to just carry the controller. But it's not cruicial where you carry it. I just like to find one place or another on the bike that doesn't get soaked if I ride though a puddle. Top of a solid deck rack works good. So does near the handlebars if you have a fender.

Controllers can get splashed and be ok, I just don't like to put them where they might get extra soaked.
 
dogman I think the wet factor came into mind aswell.

The first ride is pretty special yeah almost a romantic LOL.

seriously though. This morning I went for an amazing mountain bike ride and I know that the ebike thing is not the same. A 10 kg bike handles very differently especially over obstacles and tight turns etc. But even though I may have come to the ebike thing to try to extend the mountain bike experience I discovered another thing.

There is a wonderful feeling going at the speed of peddling as fast as you can on flats without peddling. You can save your breath and energy to peddle the bloody hills! so yeah still riding and still loving it.

Another part of it is the interactions with the people around me. Since I did a lot of laps I saw the same couples walking along about 5 times and others that didnt think that to get off the road out the way of a bicycle.

anyway way guys tomorrow I look forward to going for a longer ride and Im scared to say that I will be a regualr around here now. As I can see already how much I love it and how I can tinker to get this even better.

Thanks for all the help.

ps this forum post has changed names but it will continue to me my blog post of sorts. If that ok .... cheers.
 
Mind blowing first real ride. Ride around home like it was going out of fashion.

I am scared about the future because the: Whats

1. perfection must have full suspension. My bike only cut out when I went over a bump. About 4 times I had to diconnect the power and reconnect.

2. What's the biggest cog for the front Derailleur made? As today I was frustrated trying to help out my motor.

3. who knows I just had the best time of my life.
 
537766_10151676691659845_127761777_n.jpg
A bit of sliver paint makes it look sexy I think?
 
Check amazon for crank sets. They have pretty good prices. I ended up buying a road bike crankset to keep up with one of my motors. I believe the big chainring is a 58 tooth count. You need to determine what kind of bottom bracket you have first be it sealed or cupped and whether it has a square tapered axle or cassette. On some of the crank arms, the bolt that holds the crank onto the bottom bracket axle, sometimes is made to thread into the crank arm as well as the axle. Sometimes the bolt just threads into or onto the axle. My crankset was around $25.00 with free super saver shipping.
 
tthe end of everything civilzed.

Quite a few times power out. Just replugged and continued.
Many times power out re unplug and plug in again. pop after 5 seconds.
Took it upstairs tried again/

POP big fireworks out of the shitty tube. what the hell thats the one my dad said will pop and it did. dam. I was enjoying riding so much now I just dont know it all sounds like a waste of time.
 
Looks like the wire shorted out against something. hard to tell, but a short circuit that may have melted the fuse holder. the burn mark and the exposed wire look like the results of wires shorting out.

those glase tube fuses suck. The glass tube may be rated at 30 amps, but often the holder isn't. you're better off going with an automotive style blade fuse, and either a new fuse holder, or just use female spade terminals pushed onto the fuse blaades.
 
Is that wire going to the charger or the motor or the battery to the controller? I've had that kind of kit before and I've never had a fuse between the motor and controller or the battery and the controller for that matter. The plug that comes in the kit is supposed to be used with the charger that comes in the kit not with the motor and not with the battery to controller. The plug is only supposed to be used if you don't already have a charger and need to connect the kit charger to your battery pack for charging. From the picture it looks like you have that wire connected to the output on your battery correct? That fuse is meant for a charging current not a discharging current. It's too weak to handle what the motor and controller are pulling from the battery pack.
 
lbz5mc12 said:
Is that wire going to the charger or the motor or the battery to the controller? I've had that kind of kit before and I've never had a fuse between the motor and controller or the battery and the controller for that matter. The plug that comes in the kit is supposed to be used with the charger that comes in the kit not with the motor and not with the battery to controller. The plug is only supposed to be used if you don't already have a charger and need to connect the kit charger to your battery pack for charging. From the picture it looks like you have that wire connected to the output on your battery correct? That fuse is meant for a charging current not a discharging current. It's too weak to handle what the motor and controller are pulling from the battery pack.
Click to expand...

The red wire with the fuse blown joins the battery and controller.
My dad said that the whole set up looks wrong, because the wires coming out of the battery are thick and then join to thin?

Let me explain a bit more about the ride I went on. Might offer light on why a problem happened.

1. I rode for about 2 hours that day. With about an hour break in the middle.
Maybe the battery went flat? I was reading 3 little lights on the throttle which stayed on full.

2. I dropped the bike on its side once, it worked after that.

3. I went on to a rough patch, it seems when I hit a bump the power cuts for a split second.

4. Later in the evening, the power cut out completely with no apparant reason. Maybe ran out of power? I unplugged reconnected, it would cut out again after reving higher.

5. Last time I tried just outside my house as I was going to call it a night. I connected the wire and bit of fireworks shot out of the side of the bag.

Now, the instructions to putting the wires together as I said earlier were almost non existant. We kind of worked it out by trial an error.

Seriously, do I need that fuse at all? How dangerous would it be without a fuse?
The xlr connects to the batter charger which also has a little fan.

Im confused as I didn't see any other way that connected the kit together.
 
if you have a lifepo4 pack with BMS it may be cutting out because the pack is not charged and balanced. that is a pretty big controller for 500W. sounds like you have bad connections where the wires are crimped and connect through those spade type fittings and you may need to upgrade them. and now shorted something too.
 
No that wire was not supposed to be used to connect the battery to the controller. If I remember correctly your controller should have had a white 2 prong connector for the battery. What you usually have to do is to go to a local hardware or small electronics shop and buy a set of male and female connectors. Your best bet would be to get a set of either andersons connectors or bullet connectors. You strip the tips of the wires back and crimp/clamp on the connectors. You need to make sure you only do one wire at a time keeping the other wires individually taped off so you don't accidentally cross them and zappo. I personally have never had a fuse between my controller and battery and I've never had any problems.
 
Amazingly the fuse hadn't blown!

We noticed that xlr bolt that melted matched right with the hole in the red positive spot. Dad's theory is that when I dropped the bike the bolt pushed deep into the wire, but then we couldn't explain the short. He put the meter on the outside of the xlr and it was reading a current. Opened up the xlr and discovered very dodgy work inside not related to any damage I could have done as this part is encased in solid metal. Doing more reading on that point where whoever overtightened the hell out of the clamp or whatever you call it we realised this is where negative is. As that clamp then also joins where outer case screws down.

So guys does sound right?

68594_10151678606914845_1870559846_n.jpg


Also don't have time now to get to shop as they are shut - but we stuck a 15a blade / spade fuse. Checked it briefly and it all works. I haven't checked the battery charges yet.

My question is there a volt measurement for fuses? If I should be using the 30A is there a volt type or something?

p.s. I am so lucky my face wasn't up close when that went off. I am also lucky that it didn't burn into the battery but spat out the open bit of zipper.
 
lbz5mc12 said:
No that wire was not supposed to be used to connect the battery to the controller. If I remember correctly your controller should have had a white 2 prong connector for the battery. What you usually have to do is to go to a local hardware or small electronics shop and buy a set of male and female connectors. Your best bet would be to get a set of either andersons connectors or bullet connectors. You strip the tips of the wires back and crimp/clamp on the connectors. You need to make sure you only do one wire at a time keeping the other wires individually taped off so you don't accidentally cross them and zappo. I personally have never had a fuse between my controller and battery and I've never had any problems.
Click to expand...

I trust you on this one, I would however like more of the other guys to +1 this. Vote of confidence?

Also if this is a kit I don't understand why I still would need to go to another store to buy more parts. The simple booklet explained nothing about buying more parts. Just had a few pictures with lots of detail missing. From memory there were only two other spots we didnt use - 1. I presume the pas (not attached for now) and the other the brake cut off.
 
not sure about your kit.

i think email thr pictures of dodgee plug and blown fuse to the seller of the kit. get some anderson plugs and replace the charger plug, and the controller plug. ppl say the low voltage fuses used at higher voltage create some heat and can melt the holder of the fuse, to fix that use a blade fuse that's out in the open so it can stay cool, away from wires etc if it does get hot, or use a sand filled fuse so the heat is disipated, or use a circuit breaker so you can reset it if it goes off http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SZ6000&CATID=88&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=1030#4

i dont uses fuses or circut breakers between the battery and controller.
 
I researched all the products you have talked about. I will go ahead with them if it blows up again.

For now, we have repaired everything.

1. changed to a blade fuse (only 25A around the house) so dunno if it will last.)
2. repaired dodgy wiring and will make sure the xlr plug never comes close to the other wires.

After many emails - The seller offered to send a replacement plug. Personally don't know if it is worth it.

What I noticed during all my riding that the controller never got hot or almost barely warm. I want to wrap a thin piece of gray cotton around all the middle section of the bike to unify it all more.

Question 1. Do you think it is alright for the controller to have thin material over it? I can still feel the heat of it easily while riding.

I noticed that a singlet fits the triangle perfectly. Will keep the beer logo side on the inside. Singha!
:lol:

Awesome ride last time can't wait to do it again.

[youtube]HTGKOXONfxc[/youtube]
[youtube]HQsfuJlD-Ew[/youtube]

And now I remember clearly that I started having problems with it cutting out before I dropped the bike. As this last sad part was in the first part of my ride.

[youtube]gq8paOEkV80[/youtube]
 
DOUBLE TRIPPLE WHAMY, FROCK ME
Click to expand...
lol
iwouldn't worry too mucha bout the controller getting hot. just check it after you go slow up a hill if you cover it. that will be the conditions for most current draw and least cooling. if you can hold your hand on it then its ok.
I dare say that is more than 500watts , maby 500watts continuos rated and 750/1k up hills/off the line. check the motor heat periodically after going up hills. if its quiet hot to touch(uncomfortable to hold hand on it) on the outside its probly at its limit thermaly inside.
sounds like you were having fun there :)
 
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