Crystalyte Hall sensor replacement

Electro

10 µW
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Messages
5
Location
Beaverton, OR
Greetings -
Has anyone out there actually replaced a hall sensor in a Crystalyte motor? If so, do you have a part number or source for the sensor? The sensors in my motor are labeled "40A" and do not have a manufacturer indicated. I have been able to find a Honeywell hall effect sensor that MIGHT be a replacement. Honeywell's part number is "SS40A" Here's a link to the datasheet: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/68726.pdf . If anyone knows where to get the right one, please help! Thanks in advance.
Mike H.
 
I think they will fine assuming what you have is operating within "4.5 Vdc to 24.0 Vdc is acceptable" you are probably operating at 2v to 4 v
 
Thank You Ypedal! That's exactly what I was looking for. I'll post an update once I get the sensor & install it.
Thanks again for the very helpful information!!!
 
I think those things are epoxied in. If you heat the epoxy to around 100C, it gets soft enough that you can dig it out with a small screwdriver or pick.

Make sure the new hall sensor does not protrude beyond the stator poles or it might drag on the magnets (bad).

Also make sure the new sensor is facing the same direction as the old one. Upside down will reverse the output (also bad).
 
Hi Electro,
I have just finished replacing my hall sensors in a clite 408.
As fechter said a little heat (I used a hair dryer) will soften the epoxy to remove the old ones.
I was lucky the old leads wearn't damaged so i just removed the new leads from the new sensors and solderd to existing leads then i used some liquid gasket to cover the connections and any damage to wire insulation.
I used 5 minute marine epoxy (not effected by water/moisture) to set the new sensors
The motor has only done about 200km since but is working fine.

hope this helps you out
 
I had started a thread over on the general discussion page about this same thing. I'll just switch over to this thread.

I have a hall sensor problem also. I sure am glad you guys are a bit ahead of me on replacing one. I am just about to order one (Thanks for the tip on where to get it.)

29A, Thanks for posting the details on how you replaced yours. Really helpful. I was wondering what I would use to heat the old epoxy. Good to know that a hair dryer will work.

I just unbolted the motor plate. Haven't actualy removed it. It doesn't want to slip over the axle due to the wiring insulation being thick there. Do I just go ahead and force it out and risk breaking the wires or should I go ahead and cut away the heat shrink first and worry about re-taping it up later? Or, might it be possible to just pull up on the insulation and get it out of the way enough to get the plate off? I know how delicate these sensor wires are and I hate to break them. Any tips on the best technique to use would be helpful.

Electro, When you get to yours, I would appreciate details also. I'll do the same just in case I finish it before you do.

Thanks to all for the advice.
 
that SS40A works just fine.

i recently replaced all 3 hall sensors on a Crystalyte. all 3 failed for some unknown reason. i suspect that it was some cheap Chinese replacement part. they didn't all fail at the same time. first one failed and then while testing the other 2 failed one by one.

i used a heat gun to loosen up the epoxy and then i used a small screwdriver as a chisel to pry it loose.

when gluing them in place make sure that they are all oriented the same way. ie lettering on the inside or outside.

image201.jpg
 
I had to do this .. what a pain in the @SS

2hxajom.jpg


my Motor wire broke when my motor spinned on me when i wasn't using drop outs.. & top it of it blew the hall sensor ..

i had to open the motor twice the fix the wires .. but it had been working well since ..

i also upgraded the motor phase wires to 12 guage v.s. 14 guage .. ..

-steveo
 
The SS41 is the newer version of the SS40A. The specs look about the same, so it shoud work fine. The SS41 is used in the Puma motor.
 
Currently building my own controller for bicycle hub BLDC motor, and I think I shorted the signal line with the 5v line on the Hall's. So thanks everyone for giving their tips in this thread on replacing hall sensors, I'm far from the only one!! I had just put in an order for the SS40A's when I read that it's the standard for bikes. The dead ones are 40A's as well, but no mention of Honeywell on them (package too small probably). I tried out a proportional one and what a waste of time and $5.
 
Hi,

I tried to measure some things on my Crystalyte Controller and unfortunately damaged my Hall-Sensors. Now I took my motor apart and found out that there are the Type "41F-837" built in.

Now my Question:
Does anyone know a equivalent for this typ of Hall-Sensor because I could not find a datasheet for this ?
Is is a unipolar or bipolar or what ever ?

Best regards
Yours Mahony

 
Hi dnmun,

I've seen the part you are mentioning about
nearly cross over the street at "Conrads" :)

I will check that part out and tell you the
result because these are cheap parts to get.

CU Mahony
 

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Hi dnmun,

unfortunately the parts where out of stock.
So I have to order them online.

CU next year
Yours Mahony
 
Hi Guys,

I'm back and now I got some Hall-Sensors from my favorite supplier.
Next try is to install them to my Motor.

This is only for them who are interested into details :)

CU Mahony
 

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Hi Guys,

now it's done. The motor is running again :)
Thanx to http://www.electricwheels.de (Reiner)

He is realy a cute guy who helped me so much
with my problems I had. And he is realy the
best supplier I could find in Germany / Austria
concerning Crystalyte-Motors and -Controllers.

Mybe he has other brands on stock, but I'm not
shure.

See my Pictures I attached :)

CU Mahony
 
10711097_10152726756774845_7738693320616827046_n.jpg


It's hard to see in my lousy pictures how the original colours went so made this diagram.

1979853_10152727008904845_1850332521271435578_n.jpg


I'm giving it my best shot at replacing but will go sensorless if I fail, I've got a vented motor and the wiring has a mm of space from being ripped off again.

10500379_10152539574344845_4210987537930637479_n.jpg
 
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