That bike looks like the Puma fixies that were common in my area years ago— zero offset fork, steep head angle. They're not good-handling bikes even at pedal speeds. If you’re a casual rider, like I guess from what you say, you deserve a more conventional and neutral handling bike. Even a beach cruiser would be a vastly better bike to convert.
Fork issues, motor recommendations, and other newbie questions/issues
- Thread starter Kemosabe70
- Start date
If your needs are for torque (quicker startups from a stop, etc) rather than speed, then the slowest wind they have available will be better, as long as that will still get you the top speed you want. Both the 10t and 12t will easily go over 20MPH in 700c wheel size with a 52v battery, so speed shouldn't be a problem.Kemosabe70 said:
This comparison between the 10t and 12t in a 700c wheel, 52v battery, 20A controller (so about 1000w), shows you get about 24MPH with the 12t, and about 27mph with the 10t, with the 12t having more torque.
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=MMAC12T&batt=B5213_GA&hp=0&axis=mph&motor_b=MMAC10T&batt_b=B5213_GA&hp_b=0&bopen=true&wheel=700c&wheel_b=700c
This shows that at 20MPH, the 12t is slightly more efficient (barely) than the 10T, so you might get slightly better range out of it. Probably moreso the more often you have to startup from a stop, and less difference the longer your straight steady runs are.
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=MMAC12T&batt=B5213_GA&hp=0&axis=mph&motor_b=MMAC10T&batt_b=B5213_GA&hp_b=0&bopen=true&wheel=700c&wheel_b=700c&mass=150&mass_b=150&autothrot=true&autothrot_b=true&throt_b=67.6&throt=78.4
This shows that at a startup from a stop, acceleration is higher with the 12t than the 10t. If you move the vertical dotted lines to new positions at various speeds, you can see the change in accelertation as you get faster. (acceleration is the top right number in the bottom boxes of numbers).
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=MMAC12T&batt=B5213_GA&hp=0&axis=mph&motor_b=MMAC10T&batt_b=B5213_GA&hp_b=0&bopen=true&wheel=700c&wheel_b=700c&mass=150&mass_b=150&autothrot=false&autothrot_b=false&throt_b=100&throt=100
The v2 is the basic version, which will monitor power usage, battery level, etc., and can provide throttle override function to do speed / power /current limiting, but doesn't do the advanced stuff v3 does, like PAS cadence or torque sensors (to control the motor without throttle), direct throttle modulation for the various limiting functions, temperature monitoring, etc. You can read about the differences on the ebikes.ca info pages for each one, if you like, or ask specific questions here.
If you don't need any of the v3-specific features, the v2 works just fine, if you do want a power usage monitor (not necessary, but can be useful for troubleshooting; there are much cheaper wattmeters if that is all you want it for, but they have none of the other features the CA does).
Grin has the GMAC kits, but those have no internal freewheel/clutch like the MAC does, so if it is not powered on and a little power applied (even when not using the motor to move with), it will have a fair bit of drag trying to pedal it, especially with a singlespeed bike. As long as you use the Cycle analyst v3 to setup the throttle to always have a little bit of throttle going to the motor to keep it "free", then that's not an issue...except if you ever run out of battery, or if something fails in the system.
The advantage is the GMAC doesn't have the vulnerability of the clutch to break, so it could be a bit more reliable than the regular MAC.
The GMAC has a temperature sensor that the CAv3 can monitor and rollback power if it gets too hot, too, though that's unlikely in your usage scenario.
The GMAC can do regen braking, whcih the MAC can't because of it's freewheeling clutch. But you don't need that. (you could use it to get a bit of extra range, a few percent at most, but I don't think you need that either).
Regarding throttles, you can get one of those from anywhere. If the kit you order has Higo connectors, then even Amazon has Higo-connectorized throttles of various types (and has other connector types as well if you need them). I recommend getting one that has at least 1/2-rotation
Typically a 12FET can have a 20-30A current limit, which would be ok for the MAC if you're not running it at full power all the time (whcih you won't, if you're not climbing hills all the time or hauling big heavy unaerodynamic loads, etc.). My guess is you'll use around 300-500w or so most of the time for your usage scenario, which at 52v is only about 10A or less, so even a little 6FET would work. More power means quicker acceleration. The simulator can be used to compare that, too.
For instance, this uses the 12t, witha 10A vs a 20A controller, and shows about doulbe the accleration for the 20A vs the 10A.
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=MMAC12T&batt=B5213_GA&hp=0&axis=mph&motor_b=MMAC12T&batt_b=B5213_GA&hp_b=0&bopen=true&wheel=700c&wheel_b=700c&mass=150&mass_b=150&autothrot=false&autothrot_b=false&throt_b=100&throt=100&cont=cust_10_20_0.03_V
Most of the stuff from Grin is more expensive than elsewhere, because you're also paying for potentially better support if you have the need, and R&D to make new and better ebike stuff. Sometiems you're also paying for better build quality; I don't have experience with the GMAC so couldn't say on that one--you'd have to look around the forum to see what those with one say about them.
I've been both impressed and disappointed by various Grin stuff. The Grinfineon controllers disappointed me, though they aren't bad, just not as good as I expected. The Satiator charger impressed me for the last five years. The Cycle Analyst impresses me, in all the various versions I have...though it doesn't do things exactly the way I want them, it works well enough for most purposes, and allows one to do things not possible with some systems without it.
If I were building a bike to do what you want to do, I'd do it as I answer below:
I'd use the 12t.
If not using the battery to it's max capacity very often, no display is needed. If using it's capacity a fair bit, a wattmeter of some type would be a useful item; the CAv2 works but even something like the Turnigy Watt Meter or any of the cheap wattmeters works, and I'd probably just use that.
No...if it's generic controller with no settings or programmability. But if it's a controller that does have internal settings and has a display option to access them, you require the display specific to that controller to do that.
For instance, if you get like a KT type controller, etc., that supports PAS, or assist levels, you need the display to be able to change to anything other than the default level, or to setup what those levels do, etc.
If you get something like the basic Grinfineons, or other types like that, they dont' have a display option, or assist levels, etc. They just are what they are, which makes for a simple system, but less options. Most likely, you'd be fine with just the basic stuff like that.
Only if you need the potential extra power you might be able to get out of it, since you don't need it for regen braking. I myself would just use the regular MAC for your needs.
Kemosabe70
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amberwolf said:
goatman
10 MW
I have CA V2.3 and V3, I prefer the V2.3, its simpler but I need to bring 3 wires from the handlebars to controller, CA3 only has 1 wire coming from your handle bar to controller, throttle and brakes plug into CA V3
I still think if you want to save your batteries don't go over 30 amps on your controller but you can set the max amps with the CA V2.3. Reliability and ease of install and cosmetically, Phaserunner L10 w/V3 but its on back order
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/controllers/phaserunner-l10.html#
I still think if you want to save your batteries don't go over 30 amps on your controller but you can set the max amps with the CA V2.3. Reliability and ease of install and cosmetically, Phaserunner L10 w/V3 but its on back order
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/controllers/phaserunner-l10.html#
Higher current will give you better accleration...but 52v x 40A is about 2kw, which is generally more than the geared hubs are designed to take, at least continuously, and will heat them up quickly if you use taht much current frequently or continously, potentially overheating and damaging them. (and if the power is slammed on rather than ramped up a bit, it's hard on the clutch/gears in the motor).Kemosabe70 said:
Geared hubs cannot shed heat nearly as well as DD hubs, which is not an issue if you're using them within their limits. But if you are pushing them extra hard, it makes a great deal of difference to their longevity and/or usefulness.
Since the MAC type hub is generally a 1000w motor (some have run them higher; you can look around at the various threads for that if you want to see their results), it's safer to use a 20A controller at most for one...but it will only have about half the acceleration of a 40A controller.
I doubt that you'll need that much acceleration, though, depending on the takeoff times you're after. You can see in the simulator how quickly it will reach 20mph from a stop, if you incrementally move the vertical dotted lines in the graph as I noted in the previous post, and note the acceleration rates as you go, you can guesstimate your total acceleration time.
If you need superfast acceleration, you need high torque, which generally equates to high currents (and thus wattage), but it also makes it harder to control the lowspeed range of the bike. And if you have cadence-based PAS and "generic" controllers (rather than a CAv3, etc), then the assist is only on/off, so you get either full power or nothing when pedalling. The throttle would give full control, but will not have much physical travel range vs total power range, and might be twitchy trying to get just a little bit of assist, though I don't think you'd get wheelies with it.
I can't tell how smooth it will work until you actually build it and ride it. It's up to you and what you want out of it, but I suspect a 20A controller would be fine for your needs. 30A if you really think you need it. 40A is quite a bit for a "commuter".
As I noted previously with CrazyBike2, I got about 4 seconds 0-20MPH acceleration using about 4kw, basically two 40A controllers / motors. CB2 was with me on it around 400lbs+, unloaded.
If your setup and you is half that weight, then half that power would probably get you about the same acceleration rate. (depends on the differences in actual torque for the power used that you get with your larger wheel diameter and the geared hub vs the DD hubs I used).
Another thing is: what's your battery designed for? If it's meant for 40A or more, then you could use that size controller. If it's meeant for less, you should use a controller that's less than or maybe equal to that. Otherwise you risk damaging the BMS from overheating the FETs, or experiencing cutouts from the BMS shutting off to protect against overcurrent, if it's designed to do that. If the cells themselves are not meant for that kind of current, then you risk aging them faster than usual as well.
Depends on what it says on their site for the one you're looking at. Most of the stuff people post about from there are generics like the Grinfineons and "infineons" are, but I don't know what they are selling right now with whichever specific kit you're looking at.
There's a lot of kinds of PAS cadence sensors, and the magnets for one don't have to go on a ring on the crankshaft, they can go on the chainring (or spider) itself, either gluing them on or just sticking them on if it's steel. The sensor might need a custom bracket depending on your BB shell and BB lockrings.
But you will need a controller that supports PAS, or a CAv3, to use it. And you need to decide how you want the PAS to work before you decide on which option there.
PAS can work as on/off, at whatever assist level you chose, potentially with the throttle overriding that, if the controller worsk taht way (most of the ones I've dealt with do this).
Or it can work so that the faster you pedal, the more power you get (basically a throttle controled by cadence). That's how I use the CAv3 on the SB Cruiser trike.
Or it can work so that the throttle only works if you are pedalling, and the pedalling itself doesn't actually make the motor do anything--it just activates the throttle.
Each of those depends on what hardware you have (and in some cases how it is setup or programmed, for those that *can* be).
I don't know, but you should be able to look them up on the Alexrims site. I would guess without looking that CNC means they're machined for rim brakes (which will still work fine with disc), and DISC means they can't be used with rim brakes but only disc. Dunno about the DH and DM part; the numbers are probably the width, perhaps the model number. There are very likely threads mentioning each of those models wtih more info if you need it.
Depends on what they use to build the wheel. You'd want to ask them what spokes they use and gauge--the thinner the spokes the better the wheel build will be, generally, as they can be properly tensioned for the rim strength. The problem with most OEM wheels is they use 12g spokes but rims that can't handle that kind of tension, so the rims fail. Lots of threads and posts about that whole issue--just look up "spoke*".
If the place you order from builds using 14g or 15g spokes, like your regular bike wheels use, you'll probably be fine. If they use 12g, then unless the rim they use is actually designed for them, it'll eventually have problems--the cheaper the rim, the sooner those may happen (like Powercircle, etc). 13/14g butted spokes should work too; that's what I have on my trike wheels, and they take a beating, but they're using heavier duty rims than most of the OEM stuff.
I would guess that you'd save on shipping and kit costs with just a motor/controller/etc and no rim, but I don't know if it's enough to pay for a local wheel build.
Kemosabe70
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My BMS is rated for 50a.
I would like the PAS to work like as you said “the faster you pedal, the more power you get”
How can I achieve that?
I think em3ev mentions their controllers are compatible with CA v3
I would like the PAS to work like as you said “the faster you pedal, the more power you get”
How can I achieve that?
I think em3ev mentions their controllers are compatible with CA v3
goatman
10 MW
you can "on the fly" adjust PAS with a potentiometer
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ca-accessories/aux-input/ca3-aux-al.html
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ca-accessories/aux-input/ca3-aux-al.html
Kemosabe70
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goatman said:
I guess that would work w the CA 2 or CA 3, seems really cool
The "on the fly" adjustment is not what you are after.
That is so you can change a setting (whichever one you've assigned the aux input to) whenever you like while riding.
You can use it for adjusting stuff like power limits, etc., but it's not going to make the PAS control the amount of power--to do that simply requires choosing the proper PAS settings (and other related settings as needed).
Also, if you want to use the CA to modulate the PAS, you have to use the v3. As I said before, the v2 does not have those features.
Some of the middrives like the BBSxx do it, AFAIK.
Not sure what else. I'm sure others here know which ones do this. (I wish we had a listing of what controllers have what features....but it would be obsolete before the first page was typed up)
The CAv3 has settings in there to do this, in the PAS setup menus. It's relatively simple once you know what you want it to do and have gone thru the menus to set it up, after reading the manual/etc to determine what to set up and how...but it is a complex set of interacting settings that you may not have to understand, but you do have to set it all up. (or have someone else do that, like the place selling it to you. )
If you use the CAv3, i would recommend telling the place you buy from *exactly* what you want your system to do, and have them set it up for you, tuned to your specific needs. And I would recommend having the USB-serial cable so you can back up it's settings to the computer in case you ever need them in the future (though you can manually go thru all the menus and write them down or take pictures, instead).
Otherwise you will need to go thru the entire setup process from beginning to end via the manual (and the Grin videos if you like), to make sure you have every menu setup as you need them to for what you want it to do. If you don't set it all up, then various settings that interact with each other will cause it to do things you don't expect or want.
If you want to explore the way mine is setup, to get a general idea of which settings I"m using (for a starting point for yours in the PAS menus), I can post the settings file, and you can download the CA setup program from Grin to see the settings in the file (without having a CA).
Some have the CADP connector built in, so work directly with the CA "DP" version, the rest you just use the CA "SA" version with it's own external shunt and wheel speed sensor, or use the CA "DP" version with the separate external shunt and speed sensor.
The DP version you have to be able to measure the internal controller shunt's resistance to calibrate the readings for that controller. (rarely, lke with the Grinfineons, the shunt resistance is printed on the controller from the seller) The SA version uses the number printed on the external shunt, so it's simpler.
That is so you can change a setting (whichever one you've assigned the aux input to) whenever you like while riding.
You can use it for adjusting stuff like power limits, etc., but it's not going to make the PAS control the amount of power--to do that simply requires choosing the proper PAS settings (and other related settings as needed).
Also, if you want to use the CA to modulate the PAS, you have to use the v3. As I said before, the v2 does not have those features.
Some controllers do this; I don't know which ones specifically, though I think the KT Kunteng series with the OpenSource Firmware OSFW can do it; you'd have to look at the thread(s) by Casainho, Stancecoke, etc for that. I don't know details about it.Kemosabe70 said:
Some of the middrives like the BBSxx do it, AFAIK.
Not sure what else. I'm sure others here know which ones do this. (I wish we had a listing of what controllers have what features....but it would be obsolete before the first page was typed up)
The CAv3 has settings in there to do this, in the PAS setup menus. It's relatively simple once you know what you want it to do and have gone thru the menus to set it up, after reading the manual/etc to determine what to set up and how...but it is a complex set of interacting settings that you may not have to understand, but you do have to set it all up. (or have someone else do that, like the place selling it to you. )
If you use the CAv3, i would recommend telling the place you buy from *exactly* what you want your system to do, and have them set it up for you, tuned to your specific needs. And I would recommend having the USB-serial cable so you can back up it's settings to the computer in case you ever need them in the future (though you can manually go thru all the menus and write them down or take pictures, instead).
Otherwise you will need to go thru the entire setup process from beginning to end via the manual (and the Grin videos if you like), to make sure you have every menu setup as you need them to for what you want it to do. If you don't set it all up, then various settings that interact with each other will cause it to do things you don't expect or want.
If you want to explore the way mine is setup, to get a general idea of which settings I"m using (for a starting point for yours in the PAS menus), I can post the settings file, and you can download the CA setup program from Grin to see the settings in the file (without having a CA).
All controllers are compatible with any CA, though it may require adapting plugs/etc for some of them.
Some have the CADP connector built in, so work directly with the CA "DP" version, the rest you just use the CA "SA" version with it's own external shunt and wheel speed sensor, or use the CA "DP" version with the separate external shunt and speed sensor.
The DP version you have to be able to measure the internal controller shunt's resistance to calibrate the readings for that controller. (rarely, lke with the Grinfineons, the shunt resistance is printed on the controller from the seller) The SA version uses the number printed on the external shunt, so it's simpler.
Kemosabe70
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Some questions:
In one of your threads, you state that you think a 135mm motor is too wide for your frame. This is a 135mm motor.
As a note, some singlespeed frames are only 110mm, and if yours is then 25mm is a lot to coldset, and is going to leave your dropouts non-parallel, so you'd need to cold set those, too, back to parallel so that mounting hardware and such fits properly.
What does "Current rating: Current Rating 30A" mean, with a qty of 1 and price of zero? I ask because you have a 40A controller right above that.
The throttle you can get to match the connector on the controller later, from just about anywhere.
The PAS, if you use this controller, will have to be done with a CAv3, or else change the controller to something else, unless this is a type that directly supports it and has a connector for it. Or use external electronics that convert the PAS to a throttle signal, like this or other projects:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=104143
In one of your threads, you state that you think a 135mm motor is too wide for your frame. This is a 135mm motor.
As a note, some singlespeed frames are only 110mm, and if yours is then 25mm is a lot to coldset, and is going to leave your dropouts non-parallel, so you'd need to cold set those, too, back to parallel so that mounting hardware and such fits properly.
What does "Current rating: Current Rating 30A" mean, with a qty of 1 and price of zero? I ask because you have a 40A controller right above that.
The throttle you can get to match the connector on the controller later, from just about anywhere.
The PAS, if you use this controller, will have to be done with a CAv3, or else change the controller to something else, unless this is a type that directly supports it and has a connector for it. Or use external electronics that convert the PAS to a throttle signal, like this or other projects:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=104143
You seem to be in a hurry. That is not necessarily a bad thing, some people make good decisions when they are in a hurry.
HOWEVER - Your first purchase included a crap battery which was a waste of money. Then, you paired that with the WRONG motor, mounted in the WRONG place, on the WRONG bike.
At least you bought your replacement battery from a "salesman". Great. Being one yourself, and I come from 5 generations of "salesmen", you should know that a "salesman" is a glorified professional liar, also known as a BS artist.
Paul and Justin are not salesman. They are reputable vendors who do good business. I can provide a LOT more clarity on this point but that would need to be done thru an alternate communication method. PM me if desired.
There are many things you should know which you do not.
I would recommend further research. I would recommend spending some HOURS with the simulator at grin, and investigating many options. I would recommend you balance your needs, especially speed versus range, as one tends to cancel the other. Spend much time at all on top speed with your current chosen parts, and you are not likely to get 30 mile range.
Why do you say you want to travel with no effort yet insist on pedelec control?
Have you looked at other builds with your apparently preferred type of bike as a base? Have you noticed that very few here are using 700C rims, and much more importantly, do you know WHY?
Have you looked at Chas58's build?
Would you be interested in details on a build which cruises at 18mph, has done so for approximately 15,000 miles, and achieves 30 miles of range, with minimal pedaling, on a 700C rim, and has run flawlessly for over 5 years?
HOWEVER - Your first purchase included a crap battery which was a waste of money. Then, you paired that with the WRONG motor, mounted in the WRONG place, on the WRONG bike.
At least you bought your replacement battery from a "salesman". Great. Being one yourself, and I come from 5 generations of "salesmen", you should know that a "salesman" is a glorified professional liar, also known as a BS artist.
Paul and Justin are not salesman. They are reputable vendors who do good business. I can provide a LOT more clarity on this point but that would need to be done thru an alternate communication method. PM me if desired.
There are many things you should know which you do not.
I would recommend further research. I would recommend spending some HOURS with the simulator at grin, and investigating many options. I would recommend you balance your needs, especially speed versus range, as one tends to cancel the other. Spend much time at all on top speed with your current chosen parts, and you are not likely to get 30 mile range.
Why do you say you want to travel with no effort yet insist on pedelec control?
Have you looked at other builds with your apparently preferred type of bike as a base? Have you noticed that very few here are using 700C rims, and much more importantly, do you know WHY?
Have you looked at Chas58's build?
Would you be interested in details on a build which cruises at 18mph, has done so for approximately 15,000 miles, and achieves 30 miles of range, with minimal pedaling, on a 700C rim, and has run flawlessly for over 5 years?
Kemosabe70
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Amber- I believe the current rating for the controller is 30a although it says 40a, the website gave me a choice of 30a or 40a for the current rating after selecting the controller, so I went for 30a.
I will try to put some time aside to take off the rear wheel and measure today.
I will try to put some time aside to take off the rear wheel and measure today.
Setting aside torque for acceleration for the moment,amberwolf said:
looking at torque required for steep hill climbing at lower speed ranges, and also carrying heavier loads
requires **much** higher amps throughput because voltages are so much lower, right?
Yes, CA3 OTP protecting the motor, limiting current based on heat buildup
But the controller's current output capacity may need to get up to **very high** for that use case, right?
I found a Sevcon GEN4 36/48v, "size 2" rated at 275A for peanuts
Is that maximum **phase** current output, or max battery current input?
Assuming I get lucky programming it, even the former should allow for say 250A at low speeds, say the 8-12V level internally, have I got that right?
Is there a downside to that level of overkill between controller and motor if OTP is taken care of?
_______
Some of em3ev's MACs are "rated" at 1500W
https://em3ev.com/shop/upgrade-mac-kit-with-4750v-battery-1500w-max/
or even 2000W https://em3ev.com/shop/upgrade-mac-ebike-kit-with-47-50v-battery-option-and-black-case-controller-2000w-max
I assume those are peak values for a pretty short duration, but
is that a different motor physically, or just the controller / battery etc getting upsized?
Kemosabe70
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This frame seems to be about 4.5-4.6inches (my digital caliper will be delivered Wednesday hopefully) would stretching it out 20mm be too much?amberwolf said:
I think that $0 options gives me the ability to change the rating to 30a, so that’s what I did.
MadRhino
100 GW
The easy options for a narrow single speed frame is the small hub kit for the Brompton, or a BBS kit.
It is not impossible to mod the rear triangle to make 135mm dropout width, but difficult to do it straight and precise. I would prefer to weld bolt-on dropout mounts, and be free to fit any width, length, and positioning that I need with custom dropout plates.
It is not impossible to mod the rear triangle to make 135mm dropout width, but difficult to do it straight and precise. I would prefer to weld bolt-on dropout mounts, and be free to fit any width, length, and positioning that I need with custom dropout plates.
Kemosabe70
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That’s a great idea, there’s a steel fabricator down the block by me that has pictures of bike frames on his google page. I left him a voicemail asking if he could weld on a custom drop out plate.MadRhino said:
I’d assume rim brakes wouldn’t be an option if I were to move the wheel that far back, so I guess I‘d have to get a disc brake mount welded on as well?
Kemosabe70
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***CORRECTION***
Wyatt has emailed me stating the rear spacing is 120mm.
Wyatt has emailed me stating the rear spacing is 120mm.
WOW now **that** is inspiring!MadRhino said:
With 2WD you reckon that could be made to work in front, assuming old-school chromalloy rigid forks?
I guess w/ suspension fork completely out of the question?
(yes I know all the potentially fatal issues with front hub motors thanks)
Kemosabe70
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AngryBob said:
I want to get on the road ASAP for sure, I was actually refunded for the battery, which actually is a huge positive being that if I were to fix it, I would have a FREE battery to use.
Admittedly, the motor never fit properly, but the bike I'm using is "free" (the thing is like 7 years old and was $500) and has worked pretty well for what it is.
AngryBob said:
I personally cannot speak on Luna's sales tactics, but I pride myself on being straightforward and honest with all of my clients and this past year I brought in over $10m in revenue.
AngryBob said:
Honestly, I am a smoker, I like having a hand free to smoke with, PAS would make that simpler. :lol:
AngryBob said:
I have done brief research, but I was stuck on this 700c build because most bikes are sold out right now and I don't feel like scrapping the bottom of the barrel or spending more than I should on a bike when I can wait a few months and buy something I would really love and re-lace the motor to another rim or something. Much more importantly, I do not know why there are so few, but would love to know why.
Looks pretty cool, and yeah I would be interested.AngryBob said:
Kemosabe70
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john61ct said:
I bought a rear 12t from Em3ev last night and a new rigid chomoly fork the other day to fit to this bike
I detailed all this above^^ :wink:
goatman
10 MW
Kemosabe70 said:
that's a freewheel hub, you could just use a single speed freewheel and machine the axle to 120mm. I "machined" mine with a Sawzall on slow speed and a hand file. could've used a grinder but didn't want too much heat.
I needed to do that so my rear wheel was centered, i needed the rear wheel centered so i can go "no hands" to light my cigarette :lol:
Kemosabe70
10 W
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2020
- Messages
- 73
I mean is it really that hard to stretch this thing a little more than half an inch? :lol:goatman said:
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