GT i-drive 2.0 Build

[GCinDC]

If you drop the phase current or rated current values in the software, does that actually work?

there seem to be a lot of variables in play :lol:

if you're asking, "does programming work?", the answer is yes.

when i programmed my 846 board for Phase=80 and Rated=30, it was at least 7mph slower than when I set it to Phase=110 and Rated=40.

When I programmed it to 30A rated, that's the max that displayed on the CA.
When I programm it to 40A, that's the max that displays...

No idea what you mean by the throttle business...

Pretty sure you want to keep the phase and rated settings in relationship though. phase = rated x 2.5? or somesuch

Very helpful digest of infineon programming here: Keywin E-bike Lab Parameter Designer Software Manual ver 1.2

 

[full-throttle]

No idea what you mean by the throttle business...

I'm not a business, Mark just missed the ampersand and capitalised some of the letters

Like the frame!

Have two myself - an i-drive 1.0 which is my race bike and the i-drive 1500 which was the last US made of Easton tubing. I've considered electrifying the later one, but it has got too many cracks after too many 6ft drops and touring in the Australian alps with a trailer.

 

[GCinDC]

No idea what you mean by the throttle business...

I'm not a business, Mark just missed the ampersand and capitalised some of the letters

LOL, THAT'S funny.

Like the frame!

Thanks. Ditto! Yours looks awesome.. But searching your posts, I'm having that feeling like after months of searching, the treasure pops up under my nose: Re: Adjust LVC on Infineon 18 FET soft-start controller? (I'm putting it in my thread so I can find it again!) Hah. Ah, mods...

Have two myself - an i-drive 1.0 which is my race bike and the i-drive 1500 ... but it has got too many cracks ...

Interesting. Where are the cracks? Any issues w/ the headset? i've got a new one (sealed: $70) on order. Not sure if it's the extra stress from the fork, or if the existing headset is trashed but my little rebuild job lasted a day before it got sloppy again. New one should be in soon.

Just like controllers are rated for Current, I wonder if these bikes can be rated for drops. Also wonder about the effect of the extra weight on the frame. For example, would it be the same stress on the bike if i weighed 200lbs as if i weighed 170 + 30 lbs of motor, batts, etc.

I'd love to take it on trails but the fact of the matter is that it's primarily and urban assault vehicle. iIm going to mount a camera on my helmet and record the morning commute. It's pretty sick. Poor b*stards stuck in traffic and I'm slicing through, leaping out ahead, taking curbs, etc. Usually my most fun of the day: my 5 mile 12 minute commute.

Anyway, it's getting late. I just tested the bike. Regen is not what I was hoping for. Seems the same as w/ 846 board. I've not yet hooked up the ebrake, so we'll see how fast it'll stop me when I get those connected up. I put a 1K, truly 986 ohm resistor in place of R12, so maybe that can be tweaked. That's why the 'Adjust LVC.." thread got my attention.

New fets from Methods arrived today (Thanks!). But dang, for someone who hasn't yet beefed up the traces, I'm wondering how easy it is to mess up and splash solder all over the place, esp between the fet pins. Perhaps tomorrow I'll feel more courageous...

I want the sucker to stop in REGEN like I were putting on the brakes!

 

[GCinDC]

PS. Mark, apologies if my response insulted your intelligence... Judging from your posts in the other thread you know a hell of a lot more than me! :lol:

 

[Mark_A_W]

PS. Mark, apologies if my response insulted your intelligence... Judging from your posts in the other thread you know a hell of a lot more than me! :lol:

No, it's ok, you didn't.

And I'm glad to know the current limit parameters work. That's exactly what I'll do.


The throttle limit switches are the X0 X1 X2 switch points on the PCB which correspond to the Speed 1/2/3 parameters.

For instance, we can use them to make a legal/offroad switch, as we have a miserly 200w legal limit.

 

[amberwolf]

Also wonder about the effect of the extra weight on the frame. For example, would it be the same stress on the bike if i weighed 200lbs as if i weighed 170 + 30 lbs of motor, batts, etc.

I doubt it. The weight is in different places, so the stresses are in different spots in the frame.

The motor is entirely in the suspension triangle in back, so it's weight and torque won't really affect the rest of the bike (except for forces from inertia during bump absorption at the shock mount point), only the wheel itself.

The battery pack is feeding load (AFAICS) down into the downtube and seatpost, plus some in the toptube. Then that also feeds into the front and rear forks/frames/wheels.

If it were just you, it'd all feed down into the seatpost/tube first, and then into the bottom bracket, down tube, rear triangle/front fork and wheels. Top tube and suspension points feeding back load into the seattube. Well, except that you'd actually be spreading some of that load directly to the BB by pedalling, and more of that load into the bars and thru that to the steerer tube and front fork, by leaning on the bars and steering.

So the load is distributed differently between the two types of load.

 

[GCinDC]

The weight is in different places, so the stresses are in different spots in the frame.

Makes sense. The lipos are so light, and with them enlcosed in the frame, and with the other weight in the rear wheel, handling is awesome.

In other news, here's my R12 mod from a couple days ago. R12 resistor replaced with 1K ohm resistor:

Mike1 told me this should NEVER break, so I tested it by lifting the whole board by it...

Come to think of it, does C9 (next to it) look toast? I might have nicked it while soldering the top of R12... I did test it and got some R. Anybody know what it *should* be?

 

[GCinDC]

we have a miserly 200w legal limit.

How is this enforced? Cops on bikes? Bike speed traps? Are there lots of ebikes in Melbourne?

In DC, it's a free for all with the traffic, and the couriers do ridiculous stuff. The cops look away.

I followed the VP escort all the way up Mass Ave yesterday. At least 10 screaming cop cars. Going up the hill, it looked like a Christmas tree!

 

[full-throttle]

Where are the cracks?

Mainly on the seat tower, near the shock mount and near the seat clamp. Don't stress though - GT fixed those bugs on your model. No problems with headset on either models.

 

[GCinDC]

...GT fixed those bugs on your model.

Glad to hear it. Thanks!

Update: Connected ebrake line (blk/yel), but when I hit brakes, it powers off controller/CA!

Is that the power line. Will open case to see. Assumed it was ebrake. Only two wire connector coming out...

Meanwhile, I already ran a separate on/off/kill switch line to handlebar. Out of box, controller had 20awg going to 3rd pin of power connector. I cut that wire, put the switch on it and connected the ouside end to postive lead. Inside I goes to vcc...

 

[GCinDC]

Correction: Hitting brake doesn't power off CA, it merely removes characters so CA appears only backlit...

Also: After 15-30 seconds of turning my on switch, voltage goes from 81.7 up to 92.3V and hovers there...

So something is funky w/ CA. I've got both my new 116 and old 846 open side-by-side and am comparing connections. Not a lot similar!

It's gonna take some concentration and patience to note the locations of each 'pin'.

 

[nicobie]

Correction: Hitting brake doesn't power off CA, it merely removes characters so CA appears only backlit...

Also: After 15-30 seconds of turning my on switch, voltage goes from 81.7 up to 92.3V and hovers there...

So something is funky w/ CA. .

I had that happen to me when I upped my voltage to around 86V (hot). It appears that some of the CA's have a problem with a resistor popping over 72V. It's a surface mounted one and I didn't want to attempt to switch out. Get in touch with Justin. He will take care of it. (ebikes.ca is #1)

 

[GCinDC]

Thing is, I've had the CA running perfect with my (used to be YOUR) 846 controller!

I just posted to the E-Bike Technical forum: Proper Wiring of the CA/EBrake to 116 Controller (BLP7245)?

On my 846 controller, I've got two wires going to the bottom of the shunt and one to the top! The 116 has two to GND on the edge...

I probably shouldn't do this, but just so I have everything together for myself, I'll republish it:

New controller issues...

I've just swapped my 846 infineon controller with a 116, bought directly from Keywin/ecrazyman, in an attempt to get higher regen. (for braking, not nec for charging...)

So first, I've performed the following mods on the 116 out of the box from Keywin:

-> jumped BK/GND (acutally put them on a switch)
-> removed R12 and soldered in 1K ohm resistor
-> soldered programming header to board (and programmed board with these settings)
-> added power switch, or attempted to.... The power lead connector had three wires: two thick +/GND wires and a thin red + wire attached to Vcc-1.
I assumed the thin + wire was for a switch so I wired it like my 846 controller is wired: with a switch on the thin + wire from Vcc before it enters the + powerpole terminal. (as in the diagram below). Not sure what mate there should have been for this on the battery side...

So, the issues:

__ 1. When I turn on the switch (which I ran to the handlebar), the CA Voltage reads a steady 82V for 15-45 seconds, and THEN it shoots up to 93V and oscillates there, within a volt or two. Somewhat disconcerting, having lipos & all... but obviously there's no change in battery voltage. This is w/ bike at standstill, no throttle at all. I've tried timing it, but timing isn't consistent. Seems to occur sooner after depressing eBrake...

__ 2. The eBrake lever, when depressed, causes the CA to display only backlighting, no more characters, and have no effect on braking. The eBrake line, (YEL/BLK from controller) isn't wired to EBS, as on 846 controller. Here are some shots from top (L) and bottom (R). Is this correct??

Any suggestions!?

My build thread here. Issues mentioned in last post, p. 5.

Thanks

 

[GCinDC]

PS. and oh yeah, another big diff between my 846 and 116 controller is:

When I plug in the power leads (andersons) on the 846, I get NO SPARK
When I plug in the power leads (andersons) on the 116, I get MOTHER SPARK... This I'd like to CHANGE!

 

[dbaker]

I know what you mean about sparking! With my 24s pack and the 18fet infineon I get major sparking and even on just the ignition wire (S). The technical area has this thread on the subject:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7994


Summarizing, you need to use a series resistor to reduce the capacitor charging current. These is a link to a tool in the thread for sizing that resistor. I plan to use a SPDT switch for my (S) wire that will place a series resistor on one of the switch positions. To operate I will switch from center off to resistor pole for a minute or so and then switch to the straight through position.

Dave

 

[Mark_A_W]

My solution is to use a 50A Anderson connector. The grey one with two integrated connectors.


The spark erodes the front end of the conductor, which does not actually contact when the connector is fully connected - so it doesn't matter. And the spark is miles away from your fingers.

Also, the conductor is huge, so the spark damage would take YEARS to render it useless.


Every few months I clean up the front of the conductor with a small file.

 

[GCinDC]

Thanks guys. Great ideas. I've started connecting them slower, letting the spark happen and then it slides in fine, basically destroying the tip only. But the resistor bmethod should be easy enough, once I get the proper resistor...

Dave, you shouldn't need to disconnect though, right? Since you're going cc cv... not sure I understand the switch idea. You connect while switch off. Then switch pos one charges caps, and then pos 2 won't spark? Get the parts. I'll come by this weekend!

Dave's making a mean machine!

 

[GCinDC]

I plan to use a SPDT switch for my (S) wire that will place a series resistor on one of the switch positions. To operate I will switch from center off to resistor pole for a minute or so and then switch to the straight through position.

Will two poles of the switch have 10 guage wire, and will all that current be passing through the switch?

I see how the switch can be used to avoid the spark, but it has to also allow the current to pass too, in the second position, no? In which case it would have to be rated for all that, right?

Just found an old post of mine where everyone laughed at my switch. :lol:

 

[etard]

GC,
You have to get a video posted of that commute. I remember going to college riding down Rock Creek to Georgetown messing about on bikes and hucking around The Mall with my buddies. Ah, good times . Anyway, I would love to watch your morning commute, always wanted to be a bike currier. I also used to have a GT Idrive frame, never built it up as intended, never had faith in the seatpost design. Mine was actually cracked and repaired rather poorly. But the ones that don't break seemed to be an immensely good ride. Watch out for the GT in DC!! :lol:

 

[GCinDC]

You have to get a video posted of that commute....

etard, i love your avatar name!

thanks for encouragement. you inspired me:


i need to borrow someone's usb cable to post the vid. the mount held up okay, though a helmet mount would certainly be better. i was surprised the video stayed as stable as it did - must be the effect of the fish eye (gorilla taped to front of camera).

unfortunately, my memory card ran out after 6 minutes, but that's fine since youtube only allows 10 min, right?

I'll post other vids downtown later. meanwhile, stay tuned for part one, NW DC -> Just past (observatory) VP's house on Mass.

 

[GCinDC]

[youtube]JnB09LHzoTI[/youtube]

 

[bzhwindtalker]

I like how you take STOPs :lol:

 

[etard]

First of all let me say:

You have just reached legendary status in my book!! Splitting lanes like that, you belong in CA man, you can do that legal on motorcycle ( or ebike). Looks like NW with all the colonial brick houses, kinda like Chevy Chase. I love it, miss that area, not the cold weather, but there is so much culture and great architecture. Your bike seems very fast, what was your top speed? You should post the other half on your way home. One more thing, I can't believe you jump curbs with that camera gorrila mounted! My family lives in the Shenandoah Valley, and my best friend is in Takoma Park, so we might have to meet up sometime.

Might I suggest one of these: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/HB310A00-Titec+Jones+H-Bar+254+Handlebar.aspx
:wink:

 

[GCinDC]

Thanks! Glad you liked it...

Stay tuned for more!!

Might be time to create a new youtube channel. Right now I've got the vid in with all the new baby vids... The grandparents are subscribed so I might be getting some calls after they watch it. :lol:

what was your top speed? ... I can't believe you jump curbs with that camera gorrila mounted! My family lives in the Shenandoah Valley, and my best friend is in Takoma Park, so we might have to meet up sometime.

Tippedy-top speed on the bike is 40mph. On that ride, I probably hit 35 on that bumpy stretch I was side-by-side w/ the white car.

Re the gorilla mount, the camera is actually screwed tight to a mini-tripoed which is velcroed once around head-tube, and taped around it twice... I was surprised it didn't bob down though.

Drop me a line when you're back in town! I still want to set up an ebike club in the metro area...

 

[greenerwheels]

Sweet!........... I mean, that's not responsible riding and does not reflect well on the overall electric bike movement ................ Yeah well.........its Still......... Sweet!!! You have larger Nads than I, here in Portland ("self proclaimed bike capital of the universe") Someone would open a car door on you and then a judge would make you pay to repair the guys car door. Of course speed can be used to an advantage, you're gone before anyone realized you were there. be safe. And thanks for video of your splendid ride!!!

Greenerwheels