Help needed for Ebike Setup

[stypherfire]

Please see above example of my set up. I just want to make sure that it is correct in terms of wiring. Also some questions i need are in the image as well. The Black box on the bottem is Method's HVC breaker thing. Please let me know if the setup above will work.

 

[dogman dan]

Lots of people just make Y adapters for that connection. Solder or otherwise join three typically short wires, then put the connector of your choice on the ends.

Alternatively, the y's could be permanent on either the pack side or the controller side. Can't comment on the overall wiring, since I never touched one of those Hvc Lvc boards.

 

[stypherfire]

Okay so i THINK i got the batteries wired up correctly. This should be working correctly.

Now i have the final step which i am having trouble with. Essentially i have a Charger + PSU but have no idea how to interface them.

On the PSU above, there is no plug like a computer PSU which i can plug into a wall socket which is confusing me. The image shows the only thing that might be used for plugging into the wall. Can someone tell me how to plug the PSU into wall socket?

Hyperion EOS1420inet3 charger. I Also need to know where the + and - wires from the Charger goes on the PSU.

 

[potatorage]

For the PSU, you'll need to get a cord with a three prong plug. wire it up so that green wire goes to ground, and the other wires go to neutral and line according to their colors (you'll want to check with a multimeter to be sure).

 

[dogman dan]

L is the black wire on your AC plug.

N is the white wire on the AC plug

The one between N and COM is the ground, green wire.

On the left side, COM means DC negative, V+ means DC positive.

 

[docnjoj]

The permenentaly attached wires in the back (red and black go to the + and - respectively of the power supply. The jacks at the bottom of the page charge your battery.
otherDoc

 

[Jeremy Harris]

Worth noting that wire colours on mains power connections are not to any internationally agreed standard, so pretty much each country on this forum may have totally different colours for live, neutral and earth.

For safety's sake, others would be very well advised to ensure that they check the wiring standards in their own country before using the suggestion Dogman's given above (which I presume will be the colours that are used in Canada).

 

[stypherfire]

Okay so i have a Computer Power supply cable on hand. It appears to be rated at 10 A and 125V 1250W. The Actually PSU says input 175-264VAC and 5 A while Output is +24 V and 25A. Ill take it that this cable wont fry.

 

[dogman dan]

Good point, what I was saying is what's commonly seen in the USA. Canada pretty much the same? I thought it was.

If this helps any, modern USA plugs have a small hole on one side and a slightly taller hole on the other side. The + is the small hole and the - is the taller hole. Middle rounder hole the ground.

 

[stypherfire]

Perfect. Now i think i have everything ready. I have plugged in the charger with PSU and it worked perfectly. The only question is that i am running 4 lipos. I am probably saying that wrong. Basically i am making a 44.4V 10A pack with 4 x 22.2V 5A turnigy batteries.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9176

that is how i connected my batteries together (which is configuration i HOPE the motor will run on). Is there ANY reason why this config wont work for charging? I keep reading that i should be paralleling all the batteries together before charging. Everything at the bottom eventually leads to Y Joint as you can see. Can i just plug it into the charger and expect it not to burn down my house?

Finally, there are 4 balancer tabs however the charger only comes with 2 types of boards.2 Hyperion Adapter boards for HP and PQ and 2 JST XH Adapter boards. From what i read in the manual, my batteries use the 2 JST XH Adapter boards however i have 4 balancer tabs any only enough space to fit 2. What are my options?

 

[methods]

I replied to your other thread.
Please return the two detector boards for a replacement as the sparks you described will/can destroy/damage the detector chips.
Was the cause of the sparks determined?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=36414&p=645823#p645823

Also - you dont need the HVC breaker if you are going to use a Hyperion charger - the Hyperion handles HVC protection for you by monitoring at the cell level so we would be willing to take back the HVC Breaker if you don't want/need it. I am currently behind on production and other customers have been asking for them.

thanks,
-methods

 

[stypherfire]

Sure, just give me the mailing address to mail the HVC breaker back to you. or if you want i can send it to where ever you want.
as for the panels, i have kinda integrated them already into my battery pack. Like i have literally embedded them into the pack and would be somewhat difficult to remove. Let me know if i can somehow test it myself to see if there is any damage.

 

[stypherfire]

Also i have just put everything together and realized that there are wires from the controller that i have no idea what they are for. i have the throttle(2 wires),Breaks(1 Wire), Battery (2 wires), CA(1 wire), Motor (4 wires? forgoet pretty sure its 4). i believe there are 2-3 extra wires i have no idea what they attach to. Should i be concerned?

 

[methods]

If you created sparks while plugging a balance tap into an LVC board it is highly probable that the board is damaged. You can leave them in there if you want - but you may not have protection on some cells. There is really no way to test in situ because your cells are hooked directly up to the detectors. Testing requires three things:

1) Leakage current test - basically looking for a shorted or partially shorted detector that can act as a constant drain on one or more cells
2) LVC functionality test
3) HVC functionality test

You can do the first with a DMM on each of the 6 channels
You can do the second and third with a pot and a 5V source

Or you can just send it to me and I will put it on the testing station that goes real quick bam bam bam - I am sure at least one or two of your detectors are damaged if you make sparks enough to damage the pins on in the parallel section

-methods

 

[stypherfire]

Method:
Okay PM me a mailing address and ill get the Breaker back to you.

Okay so i am now having another issue. I have charged the batteries and such as well as balanced them, etc. I have set up everything on my bike and should be good to go. Plugged everything in to the controller (i have 2 wires left over with nothing to plug into them from the controller. Not sure if that is normal) and was just plugging in my batteries. BAM the moment i plugged the battery into the controller a huge spark/ember thing zapped and luciky i quickly got it apart before it flared and exploded @_@. I saw only physical damage to the anderson heads of the last connectors i plugged in which is normal from my understanding. I replaced them and am now afraid to plug it in again. I AM SURE i plugged it in right. Red to Red Black to Black..

Please look at that and tell me if i should try again.. I am not even sure if my controller is even working still. The flair was pretty big.

 

[stypherfire]

My bike is up and running now!! so awesome. I found someone in my area which does ebikes and stuff. he actually been on here or is at least. If you read this thanks again! Now i have a slight concern from a reading i am seeing on my CA while i am riding. I notice that while riding sometimes i get up to 1000+ watts on the CA. I am using a 500W Mac Motor from Cellman. I want to know if this is killing my motor.

 

[cal3thousand]

My bike is up and running now!! so awesome. I found someone in my area which does ebikes and stuff. he actually been on here or is at least. If you read this thanks again! Now i have a slight concern from a reading i am seeing on my CA while i am riding. I notice that while riding sometimes i get up to 1000+ watts on the CA. I am using a 500W Mac Motor from Cellman. I want to know if this is killing my motor.

It's cool .. that 500W means it runs at 500W continuosly. Spikes of 1000W aren't anything to worry about. I get spikes of 2000W on my small commuter and run 350-400W continuous.