help troubleshooting first ebike build

According to the Calibike guy, the white switch is off purely for shipping. I've tried to call him, because if I don't need it anymore, i'd like to get rid of it. When I get through, I'll let you know. As far as a review of the battery, let me know what to measure, and I'd be glad to report back.

I haven't disappeared on a ride yet. My son and I zipped up and down the street, but the cranks, chains and bottom brackets are yet to be reinstalled. Hopefully I'll get 40 years of goo off today and we'll get out for a real ride. Then I'm sure I'll be back on the forum trying to figure out how to better mount the battery and wiring and asking how to read that voltmeter I'm going to get.

Thanks again to all, especially D8veh, Neil and WesNewell. You'll helped me learn a lot about my electrical system. I like understanding things!
 
We just want to know how the cali battery works over time no measuring and how rafie treats you over time. Customer service thing. And is it a good value. Good luck.
 
I thought I'd update after a few weeks. I have had the chance to take a variety of rides of various lengths and grades (we are in hilly Southern California) culminating in a 20 mile trip yesterday. My 8 year old son has named the motor "Fasty" and declared that we must treat it like another rider and do our part by peddling up the hills with it.

The 48V 1kw motor is performing as I'd hoped. I engage the throttle mostly on uphills, on and off on the flats, and off the start to gain momentum. I peddle regularly, whether alone or with a stoker. The result is a quick, easy ride that still feels like biking. I don't have a speedometer on the bike, but I'd guess it cruises at 20mph on the flats and does 8-12mph on the hills ranging from 6-8% grade. That's carrying 280-330 pounds of peddling riders, and the bike with electric kit is probably close to 100lbs. I have not tried jumping the three speed connector, but I'm happy at current speeds.

I haven't connected a voltmeter yet, but measured after the the 20 mile ride and had 46.6V on the battery. I'd appreciate guidance on how to interpret that as a measure of remaining battery capacity and range.

Two issues stick out,

1) the motor came laced in a wheel, and to say the spokes were loose might imply that someone had actually tried to properly build the wheel, which I doubt. I tightened them, but not enough, and after 4 miles the rim was floppy and in danger of collapsing. Nothing the LBS and $20 couldn't correct. In hindsight, I would have taken it for a truing before assembling as truing is beyond my current skills and the spokes were clearly in need of attention.

2) The motor is quiet at speed, but moans and groans at startup, especially if on any grade, for a few seconds. It helps if we can peddle and get rolling before engaging the throttle, but a boost off the start is a great benefit on this tank of a bike. I'm wondering is this is a natural effect of the load the motor is being asked to carry, or if there is an issue that I should address.

All in all, I'm very pleased with the result and am looking forward to enjoying my new utility vehicle and our new family member, Fasty.

Thanks again for all the advice and assistance in getting this bike rolling.
 
Tha is anothe rthing you will need to learn to do. wheel maintenance

http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Easy enough it is just a matter of taking it slow and careful with small adjustments
 
Yeah, unfortunately majority China kit wheel builds are simply lacking for any sort of heavy duty service. You’re gonna need to wrap your head around basic truing and it doesn’t need to be your motor wheel to learn this invaluable skill. Any junk bike wheel can be a “lesson” in the craft. Sheldon Brown = good link to peruse...

But gotta get your hands dirty - start with an old wheel and proper fitting wrench. Put some wire tie-wraps somewhere on the frame to act as a visual guide/gauge to see the runout pf the rim as it’s turned. Start tightening spokes 1/2 turn on one side only. As you do notice how the rim moves slightly to the side you’re tightening. Play around a bit, it’s a bit like tuning a stringed instrument and getting a feel for how much tension is commonly used.

Eventually, you’ll get comfortable enough to build and true a good motor wheel from scratch using strong, wide, quality rims and proper spokes. And then, you’ll probably never have to touch it again for a very long time. Kinda ironic that once you build a motor into a good wheel, you won’t have much need to practice anymore, LOL…. I never buy anything but loose motors anymore - build my own wheels and avoid many a headache.

Pack voltage isn’t much help to gauge used or remaining capacity. You can record beginning voltage run it down completely and record the “empty” voltage. Then draw a graph that might resemble SOC although it’s still “black art” to extrapolate SOC from such data.

The only way to really know how much power your battery provides and the system consumes is to use a power meter inserted between the battery & controller. Cycle Analyst (CA) is the “Cadillac” of power meters and eBike dashboards but there’s cheaper ways to go if you’re willing to learn wiring and connector rework.

These guys are a great bargain if you're able to crimp/install connectors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-130A-LCD-GT-Power-RC-Battery-Balance-Watt-Meter-Meter-Power-Analyzer-/181445701784?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a3f01b098

Enjoy the ride!
 
I did read the Sheldon Brown and several other sources. I do almost all of my own bike work/maintenance, and will get to wheels, but I run a flower biz and we had this little thing called Valentine's that was keeping me busy :) and I wanted to ride that bike. The $20 spent at the LBS was a great deal
 
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