Loud Currie Gear Reduction Motor

lbz5mc12 said:
I have a Currie Skyline. The motor is 250W and it's not really that noisy. I've also used the 450W version of the same motor and it was pretty quiet as well. They were both 24V motors. I'm also using a 16 tooth freewheel with it instead of the 20 tooth it comes with. Can the 24V motors be run at 36V?
Click to expand...
I've run 2 -24V EZip 450w motors at 37V for more than 3000 miles each.
Fun ... is that it pushes the output to 675W.
I like the motor sound, but tough to hear with the wind whipping past.

Next move, I'm gonna push to 44.4V ... 44 MAGNUM
832.5 Watts output = 1.11HP
I estimate:
30mph+ motor only
35mph w/pedal assist
40mph ... drafting behind minivan ... ?

Just imagining ... motor screaming as I approach someone at ~35mph ... then the pitch changing towards a howl, as I fly past ... HARO Express Deluxe Build
 
The "Silent" XYD-16 motor.

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It is easy to tell the Silent" XYD-16 motor, from the older "noisy" MY1018Z (MY1080z also)

XYD-16 ... 2009 and newer EZip Trailz

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MY1018z ... 2008 Ezip Trailz

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I believe many of the resellers are lazy ... they post the stock picture of the older MY1018z, while selling the newer XYD-16.
Of course, some are probably selling "old stock" MY1018z, so ... try to confirm identity with sellers, before ordering.
 
DrkAngel said:
Curriestore - XYD-16 motor w/mounting bracket - $148.89

Listed as MY1018z TNC Scooters - $85

ebay - $115

More sources?

Confirmation of MY1018z or XYD-16 ... anyone?
Click to expand...
DrkAngel, this is quality stuff. Please let us know if you confirm the above as either the helically-geared XYD-16's, or the straight-spur-geared MY1018z's.

Dorel sells parts for their Izips, including the MY1018Z motor.... I am trying to get ahold of them for pricing and try to find out if the motors are actually the helically-geared XYD-16's.
I have a call in to TNCScooters for the same...

I've just cooked my 3rd MY1018....
 
Knowledgethirst said:
Is the noisy motor genuine Currie or Chinese Currie "STYLE" motor? Lindsay
Click to expand...
For many years, Currie motors have been made by Unite.

http://szunitemotor.en.made-in-china.com/
 
Knowledgethirst said:
Is the noisy motor genuine Currie or Chinese Currie "STYLE" motor?
Lindsay
Click to expand...
I believe it is the Unite (Model? Design?) motor, built by various manufacturers (Shanghai Masston Co., Ltd. +others) for Currie.

2006 era cooling mods!
Ignore 1st picture!
Post & other pictures are for the MY1018 geared motor.
 
Can't say who Currie uses for building their motor these days. But I have 5 Curries motors (all 450w 24v) that ether came on an '09 EZip or were sent to me as replacement motors from Currie. Only 2 of them are from the same manufacture. So I think it's far to assume that Currie has a basic spec and price shops and buys who ever can deliver at the cheapest price. BTW, while the mounting holes are all the same I found that you can not interchange the covers on the differant brands. owever, I believe the bearings are the same but can't say if the gears are or not. Each motor has a vering degree of noise. I had one the was almost wisper quite until I removed the cover screws to mount it. Then true to these motors it sounded off.

Bob
 
What makes the newer currie motor less powerful? It's the same size I believe. I just picked up a cheap ezip ecoride on craigslist, for the quiet currie motor on it. I plan to either add it on my main 9c ebike, or do a lightweight build with it as a mid drive to the front chainrings like my old ebike builds.

I just rode the ecoride with it's single speed gearing. Of course on 24v it has no balls whatsoever, but I think I could overpower it and not kill it if I am smart.

As a crank drive, in combination with a separate 9c drive system, I could achieve very good efficiency by not using the 9c below 15mph and just the currie on those starts, which would do fine.
 
veloman, Just wondering..are you sure you have a 450w motor and 35a controller? Currie sells 250w models woth a 20a or 25a controller as well for Canada that have found their way into the US. The motor and controller look exactly the same too. I don't think the motors are marked but the controllers are marked so you should be able to check it.

What voltage are you planning to run this motor on?

Bob
 
Does anyone know where to get an adaptor to mount a 13T single speed freewheel onto the motor instead of the fixed 9t sprocket ?
 
jk1 said:
Does anyone know where to get an adaptor to mount a 13T single speed freewheel onto the motor instead of the fixed 9t sprocket ?
Click to expand...
http://www.ffrtrikes.com/Micro-Stainless-Steel-Freewheel-Adapter-p/11ssmicro.htm

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/5_8_ID_Adaptor_for_freewheel_sprocket_13_14_15_tooth_30mm_x_1_0_OD-529-20.html
 
hi miles i measured the inside of my gear and its around 11mm id. the links you sent is for 1/2 inch or 5/8 id? unless i am measuring it wrong
 
yes it has a 4mm wide keyway . i want a proper version of what this guy did diy :p http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eY41JBi3xgo&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
You can make a bush and then cut it away to clear the key. There is a slightly larger keyway in the Staton adapter than on your shaft, so you'll need to make a new key. You could use the FFR adapter and forget the keyway. Or, you could commission someone to make a custom adapter.....
 
Time to revive this topic. I finally finished putting my 2013 EZIP Trailz Diamond frame back together. It sat for about 10 months, upside down on a bike stand, while I first waited for a back-ordered rear wheel assembly, then was further delayed by health problems. Anyway, that sitting upside down was apparently a mistake: the motor runs fine, but the gear train is LOUD under low or no load. It quiets right down under real load, like uphills or up-grades, but on level pavement, using PAS especially, it's way too loud. I figured the gearcase grease shifted in the case, and hoped that after it ran warm and then sat right-side up, it would quiet down. No such luck. It doesn't get hot and the motor sounds and acts healthy, but the gear whine isn't improving. I need step by step instructions on how to open, repack, and then reassemble that motor. Please?
 
Check chain tension first!
Slight amount of slack-sag, not tight!

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=49279&hilit=+grease#p728057

Reach through spokes and remove 2 phillip and 4 Allen (metric) bolts.

eZip12.png

Pull motor out, releasing chain.
Pry cover off ... carefully, gasket is very easy to break.
Insert edge of knife blade(?) and wiggle to begin separation.
Careful to not lose small spring washer on end of bearing.
Grease all teeth and leave a small gob near motor gear.
"Gob" in picture might be a bit much, less is preferable.
Do not fill gearbox!
file.php
 
Thanks.Does the sprocket assembly come right through the plate, intact? Is that needed to grease it? First, though, I'll recheck the chain. I had it so it would 'wiggle' up and down about 1/2" total. I'll try loosening it more before I take it apart.
 
I loosened the chain a lot, but no dice. At first I thought it had gotten quieter, but that was just because I was keeping it under load as I started off and then climbed the small hill on my street. I'm back to thinking the grease migrated while it was upside down. First I'm going to heat the motor with a hair dryer or small electric heater, and if that doesn't work I'll repack it. Thanks for the photos.

Worse still, the brand new wheel is making that annoying clicking sound that I associate with a worn freewheel. Damn.
 
The newer quieter motor is the XYD-16 model Identifiable by label or a "C" on the cover.
The older noisier MY-1018z model is still available, Identifiable by a Triangle type insignia on the cover and usually cheaper than the XYD-16.
So buying a new motor does not insure getting a "quiet" model.

(The C is the XYD-16, helically geared, quieter but with a slightly lower top speed.)
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(The triangle is the MY1018z, louder, with straight cut gears, but seems to have a (slightly) higher speed and lower heat production.)
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Other noise
Chain should not be tight!
Tight will produce very rough loud damaging use.
Very loose can be nearly as bad, with excessive wear and loud chain noise.
Ideally, chain should have between ⅛" - ¼" sag.
Wear will create progressive noise volume.

Chain and motor sprocket should be replaced every couple thousand miles, wheel sprocket every few thousand.
Oh, don't forget to lubricate chain frequently.

When replacing, carefully inspect sprockets for imperfections.
A small round file can remove any burrs or casting imperfections ... these will produce noise and damage.
 
I've seen the motor covers before, but thanks for reposting them. I'd rather repack than replace, but I hate to tackle the job without knowing it's (lack of grease) the cause.

"Ideally, chain should have between ⅛" - ¼" sag."
Click to expand...

That's what it had after I replaced the wheel. Now it has about 1" and the drive is still loud.
 
LeftieBiker said:
I've seen the motor covers before, but thanks for reposting them. I'd rather repack than replace, but I hate to tackle the job without knowing it's (lack of grease) the cause.

"Ideally, chain should have between ⅛" - ¼" sag."
Click to expand...

That's what it had after I replaced the wheel. Now it has about 1" and the drive is still loud.
Click to expand...
Check for alignment.
Different wheel might align differently.
Both sprockets should be on the same plane, straight and even with each other.
 
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