Ricky_nz
10 kW
Hi All
Its been a long time since I logged in here.
Ive been busy with non ebike things but it finally happened and I managed to grind off most of the cable where it enters the axel of my MAC 10T. I have been putting about 25KM per day, 5 days a week on this thing.
So thought I would take a good look inside while I do it but it became difficult.
First off my carefully blue loctited in screws were very tight. I almost rounded one out before I got hold of a better set of alen keys. Yes mine had been replaced with Allen head countersunk screws because on my first rides I managed to lose most of the origional torx ones and they were what I could get.
I had to resort to my 1500W Hot air gun to heat up the screws and surrounding area one at a time and then just just hold a decent but not excessive amount of preassure on the key until they finally cracked loose. Looks like on some of them I put in too much loctite and it got under the countersunk head .
One screw was so bad even with a good Allen key it was felling like it was rounded out but I found a small amount of lime from the bike track came out when I scraped it out with the point of my smd tweezers and there was just enough engagment to get it out although I applied more heat first because this screw felt like the last amount of engagment wasen't going to last if I forced it.
Now with all the screws out I can get the cover of the side that opens to see the motor windings off and thats all good.
I want to check in the other side but thats the next problem. That cover won't break free from the Axle. I'm guessing the bearing has corroded to the shaft or something.
Currently trying to soak in some CRC cause Its all I have.
I want to fix this this weekend so I might have to skip looking in that side but I'm not sure if I need to pull the motor apart completely to replace the wires?
The hot air gun also works well to remove the epoxy over the connections on the hall sensor board.
Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks,
Ricky
Its been a long time since I logged in here.
Ive been busy with non ebike things but it finally happened and I managed to grind off most of the cable where it enters the axel of my MAC 10T. I have been putting about 25KM per day, 5 days a week on this thing.
So thought I would take a good look inside while I do it but it became difficult.
First off my carefully blue loctited in screws were very tight. I almost rounded one out before I got hold of a better set of alen keys. Yes mine had been replaced with Allen head countersunk screws because on my first rides I managed to lose most of the origional torx ones and they were what I could get.
I had to resort to my 1500W Hot air gun to heat up the screws and surrounding area one at a time and then just just hold a decent but not excessive amount of preassure on the key until they finally cracked loose. Looks like on some of them I put in too much loctite and it got under the countersunk head .
One screw was so bad even with a good Allen key it was felling like it was rounded out but I found a small amount of lime from the bike track came out when I scraped it out with the point of my smd tweezers and there was just enough engagment to get it out although I applied more heat first because this screw felt like the last amount of engagment wasen't going to last if I forced it.
Now with all the screws out I can get the cover of the side that opens to see the motor windings off and thats all good.
I want to check in the other side but thats the next problem. That cover won't break free from the Axle. I'm guessing the bearing has corroded to the shaft or something.
Currently trying to soak in some CRC cause Its all I have.
I want to fix this this weekend so I might have to skip looking in that side but I'm not sure if I need to pull the motor apart completely to replace the wires?
The hot air gun also works well to remove the epoxy over the connections on the hall sensor board.
Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks,
Ricky