danjpendleton
100 W
Yes wesnewell, your correct. Oversight on my part. Thanks
Mongoose dolomite fatbike? 7spd, disk brakes, INEXPENSIVE
- Thread starter danjpendleton
- Start date
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Weinmann have a reputation on MTBR that few would want to live up to. Or rather, down to. The price is nice, and it can't be any worse than the rim that came on the bike, but it likely isn't much improvement, either.
They do keep with the theme of a cheap Fatbike, so it seems appropriate. However, you can get much better quality double wall rims from places like choppersus.com.
They do keep with the theme of a cheap Fatbike, so it seems appropriate. However, you can get much better quality double wall rims from places like choppersus.com.
wesnewell
100 GW
I've been riding on Weinmann DH39 rims for about 2 years and 8K miles and they have been great. They've withstood my 270 lbs fine at up to 61.4mph on very bumpy road where I was airborne some of the time, and hitting a large dog at 15-20mph where they were unscathed, unlike me. I would have no problem buying them again. Now this is just one model, but if it reflects the toughness of there rims I'd say they were excellent.
https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=weinmann+dh39+review&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
This is the one that sold me on getting them.
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/tires-and-wheels/rim/weinmann/dh-39/prd_446992_139crx.aspx
https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=weinmann+dh39+review&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
This is the one that sold me on getting them.
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/tires-and-wheels/rim/weinmann/dh-39/prd_446992_139crx.aspx
danjpendleton
100 W
I bought my other rims from
Choppersus. Twice the price tho
Choppersus. Twice the price tho
Chalo
100 TW
When Weinmann rims are good, they are as good as any. When they are terrible, they can't be built into passable wheels. (I send them back.)
A friend of mine recently took delivery of 200 custom Weinmann rims with a special diameter and drilling count. They look fantastic. Are they any good? I'll have to build some to find out. We'll see.
A friend of mine recently took delivery of 200 custom Weinmann rims with a special diameter and drilling count. They look fantastic. Are they any good? I'll have to build some to find out. We'll see.
Lenk42602
10 kW
So my dolomite is together.
The Achilles heel are the wheels. Well okay and also every single part on the bike....
Seriously though, I have the bike as dialed as it can be, except for the wheels. The hubs, in particular are both poor in design, fabrication, and final assembly.
Ever shoot billiards and roll a pool cue across the table to determine the straightest stick to shoot with? Floppin all around when you roll them?
That's what I am seeing...I would love to see whatever lathe these hubs were turned on. Additionally, the rotor side of the hub is faced improperly - it is not square to the hub body. Finally, I am sure there some whacky stuff going on with the cups/cones regarding how well the bearings travel consistently inside . I can't confirm this, but I remember seeing or hearing that the hub assembly for this quality of bike is press fit with a bottle jack type of press, and the entire assemble is squished together, rather than one component at a time, checking for precision...
I am gonna pull the wheels tomorrow, and try to re - face the hubs, lap the cups with polishing compound, repack with crease, readjust, then touch up the spoke tension.
The hubs wobble on the axle enough due to poor manufacturing tolerances that it exceeds the lateral run out of pad clearance on a properly set up disc caliper. With straight rotors.... Hopefull the wheels will roll smoother, and the rotors will experience less lateral run out. If the latter is not any better, maybe I can find some untrue rotors that mirror the poorly face hubs and get em dead straight!
len
The Achilles heel are the wheels. Well okay and also every single part on the bike....
Seriously though, I have the bike as dialed as it can be, except for the wheels. The hubs, in particular are both poor in design, fabrication, and final assembly.
Ever shoot billiards and roll a pool cue across the table to determine the straightest stick to shoot with? Floppin all around when you roll them?
That's what I am seeing...I would love to see whatever lathe these hubs were turned on. Additionally, the rotor side of the hub is faced improperly - it is not square to the hub body. Finally, I am sure there some whacky stuff going on with the cups/cones regarding how well the bearings travel consistently inside . I can't confirm this, but I remember seeing or hearing that the hub assembly for this quality of bike is press fit with a bottle jack type of press, and the entire assemble is squished together, rather than one component at a time, checking for precision...
I am gonna pull the wheels tomorrow, and try to re - face the hubs, lap the cups with polishing compound, repack with crease, readjust, then touch up the spoke tension.
The hubs wobble on the axle enough due to poor manufacturing tolerances that it exceeds the lateral run out of pad clearance on a properly set up disc caliper. With straight rotors.... Hopefull the wheels will roll smoother, and the rotors will experience less lateral run out. If the latter is not any better, maybe I can find some untrue rotors that mirror the poorly face hubs and get em dead straight!
len
danjpendleton
100 W
i diassembled my front wheel. There was some bearing noise. The cone/conewasher was tweaked, so i relubed and straightened it out in a vice. Then readjusted the bearings. Seems ok, but i still think at the very least ill go with some weinmanns or maybe even some choppersus.
Trying to decide if i should upgrade the headset to a sealed cartridge style bearing setup. cost with install would be like 80....any thoughts?
http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222338290/98/FSA-The-Pig-DH-Pro-Headset.html?gclid=CJ7Z3OjIjMACFUVo7AodylkAAQ
Trying to decide if i should upgrade the headset to a sealed cartridge style bearing setup. cost with install would be like 80....any thoughts?
http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222338290/98/FSA-The-Pig-DH-Pro-Headset.html?gclid=CJ7Z3OjIjMACFUVo7AodylkAAQ
danjpendleton
100 W
dont they have to press the races into the headtube? My friend works at a shop and he said itd be 40... Maybe that was full assembly?
Avitt
100 W
Go to Home Depot, buy a long bolt, nut, and several large stainless steel washers. You'll be able to install the headset in yourself (provided you're able to get the old one out).
Drunkskunk
100 GW
FSA is the brand to go with, and a new headset is $14 http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-...iantID=19254&gclid=CIO66tb7jcACFWoR7AodLRUA5w
That's for a CroMo cupped version, which I prefer.
And the name is also my preferred install method. I usually tap my cups in with a rubber mallet. Tightening the top cap after the fork is installed will pull them the last fractions of degrees into alignment.
I use a headset lock like this to pull everything together. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=12467&category=98 The top cap's captive nut is probably good enough, and if it wasn't, a long bolt, few washers and some nuts should do fine. But this works for me.
That's for a CroMo cupped version, which I prefer.
And the name is also my preferred install method. I usually tap my cups in with a rubber mallet. Tightening the top cap after the fork is installed will pull them the last fractions of degrees into alignment.
I use a headset lock like this to pull everything together. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=12467&category=98 The top cap's captive nut is probably good enough, and if it wasn't, a long bolt, few washers and some nuts should do fine. But this works for me.
danjpendleton
100 W
oh nice! i have a big threaded rod i can use. ill probably just chisel out the existing races with a chisel bit in an air hammer. it seems like there are two types of headsets though, One being a sealed cartridge style....can anyone share some insight on the advantage of going this route. Its about 25 bucks more
Drunkskunk
100 GW
I remove the races with a wood rod and a mallet. Usualy a piece of sawed off broom handle. No air hammer needed. They aren't hard to remove.
Sealed bearings are maintenance free, and you won't have to go chasing tiny ballbearings across the garage floor when you want to change forks. They also won't collect dirt or grit.
But if you dunk the bike in the sea, or get caught for 3 days in the rain, you can't get the seals open to clear the water or repack the grease on many of them, so they're just done. You can repack the grease in the open ball type in minutes.
Also, most sealed cartridge bearings use Alloy races, where the open ball type use CroMo races.
I chose open ball for my Monster bike, as the CroMo was stronger, but for every other bike I own, I just don't care. I have a mix of both and see no difference. I have a 1934 Columbia with it's original open ball headset. I regreased it, its' fine. I have a 30 year old road bike with a sealed set. It's never had an issue.
Sealed bearings are maintenance free, and you won't have to go chasing tiny ballbearings across the garage floor when you want to change forks. They also won't collect dirt or grit.
But if you dunk the bike in the sea, or get caught for 3 days in the rain, you can't get the seals open to clear the water or repack the grease on many of them, so they're just done. You can repack the grease in the open ball type in minutes.
Also, most sealed cartridge bearings use Alloy races, where the open ball type use CroMo races.
I chose open ball for my Monster bike, as the CroMo was stronger, but for every other bike I own, I just don't care. I have a mix of both and see no difference. I have a 1934 Columbia with it's original open ball headset. I regreased it, its' fine. I have a 30 year old road bike with a sealed set. It's never had an issue.
danjpendleton
100 W
Well thanks for your input drunkskunk. oh and by the way, nice job on your full suspension fatbike. much respect. Saw the article on electricbike.com...bananas.
ill probably go with a decent fsa headset. maybe not a sealed cartridge bearing setup to allow for servicing. Makes more sense
ive been a car guy since day one so wrapping my head around bike modding comes with a learning curve
ill probably go with a decent fsa headset. maybe not a sealed cartridge bearing setup to allow for servicing. Makes more sense
ive been a car guy since day one so wrapping my head around bike modding comes with a learning curve
danjpendleton
100 W
This bike looks awesome
From my experience with a few inexpensive FSA "loose" bearing headsets, the bearings were held "loosely" in a frame (I'm sure there's a name for this type). This has all the advantages of loose bearings and you don't lose any. Also, It may sound cave mannish, but I tap the races out with a large screwdriver/hammer system. Haven't had a problem in 30 years and probably 25 bikes.
Chalo
100 TW
2old said:
They're called "retainers". They are not necessary-- a retainer can always be replaced by loose balls-- but they are convenient.
I use FSA "The Pig" loose ball headsets often for heavy duty applications. They're very durable and easy to deal with.
Traditional BMX practice is to pound a headset into place with a chunk of 2x4 placed to cushion the blows of a hammer. Extraction is often done with a piece of steel pipe struck by the same hammer. Using a press is easier, but you have to have a press.
GiantEV
100 W
Saw a guy riding one of these on the bike path today. I remember those distinctive red rims. Looked like he was having fun.
I'd like to get one of these and put some wide moto tires on it with a good motor.
I'd like to get one of these and put some wide moto tires on it with a good motor.
danjpendleton
100 W
ordered some avid front and rear disk brakes with hs1 160mm rotors. also ordered the front fsa "pig" headset. Im pretty sure ill end up ordering those weinmann dhl100 4" rims. from what ive read people have had good luck with them. if they end up looking like crap (as someone else mentioned as being a possibility) ill send them back. I have the 76v frame triangle battery from em3ev....so im trying to decide what motor to run. maybe an hs3540 like my other bike?? its 170mm rear dropout
danjpendleton
100 W
some promising news ^^^
Im thinking ill probably end up going with the hs3540 from grin. Its cheap enough but u can run 3kw reliably. These wheels are big though....hope i dont end up snapping the motor axle
GiantEV
100 W
I have both the HS3548 and the HS4040. The HS40xx is 5mm wider and the extra width really helps it from overheating as quickly. My HS35xx gets pretty hot when taking steep hills at 2000Watts, but the HS40xx on the same hills at 2000Watts just gets warm, nowhere near as hot as the HS35xx. I'm going to put a temp probe in the HS35xx (already have one in the HS40xx) so I can see how much hotter the 35 gets compared to the 40. The price difference, in my opinion, is worth it for the extra width. I bought my HS40xx at ebikessf.com from Ilia, and it's been great so far, and like most Crystalyte motors has a temp probe installed already.
danjpendleton
100 W
I should have gone 4040/4080 on my other bike because its single speed so the extra width wouldnt matter...not sure if it will matter onthis bikeeither because its 170mm rear dropout....hmmm
Simple818
100 W
Are you planning on using a rear motor or front? I'm really curious to see how this builds turns out.
danjpendleton
100 W
Rear
danjpendleton
100 W
View attachment 1
I Used a wheel bearing press(long bolt, and various cups) to press in the lower and upper bearing cups.
For the crown race on top of the fork i used a pipe that fit over the fork tube and hammered it down until it stopped.
Then reassembled. For $30 and a little elbow grease id say this headset/fork setup is much better and much beefier.
