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Mongoose dolomite fatbike? 7spd, disk brakes, INEXPENSIVE

Here is a wide suspension fork of the Monark style, that is of the best quality made. http://sportsmanflyer.com
 
going to probly get one…running mxus 3kw hub. Think I could get drbass torque plates welded on the INSIDE of each dropout, and it will fit? that would get rid of the hardest part of setting up a hub motor. The triangle doesn't seem too large, however seems to fit ev bags.
 
The dr bass torque arms are pretty thick, but welded inside the dropouts should take up most of the space to run the mxus
 
Mind if I join you guys?

I feel like a Fat Tire build next...

Wes & Diggler, how are you liking the MXUS 3000W on the Dolomite?
 
I would like to know too, what teslanv said.
Also, whats the turning like on those fat bikes?
Can you bike down the road with no hands?
 
Works fine on mine. Had to adjust rear disc caliper in about an inch, but that's about all as far as getting the motor mounted good. As for riding comfort, I had to replace the seat, get a new shorter stem, and 5" riser handlebars. But I've had to do that to every bike I've bought. I also used a new rear rim just because I wanted to. The front wheel was too tight, so had to adjust the bearing stop and also greased the bearings. The disc brakes suck, but with regen braking it's not a problem.
 
Here is a wide suspension fork of the Monark style, that is of the best quality made. http://sportsmanflyer.com
Wow I'm mean just wow these forks are the bees knees!
500 buck is what my hole bike cost but if I ever get a fork for my bike these will be IT!
Not sure about that friction thingy though. Looks like a shock could be mounted there, and that would probably work better, but you'd loose the retro look.
going to probly get one…running mxus 3kw hub. Think I could get drbass torque plates welded on the INSIDE of each dropout, and it will fit? that would get rid of the hardest part of setting up a hub motor. The triangle doesn't seem too large, however seems to fit ev bags.
The dr bass torque arms are pretty thick, but welded inside the dropouts should take up most of the space to run the mxus
I'm using the dock's TA's, there 3/8" thick. Yes there is plenty of room for them on the inside. In fack the axle is just long enough to get the nuts on the outside. Here is how I did mines.
View attachment 1
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I had a bit more to deal with because I had to make sure I could use all my gears. (Well at least the first five)
It's all in my build thread.
I would like to know too, what teslanv said.
Also, whats the turning like on those fat bikes?
Can you bike down the road with no hands?
The turning IS weird feeling, but I think it's just when the tires are aired way down.
At first I had the tires down to like 10psi and I notice when turning it wanted to pull the bars. I cant remember now which way :?
As far as no hands IDK. I always had my hand on the throttle. :twisted: I would assume there wouldn't be any issues when going strait
Wes & Diggler, how are you liking the MXUS 3000W on the Dolomite?
Mines is not the Dolomite, it's a Sikk fat bike cost $450 plus 100 shipping for me.
And IDK yet how I like the MXUS, I'm STILL building. :roll:
Today I pulled the stator out and cut out the phase wires.
The protective layer had a slice in it so I could see the wires.
So I popped the cover off and pealed the protective layer back and I couldn't see any exposed wire so I was going to push the bundle through to the inside. Then shrink wrap, but when I started pushing the axle sliced some of the hall wires insulation off.
So then I just cut the phase wires, pulled them out. Then cut the hall wires about 1&1/2 foot from the outside of the axle and pulled them through to the inside.
I'll shrink wrap where the insulation sliced off and leave the first 4 inches in the inside.

To make a long story short, it's a good thing I did all this though, because after I had the phase wires out I noticed a nick in two of them right where the snap ring had sliced the protective layer.

So just waiting on those wires I ordered from you the other day. :)

Here is my build thread, if anybody's interested. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=65638
I haven't updated the last couple day's. I will do that now.
 
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My lyen 45A sensorless controller came in! Waiting on my fat rear rack and pannier bags.

Welding the torque arms tommorow
 
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Just a few pics before and after welding. Just need to grind down the welds a bit and prime/paint.

waiting for my rear rack which i plan on mounting the controller on. Also waiting on some pannier bags because why not

what are peoples thoughts on running the stock brake cables? are the cables u get at local bike shops (bontrager, sram, shimano) better than what came on this turd?
 
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ground down the welds, primed with a self etching primer, and painted the dropouts with a chemical resistant automotive enamel. i might add a red pin stripe where the blue and black meet on the chainstays
 
Ive decided against the stock cables. Might go with some sram or shimanos. Found a pair for front and rear for like 10 shipped on ebay
 
Cables - look at Nashbar's which are Jagwire, as good as any I've used, for about $10 per pair; also, the housing was enough for two bikes.
 
Im running into options for 1.2 - 1.5mm cables? Running avid bb7 disk calipers- guess ill have to look into that more
 
danjpendleton said:
http://www.modernbike.com/product-2126223489?gclid=CLHy147Ph8QCFYY8gQod_DsA3A
Thanks for the link.
  • Have you actually received it and it works/fits well?
  • Any particular Pannier that you suggest that works well with this rack?
 
ill have to weld some nuts to the chainstays to fasten the rack to the bike. received the rack today so tommorow at work ill let u know how it fits
 
Here are the drawings for the MXUS XF40-45H 3000W Hub Motor, that is adapted for Fat Bikes. It has 170mm Between the axle flats, and an overall Axle width of 256mm, which is 35mm wider than the standard 3000W Motors. MXUS will even lace them into a Fat Rim for me.

View attachment WXT-XF40(170)-Model.pdf

On another note, my MultiStar's came in over the weekend. Looking forward to having 16Ah of 18S on Tap for the Fat Bike. :)
 
On advice from someone else I checked the front wheel bearings. They were too tight and didn't have any or much grease and wouldn't free spin more than a few rotations before stopping. Greasing and releasing the pressure on the bearings it seems to free spin forever. I'd suspect the same for the rear4 wheel, but I didn't use it. Might want to check BB bearings too.
 
wish that mxus wide axle motor was available before i laced up my hs3540 !!!
+1
I wish it was available before I laced my mxus 3000w v1
Took me a minute to figure out how to get everything to work together since the stock axle has to be centered.

Interesting to see they exited the cable on the outside of the dropout.

O and I wish I would have seen your rack first too.
I got one from salsa and it was 120 or so.
Yours looks beefier too.
I used steal bands with a rubber layer to mount the rack to the stays.
 
I am pretty sure the cable on the fat tire axle will exit the shaft just past the bearing. The drawing for the standard MXUS 3000W motor showed the cable coming out of the end of the axle, and that detail is incorrect as well.
 
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