My Cromotor E-Bike Build -> more like a moped

ridethelightning said:
ah thanks again madinn, that may explain it. so the wire colours are all over the place.

i do have a copy of the manual, but it still leaves you guessing a bit....

no problem.
I read something about a more comprehensive manual will be released soon. This is good because there are looots of settings.
 
ok ,so after more extensive throttle tweaking..... the hall effect throttle is giving normal readings in the throttle calibration screen and working as it should.

the magura however, was a bit more special.

it seems to be rammed up to 5v continuously.

with the black ground wires connected,(of throttle and controller) any combo of the brown and blue wires results in max throttle, as indicated on the throttle calibration screen...... which seems to suggest that +5v and wiper wires in the throttle are shorted somehow.

i still havnt opened it up to look yet, maybe that might prove informative.
 
Stielz said:
Wow this has to be one of the tidiest builds I've seen!

Would love to see some video if it in action

thank you

I will make some vids in early spring. My brother has a gopro cam. Now its to cold and everywhere salt and snow on the roads.
 
@ izeman

i have a gopro from my brother. thx.
First i have to check how it works and look for a software for cutting film material etc, i also need a youtube account.
After this is done, i will make some heroic vids 8)
The problem is the bike is not in Linz where i live but 70km away. Ride 70km with an ebike in this foggy wet weater is no pleasure, so i decided to wait at least for a sunny day.
I have no hurry.. :p
 
Merlin said:
today is sunny :D

you are lucky man. no sun at my place. its more foggy out there.

I not yet have the bike where i live. There is no workshop here or tools to build anything. Thats why i build it at my other home and i only stay there on weekends.
Currently i also have not much time to ride or make some tests, because i have to arrange my flat here in linz, looking for a job etc. Now this is more important for me.
 
madin88 said:
variable e-brake with brake light switch:

the brake light switch coming out on top of the box is a Wuxing chinese cut off switch. I changed this switch later to a better one because it didn't work well.
the green brake pot on the back is from an AWI thumb throttle (could not found one with 45degree angle in my electronic store)

-the variable e-brake with brake light switch is interesting for me
-please send some more pics from this great unit
-pics from backside and DIY tips are welcome
 
ridethelightning said:
ok ,so after more extensive throttle tweaking..... the hall effect throttle is giving normal readings in the throttle calibration screen and working as it should.

the magura however, was a bit more special.

it seems to be rammed up to 5v continuously.

with the black ground wires connected,(of throttle and controller) any combo of the brown and blue wires results in max throttle, as indicated on the throttle calibration screen...... which seems to suggest that +5v and wiper wires in the throttle are shorted somehow.

i still havnt opened it up to look yet, maybe that might prove informative.


ok so the problem was the grub screw in the magura that holds the pot in place was loose, allowing the pot to twist to the extent the wires would let it, not actually turning the pot, and also that the dial was rammed up to max from the assembly :?

so all works fine now..great throttle, probably made and assembled in china.....
 
ridethelightning said:
ok so the problem was the grub screw in the magura that holds the pot in place was loose, allowing the pot to twist to the extent the wires would let it, not actually turning the pot, and also that the dial was rammed up to max from the assembly :?

so all works fine now..great throttle, probably made and assembled in china.....

im glad you got it work. what voltage range do you now get in calibration screen? Was there a need to solder in a resistor to +5V or does it work without?
 
stats from last riding:

qmv7.jpg
 
Too cold here to ride my ebike! :D Roads are too icy... :(
35Wh/km ... Your consumption is very high! What's happen!
 
from this 30km there are about 5km cruising up a long 12% grade hill -> at full throttle :)
Than i also did some stop and go in boost mode to test wheelie. Im not good in this haha

I think on flat ground i will come in the range of about 25-30Wh/km at full throttle.
Will do some more tests in early spring. I also will do some brake tests.

At this cold temps its no fun and battery sag a lot. If battery s.o.c. falls below 50%, i cannot use boost mode anymore (110A batt), because controller starts to cut out very jerky on/off on/off on/off.. Set LVC a bit lower will help, but i don't want to damage my battery.
As far as i know Adaptto is working on a new firmware with soft cut off in the event of LVC. They told me this is not as simple as for example on infineon, because current measuremt works different with sine wave FOC.. Im no expert in this..
 
have you thought of using a little heater in your pelicases?: like a small electric blanket perhaps,running off dcdc converter...

i finally took my new creation for a test-ride last night, just cant get over the silent smoothness! like riding on an magic carpet.

im just using half my pack or so, 12s, for testing until im sure everything is running smoothly first though.

i think the mix of magura throttle and smooth start up from the adaptto make a big difference.

im really liking the shimano saint 4 pot brakes too. a bit pricey but theres no point in power if you dont have the confidence to use it :twisted:
 
ridethelightning said:
have you thought of using a little heater in your pelicases?: like a small electric blanket perhaps,running off dcdc converter...

yes i have think of it. heating to about 25-30°C if temp is below 15-20°C inside the box.
I think 30W per case would be enough and supply with extra LiPo battery or main battery. All removeable expect of the film heating elements.
A friend wants to learn how to program Arduino, so i gave him the mission a few days ago.

ride, is there a thread of your build?
 
madin88 said:
ridethelightning said:
have you thought of using a little heater in your pelicases?: like a small electric blanket perhaps,running off dcdc converter...

yes i have think of it. heating to about 25-30°C if temp is below 15-20°C inside the box.
I think 30W per case would be enough and supply with extra LiPo battery or main battery. All removeable expect of the film heating elements.
A friend wants to learn how to program Arduino, so i gave him the mission a few days ago.

ride, is there a thread of your build?
I wish there was..... i will post a build thread in the near future.. need to get my photo files sorted first.
 
Hey madin, how did you go getting your thermistor installed? i gather its on the neg. hall wire?

i went up a steep hill today, going home, and when i parked i inadvertantly touched the motor....very warm...warmer than i like.

though i was running 84v and had been playing with the phase amps settings...... :D

what sort of grade , distance and powerlevel gets your temps up to critical?
 
ridethelightning said:
Hey madin, how did you go getting your thermistor installed? i gather its on the neg. hall wire?

i went up a steep hill today, going home, and when i parked i inadvertantly touched the motor....very warm...warmer than i like.

though i was running 84v and had been playing with the phase amps settings...... :D

what sort of grade , distance and powerlevel gets your temps up to critical?

Yes, thermistor belongs to GND with second wire. Choose the right type of sensor in menu for right readout.
I also noticed a bit higher temps during the first rides, while speed was lower than on Infineon.
There are looots of settings to play with to enhance speed, efficiency, torque.. Such a controller needs special setup for various motors out there.

andreym sent me this for cromotor:

-----
Here is the values set on my original cromotor:
regen setup-> Torque rise 0111
min speed -> 003
traction settings ->pwm rise lim 0080
->spd smooth 20000
Advanced setup ->PWR timing 1.42
->PWR timing2 1.41
->OVS 003
->Wire R 092
->Motor KV 06632
->Wire R phc yes
-----

with this settings i would say i get normal temps and power consumption
it would be good if you flash to latest firmware to have all that functions

more infos are summarized in russia forum in "MINI-E, MAX-E - description of the settings, manuals, FAQ." thread (the latest paragraph is the most informativ about efficiency etc)

edit: http://translate.google.com/transla...t.ru/ussr/index.php/board,90.0.html&sandbox=1
 
thanks madin,
ill try all that and see if it makes a difference.

i checked out the russian forum site pages too....man they/we need some better translation!

i inadvertantly switched the thermistor type setting yesterday when playing round with settings, and then got no power, when i noticed the temp gage was maxed out
it made me realise what was going on...

just to be clear...thermistor in series on the GDN wire? what is the second wire you speak of?
 
ridethelightning said:
just to be clear...thermistor in series on the GDN wire? what is the second wire you speak of?

thermistor has 2 wires.
One belongs to GND (also motor halls) and the other wire to dedicated thermistor pin.

it is shown very clear in the manual where this dedicated thermistor pin is on the motor connector :wink:
 
thanks madin

the settings you listed have made all the difference.im now getting much lower temps.might be due to the new wire resistance settings?

theres still a few things i need to get to the bottom of though.

cant seem to get the speed ratio calibrated right,the trip meter is showing more trips than im making and the boost mode has no accelaration adjustment,jut has --- where the figures should be :?:

might be time to give andreym a call..... :D

iv now sorted out my photo file problems so ill be posting my build shortly.
 
ridethelightning said:
cant seem to get the speed ratio calibrated right,the trip meter is showing more trips than im making and the boost mode has no accelaration adjustment,jut has --- where the figures should be :?:

i think this --- is why boost mode has no acceleration delay :)
as for the speed ratio: this is different as with CA.
the circumference of your back wheel (in cm) divided by 23 will give you the right speed for cromotor.
it called "distance per electrical event". 23 comes from number of motorpoles devided by 2.


It would be great if some experienced ES member get this controller soon in hands and explain us more understandable the effect of all the possible special motor settings.
Maybe make dyno tests versus Infineon trapezoidal controller
Change PWR timing, wireR, hall Angle, OVS to figure out what settings are the best for highest efficiency.
 
so iv got the --- in boost to go away and be replaced by figures. i just pressed buttons < and > a bit....i think :) so now can adjust acceleration in boost.


i dug around some and found the 23 pole info somewhere.... that what i was doing wrong,using the 46,not23. (but i used wheel circumference in mm),and now im getting believable speedo.

i got the trip reset from above the stats screen......that seems to have sorted that some,, but i still dont fully understand how it counts and from when.

+1 for the extra research needed, would certainly save a lot of tinkering. best of all would be a more detailed manual from the manufacturer.

i believe i have a 10k thermistor already installed in my cromotor from methods. perhaps i can just wire that straight into the max-e pin? although i dont know if it compatable.
 
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