No pedals bike build blog (from scratch)

[agniusm]

Thanks mate. I guess it will be comfortable with longer wheel base for this build as it will be road bike and aimed speed 100kph. Will see.
I thought jumping in to makes something 18650 but the there are few who investigating like circuit fused design and snath dimple and few in between. If no one comes up with aivailable kit I might start thinking again in winter.

 

[agniusm]

Got some leds from eBay, will see how they will perform:

 

[agniusm]

Torque arms made, 10mm steel with clamping:

 

[izeman]

screws may be a bit short imho those thick clamping dropouts are the best way to handle a powerful hubmotor!

 

[agniusm]

Illustration only

 

[Wheazel]

Got any timeframe for the project? Looking forward to the testrun video!

 

[agniusm]

I was hoping for autumn but jobs dont wait, too much to do.

 

[agniusm]

 

[100volts+]

subscribed

 

[agniusm]

Got my front lights:

 

[litespeed]

Way cool!

 

[docnjoj]

Wow! Those look like they will blister the paint on cars and houses!
otherDoc

 

[agniusm]

Fitted:

 

[crea2k]

Holy crap, you know they are bright when they look bright in broad daylight !.

 

[agniusm]

Yeah, i had to take a photo from this angle cause it was impossible to make out the light:

At the bottom of the photo you can see reflection of LED pattern

 

[crea2k]

I hope you have a high / low beam for the sake of cars coming the other way lol, they'll be taking you out as they cant see

 

[agniusm]

Not yet. Perhaps I could lower voltage to dim those lights? Doubt it but worth investigating

 

[ARod1993]

Not yet. Perhaps I could lower voltage to dim those lights? Doubt it but worth investigating

Do those come with some sort of controller, or do they just run straight off the batteries? In the latter case, you might be able to slap together a little half-bridge controller for them that would let you control the brightness fairly easily. You'd need a few resistors, capacitors, and diodes, a 74HC14 chip (six Schmitt trigger inverters), a couple of op-amps, a couple of MOSFETs, a breadboard, and a pot. I could bang out a circuit diagram for you in a few hours if you're interested.

 

[100volts+]

I hope there is enough clearance for the front suspension to compress all the way without the tire scrapping the edge of the controller. I've made that mistake before.

 

[agniusm]

I hope there is enough clearance for the front suspension to compress all the way without the tire scrapping the edge of the controller. I've made that mistake before.

Its not a controller Its radiator for controllers liquid cooling and no, it does not hit it at full compression, got that right

Do those come with some sort of controller, or do they just run straight off the batteries? In the latter case, you might be able to slap together a little half-bridge controller for them that would let you control the brightness fairly easily. You'd need a few resistors, capacitors, and diodes, a 74HC14 chip (six Schmitt trigger inverters), a couple of op-amps, a couple of MOSFETs, a breadboard, and a pot. I could bang out a circuit diagram for you in a few hours if you're interested.

I bet it does cause input voltage is 12-36V and it is sealed completely

 

[ARod1993]

I hope there is enough clearance for the front suspension to compress all the way without the tire scrapping the edge of the controller. I've made that mistake before.

Its not a controller Its radiator for controllers liquid cooling and no, it does not hit it at full compression, got that right

Do those come with some sort of controller, or do they just run straight off the batteries? In the latter case, you might be able to slap together a little half-bridge controller for them that would let you control the brightness fairly easily. You'd need a few resistors, capacitors, and diodes, a 74HC14 chip (six Schmitt trigger inverters), a couple of op-amps, a couple of MOSFETs, a breadboard, and a pot. I could bang out a circuit diagram for you in a few hours if you're interested.

I bet it does cause input voltage is 12-36V and it is sealed completely

Does brightness vary with input voltage? If so, then you could build a DC-DC converter out of the components I just described that would let you swing the voltage between those endpoints reasonably reliably by running a switching frequency around 20-30kHz; I'd be happy to put together a diagram of something like that for you. If not, then you could still build something that works (and would actually be a bit simpler), but you'd want the switching frequency down around a couple of hundred Hz or so (10-100 times slower than the switching frequency of the DC-DC converter included in the light housing) and you might want to leave off some of the smoothing components.

 

[agniusm]

Thanks. it does not vary in brightness. tested with 12, 24 and 36v.

 

[agniusm]

 

[docnjoj]

First class workmanship as usual, Agnius.
otherDoc

 

[agniusm]

Finished shaping the swing arm:

These gonna be fat dropouts. Some milling left to do: