Qulbix Raptor 140

litespeed said:
Rix said:
Mammalian04 said:
Well that's scary... It makes me want to think twice about the hard landings.

This is an excellent example of the great characteristics of cromo steel, when the steel lets go, it does so slowly and not all at once. This is one reason why Stealth uses cromolly steel sheets for their frames. Don't be alarmed guys. this kind of failure warns the rider. Gives plenty of time to correct.


Rix,

Sorry i respectfully disagree but cromoly steel usually breaks not slowly crack. I think your confused with mild steel. That is why most roll cages/tube frames use mild steel because they bend and don't break. Crome is harder, stronger so it can be used as lighter material but not ideal for all cases. Does really bad in high vibration areas, ask me how I know. Well at least mild steel does good until it work hardens and then anything can happen.

In my opinion I think the frames are OK for crome but think the seat mount should be mild steel sized accordingly and would
never have this issue.

Tom

Hey Tom, you are correct about mild steel and I agree with you. It bends and bends because its not brittle and generally doesn't have very much carbon content in it. I have confirmed with Stealth that the triangle seat sub frame made for their bikes is out of cromolly, sheet plate. I don't know what the chromo content % is though. The way the frame is cooled after welding allows it to not be brittle like it would be with a quick oil quench or with water. Anyway, my point was, I have seen multiple sub frame failures and none of them were quick, snap in half type failures. The were slow cracks that gradually grew longer and wider with continued use. Now don't get me wrong, if allowed to go on long enough, the frame will fatigue and break off completely.
 
Hi guys.

Regarding the cases where the bicycle subframe had broken: This issue is very rear (about 1%). It's probably a combination of very long seat post, riding style - commuting (always placing full weight on the seat on the bumps ) and the terrain. But nonetheless, our frames have a 2 year warranty, and in all cases the (y. 2014) subframes were/will be replaced. Our lates design is extra reinforced in that particular area.

If you have any kind of issue, please send us an email to info@qulbix.com, and we can sort it out asap.

Have a nice day,
Ziva
 
Raining season is coming up, does anyone know which fenders work the best for the 140 with moto seat?
alot of rain water hit into my face when passing through grass and I am looking for something that can stop most of them.
Any idea guys?
 
BCTECH said:
Raining season is coming up, does anyone know which fenders work the best for the 140 with moto seat?
alot of rain water hit into my face when passing through grass and I am looking for something that can stop most of them.
Any idea guys?

In the winter the raid and mud is a huge problem, ground stays moist for days after it rains, constantly throwing water and mud at you.

Only way to solve it is with a full rear bicycle fender like, one that goes all the way around the rear tire or you will have a muddy back , and with that USD-8 fork you will have to make something for it as that type of fork doesn't have the brace like a normal fork to hold any mudguard.

Some have mounted the full rear bicycle fender on their bikes here.

I don't know what you can do with that USD-8 fork, you would have to attach something to the plastic guards already on the fork.

Without this it just isn't fun to ride in any wet conditions in the winter, which is most days as the sun isn't strong enough to dry out the ground.
 
Offroader said:
BCTECH said:
Raining season is coming up, does anyone know which fenders work the best for the 140 with moto seat?
alot of rain water hit into my face when passing through grass and I am looking for something that can stop most of them.
Any idea guys?

In the winter the raid and mud is a huge problem, ground stays moist for days after it rains, constantly throwing water and mud at you.

Only way to solve it is with a full rear bicycle fender like, one that goes all the way around the rear tire or you will have a muddy back , and with that USD-8 fork you will have to make something for it as that type of fork doesn't have the brace like a normal fork to hold any mudguard.

Some have mounted the full rear bicycle fender on their bikes here.

I don't know what you can do with that USD-8 fork, you would have to attach something to the plastic guards already on the fork.

Without this it just isn't fun to ride in any wet conditions in the winter, which is most days as the sun isn't strong enough to dry out the ground.

totally agree. its pretty annoying riding in that kind of condition.
In fact, the rear might be not so important to me. the mud or anything can go all to my back not affecting me riding. My most concern is the front as water goes up so high, mud is less coz heavier, but still it bothers me so much when all keep hitting to my face decreases my visibility
on the usd-8, can't something attach to the bottle crown like others mtb fork?
 
to mount a front fender on a usd suspension fork such as dnm usd8..
you could use a "toby henderson enterprises" THE fender mtb type that attaches under the lower fork crown:
TLFDF-01CL_large.jpg

https://vsiproducts.com/collections/fenders/products/proline-front-fender-dh

will not keep you clean but keeps some mud/ water out of the eyes (wear eye protection as well)..

or a full fender could be mounted to the lower fork legs such as where the fork guards mount and the fender would travel with the wheel on suspension compression..
example :
14364743_1259156147436041_5319881491815444307_n.jpg

(not my bike/ apologies for the sacrilege)

however, you would not want to use a very large / bulky fender that could interfere with suspension travel..

Offroader said:
BCTECH said:
Raining season is coming up, does anyone know which fenders work the best for the 140 with moto seat?
alot of rain water hit into my face when passing through grass and I am looking for something that can stop most of them.
Any idea guys?

In the winter the rain and mud is a huge problem, ground stays moist for days after it rains, constantly throwing water and mud at you.

Only way to solve it is with a full rear bicycle fender like, one that goes all the way around the rear tire or you will have a muddy back , and with that USD-8 fork you will have to make something for it as that type of fork doesn't have the brace like a normal fork to hold any mudguard.

Some have mounted the full rear bicycle fender on their bikes here.

I don't know what you can do with that USD-8 fork, you would have to attach something to the plastic guards already on the fork.

Without this it just isn't fun to ride in any wet conditions in the winter, which is most days as the sun isn't strong enough to dry out the ground.
 
Here is a post for someone who mounted front and rear bicycle fenders.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=949367#p949367

This is what you really want if you don't want constant mud and water thrown at you. For the front, even small fenders like this will stop almost anything from getting thrown at you. This is what i use.

p4pb11612619.jpg


The other thing you have to really consider is that in the winter if your roads are salted, the salt will get into the melting snow and will get in all your connectors including throttle and short them. I had my throttle get stuck on full because of this. It also got into my halls and shorted them. Lucky this is something temporary and will clear itself when it dries.

That front tire will constantly throw water up at your bike if you have any wires exposed underneath.

And you really do need to worry about what fender you use on the front wheel because it will easily hit the bike, even my small fender hits on full bottom out but since it is just flexible plastic it isn't a big deal. You have almost no clearance.
 
thanks all guys !
I might need to check out at the bike shop on "THE" fender and see how it mounts to the crown, and hope it can stay firmly
The small one Offroader has is very interesting, very compact if it can cover a lot.
problem I think is unless I buy both and use in order to know the protection level I need. in general concept, the bigger the better, but it might be different on this thing.

I think I will seal my motor better before I going into snow, I am not sure how hard salt will be on other parts. spokes might be need some protection as well. I think better also to wash the whole bike after riding in snow.
 
I own both mudguards, and home made version of the smaller one. Pretty sure they were originall known as mucky nuts guards.

There's templates on the internet so you can make your own for virtually nothing. If you are not satisfied with that, buy the guard.

The One Guard has a bolt that goes through the guard, with a rubber bung above it and a nut above that. The bung and bolt arrangement gets inserted into the crown and then the bolt is tigtened, compressing the bung which compresses against the streerer wall, holding it there.

They stay in place just fine. I like the One guard better than the other Topeak? M1 alternative which works the same way - its wider at the steerer end and is more effective for wider tyres.
 
Since i commute in every condition i can tell you only full fenders work......especially with these moped tires.
They will pick up everything and throw it after you.

These litte wannabe fenders only work for the sunday offroad ride.
Its only for the vision in my opinion. ........your face/helmet/goggles will stay cleaner, thats it.
The water and mud will hit your legs/body/bike with the little ones.
They catch only what is thrown up in the air at the front.

Qulbix, what is the maximum seat post length and the maximum rider weight to prevent the seat braket from snapping?
I commute so i need to sit on this bike.
Till the new braket arrives i stay on the bike and it its very exhausting.
It never was a problem with my 2.xkg cannondale aluminium frame.
It got nearly 15000km under the same conditions without any issue.
The Qulbix failed at 6000.

I cant change the riding conditions.
 
Hey Merlin, how do you like those hi bend handle bars? Thinking I may need some for myself. Concern is, if bars are too tall, the bike will push in corners. Not an issue on pavement, but loose offroad terrain could be an issue. What do you think?
 
I like my bars higher up for comfort reasons, never liked that leaned over position on my cross country bike. I never thought it would make much of a difference in the handling.

I also thought the more leaned over position was for pedaling.
 
you ask me if i like it?....I LOVE IT.
to bad that i can find only 2 Handlebars with 80mm Rise. One is cheap (picture) and one comes around 70€

my actual one is a spank spike 800 with 50mm rise and i wish i could ride my 80mm again. but he is frocked :D
the biggest problem is my fuckin bling bling blue Hope Top Level crown. no Options for Spacers to get a better upright seat position.

riding slow and long with dog and girl hurts my wrists. same on a 200HP sportsbike. riding under the law hurts everything. you must move and "live" on your bike.
it feels "rusting" my joints and bones riding slow and legal :oops:

I like to ride really much in standing position. there helps a higher handlebar also. for offroad absolutley no problem(for me)... handlebars are a religion to anyone itself.
you must feel comfortable and if you are sensible to that, you are a poor guy like me. 1-2° more or less back sweep of the bar can make huge differences.

some guys dont care. they ride everything and dont feel that much difference. if you one of those, be happy :)

as offroader said. for effective pedal power you need an "ovelean" position....

beach-crusier - upright 100%
city bike - upright 80-90%
trekking bike - upright 50-60%
race bike - upright 30%

i think on a motocross bike you are near to a beach cruiser position :D

VO3-DVD-1-cover-1.jpg



so....as high as you can ;P
 
ziltoid81 said:
Since i commute in every condition i can tell you only full fenders work......especially with these moped tires.
They will pick up everything and throw it after you.

These litte wannabe fenders only work for the sunday offroad ride.
Its only for the vision in my opinion. ........your face/helmet/goggles will stay cleaner, thats it.
The water and mud will hit your legs/body/bike with the little ones.
They catch only what is thrown up in the air at the front.

Qulbix, what is the maximum seat post length and the maximum rider weight to prevent the seat braket from snapping?
I commute so i need to sit on this bike.
Till the new braket arrives i stay on the bike and it its very exhausting.
It never was a problem with my 2.xkg cannondale aluminium frame.
It got nearly 15000km under the same conditions without any issue.
The Qulbix failed at 6000.

I cant change the riding conditions.

When you said full fenders, do you mean something like "THE" fender most people recommended or the one Merlin shows on his bike?
I don't care much water/mud going to my body but not the face. it is really bothering as they constantly hitting your eyes, nose and month. making me have to slow down or even stop to clean.
They do go up very high.

I noticed that you have problem on the seat, have you considering changing to moto seat? I super like my moto seat, it is very comfortable, everyday few hours ride feels nothing. same comfort as my home couch, bicycle seat is very painful for long ride.
if you ride long time a day, that's might be a good choice. also harder to have it bent
 
Merlin said:
you ask me if i like it?....I LOVE IT.
to bad that i can find only 2 Handlebars with 80mm Rise. One is cheap (picture) and one comes around 70€

my actual one is a spank spike 800 with 50mm rise and i wish i could ride my 80mm again. but he is frocked :D
the biggest problem is my fuckin bling bling blue Hope Top Level crown. no Options for Spacers to get a better upright seat position.

riding slow and long with dog and girl hurts my wrists. same on a 200HP sportsbike. riding under the law hurts everything. you must move and "live" on your bike.
it feels "rusting" my joints and bones riding slow and legal :oops:

I like to ride really much in standing position. there helps a higher handlebar also. for offroad absolutley no problem(for me)... handlebars are a religion to anyone itself.
you must feel comfortable and if you are sensible to that, you are a poor guy like me. 1-2° more or less back sweep of the bar can make huge differences.

some guys dont care. they ride everything and dont feel that much difference. if you one of those, be happy :)

as offroader said. for effective pedal power you need an "ovelean" position....

beach-crusier - upright 100%
city bike - upright 80-90%
trekking bike - upright 50-60%
race bike - upright 30%

i think on a motocross bike you are near to a beach cruiser position :D


so....as high as you can ;P

I have the exact same spank spike 800 with 50mm rise, though its high enough and now I regret. even I put all the spacers it wouldn't make up the height
where did you get your 80mm rise? very hard to find
 
yep very hard.
sometimes i think about trying a motocross handlebar like the renthal stuff.

80mm riser bar:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/de/de/kore-rivera-riserbar-lenker-/rp-prod105450


how it looks:

IL0A8515.JPG
 
Merlin said:
you ask me if i like it?....I LOVE IT.
to bad that i can find only 2 Handlebars with 80mm Rise. One is cheap (picture) and one comes around 70€

my actual one is a spank spike 800 with 50mm rise and i wish i could ride my 80mm again. but he is frocked :D
the biggest problem is my fuckin bling bling blue Hope Top Level crown. no Options for Spacers to get a better upright seat position.

riding slow and long with dog and girl hurts my wrists. same on a 200HP sportsbike. riding under the law hurts everything. you must move and "live" on your bike.
it feels "rusting" my joints and bones riding slow and legal :oops:

I like to ride really much in standing position. there helps a higher handlebar also. for offroad absolutley no problem(for me)... handlebars are a religion to anyone itself.
you must feel comfortable and if you are sensible to that, you are a poor guy like me. 1-2° more or less back sweep of the bar can make huge differences.

some guys dont care. they ride everything and dont feel that much difference. if you one of those, be happy :)

as offroader said. for effective pedal power you need an "ovelean" position....

beach-crusier - upright 100%
city bike - upright 80-90%
trekking bike - upright 50-60%
race bike - upright 30%

i think on a motocross bike you are near to a beach cruiser position :D

http://ww

so....as high as you can ;P[/quote]

NIce answer, I can actually visualize your response. :D
 
This is why I don't understand why you guys cut your steerer tube down.

I never cut my steerer tube on my forks. This gives me like 45-50mm of spacers to raise the handlebar. Then I use a 40mm riser bar.

I estimate my handlebars are about 80-90mm raised.

Actually, I never cut my steerer tube because I wanted to raise the handlebars as high as I can get them to try different handlebar heights. Since I loved the high highest setting right from the beginning I never even bothered to lower it any.


 
BCTECH said:
When you said full fenders, do you mean something like "THE" fender most people recommended or the one Merlin shows on his bike?
I don't care much water/mud going to my body but not the face. it is really bothering as they constantly hitting your eyes, nose and month. making me have to slow down or even stop to clean.
They do go up very high.

I noticed that you have problem on the seat, have you considering changing to moto seat? I super like my moto seat, it is very comfortable, everyday few hours ride feels nothing. same comfort as my home couch, bicycle seat is very painful for long ride.
if you ride long time a day, that's might be a good choice. also harder to have it bent

Yes merlins solution is the only one that really works, i got the same sort of fenders.
If you dont care about getting dirty clothes then the smaller fenders will suit you.

I commute in rain also, so i need a clean solution.
The bike stays cleaner, my clothes stay clean........

I cant use the moto seat cause i need to pedal when i commute in winter.
And i WANT to pedal anyways.
The moto seat is way to low to pedal effectively......if you take a good bicycle seat, the comfort is not really a problem.
 
Hey guys,

Just a few questions. I'm finally buying more of the bicycle side components now, and I don't know a lot about bicycle stuff. So some specs first:

Raptor 140 Chassis with the 165mm dropouts
QS 205 50H V3 motor
Warp 9 21x1.85" front rim, 18x2.15" rear rim (waiting for these to show up in mail)
Shinko 241 21x2.75" front tire, 18x3.00" rear tire

I have a 3 ring and 5 ring freewheel for the rear, also waiting for them to show up in the mail.

and I weigh about 205lbs.

1. How many of you use a 10.5" x 3.5" rear shock? Any using a Cane Creek DB? I was looking at getting the CCDB + 400lbs coil. Any issues with length throwing off geometry or the shock hitting the chassis?

2. I was looking at getting an older set of new Manitou Dorado's 27.5". Anyone here running air suspension forks?

3. Anyone else running a TruVativ Hammerschmidt AM with crossbreak's chainring mod? I like the integral design, and being able to put a 38T chainring and then have 61T at the push of a lever sounds nice. Pricey though, although not as pricey as the Schlumpf.
 
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