Schwinn/32 10 Build Conclusions

Forgot the LVC, returned to using 12S :!: what have I done :?: ; switched the polarity; the motor is still lifeless yet a whitesh or red light in the ESC blinks in a continous manner, color depends on the polarity(no chirp). There is no LED change when going from mid-throttle to zero throttle. Going to look at the ESC to motor Andersons with a magnifier and give 'em another tug test.
 
SoSauty said:
Just know we're getting warmer :!: what have I done :?: ; switched the polarity; the motor is still lifeless yet a little white or red light in the ESC blinks, color depends on the polarity(no chirp). Going to look at the ESC to motor Andersons with a magnifier and give another tug test.
Click to expand...

I had exact same issue as your having when i first hooked up my system, the problem was exactly as Matt has outlined in above post, the lil plug from throttle interface i was using at the time (not Matts) was arse about flipped it around and she worked. Guaranteed it will be something simple and you will kick yourself when you sxolve the problem...dont you hate that LoL

KiM
 
Yup, I hate it, but I'll hate it even more if it's sunny come tomorrow and still don't have ignition. Even put my number on the batt box '55'. Never been 40+mph on a bicycle :twisted: Oh, I can probably still handle a wheelie a lttle bit, used to take the Schwinn Stingray around the block, up/down curbs, on the back wheel. (knick name; wee wheelie) Best to take a break and climb into bed. So close, so close. . .

(Edit update: not time to push a panic button for a few days; it's cloudy, chilly 40s for CA today, gonna watch football, take it easy, may call Castle Mon, got another issue to discuss with 'em as well. The Andersons can appear seated but fool me, and I don't trust my soldering with the copper motor wires, wife gets jealous of my bikes if I don't make progress remodeling her kitchen :wink: )
 
Wow, what a bummer.

It is something simple. It just has to be.

It sounds like the LV cutoff is sensing too low voltage, but you mentioned using 12S.

This is truely weird. After correcting two separate issues, I would have assumed it would run now.

Matt
 
ev_nred said:
the max voltage is 50v he is ruining 44 volts still room for one more cell
Click to expand...

No there isn't. 44 volts is "Nominal" voltage for a 12S pack. However, they are 50.4 volts hot off the charger. Everyone merely calls a 12S pack "44 volts". However, they are really 50 volt packs when charged.

Matt
 
A bit low tec here (yet), no digicam (do you mean video??). I can play with my samsung camera but am unfamiliar with the video aspect. 12 cells @4.1V = 49.2volts close enough to max voltage. May have more time on hand Tuesday. Castle handed me off after I explained the throttle interface to him. He may have thought I knew more about electronics than he, LOL, and wanted to pass me off to the head tec who was busy. Had Matts' interface thread memorized which by the way is clearly/simply explained. That's good as I have no RC background.

Guess I could intall the USB program, yet Matt took care of the programming.
 
Glad you 2 are around, I goofed something simple, not as simple to find my goof :roll: Talked w/ Tom of Castle Creations this am. He indicated that the little orange wire from the HV160 lines up with the white coming from interface but shouldn't hurt if both polarities tried. That the ESC doesn't chirp indicates a signal problem going into the HV160; also, with 2X connectors to motor, there's little chance of there being zero connection yet motor sits lifeless; also there's continuity from batt to above main connector; I'm focusing now on interface/ESC but keeping my ears up for a wiring goofawh.
Lipo7.jpg

For 12S. I'm connecting the red lead from 1 Lipo and a black lead from other Lipo. This proved not true!
Lipo5.jpg

For power to interface; soldered into main wires & to 2 pin blk-blk, red-red: for ESC signal wht-org, red-red, blk-brwn
Lipo6.jpg

The main power wires from the large Andersons bend under 180degree and lead down into ESC.

Warren has a great wiring diagram on his tutorial page.
http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/e-bent/rc_drive/tutorial.htm

Tom also stated that the HV160 mosfets are stronger than the smaller Castle ESCs which validates what Luke indicated way earlier.
 
Ypedal said:
On the battery packs.. what's the black and red loop on the top of each pack ?... ( seems like that would be a dead short... but it can't be or you would have a serious KFF going on there..)
Click to expand...

Some time back they (don't know who They are though!) decided to make split battery packs for shipping requirements in some countries. Meaning that a 6s battery would actually be 2-3s batteries to meet shipping their requirements. The jumper connects the 2-3s packs in series to make a single 6s pack. They just added a few grams that were otherwise not needed. If something were to happen then the voltage would only be 11.1 volts in stead of 22.2.



Safety first!!!

Tom
 
The Venom Lipos have an extra pair of wires to connect to activate: I've cross connectted those to get the 12S. (Believe I observed Dogmanz do this with his pack at Tucson DR **This turns out to be incorrect!.) CA doesn't boot, (Yes! after fully seating the Anderson) I've never used a CA before. I questioned the shunt issue with Ren Bikes, the new female employee handed the issue off to Justin, he thought the CA shunt would handle 90amps briefly, but yes I thought the Standard 45amp shunt was in question.

KFF :?: Killer F--en Fire :?:

OK, gonna get a bowl of ceral and spend some time on this.
 
Quote " . No! CA doesn't boot, " ...

That right there is problem no.1 to sort out !!!!

there are a big + and - on each side of the CA.. the " BATT " side has a 3rd ( the middle one with 6 smaller wires inside ) black wire going to the display...

When you hook up the battery to the main + and - wires of the BATT side of the shunt, the CA display should come on and remain on... if it's not .. there is a problem here..
 
KFF, funnier than the kittens trying to get my bowl of ceral now :mrgreen:
Lipo7.jpg


Lipo8.jpg

And . .. the CA boots up showing :shock: 23.9V
 
Ypedal, progress made. The CA now reads 48.1V. The HV160 started with a red blink then went to off-whitesh. Had throttle set half way at power up, went to zero throttle, tried the throttle back and forth, nothing other than continuous blinking.
 
OK, tried powering up zero & full throttle. Getting red blinks at full, white blinks at zero. At full it blinks 3-3-2 red, then repeats.

No chirp.
 
This troubleshooting is fabulous guys, I'm learning so much!

Still, hope you figure it out soon, it's got to be driving you nuts.

Katou
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top