So I bought a lathe...and made Hub Motors

rodgah said:
Are you still evolving your design LEVer, or are you happy with where you're at?

Maybe custom rewind's to better suit 12s (less death defying speed) :mrgreen:

If you use the VESC, I believe it has rpm-limiting feature so you can set the max speed. A wye rewind or more stator poles will slow down the motor. Inboard's latest motor design has a lot of poles. Watch at 0:41.

[youtube]w0UP--b_Ky0[/youtube]


But I think people that buy electric longboards wants it to go fast. Otherwise, they would just buy an E-scooter with handle bars.
 
LEVer said:
rodgah said:
Are you still evolving your design LEVer, or are you happy with where you're at?

Maybe custom rewind's to better suit 12s (less death defying speed) :mrgreen:

If you use the VESC, I believe it has rpm-limiting feature so you can set the max speed. A wye rewind or more stator poles will slow down the motor. Inboard's latest motor design has a lot of poles. Watch at 0:41.


I think the high pole motors give better low speed control, like the 20~something pole outrunners they use for camera gimbals.

like that slow take off at the end.
 
LEVer just picked up my CarVon hubmotors. Are the wires supposed to come out facing back? So we just have to bend them towards VESC?
 
^^^ Yes. Or you can use extension wires.

s-l225.jpg

I put them inside a wire mesh.

sleeving.jpg

Then use cable clamps like these and attach them using the truck screws.

vinyl-dipped.jpg



The gap in motor/truck bracket is the only place where I can route the wires.
 
tremendo, may I suggest putting washers on those truck lock nuts of yours to spread out the load. Better yet, get a drop through plate:

attachment.php


https://www.silverfishlongboarding.com/forum/longboard-and-skateboarding-trucks-bushings/362229-drop-through-reinforcement-plates-where-can-i-get-them.html
 
Thanks LEVer. For sure will follow your recommendations. I am posting some pictures using Landyachtz Switchblade with drop through mount. Ground clearance doesn't look too bad. Will keep you posted.
 

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Senor said:
rmrf said:
What is the recommended configuration for V2 hub motors + VESC?
6s
8s
10s
12s :twisted: ??!

LEVer said:
I would highly recommend going 8s or 10s. The 18650 life span gets shortened quickly when you consistently ask it for max amps, much like using Li-poly with only 20C discharge. 8s or 10s will bring it to manageable levels. You will also start smoother because of the higher voltage and avoid annoying cutoffs from the Esc or Bms.

Top speed on anything over 6s is going to be really fast. However, 8s or 10s would mean less current and a lighter load on the ESC and all of your connections.


This is not true. For a given motor torque, the load on the mosfets is equal regardless of pack voltage. This is because motor torque is proportional to current alone, and the mosfets see and control current by acting as a bucking type power supply to trade voltage for phase current by using the motors own windings at the bucking circuits inductor.
 
CSN said:
watch the urethane fly off these hub motors at speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XptB3rC7EZs

That was incredible when both came off simultaneously and he rides through it.
 
My wheel came off also, but much lower speed. I fixed it and now I'm planing in to a better design :D
My own build not pedis/LEVer's motors

I actually wanted to ask how many amps your dual setup draws? Maybe you know it for 10s?
 
I have not ridden my Dual on 10s but when I briefly tried 12s, I went 27mph at 20A or 10A each motor. I was only halfway on the throttle.

Some that use my Dual Hubs with Enertion's 10s have not tripped the 40A fuse, although they ride on flatlands.
 
Nordle said:
My wheel came off also, but much lower speed. I fixed it and now I'm planing in to a better design :D


The way you fasten the tires that was bound to happen.

Think about fitting the tire to a thin aluminium/steel tube with suitable glue!
that goes with a light press-fit + screws with screwlock onto your motor
(if you don't want to directly glue the tire to the motor)
 
Just fixed it with some srews and a bit epoxy^^ will last till v2! else epoxy!
NGV recently said on a fb post: ''We already fixed the problem with our custom wheels by laying a mix of epoxy resin and cotton fibres between urethane and aluminium core'' sounds interesting..

btw, how many bearings do you use? skirt bearing + 1 or 2 skate bearings? freshair is using only 1, am I right?
 
Nordle said:
..

btw, how many bearings do you use? skirt bearing + 1 or 2 skate bearings? freshair is using only 1, am I right?

1 skirt bearing and 1 skate bearing for me. I'm not sure about freshair's.

Finally got some anodized motor sleeves:



Anodized Single Hub (2).jpg
 
The thing though is, they make the scratches from the road more obvious than the raw aluminum.

No worries, you can buy new sleeves just like you can buy new wheels from me. :mrgreen:
 
Hey silviasol, nice to see you back.

I've pushed out the wheels farther out, allowing increase stability and also for me to offer a Single Hub. The motors were never completely inside the wheels, the motor is too long.

So far, this is the only motor I've tested that can consistently take the heat. There are other smaller and shorter hub motors, but they are still in prototype. Those other motors also go slow, IMO.
 
LOL
If you take the board out on those frozen pavements you are a bloody hero man.
Must say, they do look well cool.
 
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