soldering shunt

[jonathan75]

Thanks D8veh.

It's this one here: http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2013-CX-G2DJ.24BUM
Photos here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7ym9WvyF_P7VzFyUEJicmpGOFk/view?usp=sharing
and here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7ym9WvyF_P7TjRIZWV0STE2WDQ/view?usp=sharing
It's very small as you can see.

 

[jonathan75]

Soldering on a resistor worked well, the bike has much more kick. It's measuring 18.3a max instead of 15, and goes up hills considerably better on throttle alone, and using power levels in the middle of the display's range. The controller was moderately-quite hot when I got home.

 

[d8veh]

I'm pretty sure that the controller has a thermistor in it to potect it from geting too hot, but obviously, the more current you push through it, the hotter it will get. My experience says that 18 amps is OK for an enclosed controller, provided that your motor is less than 270 rpm. The small high-speed moors like the 328 rpm Q100s take the maximum current for most of the time, even at 15A, so the controller soon overheats if it's enclosed. How far you can go with the current depends on balancing all these factors.

 

[jonathan75]

Thank you for that D8veh, that makes sense - the controller seems to be just about coping with things. Would it be OK to run that 36v controller I've modded with the added resistor, at 48v, provided I reduce the amperage through the LCD display amp reduction option, say to 12 or 13a? I'm hoping to buy a 48v battery to run alternately with my 36v battery. Obviously an S12S controller would be better, but BMSBattery are taking their time shipping it out.

The controller is this one http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2013-CX-G2DJ.24BUM

Ty

 

[d8veh]

I don't know if that one can run at 48v - probably not. The LCD might also have a problem with a 48v unless it has a voltage seting in the options because it gets its power directly from the battery.

 

[fesanand]

Before opening a new thread I wanted to recycle this one for a quick question.

I bought a new controller which is exactly the same model than I had before. When I opened the new one to sold the shunt I encountered that the new controller has a slightly different Shunt-bars, they're flat in the middle. I've seen many controller shunt pictures but none like this.
My question is if I can mod it as if a normal shunt were

 

[Icewrench]

Round wire ,flat wire or curly que shunt a bit of sloder will up the amps.
Go for it.

 

[fesanand]

Round wire ,flat wire or curly que shunt a bit of sloder will up the amps.
Go for it.

Thanks!