The Unofficial 'CroMotor' Owners Tech-Tips Thread

Small picture of the wheel I ll post a bigger one tmr.

rodaf.jpg
 
Bicycle tires just aren't looking the same to me anymore...
 
gensem said:
Small picture of the wheel I ll post a bigger one tmr.

NICE gensem! Did you get your swingarm fixed?

-JD
 
oatnet said:
gensem said:
Small picture of the wheel I ll post a bigger one tmr.

NICE gensem! Did you get your swingarm fixed?

-JD

The picture is still from the old frame (broken).

But I got the swing arm fixed twice, hehe

New CFD-2000 frame (seller replaced it for me :) ) arrived today and a genesis v2100 with Farfle´s swing arm shoulda drop at home next week.
 
dangerzone said:
gensem said:
Small picture of the wheel I ll post a bigger one tmr.

rodaf.jpg

Excellent job. What is the spokes length..?


I think they are 109mm, its not a perfect fit but it works much better than the first wheel build.

Will probably do another one this saturday.

17" 1.40 rim with 9g 109mm spokes and a cromotor using 2.5 michelin pilot sporty tires.
 
dangerzone said:
gensem said:
They are 9g

Oh, what I meant was the diameter of spokes... They are 109mm long but are they 3mm wide in diameter or 4mm..? And which bike are they usually put on..? ;)


Yes, they are 9g... and they are motorcycle spokes (UCP, not stainless steel), as far as I can tell regular bicycles use 15g-13g spokes. JRH has 12g spoke but I think you would need a washer in the cromotor flange.

8 G / 4mm
9 G / 3.5mm
10 G / 3.2mm
11 G / 2.9mm
12 G / 2.6mm
13 G / 2.3mm
14 G / 2.0mm
15 G /1.8mm
 
dangerzone said:
Andje said:
Bicycle tires just aren't looking the same to me anymore...

Are you sure you would rely on a bicycle tire at speeds over 60km/h or in tight turns..? Cause bicycle tire rubber just can't hold... much.

Hah! I have relied on them at 100km/h commuting for about 8000km and they have been fine; 18$ Tioga 1.95's with about 90$ worth of tube kevlar tape and rim tape inside it. I would expect them to burn on the race track with tight turns as you say.
What I meant was that there has been a trend just recently of using these moped rims and mbike tires; they look totally badass and I'm having trouble enjoying the look of kenda flames or holle rollers the same way. There is no doubt these are safer, maybe cheaper, but heavier and won't fit every frame; bike tires have been getting a bad rap as we push these things faster, but what Luke does with his 3-400 pound "bike"+rider weight on the track is not comparable to many other peoples situation. If you are running a hub motor on the street as a commuter I would be upgrading to get the stronger rim, not the stronger rubber, but that's just me; I have found the rim to be the week point in my hard tail builds, with a DS bike I wouldn't even be worried. Is there ANYONE besides Luke that can really say they raced their ebike to the point that the side walls of their tires failed? I will take my hat off to them as well, for I am in awe.
 
Alan B said:
Those pilot sporty tires look great. Are they 2.5-17? You could probably export those as I don't think we can get them. Moped tires are so much cheaper than bike tires that even with the expensive shipping it might be worth it.

What countries have this tire available? Maybe it has different names??

The one im using in that picture is 2.75, but i ll make another wheel with a 2.5... the 2.75 does not fit on regular full suspension frames. Im not sure if they are available elsewhere because they are made in brazil.

If you guys dont mind the shipping price (the tires are heavy) I have no problem sending some pieces to north america.
 
gensem said:
Yes, they are 9g... and they are motorcycle spokes (UCP, not stainless steel), as far as I can tell regular bicycles use 15g-13g spokes. JRH has 12g spoke but I think you would need a washer in the cromotor flange.

8 G / 4mm
9 G / 3.5mm
10 G / 3.2mm
11 G / 2.9mm
12 G / 2.6mm
13 G / 2.3mm
14 G / 2.0mm
15 G /1.8mm

Yeah, that will be good, I think it might even withhold some slight off road fun trails or riding up/down stairs... Yet your bike would need some really good rear suspension for such rougher fun. :)
 
Andje said:
Hah! I have relied on them at 100km/h commuting for about 8000km and they have been fine; 18$ Tioga 1.95's with about 90$ worth of tube kevlar tape and rim tape inside it. I would expect them to burn on the race track with tight turns as you say.
What I meant was that there has been a trend just recently of using these moped rims and mbike tires; they look totally badass and I'm having trouble enjoying the look of kenda flames or holle rollers the same way. There is no doubt these are safer, maybe cheaper, but heavier and won't fit every frame; bike tires have been getting a bad rap as we push these things faster, but what Luke does with his 3-400 pound "bike"+rider weight on the track is not comparable to many other peoples situation. If you are running a hub motor on the street as a commuter I would be upgrading to get the stronger rim, not the stronger rubber, but that's just me; I have found the rim to be the week point in my hard tail builds, with a DS bike I wouldn't even be worried. Is there ANYONE besides Luke that can really say they raced their ebike to the point that the side walls of their tires failed? I will take my hat off to them as well, for I am in awe.

Well, I have been riding bikes for some time and motorbikes are something completely different than bicycles when it comes to handling. Even after a few weeks of riding motorbikes when you sit on a bicycle everything feels weird, too light, to clumsy in a way... I did try to lean with a bicycle quite a few times only to find that the rubber of the tires is the weakest link, it does not hold as good as the rubber of a motorbike tire in tight turns. Then there's the problem of bicycle tire sides which are not made of softer material as motorbike tires are. I'm just saying that I would always feels safer with a good (soft) motorcycle tire on my wheel than a bicycle one with the Cromotor in the rear hub. If some cyclists have different experiences I would surely like to know their technique or some tips&tricks... ;)
 
I would be interested in a box of them, but if I'm gonna get a box I want a deal :lol:


Here is a wheelset that is shipping out today to Canada. On the cromotor I used 108mm 12ga spokes with brass washers under the heads, 17" rim with erd of 420mm, and Gazelle 2.5" moped tires.


IMAG0405-1024x612.jpg
 
johnrobholmes said:
Order placed for the 11/12 butted spokes in straight pull and 90 degree heads, it will be about 6 weeks now. We also have larger 6mm body nipples coming for 12ga and 13ga spokes to adapt to anything we need.


Here is a little wheelset that we put together for a fella in Canada. Thanks for the build, it is a nice wheelset you have coming!

17" moped rims and Gazelle tires. Should be a blast!

IMAG0405-1024x612.jpg

Hey John Rob Holmes, this wheelset looks really tidy and neat.

Yet I do have a question about the lacing on the rear wheel. You laced the front wheel as it usually is laced, every second spoke is laced from the inside to the outside of the hub. But on the rear hub all of the spokes are laced from the outside to the inside, you can see all the spoke head butts are facing towards us. Now, most of the bikes have it one-in-then-the-other-out system to avoid spokes grinding onto each other, like on the front wheel. IS there a particular reason why you laced the rear wheel that way or was it a question of design..? It sure looks extraordinary. ;)

Gensem, I do have a question about the longer spokes that you used for the first setup, which ones are those, looks something like 150mm and 3mm..?

img4788q.jpg


I think that there might be some old Jawa spokes that could be angled to fit without bends. I just haven't got the motor with me to try to put it in a 17' wheel rim, but will try some more options once I get it. I was just wondering how long and thin are those spokes on this picture..? ;)
 
The rim I used is fairly narrow (for 2.25 through 3" tires). If the hub was shorter or the rim had wider hole spacing I would use regular alternating patterns more readily, and I actually did this on one of the cromotors. It was a bear getting the spokes seated and set, so I opted for all heads out (inbound spokes) on this build to keep from fighting the outer spokes so much. Another issue with lacing alternating is the inbound and outbound spoke lengths are not the same. It is possible to build either way, and either way will build a suitably strong wheel.

I would recommend an extra 2mm length on the heads in (outbound) spokes if you choose to alternate the pattern in a 17" rim.
 
I dont remember the length because it was an off the shelf spoke, but it should be something 140-150mm space and it was 3mm.
Btw that wheel no longer has a 2.15 rim and 2.75 tire. I has now a 1.4 rim and 2.5 tire.
 
gensem said:
2.75 tire vs 2.50 tire laced to cromotor.

hhqvz.jpg

Thanks for the size comparison. I think the 2.5" is definitely enough for most standard bike frames.
 
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