'lightest.bike' 1.7kg 1000w mid drive

What a wonderful day to go for a ride! Let’s just power up our completed Lightest kit and roll!



Oh… yeah… never mind…

Maybe the first or last 4 digits of the serial number?? In any case, they should be on their third cup of espresso over in Italy by now so hopefully you will receive an answer soon.

nervagon said:

What a wonderful day to go for a ride! Let’s just power up our completed Lightest kit and roll!

View attachment 349803

Oh… yeah… never mind…

Click to expand...

So I received a code that might be unique to me? Don't know, don't care at this point. So all is well now?

NO.

I have applied the superhero QR code from the app, and updated the display firmware. But I am locked to Country: others, and/or 19mph speed limit on both PAS and throttle. It cannot be set to USA 1000W in country mode, or beyond 19Mph in manual mode.

I ordered the "OFFROAD" package!

Bikee makes you pay them an additional fee to turn off the governor:

Yes, you have to pay an additional $74 to get a little button in the UI. But it looks like those that ordered the OFFROAD package shouldn't have to pay for governor-disable button. More confusion, nonsense, needless complexity, and nickle and diming.

Oh, and the motor sounds like a coffee grinder. I have a friend that used to ride a Sondors mid drive with a metal dive gear, and the Lightest motor is louder than that. It's loud enough that you probably don't need a bell/horn.

Dude, I'm pretty frustrated at this point. Will post an update when I have time for a 19mph ride.

Is it as loud as the CYC X1 Pros?

nervagon said:

So I received a code that might be unique to me? Don't know, don't care at this point. So all is well now?

NO.

I have applied the superhero QR code from the app, and updated the display firmware. But I am locked to Country: others, and/or 19mph speed limit on both PAS and throttle. It cannot be set to USA 1000W in country mode, or beyond 19Mph in manual mode.

I ordered the "OFFROAD" package!

Bikee makes you pay them an additional fee to turn off the governor:

RACE button ( or OFFROAD)

Unlock your Lightest ebike kit maximum speed with just one finger. In the realm of electric biking, speed is often the name of the game. And when it comes to turbocharging your Lightest Ebike Kit experience, the RACE Button is your ultimate secret weapon. Imagine taking your ride to a whole new...

lightest.bike

Yes, you have to pay an additional $74 to get a little button in the UI. But it looks like those that ordered the OFFROAD package shouldn't have to pay for governor-disable button. More confusion, nonsense, needless complexity, and nickle and diming.

Oh, and the motor sounds like a coffee grinder. I have a friend that used to ride a Sondors mid drive with a metal dive gear, and the Lightest motor is louder than that. It's loud enough that you probably don't need a bell/horn.

Dude, I'm pretty frustrated at this point. Will post an update when I have time for a 19mph ride.

Click to expand...

raylo32 said:

Is it as loud as the CYC X1 Pros?

Click to expand...

Yes.

Yikes dude

I bought this with the plan to circumvent the controller entirely, not because it's poorly programmed/locked down, but because i don't want this extra heat it generates inside the case.. i also bought offroad too.. and now it sounds like i have 2 reasons to rip out that controller.

Curious to hear this sound.. i wonder if it's lower when on road and the mechanical bits have a few miles on them & have 'broken in'.

For clarity, are you running a 52v battery on a unit that didn't have 'special programming' to support a 52v batt, IE a regular 48v unit? ( i am thinking about using this voltage myself )

neptronix said:

Yikes dude

I bought this with the plan to circumvent the controller entirely, not because it's poorly programmed/locked down, but because i don't want this extra heat it generates inside the case.. i also bought offroad too.. and now it sounds like i have 2 reasons to rip out that controller.

Curious to hear this sound.. i wonder if it's lower when on road and the mechanical bits have a few miles on them & have 'broken in'.

For clarity, are you running a 52v battery on a unit that didn't have 'special programming' to support a 52v batt, IE a regular 48v unit? ( i am thinking about using this voltage myself )

Click to expand...

The display/app lets you set the cell series number: 13, 14, 15 and watt hours for your pack. This might need the superhero upgrade? My settings are 14S 1100Wh, or 52V 21Ah.

Dude, this controller is like a modern EA game. Final release is beta 1.0 and chocked full of day-1 DLC and micro-transactions!

From the display itself, in the settings, you can change the max speed values for PAS and throttle, but there I am again locked to 19mph. It’s like my controller is region locked. Or there is some firmware bug.

Interesting, i was told i'd need to send it back to Italy for custom programming to run 52v. That's why i was relenting on buying a battery, wanted to know if 52v worked on your setup, but lookee there, there's settings for it already.

Too bad you can't change the wheel size to larger to bypass the speed limit, you already have 29" wheels.

I'm wondering how the motor is even detecting speed.. hopefully not via GPS!

The motor is getting speed from the magnet on the rear wheel spoke. Just like a BBSHD, etc.

I purchased the offroad option and it works without further ado. There's a big R (Race) on the home screen.

rivers said:

I purchased the offroad option and it works without further ado. There's a big R (Race) on the home screen.

Click to expand...

I don't have the race button, and I am region locked.

OK, just had a very quick lunch test ride. Now keep in mind I'm coming from a BBSHD on my other bike...

It's a good f*cking motor.

It's strong. It's fast. It's loud. On noisy city roads that won't be a problem. But on quiet side streets, and nature, it's just freaking loud. But the motor backs up that noise with real power. FYI, I am a clyde, this motor doesn't seem to mind.

Now for some stats. Maxed at almost 1000W pulled from the battery. Almost 20A pulled from the battery. Torque sensor says my legs were putting down almost 250W.

The motor makes a weird sound when it winds down to zero RPM. No other motor I've had experience with makes a sound like that.

The motor is way louder than the sounds of the chain/drive train/pulleys, the drive train itself is merely a faint hum pushed to the background and overtaken by the drive unit.

Throttle: yes! This thing throttles like crazy! I am so glad I got the harness with a throttle connector. And bafang throttles do indeed work very well. I think Bikee underplayed just how powerful this motor is on throttle only and 52V. It will impress a BBSHD rider.

But unfortunately I am region locked, and capped at 19mph, and I give up. It just can't be changed in either the app or display. There is something wrong. And Rivers said that his offroad came with the race button enabled, so there is something wrong.

And another big problem. My 36T chainring is too small. I am nearing 100rpm at 25mph, and so that is this gearing's upper practical limits. It's possible with additional motor assist, the gearing could be stretched farther/faster, bit it cuts out at 19mph and can't be changed. Unfortunately, I can't fit a bigger chainring without completely changing my configuration. Going dual chainring would require me so ship this thing back to Italy.

Wow, major turnaround in the last inning here!

Interesting that the drive train is the quiet part, that's a great sign. I wonder if it has a squarewave controller inside. The motor is probably very high RPM and that would make a square wave a real screecher...

Is the pedal cadence on this motor around 100rpm; can the motor outpedal you a lot basically? or is it reasonable @ 52v?

The 'too small a sprocket' problem is no surprise. Want that mid mount back?

I like the dual chainring configuration because i can easily get away with the higher cadence from higher voltage by gearing the mid drive down.. this way i can increase the power of the mid drive.. taking the controller out of the shell should approximately counteract the additional heat from the extra 4v.

Let me know about this cadence issue and i will immediately order an appropriate battery and start my experiments with this drive.

neptronix said:

Wow, major turnaround in the last inning here!

Interesting that the drive train is the quiet part, that's a great sign. I wonder if it has a squarewave controller inside. The motor is probably very high RPM and that would make a square wave a real screecher...

Is the pedal cadence on this motor around 100rpm; can the motor outpedal you a lot basically? or is it reasonable @ 52v?

The 'too small a sprocket' problem is no surprise. Want that mid mount back?

I like the dual chainring configuration because i can easily get away with the higher cadence from higher voltage by gearing the mid drive down.. this way i can increase the power of the mid drive.. taking the controller out of the shell should approximately counteract the additional heat from the extra 4v.

Let me know about this cadence issue and i will immediately order an appropriate battery and start my experiments with this drive.

Click to expand...

I can't report on the cadence situation when the motor cuts at 19mph. Anything above that is all meat-power right now.

All I can report on right now is the raw power (plenty), and how quick this thing is from a standstill (quick). It will also climb hills with a heavy rider, throttle only and even in a less than optimal gear.

It does get warm. But interestingly that heat does shed into all that aluminum that is mounting the front of the motor casing to my downtube.

I'm not sure how valid this test would be but try this..
Try one gear below 19mph that results in 15mph or somesuch..
See if you can actually add speed by pedaling at a mid-high cadence.

If you can't and have to pedal unsustainably fast to raise the speed, this would indicate to me that 52v probably runs at too high of cadence.

The difference in voltage between 48v and 52v is 8%.
So let's say if the cadence is at 85RPM on 48v, it's 92RPM on 52v.
So the higher cadence isn't a problem as long as the stock cadence is conservative.

How nice that you built additional thermal mass into the drive! you may be capable of a bit more power than stock thanks to that.

nervagon said:

I can't report on the cadence situation when the motor cuts at 19mph

Click to expand...

I know it would be a hack, but what about sticking a pulse divider circuit between the speedo sensor and the signal input? It would cut the reported speed in half, with all the downsides that may cause in displayed data, etc., but it would allow the system to continue responding to your input up to 38mph.

amberwolf said:

I know it would be a hack, but what about sticking a pulse divider circuit between the speedo sensor and the signal input? It would cut the reported speed in half, with all the downsides that may cause in displayed data, etc., but it would allow the system to continue responding to your input up to 38mph.

Click to expand...

Can you just enter 16" for the wheel diameter?

So when I choose KM as my unit of measurement I can finally switch to USA 750W country mode... kind of backwards. I am still locked out of USA 1000W.

But it is still limited to 32kmh or 19.8mph. It seems that for whatever reason the firmware was hard-limited to 32kmh. No getting around it.

@Pilot Engineer here is the USA ebike classes converted to metric:

Class 1: 32kmh
Class 2: 32kmh
Class 3: 45kmh

So my system is locked at class 2, with no option for class 3, and no race button to remove the governor.

Oh, wait a second.... I am locked to class 2 because I ordered the 750W motor! They have locked out class 3 for only the motor rated officially as 1000W?!?! I bet that's what they did. So silly. Why?

So if you ordered 750W or below, you are locked at class 2, and if you ordered 1000W you get class 3. That's very Bikee, I think that's what happened.

So without OFFROAD this is what you get:

Max speed 32kmh/19.8mph

And with OFFROAD:

So OFFROAD never got applied to my motor.

But those charts are clearly outdated since it lists 48V as max voltage, but I am running a 52V no problem.

Would be awesome if a Bikee rep could clear this up.

Snipped from my invoice:



Now I'm really confused!

Looking at the tables... what is the point of the "high torque" row when it is "no" for every case??

raylo32 said:

Looking at the tables... what is the point of the "high torque" row when it is "no" for every case??

Click to expand...

Because there is another spreadsheet for that!:

I could be wrong about this but the difference between the 750w and 1000w versions may be just the controller, not the motor.

750w correlates to a speed of ~28mph so it makes no sense your speed is limited that low in the USA. Might as well buy a $200 geared hub motor at that point.

bikeee boys make it clear as mud as to what speed you should get.. i hope they can fix this for you.

neptronix said:

I could be wrong about this but the difference between the 750w and 1000w versions may be just the controller, not the motor.

750w correlates to a speed of ~28mph so it makes no sense your speed is limited that low in the USA. Might as well buy a $200 geared hub motor at that point.

bikeee boys make it clear as mud as to what speed you should get.. i hope they can fix this for you.

Click to expand...

I'm actually about to hop on the Photon train, dude. I can't take this shit anymore. Spreadsheets, unlock codes, very weird business decisions, etc.