That is a typo right? You meant 30 seconds.
But I have a feeling even 30 sec at 2C will be really stressing a cheapo 10Ah pack and voltage will sag badly (so you get <10Ah).
Get a watt meter to display your actual usage, your "1000W rated motor" may peak at 1300W or more.
Nope it's my lack of knowledge. From what I understand (which isn't much lol) 1C would mean it can do it's rated 10 amp hour within an hour although if you forced any more amps than 10 amps it would damage it the battery. 2C means it can do double it's rated amp hours which also means be it would be depleted within 30 mins?
It's rated as being a 2C... do you personally believe that to be bull? So if it couldn't handle 20 amp hour I could tell because the voltage would sag? So it's ideal that I get myself a watt meter... would one of those Watt's up Meters work? And where would you plug it in... if I could mount it where I could see it while riding that would be ideal... also if it had an alarm if I go over 20 amps... that also would be good.
Sorry for my lack of knowledge in this field, if I've said anything that makes me sound like a clown that's the reason why. I though even with it being rated 1000 watts it would do under that... didn't figure it could go over.
... would one of those Watt's up Meters work? And where would you plug it in... if I could mount it where I could see it while riding that would be ideal... .....
A Watts-Up meter would work. The thing I never liked about the cheap to moderately priced meters is that the wiring is always narrower then I like. The Watts Up seems to have 14awg wire, where as I run 10awg in my wiring harness. The 14awg wire makes kind of a choking point in the harness. This is why a watt meter that uses a shunt is better. Also, if an inexpensive watt meter doesn't have a memory and left on, it will slowly drain your battery. And, when you turn it off it will clear its memory loosing data.
Although, I do believe you can wire the Watts-Up in a way to bypass the skinny positive wire and only use the ground wire for the through-put for this device...I think it would work like this. The advantage of using an auxiliary battery is that you wouldn't be using your motor battery pack to run the watt meter. So, for instance if you ride your bike somewhere and want to get a full watt usage reading from the whole trip, and the meter doesn't have a memory, so you have to leave it on the whole time to get a proper reading and you park your bike for a few hours to go and do something, the watt meter would not be costing you range with its constant power drain.
If you don't worry about the extra power usage, just hook it up to your existing battery. The positive lead from the battery to the input (source) side of the Watts-Up could be a thin gauge wire as you would only be pulling mili-amps through it if wired in this manner.
Nope it's my lack of knowledge. From what I understand (which isn't much lol) 1C would mean it can do it's rated 10 amp hour within an hour although if you forced any more amps than 10 amps it would damage it the battery. 2C means it can do double it's rated amps which also means be it would be depleted within 30 mins?
Sorry mate you are spot on (not such a clown after all) , though you won't get 10Ah at higher current draw. Due to relatively high internal resistance of the cells (imagine there's a resistor in the cells) some energy is being wasted heating up the battery from the inside, so you may only get 9Ah. This heating up contributes to ageing the cells, can cause swelling in pouches.
I read your post as 'was the battery suitable for 20A discharge for 30 minutes'', and no. They list battery as 20A MAX, so hitting that briefly would be OK, hitting it constantly would be bad. Watts do drop off as you accelerate, and it depends on your riding style, terrain, stops, weight etc
quackstar84 said:
It's rated as being a 2C... do you personally believe that to be bull? So if it couldn't handle 20 amp hour I could tell because the voltage would sag? So it's ideal that I get myself a watt meter
I't just a bit small for 1000W bike unfortunately, but use what you've got. Just don't expect it to last forever. If you're discharging it low, ensure you give it plenty of time on the charger to balance cells.
Watt meter is a very handy addition. Can get cheap ones from $15 - may not be precise but will give you an idea of whats going on. You will see the voltage sag as you take off up a hill and hit that 20 to 25 A limit of the controller.
Cheers for your feedback Gregory. I tested the bike today and found the speed at half throttle was more than enough for me... I did try full throttle and it's unnecessary in my eyes... too fast for me.
Yeah I think either a 48v 250w or 500w would have been ideal for this size battery... I have learn much for making mistakes so it's all good. I think I will order another battery and just use this one steady for the time being and then sell it on... I would like to learn how to use a multimeter to check each of the 15 wires which come from the batteries to make sure they are healthy and list their volts on ebay so they buyer knows the condition themselves.
From now on all my batteries will have a set of sense wires for a cellog and access to all to check all and balance. Plus get a good cell to start with. Put a three speed switch or. C.A. to understand and controll your controller. The motor and controller can last well over 5 plus years. So get the right battery and don't over demand of your battery. Good luck. You have been biten.
The Cycle Analyst does wonders for regulating your maximum current draw. It's expensive, but it has the most features and retains your data when switched off unlike these Turnigy watt meters.
Please see my experiences and tutorial on how to connect a Cycle Analyst to a controller that doesn't come with the plug pre-wired:
