1st build / and 1st post / Grin build

JeffnAZ said:
the caliper needs to be adjusted to the outside a couple millimeters but there's no adjustment left in that direction with the IS brake mounts. Pretty sure I'm going to take the caliper to a machine shop to have the difference shaved off. And the derailleur is really close to the hub

You may be able to just use washers. If you need the caliper to sit further from the hub, then a 2mm washer on the inside of the dropout will do that. If you need to move it toward the hub, a couple of small washer between the caliper and mount could do that. For my bike, the former worked well.
 
E-HP said:
JeffnAZ said:
the caliper needs to be adjusted to the outside a couple millimeters but there's no adjustment left in that direction with the IS brake mounts. Pretty sure I'm going to take the caliper to a machine shop to have the difference shaved off. And the derailleur is really close to the hub

You may be able to just use washers. If you need the caliper to sit further from the hub, then a 2mm washer on the inside of the dropout will do that. If you need to move it toward the hub, a couple of small washer between the caliper and mount could do that. For my bike, the former worked well.

Hmmmm... I will definitely check that out. I think getting a washer past the motor cable is going to be a problem. Perhaps a slotted washer? ...good idea to look into. I'd rather do that if it works out, thanks. I just dropped off the motor and rim to be laced up. I'll see how it measures out when I get it all back.
 
JeffnAZ said:
Hmmmm... I will definitely check that out. I think getting a washer past the motor cable is going to be a problem. Perhaps a slotted washer? ...good idea to look into. I'd rather do that if it works out, thanks. I just dropped off the motor and rim to be laced up. I'll see how it measures out when I get it all back.

I forgot it was a GMAC. You'd need a C shaped washer.
Did you remove the spacer when you installed the disc? I don't have one, but I looked at the install video.
 
E-HP said:
JeffnAZ said:
Hmmmm... I will definitely check that out. I think getting a washer past the motor cable is going to be a problem. Perhaps a slotted washer? ...good idea to look into. I'd rather do that if it works out, thanks. I just dropped off the motor and rim to be laced up. I'll see how it measures out when I get it all back.

I forgot it was a GMAC. You'd need a C shaped washer.
Did you remove the spacer when you installed the disc? I don't have one, but I looked at the install video.

I did remove the disc placeholder/spacer. I'm going to try your idea of a C shaped washer before I try anything else. I'll just have to trim the washer carefully so it doesn't gouge into the cable. It's going to be at least a week before I get the wheel/motor back. And the battery I want is STILL out of stock. So it's just a bike for awhile again.

I did put on a 24" rear wheel from another project to test it out. Never rode a mullet bike before. It's fun. It's carvy if that makes sense... it feels very different in turns. But good different. So my gamble on a 24" rear wheel appears to be a win so far. It's a fun interesting bike even without the Estuff on it. And the new rear shock feels way better than the old one. I think the damping was blown out in the old one.

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Pics…. When I finally resumed this build I skipped the photo sessions for the sake of stay on task. I likely haven’t done anything that hasn’t already been done. It works but I’m still working the setup. Not as straightforward as I assumed. I’m learning. I’m calling it a win though…. First build!
 

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Great donor bike!


Meaning what?
Yes that bike is a fun one. Bought it frame only many years ago. Econversion is about the 5th life for this bike.

meaning what? I appreciate that you’re asking. Probably to try to help. I don’t want to waste your time yet. I’m trading messages with Grin. Gonna just do what they say for now. I’m sure nothing is wrong and I just need to land on the right settings. I’m hoping to post in the next few days that all is well and I learnt where I went dum.
 
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Congrats! Looks great. What did you end up deciding on your battery pack (or did you stick with the Luna pack you mentioned in your first post)?
 
Not only does the freewheel site axle have to be thread cut and ground to fit the dropout, but the disk brake site as well. Disk brake mount on the rotor has to be shortened ca 1 cm and a new pocket for the oil-seal machined. (By shortening the brake mount original pocket for the oil-seal will be cut off).

Attached photo of shortened axle on both ends.

I don't understand --- I thought Grin made a standard 135mm dropout geared rear hub. And it still can't fit? I dunno how much you got it for but in the USA they are asking for $1000 USD for the 1000W version. And you have to keep making mods to fit it? Maybe Grin is not as great as everyone says. Fit should be a no-brainer for them to design something generic, I mean rear dropouts have been around how many decades? There are $200 rear hub kits that fit. Unacceptable for that asking price.
 
I don't understand --- I thought Grin made a standard 135mm dropout geared rear hub. And it still can't fit? I dunno how much you got it for but in the USA they are asking for $1000 USD for the 1000W version. And you have to keep making mods to fit it? Maybe Grin is not as great as everyone says. Fit should be a no-brainer for them to design something generic, I mean rear dropouts have been around how many decades? There are $200 rear hub kits that fit. Unacceptable for that asking price.
The OP's Grin motor fit; needed a washer. The fellow you quoted used a Bafang fat motor and did a bunch of work to get it to fit into 135mm.

Checked the simulator to see how that fat motor would perform with my current battery/controller/wheel size setup. Pretty impressive, if you could keep it from blowing apart. 13 minutes to meltdown, so that's plenty. Power wheelies at 30 mph with that torque. Maybe a metal gear conversion....
 
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I thought Grin made a standard 135mm dropout geared rear hub
Grin provides engineering drawings for several of their motors, for instance: https://ebikes.ca/documents/GMAC.pdf

This shows the OLD dimension.

In this case, as with several other motors, it happens to be your thought that isn't accurate. Grin is neither misleading anyone, nor failing to provide what they advertise.

The Race To The Bottom ($$!) is what led to Planned Obsolescence, plastic in the ocean, "forever chemicals" in everyone and their children, economic inequality, Climate Migration, and on and on.

I will happily pay a bit extra to keep people like Grin in business because I know it will pay off for me in the long run.
 
In this case, as with several other motors, it happens to be your thought that isn't accurate.

My thought was aren't they making 135mm dropout rear hub motors. That supposedly fit. If they fit, great. I jumped to a different poster's reply where they didn't even mention it was a Bafang rear hub that did not fit. No need to get all huffy. All you have to do is simply point out like E-HP did that the reply was about a different bike. THAT was a correct response. Yours didn't even make sense. As with several other motors? What are you even talking about.
 
Congrats! Looks great. What did you end up deciding on your battery pack (or did you stick with the Luna pack you mentioned in your first post)?
Thanks! It’s tremendous fun. I went with a rectangular amazon special. The first one was 36v 10s4p. It got me on the road but it was soon apparent that the 20amp limit on that batt was not en for hills. So now I have a 48v 5p that will allow 30amps. It’s perfect.
 
How's the quality of the erider torque sensor
It seems to be pretty good to me. Smooth power delivery. I built it as class 1 so the torque sensor is pretty critical. Mine is T9 from a couple years ago. I don’t think you can even buy one now. The T12 that’s out now, I have no clue. I’m troubleshooting a motor start problem right now with GRIN and they are focused on the torque sensor. I don’t think that’s the problem but we’ll see what they say.
 
I don't understand --- I thought Grin made a standard 135mm dropout geared rear hub. And it still can't fit? I dunno how much you got it for but in the USA they are asking for $1000 USD for the 1000W version. And you have to keep making mods to fit it? Maybe Grin is not as great as everyone says. Fit should be a no-brainer for them to design something generic, I mean rear dropouts have been around how many decades? There are $200 rear hub kits that fit. Unacceptable for that asking price.
Mine fit. I had to make one little C shaped spacer out of a stainless washer. But that was mostly to get my rear disc brake to align. And even a nice thin washer was too thick. I had to shim my disc rotor back the other direction to get it perfect. If I had rim brakes or just used regen braking, or used a frame that wasn’t a quarter century old…. I might not have had any alignment issues.
 
This bike soooo much fun. I’m able to ride it on way more trails than expected. I thought it would be a pavement cruiser but it’s a true mountain bike on all but the roughest trails. And the limit is the bike, not the electrical parts. It’s a bit small for me and it was designed for cross country, not extreme downhill. So I have to slow down for technical or rough sections. You can feel the abuse to the bike with the added weight and the hub motor in rough stuff. In all other conditions, it’s pure bliss. It’s particularly fun at night. I ride trails at night and it’s so glorious blasting through the forest at a consistent 18mph with the tunnel vision that’s created by the head light. When I get the creepy feeling that a mountain lion is chasing me, I can easily sprint up to about 25mph to get away. I see a lot of wildlife at night, elk, deer, antelope, coyotes, raccoons, cats, skunks…. no lions, but I know they’re there…. You get a lot closer to them than you would on any other vehicle. It’s actually kinda scary. I had a big bull elk cross my path in the head light within 20 yards and I could hear other elk crossing behind me in the dark… they sounded very close. Scared the crap out of me and all I could think to do is pedal faster. The coyotes don’t even run away, they just watch you go by. I usually finish my night rides with a cruise home on the pavement. With the seat slammed in cruising position I’m able to maintain 20mph with minimal effort to get home and I can sprint up very steep and long hills while barely losing any speed. This GMAC motor is very torquey and pretty quiet. It does have a slight geared noise but it’s a pleasant sound. My tires are louder than the motor. The longest ride I’ve done on a single charge is 14 miles and it seemed to be losing power right at the last few hundred yards. Average ride is about 10-12 miles. But that includes running with a lot of assist, 5xhuman watts, and challenging terrain at an aggressive pace. That essentially adds up to about an hour of pure bicycle excitement, a respectable workout, and knowing that I just had a ton of fun. I keep trying to do a reasonable range test but I can’t help but to push the bike and climb hills, climbing hills at 20mph is very addictive. sometimes I just blast all the hills I can find…. so the range testing is always aborted in favor of fun. This bike isn’t very comfortable after about an hour anyway. It’s super fun to hot rod around and carve turns but it’s not too comfortable for a long long ride.

Things I did right…
GMAC! Maybe it doesn’t do higher speed like a direct drive, but the torque is perfect for what I’m doing and you can push it past 20mph if you want to pedal real fast, but it essentially has a 20mph speed limit because of the gearing, 38t front, 11-34 9 speed in back, so it basically supports my legal class 1 theme by default because most of the time you simply don’t want to pedal at the cadence required to exceed ~20mph
Keeping the gears. It’s a 1 by 9 speed bike. I was gonna make it a single speed. But having those gears to maintain a consistent cadence is where it’s at with this GMAC. It responds very well to a consistent cadence. The gears make that possible.
Dropper post…. I use it a lot. Seat up when climbing and accelerating. Seat down to cruise... and there’s a lot of cruising. I built it as class 1. So it’s nice to change seat height to change muscle groups as well.
Finding a stem and handlebar that allows me to flip the bike over without the display or controls hitting the ground. This a priceless convenience when you have to work on the bike.

What I did wrong…. If I’d have planned this out better and done more homework, I could have bought it as a kit from GRIN. If I’d have bought my parts as a kit, it would have come with the correct setup. As such, I’ve had to fumble my way through setting up the phaserunner and CA. I didn’t enjoy that and I still have a couple issues that I haven’t figured out. I’m sick of messing with the setup. People have tried to help me but even with help I just simply don’t understand most of the time. And I’m starting to suspect that every build is so different at a setup that works for some might not work for all.
I also started with a battery that was too small. It got me going but I only did about 5 rides before it was clear that I needed to spend more money on a bigger battery.

So so much fun! One of the coolest toys I’ve ever had. Thanks GRIN and thanks to you folks for helping me build this thing. And I gotta go thank the guy that laced the motor into a 24” wheel. He struggled with it and didn’t seem too happy with the result, but it’s holding up to some pretty good abuse.

My battery just finished charging…. I’m going for a ride bitches.
 
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