So:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&start=1000#p1595873
I'm out of rims for the rear wheels of SB Cruiser, and need to buy at least one new one (might as well buy at least a pair while I'm at it).
So I'm up for new rims, as affordable as possible, but also strong. I'd be ok with steel ones, too, since I could bend steel ones back when the edge gets dented or crushed when I hit unavoidable sharp-edged potholes (infrequent, but it destroys the aluminum rims when that happens--they cannot be bent back, or they will fracture and fail dangerously--I have to leave the dents in, which means the tire doesnt' seat properly in those areas).
Presently I'm using Shinko SR-714 x 2.25" moped tires. I'd use the 3" version (80/90 or 90/90, IIRC) if I could; would require rebuilding some of the trike rearend / fender frames to accomodate the width, but I'd do it if it improved the ride quality some (larger air volume). Would probably work better with a wider rim than I presently use (50mm).
I'm using moped tubes, with all-metal valve stems that are secured to the rim by nuts--so a rim that has an inset for this on the inside surface (where the tube sits) would be nice; the ones I use now are typical double-walls that dont'.
I'd prefer something built for smaller spokes / nipples, as I use the Grin Tech Sapim 13/14g butted spokes, which have 15g-wrench flats and 14g threads. I expect I'd need to use washers if I use a moped rim, as they'll likely use larger spokes normally. A bicycle rim would work if it's nice and strong.
I'd prefer eyeletted nipple holes if it's aluminum, to minimize stress cracking and pull-thru. Guess those aren't needed on steel rims.
Separately, I am also looking to build a completely new trike, which would use much larger diameter rear wheels, probably something like pedicab wheels, dont' know the diameter but the larger the better to roll over road problems without suspension. Suggestions on those would be useful as well. (I need to look up Chalo's posts for the ones where he mentions where he works and builds those kinds of wheels, and maybe just buy some from there complete). These wheels would not have hubmotors in them; the motor(s) would chain drive them.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&start=1000#p1595873
I'm out of rims for the rear wheels of SB Cruiser, and need to buy at least one new one (might as well buy at least a pair while I'm at it).
So I'm up for new rims, as affordable as possible, but also strong. I'd be ok with steel ones, too, since I could bend steel ones back when the edge gets dented or crushed when I hit unavoidable sharp-edged potholes (infrequent, but it destroys the aluminum rims when that happens--they cannot be bent back, or they will fracture and fail dangerously--I have to leave the dents in, which means the tire doesnt' seat properly in those areas).
Presently I'm using Shinko SR-714 x 2.25" moped tires. I'd use the 3" version (80/90 or 90/90, IIRC) if I could; would require rebuilding some of the trike rearend / fender frames to accomodate the width, but I'd do it if it improved the ride quality some (larger air volume). Would probably work better with a wider rim than I presently use (50mm).
I'm using moped tubes, with all-metal valve stems that are secured to the rim by nuts--so a rim that has an inset for this on the inside surface (where the tube sits) would be nice; the ones I use now are typical double-walls that dont'.
I'd prefer something built for smaller spokes / nipples, as I use the Grin Tech Sapim 13/14g butted spokes, which have 15g-wrench flats and 14g threads. I expect I'd need to use washers if I use a moped rim, as they'll likely use larger spokes normally. A bicycle rim would work if it's nice and strong.
I'd prefer eyeletted nipple holes if it's aluminum, to minimize stress cracking and pull-thru. Guess those aren't needed on steel rims.
Separately, I am also looking to build a completely new trike, which would use much larger diameter rear wheels, probably something like pedicab wheels, dont' know the diameter but the larger the better to roll over road problems without suspension. Suggestions on those would be useful as well. (I need to look up Chalo's posts for the ones where he mentions where he works and builds those kinds of wheels, and maybe just buy some from there complete). These wheels would not have hubmotors in them; the motor(s) would chain drive them.