.

[D-Man]

Now to sand and roughen the dropouts:

 

[D-Man]

Now at first I didn't want to use JB stick weld because its not designed for structural applications. I tested it and sure enough it does bend when loaded. But I found that it works great in compression situations. I made a couple small test pieces and sure enough, when you make a square chunk of it and put it into vice, it holds and doesn't compress. So, I decided to use it. The only issue would be how long it will stick. It shouldn't matter. I'll have set screws up against it and should be ok.

Check out these beefy dropouts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[D-Man]

Disk brake side.

 

[D-Man]

Other side.

 

[D-Man]

Disk brake side again.

 

[D-Man]

Front view.

 

[Mark_A_W]

Dman, you are da man 8)

Completely different approach to the way I did it.


I don't quite understand how you stuck the blocks to the forks? Did you shape aluminium blocks and weld them on? "JB Stick Weld" doesn't mean anything to me...

 

[D-Man]

Dman, you are da man 8)

Completely different approach to the way I did it.


I don't quite understand how you stuck the blocks to the forks? Did you shape aluminium blocks and weld them on? "JB Stick Weld" doesn't mean anything to me...

Thanks. I hope this thing works so I'm still da man. :lol: Jb stick weld is a type of 2 part compound like clay. You kneed it up and it gets hot and then you form it into what you want. It cures very rapidly then turns into a rock. Like I said before, I wouldn't trust it to fix broken metal parts under load, but as a laminate and in compression situations like this, I'd say it will work if it stays stuck. The aluminiun blocks bars are what you would find in a "home circuit breaker electrical box." I did have to drill through in one spot for the set screw to go all the way through. Those are bolted to the torque arms and the adjustable set screws in the middle are what clamp down on the metal inserts that were pushed into the JB stick weld. (To create a mini-vice on each dropout) Still have to paint everything and put the fork on the bike yet.

 

[Mark_A_W]

Ahh...we call that stuff "Knead it".

 

[D-Man]

Made some tools. On the left we have a star nut installer and on the right, a crown race installer. The wooden star nut installer has a hole drilled the same size as the round bolt head; then at the front is where a nut was pressed into the wood for frontal stablization. Then wrap the front end with fishing line so the wood doesn't break. The crown race installer is just plain pvc 2 1/4 with an adapter that was hacked in half; then ground down to an inside lip that was inside, then shaved with a dremel to get the right diameter which was 1 17/32".

 

[D-Man]

The headset I used was a cane creek Tank 2. Beefy compared to the old stock one. Made more tools again. I used a 1 inch copper pipe hack sawed to remove old bearings and then a 1/2" bolt, washers, and cardboard to install the new ones.

 

[D-Man]

Fork is installed. Torque arms painted, lightened, and installed. Correct set screws installed into adjustment blocks. Go-hub motor harness lengthened. Used a little larger gauge wire . :x What a pain that was!!! Made hole in plastic controller cover for wires to exit. Need to seal it up yet and install v-brakes,speedometer yet. Still no lockwashers on axel. There's not enough room. No one seems to have nylon lock nut for that size or any nut in that size. I think its a 12mm 1.50 pitch. All they have is 1.75 pitch lock nuts. :x Not sure what I'll do. But, I will say that the posture on this bike is awesome now compared to the old. I did not cut the steer tube and it was still 1/2" shorter then old neck/stem setup. But this longer travel fork raised the bike another 2 3/4 inches. So around 2 inch raise total in the front end while riding. Top tube went to around 30 inches. Plenty of clearance still.

 

[Beagle123]

As an alternative approach, perhaps you could drill a hole through the flat sides of the axle that's about the size of a framing nail. Then you could inset a framing nail through the axle and anchor each side.

 

[fechter]

Loctite works. If there are a few threads sticking out, you could also double nut it.

 

[D-Man]

Ok, loctite it is. No room left to drill Beagle. Thanks. Bikes pretty much done. Had to lengthen the front brake cable. Already new that was coming. Was this whole thing worth it ??? I don't know..... :?
It rides better. Don't have to worry about unexpected big hits going straight to my back. Here's a few pictures:

 

[D-Man]

Custom kickstand extention.

 

[D-Man]

My new and improved E-bike conversion

 

[Beagle123]

Wow. Your bike looks really pro. Great work. The only improvement I could suggest is putting the batteries into saddlebags so the wieht is lower.

Thanks for the pics. Keep up the great work.

 

[kyakdiver]

It's a hydrogen bike? Why are you filling it with water?

 

[D-Man]

Wow. Your bike looks really pro. Great work. The only improvement I could suggest is putting the batteries into saddlebags so the wieht is lower.

Thanks for the pics. Keep up the great work.

Glad you like it Beagle. I've pondered the idea of moving the batteries and at one time built part of a steel battery box to bolt on to the water bottle mounts. I decided to quit on that idea after a measurement error. :x Actually, I can still do it but don't really want to lose the water bottle holder. Plus I like the stealth look of the bags and pump. Once you mount any box inside the frame; people take notice.

It's a hydrogen bike? Why are you filling it with water?

Actually, I drank all the water.

 

[D-Man]

Wow, what a nice cheap bag from china I just picked up.

 

[D-Man]

Mmmmmm. The bag got smaller and there's 2 sla's inside!

 

[D-Man]

I know it looks crappy but wait till the end result. All the hardware will be hidden in the bag as this will be all stealth. 8)

 

[D-Man]

The reason for moving 2 sla's to the front was to get the front shock to work better. It hardly moved at all as all the weight was all on the back. Just because you have a front hub motor doesn't mean anything as the fork sits on top of the motor; with no weight on it. I contacted the manufacture and they don't make springs for this shock as its an "entry level" shock and all that is available is a seal kit; so the guy says. Anyway, all it has is a medium spring. I'm a little lighter then medium. I read a review on this shock and a guy said that if your over 200 lbs to not use it as its not stiff enough. Well, I can say that it works great for someone at about 175 lbs (sla's included). Now that I moved 20 lbs of sla's to the front, it does work like its suppose to. Anyway it came out pretty good. Here's a few pictures:

 

[RLT]

Thanks for the ideas and the good documentation; I'm probably going to have to do something like that for the forks on my 2WD project, whether I use the motorcycle forks or not.