2022 Kona Tanuki

calab

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Dec 10, 2013
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Is this the proper start on an elbows-in build. I can get the pattern but I never know if I start it off properly.
I made sure that the spoke started off next to the valve.
I made sure the spoke angled away from the valve hole so you can air it up easily without having to fight for the pump valve to be put on the tube valve.
One mistake I made, is I did not use the Boiled Linseed Oil I have for spoke prep.

The hub is a Leaf 1500w 35h, in a brand new DM24 rim 26", has new spokes from local bike store.

You can see its the gear side is facing up and I think I have the spokes in their proper rim holes. Grintech spoke calc says they are off 0.5mm offset. To my eyes its barely noticeable.

The bike I bought on sale for 360us from l.b.s. its an entry level bike with Tourney components but has 29x2.25 with lots of room for a wider tire. I can fit a good fat index finger all around the tread. My guess is I can fit a 29 x 2.40 or 2.50 tire.

The picture shows the top of the hub being the drive side (ds) , with the spokes on the ds flange going to what I think is the proper side for the spoke hole on the rim.

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I can't answer that question at the moment when I get home I'll look at my rim.
First get your offset then make sure you have no side to side and then make sure they're all the same tension.
Good luck. I just made a truing stand out of a bed frame it was pretty easy if you get the right bed frame both angler iron will meet in the center and you only have one cut one weld x2. That way you don't have to have the v top like a Parks tool truing stand. It's easier if you have a motor in a 10 mm slot with the u on the bottom. This is the gear side.
 

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The bicycle was amazing on the easy horse trails, the 29x2.25 tires were excellent.
The fork squish needs to be stiffened up a bit, the next step up for a quality fork on a bicycle was double the price I paid for this Kona.

I realize now that I would not have made the trip way out to the country and rode the bicycle if I did not purchase it. The reason for that is I would not have ridden many miles on leg muscles alone. Its not that hard to just pedal, muscles grow, riding become easier. I want to see what I do with my little 750w geared, the terrain I ride with 750w will be different with more road riding and very little trail riding, if there is trail riding I do, the trails will be easy.

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I installed my dusty e-components and the last couple days riding have been really epic.

I am currently looking for a used full suspension bicycle, xl frame, with room for a battery of within the triangle. Lots fit theirs around the rear suspension pivots and springs. Perhaps there may be enough room for a second battery on top of the top tube, like there is room on this Kona Tanuki. Basically thats what I am working on now. Slimmer case style on top of the top tube, square box battery stuffed into the square corner, hopefully. That'll be my long range setup.

Let the hunt begin for a fs bicycle, looking forward to it. That one will end up being a mac with a phaserunner, and a new battery.
I want an upgraded front suspension fork from what this Kona Tanuki has. XCE 28 and I realized I got 27.5" wheels not 29", going from 26 to 27.5 they felt huge, going to 29" would be even huge'r, trying to swing the front of the tire around in wild bushland or grasslands.
Yeah baby!
 
For maximum battery space, earlier model Trek Fuel, Giant Anthem, Trance, or NRS. After they cutover to disc brakes, but while they still had straight tubes.
Something like this: Trek Fuel 70 Full Suspension Mountain Bike w/ Disc Brakes - XL -...

Those are more common, but you see a Kona Kahuna or Kikapu once in a while. The older Ellsworth Truth had a roomy triangle. I almost bought an NRS last year, but the battery in my truck died since I hadn't driven it in a while.
 
I have a Kona Kikapu that I tried to put a cyc pro gen 2 but the ASI BAC 855 bty controller never worked. I might change to a rear hub if the 2y old project.
It has a large open triangle with an asymmetric rear pivot for some reason . Probably see you get more pedal torque on the rear wheel in theory. Its XL and I still envision getting it on the road. I even bought a $1,200 custom-made battery 72v that I put into an old giant upland instead. I threw a lot of money at that project I can resurrect it with a different controller I hope.
Yes E-HP is right on the bikes he talked about and I looked on Craigslist to find mine I think 350 USD .
Good luck. Remember looking at the rear derailleur usually tells you the quality of the other components XT XTR ect.
 
Thudbuster LT from Cane Creek are on sale from $199 to $119, would work on the stock seat but the Townie is a taller seat.
The Townie seat is elastromer and low profile (I like it a lot) the other suspension seats are much taller then the Townie, the older style springy suspension seats are skyscrapers. Going from 27.5 stock rear to 26 hub rear, keeping 27.5 front, I gained a bit for bum cushioning. Fatter tires for cushioning arent for me, I believe the Tanuki could possibly fit 27.5 x 2.40, from the stock 2.25. The 26 might fit 2.50, I dont like much past 2.25" for tire fatness.
 
What I have a thudbuster LT on my giant but because it's so high I took out one elasticism and now the seat isn't as high and it is also further back so as to be longer. Custom and it puts the seat back. It's a 21.5 frame. As I'm 6,3 and 245lbs.
 
Rode 46 miles today on one charge with an easy pedal assist.

Adio's

Deer was yesterday, other pics are today. No those are not my tire track marks coming down that rutted, beast of a hill.
 

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Okay here's a picture of the giant upland with a third buster. You can see how it laid back towards the rear bike rack I'm going to replace that rubber I have a couple more of those elasticismers.
 

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