<24hrs/miles and brokedown again

john7700

100 W
Joined
Apr 24, 2011
Messages
264
Location
The Happy Valley ................Western Mass. USA
I realized that it would be better to post my motor woes here in technical instead of general.

Repaired my damaged phase and hall wires and got my bike up and running well and it
stayed that way for less than one whole day. I went for a long ride and she was running
great. I stopped after about ten minutes of WOT and when I went to ride off the motor
sounded like it had a mouth full of marbles and would only run for three or four seconds
before cutting out. I did hit a few pot holes and was on a dirt road with a little washboard.
I managed to limp the bike home with peddle assist and repeatedly feathering the throttle.

I'm guessing that it is probably one of the hall wires that we soldered (sound right?). The
speedometer on my CA isn't working. Does that give me a hint on what wire it might be or
will the spedo go out if any wires are broken (9C) ?

I'll be pulling the cover again in the next day or two :evil: . Some day I hope to ride this bike.
 
It seems like you're a spirited type of rider. I would recommend drilling a bunch of big holes in the side plates of the motor. Try to encourage as much airflow as possible through the motor for cooling.
 
Yes; cooling the motor in some way would be a good idea, if you're putting a lot of power thru it. What's your typical peak wattage? (calculate from Amax and Vmin) and do you run it hard enough to get that peak a lot? (you can see this by keeping the Watts displayed on the screen while riding, unfortunately this is exclusive of the speedomter, which sucks for trying to figure out your watts-at-speed).

And if the CA is a DP type, using one of the halls in the motor as the speed sensor, then whichever hall it is hooked up to is probably not responding. If the CA is the SA type, and has it's own sensor and magnet external to the wheel, then the speedo issue has nothing to do with the motor problem.
 
Found it !

The blue wire was throwing a steady ~5V and I chased it all the way back to
the crimp at the post on the sensor. Up and running again...for now :twisted:


P1000378.jpg


Using info from recent post and a search I was able to trouble shoot, diagnose
and repair the problem. Thanks folks !

John
 
Yay! Great the sphere helped, but really you did it yourself. Lot's of people couldn't no matter what help they had. So give yourself a pat on the back too.

No way that motor got hot yet. Look how yellow it still is.
 
your hall sensor wire was just crimped to the leg of the hall sensor? those connections should all be soldered, not loose. do that before closing it up again.

also i just noticed the outer lamination on your stator looks like it has separated from the others. did it come like that from the factory?
 
dnmun said:
your hall sensor wire was just crimped to the leg of the hall sensor? those connections should all be soldered, not loose. do that before closing it up again.

They were crimped with a small band and soldered. I definitely re-soldered the connections. But thanks, I am real new to this and have been known to do an "uniformed" thing or two.



dnmun said:
also i just noticed the outer lamination on your stator looks like it has separated from the others. did it come like that from the factory?

This motor has less than a hundred miles on it. I think what you are seeing as de-lamination are just smudges or shadows picked up by the camera.

John
 
Ok, I see what you are saying ( can read pictures better :) ) Yest this is the way the
motor came from Ebike-Ca. Not knowing any better, I assumed it was normal. Should
I be concerned about this and contact the company?
 
Ya' had me going there Dnmum. With the problems I've been having on this
build, I figure any thing is possible.

And thanks for the good words Dogman. The most rewarding part for me was
the fact that it was a new problem not something in the section we had already
worked on as we were expecting.

I know every one seems to like 9C's quality but I have less than 100 miles on this thing and
I have already had a break on the five pin connector and a break on the hall receptor and the
crushed wires at the axle exit, although my fault, could have been avoided if they didn't come
with that spring that doesn't allow you to tie them down to the axle. If this is what the "good"
ones are like I'd hate to deal with one of the others.

TTFN
 
Back
Top