36v 500 watt controller for 48v 350 watt hub motor?

[EndGame00]

Hi. New poster here. I also have a question about controller replacement/upgrade. I have a Stigo B1 (non-pedal/throttle only) and Ive been looking to replace the stock controller that comes with it. The stock controller is 36/48v 350 watt, 16amps. However, the controller has this type of wiring/connection set up: 9-pin for the motor; 1T4 for the throttle, lcd, two brakes; one 2-wire connector for headlight; one 2-wire connector for the tail light; one 2-wire connector for the horn. I could not find anything similar on Aliexpress or anywhere. The online seller themselves are having a hard time reaching out to the manufacturer, as they have been told it is a “calibrated controller”.
Thanks

 

[AHicks]

Second piece is that light. Not all controllers have that separate light circuit, but of those that do, nearly all are very sensitive to any overload - like someone installing a more powerful headlight without considering the increased amperage required to run it.

The front light has been working perfectly fine for more than 2 years.
It is a motorcycle (LED) H4 bulb, voltage: AC/DC 8-85V (https://bit.ly/3A6nI3z).

If it were my bike, rather than replacing the controller for the inop light circuit, I would look into running the light from a different circuit, or the battery itself.

Running the light from a different circuit, I presume I loose the turn ON/OFF option from my handlebar buttons, don’t I?

Are you sure this isn't related to something like a bad connection or a switch that's not working?

 

[AHicks]

Hi. New poster here. I also have a question about controller replacement/upgrade. I have a Stigo B1 (non-pedal/throttle only) and Ive been looking to replace the stock controller that comes with it. The stock controller is 36/48v 350 watt, 16amps. However, the controller has this type of wiring/connection set up: 9-pin for the motor; 1T4 for the throttle, lcd, two brakes; one 2-wire connector for headlight; one 2-wire connector for the tail light; one 2-wire connector for the horn. I could not find anything similar on Aliexpress or anywhere. The online seller themselves are having a hard time reaching out to the manufacturer, as they have been told it is a “calibrated controller”.
Thanks

I think they meant "custom" controller rather than "calibrated" controller. If you order enough of them, they'll build you a controller any way you order it. I haven't seen one like like what you need with the horn and 2 light leads. With a little "creativity" it shouldn't be too hard to adapt something close though.

 

[EndGame00]

Hi. New poster here. I also have a question about controller replacement/upgrade. I have a Stigo B1 (non-pedal/throttle only) and Ive been looking to replace the stock controller that comes with it. The stock controller is 36/48v 350 watt, 16amps. However, the controller has this type of wiring/connection set up: 9-pin for the motor; 1T4 for the throttle, lcd, two brakes; one 2-wire connector for headlight; one 2-wire connector for the tail light; one 2-wire connector for the horn. I could not find anything similar on Aliexpress or anywhere. The online seller themselves are having a hard time reaching out to the manufacturer, as they have been told it is a “calibrated controller”.
Thanks

I think they meant "custom" controller rather than "calibrated" controller. If you order enough of them, they'll build you a controller any way you order it. I haven't seen one like like what you need with the horn and 2 light leads. With a little "creativity" it shouldn't be too hard to adapt something close though.

Yes. It has a simple but weird wiring configuration that the manufacturer may have customized for their ebikes... I was thinking of hacking a 500-watt controller to work on a layout.

 

[EndGame00]

I've reached out the seller if it was possible for the manufacturer supply upgraded controller. They said they've made some attempts in the past regarding parts, but they (manufacturer) were reluctant...

 

[EndGame00]

Hello:

I was looking for a controller which is the closest thing to the stock 36/48v 350 watt controller on the Stigo… Stigo has this wierd wiring layout which has a one 9-pin for the hub motor, 1T4 connector, two-wire connector for the headlight, two-wire connector for the horn, three-wire connector for the brake light, and xt60 for the battery power…. The closest one I found was a 36 volt, 500 watt controller made by Eunorau (which it also has a PAS connector)… would it be safe to run a 36v 500 watt controller to a 48v 350 watt hub motor?

Note the compartment for the controller is a tight squeeze, so the 48-watt version would be out of the question.

 

[docw009]

If you change the controller, your display probably won't work, No speed info, etc. The lights may still work,

The motor isn't the problem when changing the voltage of the controller. Some 36V controllers will fail when fed 48 volts. It depends on whether their internal components cam handle the higher voltage. There's really no reason in my opinion to do so, but some 36V controllers only use 50V components to save a few pennies per unit. A 48V battery is close to 55V at full charge, Finally, your top speed will drop 20% om 36V,

 

[E-HP]

The closest one I found was a 36 volt, 500 watt controller made by Eunorau (which it also has a PAS connector)… would it be safe to run a 36v 500 watt controller to a 48v 350 watt hub motor?

Note the compartment for the controller is a tight squeeze, so the 48-watt version would be out of the question.

There's no such thing as a 48v 350 watt hub motor; although the manufacturer may state that. It matters more what your battery voltage is and its capabilities, and if it's a 48V battery, whether the 36V controller can handle 48V. Most can, but wouldn't be able to tell unless the specs says so, or if you look inside and see that the caps and fets can handle that voltage.

If the original controller is rated at 350W @48V, that would be 7.3A continuous, and the battery should be sized in order to provide that. The 500W controller @36V should be able to provide 13.9A continuous, or 10.4A @ 48V. If your battery is capable of providing 10.4A continuous, then it should be fine, but if it can only provide 7.3A, then you would want to limit the current of the new controller to whatever your battery is capable of providing.

In a nutshell, don't worry about the motor, be concerned about the battery.