A2B Octive/Metro purchase?
- Thread starter robbiesd
- Start date
Not so on batteries, I've been in touch with https://ebikemarketplace.com/products/a2b-li-ion-electric-bike-batteries, they offer 3 amp capacity choices in their rebuilds and they have a BMS they can install which will work if the seller destroyed the original taking the cells out of these packs. $530-$630 plus frt. and maybe a BMS. Good to know on the tire profile and fork mod.
@ 'robbiesd':
Obviously, everyone has their own view & price limit etc, but did you check out that TX ad at all first?
A wealthy guy clearly bought x2 @ $3,200ea new - and they have been sitting in dry storage in his garage & essentially unused ever since!
To the right person, $1600 (+ rear battery pack if desired) seemed like a rare opportunity.
- My own tyres are original, 10 years old and still doing well.. his are clearly 'mint', like the rest of the bike!
Battery shelf life alone is a good 10 years.
I've seen a lot of A2B ads.. and this is one of the 'best' I've ever seen anyway!
Just trying to help!
Obviously, everyone has their own view & price limit etc, but did you check out that TX ad at all first?
A wealthy guy clearly bought x2 @ $3,200ea new - and they have been sitting in dry storage in his garage & essentially unused ever since!
To the right person, $1600 (+ rear battery pack if desired) seemed like a rare opportunity.
- My own tyres are original, 10 years old and still doing well.. his are clearly 'mint', like the rest of the bike!
Battery shelf life alone is a good 10 years.
I've seen a lot of A2B ads.. and this is one of the 'best' I've ever seen anyway!
Just trying to help!
E-Glider I did look at the ad, saw it on eBay in my research and I agree w/your synopsis , much like the local owner I found here. I think to a person seeking out an A2B yea, $1500 might not be un-reasonable for a nice one-he should include the 2nd batt IMO. But to a shopper open to all possibilities, I see the value as less based on the used market of older ebikes.
Sure, most of them won't have rotting tires per say but something. I do appreciate your experienced comment on the TX one's though and the ads you've seen. I think batteries lives at this age point have become "user" defined and are an iffy component unless you can cycle them b-4 buying.
Sure, most of them won't have rotting tires per say but something. I do appreciate your experienced comment on the TX one's though and the ads you've seen. I think batteries lives at this age point have become "user" defined and are an iffy component unless you can cycle them b-4 buying.
@ 'robbiesd':
So glad you had at least already seen that Ad.
His bikes clearly are in exceptionally good all-round condition.
~ I can't help wondering how long it will be, before machines such as his actually start going back UP in value again? 20 years?
Reckon, as it's 'buyer collects', actually driving down there would be the only way to check batts, hang out and likely come away with a good, rear-pack-inclusive deal as a result anyway?
But, as a 'hobbyist' myself, I can also relate only too well to the $ensibilities of picking up a good cheap frame and enjoying the process of 'restoring' it to one's personal satisfaction.. even if they end up costing about the same in the end!
So glad you had at least already seen that Ad.
His bikes clearly are in exceptionally good all-round condition.
~ I can't help wondering how long it will be, before machines such as his actually start going back UP in value again? 20 years?
Reckon, as it's 'buyer collects', actually driving down there would be the only way to check batts, hang out and likely come away with a good, rear-pack-inclusive deal as a result anyway?
But, as a 'hobbyist' myself, I can also relate only too well to the $ensibilities of picking up a good cheap frame and enjoying the process of 'restoring' it to one's personal satisfaction.. even if they end up costing about the same in the end!
markz
100 TW
The A2B tires look like they got lots of beef to the tread.
Hillhater
100 TW
Those A2B 20” tires have a “flat” profile which together with a heavy bike ( especially with the rear battery on), makes for a very odd handling ride. Nothing like a conventional 26/27” wheel bike.
Change out those tyres for something with a rounder profile , at least.
And beware the shortage of A2B support and spares, there are so many custom parts on those Metros that you are going to be looking long and hard for spares...custom battery packs are only the start.!
Obviously they do not make the Metro anymore, and most of the A2B subsequent models had frequent changes and revisions, such that parts interchangeability was next to non existent.
If you must have an A2B, its Best to buy a pair of identical bikes,..one for spares.
Just say’in :wink:
PS.. at one time (maybe still ?). There were chinese replicas of the Metro available via Ebay and Alibaba etc.
Change out those tyres for something with a rounder profile , at least.
And beware the shortage of A2B support and spares, there are so many custom parts on those Metros that you are going to be looking long and hard for spares...custom battery packs are only the start.!
Obviously they do not make the Metro anymore, and most of the A2B subsequent models had frequent changes and revisions, such that parts interchangeability was next to non existent.
If you must have an A2B, its Best to buy a pair of identical bikes,..one for spares.
Just say’in :wink:
And,..NO,..they were far from the first purpose designed Ebikes..Aprilia, Stealth , Optibike , several others and a few million Chinese beat them on that front.E-Glider said:As one of, if not THE first fully 'bottom-up' designed electric bikes, they are already 'Classics' in their own right.. and deserve to be.
PS.. at one time (maybe still ?). There were chinese replicas of the Metro available via Ebay and Alibaba etc.
markz
100 TW
^ Best not to buy any A2B at all IMHO
Not worth the hassle.
Not worth the potential down time in trying to find a part, and get it shipped. Especially if you ride frequently, or commute.
Not worth the hassle.
Not worth the potential down time in trying to find a part, and get it shipped. Especially if you ride frequently, or commute.
Hillhater said:
OK! Sorry to 'misinform'!
Maybe you'd like to correct the A2B Wiki on this?:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A2B_(brand)
- which states:
"The A2B company launched the metro in 2009, the first specially designed bike frame for electric motors."
As far as I am aware, the Metro line was built first in Germany.. then China.. and then finally in India?
Hillhater
100 TW
It would be a full time job correcting Wiki.....
And yes, it was a mid drive, with a removeable , in frame battery.
MikeSSS
1 kW
This is a really interesting thread!
eglider: First Impression: I just finished about 15 minutes of riding and I'm not very impressed. I bought a rear battery from the seller on eBay in TX w/two for sale. He said one had a fresh rebuild by Ebikemarketplace last year the other was original. He wanted $600 for the one with the fresh rebuild, which is 13ah. I bought the original one from him for $320 delivered. I bought one of the local bikes for $250. The seller said one had had it's hub motor replaced so that's the one I chose, a black one. The empty banana battery pack looks to be complete and in good shape so I suspect it will be fine with new cells installed but I don't know if I'll do that. I experienced the handling issue from the tires hard edge right away as well as the rear wheel hop.
Any tips on reducing/controlling the rear wheel hop?
Any tips on reducing/controlling the rear wheel hop?
markz
100 TW
Of note:
Calgary, AB, Canada
Kijiji ad a2b $650cdn
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-ebike/calgary/a2b-electric-bike-for-parts-or-rebuild/1492054727
Its not mine, nor do I really want to advertise it cuz you already know my feelings on buying a2b, but I posted this anyways.
Calgary, AB, Canada
Kijiji ad a2b $650cdn
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-ebike/calgary/a2b-electric-bike-for-parts-or-rebuild/1492054727
Its not mine, nor do I really want to advertise it cuz you already know my feelings on buying a2b, but I posted this anyways.
robbiesd said:
Congratulations first of all!
Sounds as if you now have yourself an excellent basis for some suitable tweaking & 'personalisation' to your own setup preferences anyway!
Presumably you still have the standard rear 'shock absorber' fitted?
Though in fact, in my opinion, it is more of a (too hard) spring than an effective shocker - and therefore likely remains one of the main reasons for your wheel hop too.
As mentioned previously, a great way to improve handling is to first replace that unit with a double acting AIR spring unit, which is both 'softer' and can be adjustable in both comression & rebound modes. So depending upon your own body-weight etc, you can then 'tune' that to give the best overall ride/handling characteristics for you + the bike etc.
Bear in mind too, that with only the rear - and no front/frame pack fitted, the bike will be comparitively (and overly) 'arse-heavy' from it's original design-balance as well.. the motor itself is not 'light' and is also adding to the unsprung weight - so for now, you could just try tweaking the air pressures in both tyres (ie. comparatively higher pressure in the rear etc) and adjusting the rear spring tension to help improve/suit?
As 'fetcher' also points out, eventually fitting suitable rounded edge 'moped' tyres should also help improve handling greatly.
Maybe I am 'spoiled' by my own bike, which I only rode for the first time after having upgraded both sets of batteries and altering the front/rear suspension etc?
But I can assure you that it is not 'unimpressive' to ride now!
Probably NO bike is 'perfect' and all retain some individual 'idiosyncrasies'..
But do persevere, try to hold no 'buyers-remorse' - adapt and look forward to enjoying the efforts of your own upgrades over time now, is my advice.
Hope this helps a bit anyway!
robbiesd said:
No worries 'robbiesd'.
Jump on eBay.. or even visit your local bike shop?
Personally, I am still using one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kind-Shock-Kindshock-KS-A5-RR1-Dual-Air-Rear-Shock-150x30mm/263401048971?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
But have found that travel on the 150mm (length) models *may then allow your rear muguard to contact the rear rack/frame over really big bumps etc.. so you might want to try fitting a slightly longer unit, if you get that problem?
You might also need/want a suitable high pressure air pump too?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BETO-MP-036-Presta-Schradar-Dual-Valve-Bike-Bicycle-Mini-Shock-Pump-Pumper/152476478624?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Good luck & smoother riding!
eglider: Thanks for the suggestion on the shock. After giving the battery a full charge I was able to log 22 miles on level to about +-3% grade today with a couple of sections of +-5% grade. I was running full throttle and peddling in top gear for most all of the time. My avg. speed was 16.1 with a top speed of 33, but mostly running in the 18-20 mph range. I don't think my peddling contributed that much as my effort seemed mostly minimal. Near the end the red battery light went out, I let go of the throttle and then resumed after it came back on a couple of times, seems like it might have gone a little further if I had done this more times. Would you say this is about normal range for the battery?
I loosened the shock nut to no tension when parked, that seemed to eliminate the hop but the spring rattles a bit now when going over a bump as it's unloaded.
Robbie
I loosened the shock nut to no tension when parked, that seemed to eliminate the hop but the spring rattles a bit now when going over a bump as it's unloaded.
Robbie
Fechter, if I swapped-in some good street tires, what is the fastest top speed for a frame like this? 30-MPH perhaps?
I'm occasionally doing 30-MPH on a beach cruiser frame (yikes!)
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