Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Allex]

A real GhettoBlaster!

 

[ridethelightning]

oh man! dont live so close to the edge like that!!!

very easy to make a junction box with waterproof seal/cable glands.

in the pick, the adaptto throttle ebrake wire tucks under display,goes in the back of the box

 

[wingsuit]

edit. fixed my own problem

 

[wingsuit]

edit, fixed my own problem

 

[ridethelightning]

ok so i have increased my pack from 20s to 22s with my mini-e.

im getting max 5.4kw reading.

the top speed is definately faster with the same settings and ovs5

however, the controller is overheating MUCH faster.
before we could climb some steep hills on my 3 seater cargobike and not hit the 70c fet limit.

but now, only a short way up the same hills and the controller rolls back the power bigtime, its already hit 74c+ fet temps.

going easy on the throttle doesnt help.

i was not expecting this with the higher voltage. i thought it would just mean less current for same power, but that shoudnt cause extra heat should it?

somehow theres something different going on with the 22s setup

can anyone surmise why this could be?

 

[wingsuit]

everything now works except 2 things. the firmware wont seem to update (it says successful but when i restart it shows the old firmware on load screen) seems to have wrecked my sd card for pc's too so i have to go get a new one.

charger wont initiate either. I measure 48v at the plug, and its all wired right, but when i connect to my charge port it just sticks on a screen that says detecting charger, but shows no input voltage, and just sits there forever.

spent the whole weekend getting the bike all together finally after a year of work. shame it didnt turn out more successful, ive got an email in to the adaptto team.

 

[Doctorbass]

Can someone help me with this? :

Why am i unabel to quit the CHARGING process that normalle can be stop by pressing the down button?
I have firmware RC9e

The down button work with all the other functions...

But it wont work to stop teh charging proceess.

I need to disconnect the controelr from the battery to stop it...

any idea?

Doc

 

[Doctorbass]

ok so i have increased my pack from 20s to 22s with my mini-e.

im getting max 5.4kw reading.

the top speed is definately faster with the same settings and ovs5

however, the controller is overheating MUCH faster.
before we could climb some steep hills on my 3 seater cargobike and not hit the 70c fet limit.

but now, only a short way up the same hills and the controller rolls back the power bigtime, its already hit 74c+ fet temps.

going easy on the throttle doesnt help.

i was not expecting this with the higher voltage. i thought it would just mean less current for same power, but that shoudnt cause extra heat should it?

somehow theres something different going on with the 22s setup

can anyone surmise why this could be?

I guess your motor is a high speed winding right?

Normally when controller heat they are working with motor like kv of 12 or higher. witch require higher phase amp.

my advice... if you run 22s like me... DONT use a high speed motor! better use a medium speed and use the OVS to compensate and get your desired top speed.

otherwise stay with 20s and keep your fast motor. :wink:

Doc

 

[Larseren]

Hi Doc, if you see my earlier post 2 pages back where i wonder:"Does any of you know what the setting in charge menu 2/2 "ChgSensor inv yes" means?

If you set this to yes it will exit charge mode, I cannot get out of charge mode before i toggle this to yes.

Lars

 

[ridethelightning]

ok so i have increased my pack from 20s to 22s with my mini-e.

im getting max 5.4kw reading.

the top speed is definately faster with the same settings and ovs5

however, the controller is overheating MUCH faster.
before we could climb some steep hills on my 3 seater cargobike and not hit the 70c fet limit.

but now, only a short way up the same hills and the controller rolls back the power bigtime, its already hit 74c+ fet temps.

going easy on the throttle doesnt help.

i was not expecting this with the higher voltage. i thought it would just mean less current for same power, but that shoudnt cause extra heat should it?

somehow theres something different going on with the 22s setup

can anyone surmise why this could be?

I guess your motor is a high speed winding right?

Normally when controller heat they are working with motor like kv of 12 or higher. witch require higher phase amp.

my advice... if you run 22s like me... DONT use a high speed motor! better use a medium speed and use the OVS to compensate and get your desired top speed.

otherwise stay with 20s and keep your fast motor. :wink:

Doc

im getting that loud and clear, but the motor im using is x5404, which i thought was not such a high speed wind.

i actually tried lowering the phase amps in the power mode profiles, using NORMAL setting but still same results.

iv even tried climbing hills at half charge, around 78v or so, still heats up fast..

next i think it will be a heatsink, thermal paste and a wet rag.

 

[Allex]

everything now works except 2 things. the firmware wont seem to update (it says successful but when i restart it shows the old firmware on load screen) seems to have wrecked my sd card for pc's too so i have to go get a new one.

charger wont initiate either. I measure 48v at the plug, and its all wired right, but when i connect to my charge port it just sticks on a screen that says detecting charger, but shows no input voltage, and just sits there forever.

spent the whole weekend getting the bike all together finally after a year of work. shame it didnt turn out more successful, ive got an email in to the adaptto team.

The numbers you see on the boot is firmware for the screen not the controller

 

[striker54]

im getting that loud and clear, but the motor im using is x5404, which i thought was not such a high speed wind.

i actually tried lowering the phase amps in the power mode profiles, using NORMAL setting but still same results.

iv even tried climbing hills at half charge, around 78v or so, still heats up fast..

next i think it will be a heatsink, thermal paste and a wet rag.

Did you run again the autodetect after changing from 20s to 22s ??

 

[Allex]

Normally you need to run auto detect when playing with different voltages. And you shouldn't do auto detect on a fully charged pack nor on a depleted one, but pick a voltage in which you normally operate you bike in.

 

[ridethelightning]

AH! thanks guys! i certainly haddnt thought of that. it never occurred to me that i might need to autodetect again after changing voltage.

that might explain why i was still getting high temps even with a half drained pack, which would have been like 20s just under full charge..

ill try tomorrow and report

 

[Boestin]

Normally you need to run auto detect when playing with different voltages. And you shouldn't do auto detect on a fully charged pack nor on a depleted one, but pick a voltage in which you normally operate you bike in.

Why is that? The auto detect functionality "only" changes the hall positions right? With a slightly different voltage it does not matter much I think?

 

[wingsuit]

The numbers you see on the boot is firmware for the screen not the controller

thanks Allex, no wonder. thats confusing, i thought it was showing me current firmware

still need to figure out charger. it just stalls on this screen.

everything is wired right and I have 48v at the plug that connnects to the bike. it just gets to this screen then nothing happens.

 

[wingsuit]

this is what goes to the bike. and I opened up the frame and everything is connected according to diagram. black wire goes to the controller, red wire goes to one of the phase wires on the motor.

 

[Allex]

Do you have you phase wires connected? They need to be during the ride AND charge.

 

[ohzee]

It sounds like you unplugged a phase wire to plug in the charger when you really need to keep the phase wires connected and somehow splice into one of them with the charger.

 

[Allex]

Normally you need to run auto detect when playing with different voltages. And you shouldn't do auto detect on a fully charged pack nor on a depleted one, but pick a voltage in which you normally operate you bike in.

Why is that? The auto detect functionality "only" changes the hall positions right? With a slightly different voltage it does not matter much I think?

Not quite, it also changes Ind timing

 

[wingsuit]

Do you have you phase wires connected? They need to be during the ride AND charge.

yeah i basically did it like this. Everythings inside the bike so i cant unplug a phase wire.


it knows somethings up as when my plug is not connected it says voltage not detected, and when i plug my cable in it sits in the detecting charger screen.

 

[wingsuit]

never mind there being 2 red and 2 black. its just cause i had a 4 plug connector so I split the wire to reduce chance of high amps being an issue.

at the plug the 2 reds join and go the the phase wire, and the 2 blacks join and go to the controller bullet jack with the female bullet

 

[Doctorbass]

Hi Doc, if you see my earlier post 2 pages back where i wonder:"Does any of you know what the setting in charge menu 2/2 "ChgSensor inv yes" means?

If you set this to yes it will exit charge mode, I cannot get out of charge mode before i toggle this to yes.

Lars

Hello Lars,

Thnaks for your solution, However It is already set to YES.. the problem i have is: If i set it to charge mode, it is OK but when i want to terminate or exit the cahrge mode it just wont work.. It is indicated PRESS down arrow to STOP charging but it does not work... !

Doc

 

[ridethelightning]

never mind there being 2 red and 2 black. its just cause i had a 4 plug connector so I split the wire to reduce chance of high amps being an issue.

at the plug the 2 reds join and go the the phase wire, and the 2 blacks join and go to the controller bullet jack with the female bullet

nice girly sticker :lol:

i take it you have it set up so the coil is disconnected when you finish charge and ride?

 

[wingsuit]

yeah coil is disconnect during riding.

update: found the problem!! stupid fracking charger. I bought 2 chargers 1 for home 1 for work.

1 eaton from allex (works great)

I had connected the other charger. it showed 48v but must not be putting through any amps or something. as soon as i wired up the eaton is starting pumping away. its alive.

i dont get it, the ad states 10a supply
http://www.ebay.com/itm/480W-48V10A-Power-Supply-PSU-For-CNC-Stepper-Motor-Driver-M542-M542H-M860H-2M542-/361272302148?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541d81da44

after the ride today i might step up to the max-e. still super fun