Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Thanks for the tuning tips guys. I followed the procedure with the motor doing about 10-15km/hr but couldn't really hear any difference +/- the ballpark settings others were using (not over the sound of the freewheel ratcheting away anyway). It seems to be running well around the suggested settings. It's thirstier than I've seen with previous controllers and motors but it is a high speed wind cro-clone running mx knobbys that tops out at just over 100km/hr so I guess that's to be expected. With such a high top speed I wasn't expecting as much torque but still set a nice progressive noob friendly throttle curve that didnt have too much kick below half throttle. You can imagine my surprise when I mashed the throttle at 50km/hr and the front wheel came up! Holy shit balls batman :shock: :twisted: :twisted:
 
Doctorbass said:
Today during a ride i got 16kW burst recorded on my Adaptto MAX-E :twisted: :twisted: after i have played with the traction LS current and have set it to 160A

Doc
Click to expand...

I would like to know if the previous record (lower than 16kW) was with LS enable to OFF?
 
bigbore said:
Doctorbass said:
Today during a ride i got 16kW burst recorded on my Adaptto MAX-E :twisted: :twisted: after i have played with the traction LS current and have set it to 160A

Doc
Click to expand...

I would like to know if the previous record (lower than 16kW) was with LS enable to OFF?
Click to expand...


Yes it was!
 
So I finally managed to upgrade the firmware on my Mini-E. Turns out it was the old SD cards I was using. A new Kingston SDHC 4GB card did the trick and I was able to upgrade to RC9e.

Unfortunately it hasn't fixed my issue. I still get no power readings, can't run Autodetect, and it pulls infinite power when turning the wheel, until it trips my BMS. Scary what to think if I had connected it up to my LiPo, as it has no BMS or current limiting at all!
I'm in touch with Adaptto support trying to figure it out, but I think chances are I will need to send it back for investigation/warranty repairs.

In the mean time, I might connect my old (intermittent) Infineon controller again. So I don't have to change the halls plug (again), does anyone know what the name of the 7 pin halls connector is?

Cheers
 
striker54 said:
Cowardlyduck said:
So I don't have to change the halls plug (again), does anyone know what the name of the 7 pin halls connector is?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Search for "ip67 7pin"
Click to expand...
Thanks!
This one looks to be a match.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IP67-IP6...ric-Cable-Wire-Connector-M14-7-/291050868476?
ux_a13103100ux0050_ux_c.jpg

Does that look right to others also?

Cheers
 
Hi everyone

Long time lurker first time poster.
I have finally completed my raptor. (4th ebike. CroV2. adaptto max e.)
I`m using the adaptto 30a charge coil and a 350w 48v meanwell to charge my 18s2p 10ah lipo pack

everything seems normal until the charging prosess enters the CV phase. the charging seems to keep restarting.
"charge current to low"
"detecting charger"
amps starts flowing for a couple of secound then
"charge current to low"
"detecting charger"

Is this normal behavior?
My pack is a bit out of balance but not much and the adaptto bms keeps working away while the charging prosess restarts over and over and over again.

I made a short video
https://youtu.be/kK7D4iziGho
 
I have a eltek flatpack on the way, but do you really think that is the problem. It works just fine in the CC phase, its when its running low current at the end of the charge the problem occurs.
 
Small update
I set the maximum cell voltage to 4.1v and the charge voltage to 74.1v (4.11v) when it cycled between detecting charger and charge current to low
I figured that is wrong, so i upped the maximum cell voltage to 4.15. the bms probably ended the charging when it hit max cell volt

It still cycles at end of charge, now between detecting charger and end of cv charge
 
Guys I am having a problem here, I think I'm f*cked :)

Is there a known issue of "overcharging" the controller?

I have a mini-e's, locked firmware with PAS option and on-off switch. Battery: 20s 20ah samsung 25r.

Right after the charging was finished it didn't function anymore. The hub couldn't move, when activating the throttle. It couldn't do anything!
What could it be? My first instinct was to deactivate everything, power off for a while, then did a complete reset. Result: same problem.
Then I tried to autodetect: Halls error 1. WTF?

So I opened up the hallconnector from the controller side and measured a short :shock:

How is this possible? My charger is a eaton which delivers about 1,6KW with a mini-charging coil from adaptto?
Obviously there is a short in the controller. Could it be overheated during the charge?
Help please! :oops:
 
If you mean supply vdrop. Then yes.
I set it to 7v just to be sure.
After updating to the newest firmware, the balancing does not turn off. great feature, but it has been balancing all night and the pack is now 0.013v out of balance. it was 0.08v when i left it.

end charge voltage was set to 74.1
balance voltage 4.05
max voltage 4.18

I changed the balance voltage to 4.11
that should take care of the endless balancing hopefully.
it seems that the charging prosess is completing, but immediately starts again as pack voltage constantly flips between 74.0 volts and 74.2 volts.
voltage seems to fluctuate 0.3v even when not charging. this is a adaptto problem. my multimeter does not fluctuate when probing pack voltage
 
Boestin said:
Guys I am having a problem here, I think I'm f*cked :)

Is there a known issue of "overcharging" the controller?

I have a mini-e's, locked firmware with PAS option and on-off switch. Battery: 20s 20ah samsung 25r.

Right after the charging was finished it didn't function anymore. The hub couldn't move, when activating the throttle. It couldn't do anything!
What could it be? My first instinct was to deactivate everything, power off for a while, then did a complete reset. Result: same problem.
Then I tried to autodetect: Halls error 1. WTF?

So I opened up the hallconnector from the controller side and measured a short :shock:

How is this possible? My charger is a eaton which delivers about 1,6KW with a mini-charging coil from adaptto?
Obviously there is a short in the controller. Could it be overheated during the charge?
Help please! :oops:
Click to expand...

does the hub turn freely when you try to spin it by hand? if not, possible phase wire short too.

is the short on the halls connector on the motor side or the controller?

im thinking theres some wires stripped or in contact somehow. otherwise, if the +5v in controller for halls has been shorted it might mean replacing a resistor i think...
 
larghio, It is normal that the charging goes on and off while you have balancing enabled. BMS drain the cells and after that, charging process do a top up.
I never recommend having the balancing enabled during all the chargers(not good for the batteries). I set it up once in a while when I notice that my packs go out of balance, like 0,03V
After this I charge it up to 4,2V(or whatever your fetish is) disconnect the charger, set balancing to the lowest cell at current state of charge, for examle 4,17 and leave the bike.
Of cource it will take forever to balance down from 4,18 to 4,05(even 4,11)
 
ridethelightning said:
Boestin said:
Guys I am having a problem here, I think I'm f*cked :)

Is there a known issue of "overcharging" the controller?

I have a mini-e's, locked firmware with PAS option and on-off switch. Battery: 20s 20ah samsung 25r.

Right after the charging was finished it didn't function anymore. The hub couldn't move, when activating the throttle. It couldn't do anything!
What could it be? My first instinct was to deactivate everything, power off for a while, then did a complete reset. Result: same problem.
Then I tried to autodetect: Halls error 1. WTF?

So I opened up the hallconnector from the controller side and measured a short :shock:

How is this possible? My charger is a eaton which delivers about 1,6KW with a mini-charging coil from adaptto?
Obviously there is a short in the controller. Could it be overheated during the charge?
Help please! :oops:
Click to expand...

does the hub turn freely when you try to spin it by hand? if not, possible phase wire short too.

is the short on the halls connector on the motor side or the controller?

im thinking theres some wires stripped or in contact somehow. otherwise, if the +5v in controller for halls has been shorted it might mean replacing a resistor i think...
Click to expand...


The short is on the controller side. Brownwires shorts with everything :cry: The hub spins freely when twisting by hand.
Replacing a resistor by myself affects the warranty I think, same as opening the controller case. I want to find out whats wrong, see more then only a couple of wires coming out of the box, but afraid to lose warranty.
 
Yes. I figured that could be normal behavior. But it is the same when i disable bms. Is it normal to have the pack voltage fluctuate on the display when pack i sitting idle. ie not charging riding or balancing?
 
Well this escalated quickly!

First I thought I had a hall issue, turns out it was shorted on the controller side, right? Anyway, I have another one fried/broken.
Listen:

I connected my second mini-e (also locked firmware, same story) and my bike was alive once again! I went cycling and hooked up afterwards with the Eaton. With the other broken mini-e in my thoughts, I sat next to the charging process which was going smooth as expected. The fans of the Eaton were slowly getting louder and the incoming watts were about 1700W. Time to full charge: 20 minutes. Fet temperature at start: 35 Celsius.
Waiting and waiting... FETs were getting warmer: 45 Celsius, still no issue. After waiting for a while the charging was finished and it was balancing! End fettemperature: 53 Celsius.

There! I was putting the throttle and POOF. Smoke was coming out of the second one.

Now I am sitting here with two fried mini's. Could it have been a bad batch? Or..perhaps the charger? No warnings were given and all of the battery fuses are still ok.

I contacted Adaptto too.
 
I've been trying to fine tune the MAX E with the MXUS after autocorrect and found a dramatic difference. AutoDetect puts my angle at -4.18 (or something like that), but when I change it to above +3.45 the wheel speed reaches 58mph and starts skipping (I think due to the speed limit), but it was like night and day! I'm surprised autodetect had a setting that was so off! Anyone experience this with the MXUS motor?

I tried changing the angles...and generally the motor is very quite with the exception of a faint whine (when off the ground, not present when riding on the road). But I can't seem to get the wheel to be completely silent.

Also, in order to manually tweak the Angle, Ind timing, PWR, etc, do you have to choose a number, exit out of the entire setup menus, save and then test out the new setting? Or can you just cycle through different settings without exiting and saving?

Anyone have any specific settings for the MXUS 4T that work very well with the MAX E?
 
In health monitor U:, hall voltage and mosfet temp fluctuate alot. in charge menu pack voltage and supply voltage fluctuate. even when no supply is connected. (or the coil)
this has to be the reason for the constant charge loop at end of charge. how are yours? do they move at all? mine float 0.3v. are all these values stable?
I made a short video: https://youtu.be/0cx3giwwLqw
 
I am trying to tell people that Manual tuning is the only thing that really works, it is very seldom that Autosetup finds the best values. But everybody seems to fully rely on Auto, oh well it is their loss.
Yes the MXUS will always wine a bit no matter angle number. You tweak every setting on the fly, so hold the throttle and browse with the arrows to change the value while motor is spinning.
 
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