Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[skWarDog]

Calibrate your throttle and regen first in "Calibration" menu.
Direction should be "+" (if "-" switch any 2 phase wires)
Angle Corr- "0"
Ind Timing- "0400us"
Power Timing- "1.5"
OVS- "0"
Hall Offset- "240"
Hall Rev- "yes"
Wire Rev- "yes"
Wire R PHL- "no"
Control Method- "Auto/Sine"

Make sure your throttle increases in voltage.....
You can turn regen off

 

[Boestin]

So almost 10KW with a mini-e.. Thats pretty sick :lol: I achieved it with applying the LVC "hack".

That is so awesome. Do you mean the traction control 'hack', or is there another one with LVC?

Cheers

I meant LS, sorry!

I know now why my controller stayed cool, it was because the wrong internal temp sensor was used.. Lucky nothing blew up inside, but still if that happened it falls under warranty I believe. Anyway, I changed the setting from KTY84 to KTY83 and suddenly this thing is overheating really fast. HS4080 actually stays pretty cool, about 64 Celsius. The motor temp sensor is now working too, it is the setting NTC10K > maybe Crystalyte uses this for all the HS4080's.

About the LS, this is crazy stuff... It changes my bicycle to a beast! But after three or four times accelerating to about 70kph it's overheating and the controller kicks in to regulate my temptations . I still don't know why the stuttering happens.


What are your experiences so far cowardlyduck, any luck with the settings? I can help you by posting some pictures probably with the hall settings. Tell me what you need!

 

[Boestin]

Try Autodetect without your phone or anything hooked up to the USB Port.....
Does the hall sequence increase positive (ie 1-2-3-4-5-6)?

I couldn't get Autodetect to work at all. I will try again tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure nothing was connected to the USB on many of my attempts...but not all. Every time I would select auto detect and slowly turn the throttle (like it says to in the manual) it would instantly say cancelled by throttle twist.

In my first attempt I couldn't use the Autodetect too. It was because I soldered wires in the connector the wrong direction (in the picture it's showing from the front..)

 

[skWarDog]

Sumting Broke!?
Damn! Just as I was starting to get the hang of all these settings and "fine tuning" for trowing 6kw shots.. "!Halls!"...or did I just learn enough to be dangerous !!
Yesterday, I was working on my 12 o'clock salute, mini-e tuned for instant power, when I first noticed the "Halls!" come on. Not thinking much of it, cus it's been running great, I continued on my ride.

A few miles later, It started again.... by the end of the ride, I was only able to run sensor-less. I don't think it's the halls in the motor, as sometimes they register in the health monitor strong and in order and sequencing correct (001,010,100)? However, I will check with a DMM tomorrow. I don't think it an FET, the motor is smooth and easily maintains 40mph in "sensor-less".......... Is it possible it could be a resistor? 113 or something I think I read on this thread?

Any help here is appreciated!!

 

[Jackrabbit]

I think you need to measure the voltage from the halls plug coming from the controller, it should be 4-5v I think. If not then it's the resistor on the board. I think C2reak had this problem with his Max-E.

 

[Boestin]

Yes, probably one off the halls is failing.. Just curious, how was the temperature of the fets during the sensorless ride?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far guys. Tried your settings skWarDog, but not working for me. What motor are you using?

What are your experiences so far cowardlyduck, any luck with the settings? I can help you by posting some pictures probably with the hall settings. Tell me what you need!

I'll explain below, but yes, could you please post the same set of photo's as I have below. That would help me out a lot, and tell me if I have a busted hall sensor.

I discovered the reason I could not get it to auto detect was because I had calibrated my variable regen sensor when the temperature was different...so the lowest voltage threshold had drifted causing it to always be on. Once I disconnected it, it allowed me to try autodetect...and this was the result...every time.

post some screens of you motor settings.

Good idea! Apologies for the photo spam.

With these settings I was able to get a result. Not from autodetect, but from riding. It is completely silent, and pulls REALLY hard. I've only tested in the back yard, so not up to full speed yet. It pulls so much current it trips the BMS in my old Stealth battery...mind you it can probably only manage about 50A peak by now.

The above settings don't seem right to me however. When I lift the rear wheel, and go WOT, it pulsates at full speed.
I also don't seem to be getting any power usage readings when riding.
If I set the halls angle to anything else, I get a !HALLS! error.

Could I have a faulty or failing hall sensor like skWarDog? I hope not...just got all this together at last.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

saw somewhere that wire r phc, when switched to yes, enables another adjustment to be registered. if set to no, then the autodetect will set that setting and ignore the manual setting....just cant think what the setting was... :|

iv had various responses with autodetect. sometimes it gives a good setting straight up, sometimes it takes several cycles to actually get it to be really silky smooth and vicious.
once i spun it up after id upgraded my phases, it sounded like a meatgrinder! it took about 4-5 cycles of autodetect to clean it up, each cycle the rough noise getting slightly smoother.

 

[Allex]

Angle cor. at 60 degrees is wrong, it should be around +/-5 tops

it is normal that it pulsate at high speed when you lift the wheel - speed protection is kicking in.

 

[Boestin]

Screen dumps below! Make sure you get all of the images, because somehow imgur did not resize all of them. If you have any problems viewing, go here: http://imgur.com/a/c1WN7
I hope u guys don't have hallissues!!


Main screen:

Wattmeter:

Health monitor:

Charge status:

Battery status:

Regen setup 1/3:

Regen setup 2/3:

Regen setup 3/3:

Charge setup 1/2:

Charge setup 2/2:

Advanced setup 1/5:

Advanced setup 2/5:

Advanced setup 3/5:

Advanced setup 4/5:

Advanced setup 5/5:

Traction setup 1/6:

Traction setup 2/6:

Traction setup 3/6:

Traction setup 4/6:

Traction setup 5/6:

Traction setup 6/6:

Calibration 1/3:

Calibration 2/3:

Calibration 3/3:

Interface setup 1/3:

Interface setup 2/3:

Interface setup 3/3:

BMS setup 1/2

BMS setup 2/2

New helmet, to protect my precious brains

 

[skWarDog]

I think you need to measure the voltage from the halls plug coming from the controller, it should be 4-5v I think. If not then it's the resistor on the board. I think C2reak had this problem with his Max-E.

Thanks Jackrabbit! Yup, just as I suspected, Halls are only getting .5 - 1.5 volts. Must be that 113 resistor? 2 - 8 ohms, huh? I know if I send it to Moscow, be mid-July before I get it back!?!?!/

Yes, probably one off the halls is failing.. Just curious, how was the temperature of the fets during the sensorless ride?

Hall sensors are fine......My motor or controller never gets over 120 deg. F.... Adaptto Controller failure, needs better hardware!?!

Duck, I'm running a Clyte 40110 with high quality lamination's and magnet wire.... bullet-proof and runs clean

 

[skWarDog]

SMD components?? Sooooo, I imagine if I can't read the # on the resistor, kinda counts me out for doing this repair with my Radio Shack soldering set-up, successfully anyway!!?? The resistor doesn't even look like it goes through the board...... better call one of my buddy's from McDoug's, see about some ceramic cap upgrades too......wtf. under the pocket microscope, looks like "3R9"..... 3.9 ohms? Help Adaptto E-Drive labs?

 

[Brake]

http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=23722.0
Halls error fix thread. Google translate. Just FYI

 

[Cowardlyduck]

http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=23722.0<br abp="682">Halls error fix thread. Google translate. Just FYI

Thanks Brake.
I'll try and do some testing in the next few days to see what voltage my Halls power Pins are outputting to see if this is my issue. Just like crea2k3 posted on the ru forum, it is also the case for me:

The strange thing is that the display unit says that the halls voltage is 4.85 volts

Although I'm yet to test the actual halls output to see if it is not outputting that voltage however.

If that is my issue, I'm interested in this work around though:

I took a 5v feed from the usb port of the display unit and soldered it to the halls 5v input only, then took a ground from the display unit and soldered it to the motor to controller ground wire, just to make sure they are using a common ground and it now works fine, so for now il leave this bodge in place until I can take the controller apart to look at the power supply circuit for the halls

Doing that would save me having to send the controller around the world to get fixed.

Cheers

 

[skWarDog]

http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=23722.0
Halls error fix thread. Google translate. Just FYI

There...... I fixed it! Bought a Max-E and sending the Mini-E to Moscow for warranty repair and slave training.....HA! 2wd this winter with 20 kw bursts and 12 kw continuous........ It's all about the Bass, right Doctor?

 

[Offroader]

I think you need to measure the voltage from the halls plug coming from the controller, it should be 4-5v I think. If not then it's the resistor on the board. I think C2reak had this problem with his Max-E.

I believe the Halls voltage should be around 4.8 or something, even 4.3 volts will cause the !halls! error, or if the resistor is shot the halls voltage will still read in the low 4 volts. If you have the !Halls! error you have to run an ohm meter over the resistor to check if it is shot.

Any other value than 3.9 Ohms means your halls resistor is shot.

If shot it will usually read like a million ohms or something high like this.

 

[Jackrabbit]

I've just spent a little while messing about with the angle correction setting. I found that changing it from -3.79 to -0.8 increased the unloaded speed from 45mph to 58mph with OVS on 0. I'm not sure how this effects efficiency though, the motor doesn't seem any louder and runs smoothly so I think I'll give it a try like this. Auto detect set it at -3.79.

 

[ewinters]

I understand that the controller should be mounted with wires facing down and away from the water spray from the wheel. The thing is: is there a preferred up/down side? I mean, if some water manage to get inside, it will likely drip on the other, but will it short something in between, and is there a side with less circuit stuff close to the case?

 

[moonshine]

Has anyone found some reliable settings for mxus 4t? I'm having to use ovs4 and pwr 1.4 to get decent power up to 50mph. My setup is pretty light so I'm wondering why I haven't been able to reach 60mph comfortably thoughts?

 

[Allex]

I only get about 90km/h with 4t on latest firmware. so you are fine(it will be a bit faster with ovs7). I guess you know what to do to get it even faster

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Dear Friends,

We've discovered that some emails were not delivered to us because of Yandex (Russian search engine) spam filters.
So Adaptto Team tenders sincere apologies to everyone whoose e-mails were unreplied and we would kindly ask to retry sending those emails once again.
From now we've registered accounts in Gmail and will do our best to avoid such situations in the future:

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Kind regards,

 

[Ohbse]

Guys - for future reference, R113 does not just randomly let go, it's there as protection for the upstream circuits. If it has blown, you have a problem either in your wiring or in the motor itself. Back when I had the core of my HS3540 shift sideways on the splined axle 2mm and this was enough for the side cover interior surface to sand through the hall wiring insulation and short it out. That caused my first failure, no fault of the controller.

Crystalyte is anything but high quality and I would look very closely at everything else before you blame the controller. The infineon type controllers are more tolerant of transitory shorts in the hall wiring, you might not even notice (until they randomly blow up of course)

DO NOT bypass the power feed as a 'fix' for this resistor blowing! It's there to save you headaches.

 

[Offroader]

Guys - for future reference, R113 does not just randomly let go, it's there as protection for the upstream circuits. If it has blown, you have a problem either in your wiring or in the motor itself. Back when I had the core of my HS3540 shift sideways on the splined axle 2mm and this was enough for the side cover interior surface to sand through the hall wiring insulation and short it out. That caused my first failure, no fault of the controller.

Crystalyte is anything but high quality and I would look very closely at everything else before you blame the controller. The infineon type controllers are more tolerant of transitory shorts in the hall wiring, you might not even notice (until they randomly blow up of course)

DO NOT bypass the power feed as a 'fix' for this resistor blowing! It's there to save you headaches.

Just to add not only the halls wiring but the temp probe wiring will also blow this r113 fuse.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Good advice guy's....I'm glad I'm so busy and I didn't try anything like that yet then.

Some more, brief, playing around last night with settings and I was able to get it semi functional with 180° hall angle and similar settings to Boestin, but I was going from memory as I didn't have access to the images above...will have to try again I think.
I still couldn't get autodetect to work as it would always draw too much current and trip the BMS in my battery.

I also notice that I'm not getting any amp/watt readings on the display...is this normal before AutoDetect has run? I'm wondering if I need to calibrate a shunt or something to get watt readings to display.

Cheers

 

[moonshine]

Is there a standard approach to "tuning" the maxE for the best settings?