Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[ridethelightning]

the best tweak is to give to the gf bike and get a max-e :lol:

i think perhaps it just cant produce the grunt as is has only 6fets(?)

mine is on 22s, with ovs 5, increased pwr timing etc but its just not moto material.

itl get to 85kph though, and pull some serious weight up steep hills....but not for the high performance bike.

 

[wingsuit]

yeah i think ive come to the conclusion i need a max-e

a dangerous proposition, as my current battery just gets me home from work (30km)

haha im gonna cut that in half with that kind of power at my hands.

 

[ridethelightning]

:lol: yeah....slippery slope isnt it?....need 2kwh min....electron guzzling monster

 

[Allex]

Wingsuit didn't you run A Cro, you should have ok Torque at start up. Search for motor settings for your motor in this thread, PWR should be around 1.5-2.0

 

[moonshine]

Do people have tried and true mxus v2 4t settings for the Max-E?

 

[wingsuit]

Wingsuit didn't you run A Cro, you should have ok Torque at start up. Search for motor settings for your motor in this thread, PWR should be around 1.5-2.0

allex, I do have a cromotor but havent found settings that gives me good off the line power. once it gets to 10-15kph it gets a little life and feels like it pulls a bit better.

 

[qwøck]

I am in the mood for a new battery pack for my mini-e. Does anyone know when the battery voltage starts compromising the _power_ the fets can handle?
A good point is that most batteries will have a slightly lower voltage under load. That is when it´s important to not have to high voltage, right?
Would it be safe to go full power with fully charged battery 22s @ 90v max? I think the adaptto restricting kicks in at 91v.
Or, should I go with a 21 or 20s setup? (86v and 82v)

 

[ridethelightning]

i have mini-e at 22s. doesnt seem to restrict any power. definately feels peppier than the 20s it used to be.

ionly charge to 4.1v/cell though.

 

[Scott]

FYI I also run mini-e daily at 4.9kw without issue. Controller heat is very low.

Tempting to flash unlocked firmware and crank it up a bit...

Could you please post your settings?

I am currently using a mini-E and it starts limiting my power in around 1/2 of a mile with WOT.

Also I have a cromotor v2.

 

[GiantEV]

all i want is more torque. I spend all kind of time thinking about how to tweak my mini-e to get better off the line speed.
has anyone with a mini managed to get it to feel snappy off the line?

Mine was snappy with my mini-e but I was also running a 20" wheel. I recommend working on tuning a little more.

 

[moonshine]

Will the BMS sort this out? I set it to 4.10 even though one of the cells is lower than 4.10. Should I set it lower than the lowest cell voltage? I thought the higher cells would average out the lower ones.

Are those cell lines filled with dud(s)? Should I be concerned or will the BMS balance everything out?

 

[Scott]

Will the BMS sort this out? I set it to 4.10 even though one of the cells is lower than 4.10. Should I set it lower than the lowest cell voltage? I thought the higher cells would average out the lower ones.

Are those cell lines filled with dud(s)? Should I be concerned or will the BMS balance everything out?

The BMS will only drain down the cells that are over 4.10 volts (your setting). To bring the lower one up the whole pack will need to be charged. For all of the cells to be the same (or within 0.008 volts) every cell must be charged to at least 4.10 volts (not over 4.20 though). Then the bms will bring all of the cells down to 4.10 volts. If one cell hits the maximum limit (probably set to 4.20v) then the controller will stop charging the pack until the BMS brings down the top cell(s) to 4.19v. Then it will charge to 4.20v again if the total pack voltage is still under your set amount in the charging setup.

 

[Boestin]

Received a custom Samsung 25R pack with 72v/20ah and connected it up with the mini-e and balanceboard.
I blew up the 3rd board So I hooked it up with number 6 and no issues there, Still the board is scrap. I tried it with another BMS board from Adaptto and same there, red light en it gets hot really quick! So, I disconnected it instantly to prevent it from blowing up as well. Does anyone know if there is a polarity difference with the others?

 

[Allex]

You need to check you balancing connectors if they are wires up properly to adapttos layout.

 

[Boestin]

You need to check you balancing connectors if they are wires up properly to adapttos layout.

The pack was custom made for me and I don't really want to cut the protectionskin off to see how the wires were connected. I find it a bit strange that connector 3 was different. Anyway, connected on board 6 it works fine!


I just peaked 9.9KW with the Mini-E. Scary stuff!!

 

[ridethelightning]

you need to put the ground of your meter on the bottom pin of the 1st connector, and work up to the top with the pos+ probe, checking the voltage intervals are correct. they should increase by units of a single cell voltage.

also, never unhook a sub-pack sreries connection while the bms jst plugs are connected.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I just peaked 9.9KW with the Mini-E. Scary stuff!!

Nuts!
That's gotta be a record!
Is that locked or unlocked firmware?

Cheers

 

[Boestin]

Locked (!), speed is limited at 80kph. Really scary ride though. I'll make some pictures

 

[Boestin]

Edit message before. The Mini-e firmware is locked! I didn't read it correctly.

So almost 10KW with a mini-e.. Thats pretty sick :lol: I achieved it with applying the LVC "hack". But it not a smooth drive at all! For example, when I am cruising around 40Kph and turn the throttle just a bit more, the bike literary takes off. Then around 65 it starts to bump and stutter. Eventually the display says Low Batt. Then I have to wait a couple of secs so I can do it again. Surprisingly the FET's stay pretty cool.

Anti thief is not working here BTW, what could it be? It is activated by locking the controller right?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

So almost 10KW with a mini-e.. Thats pretty sick :lol: I achieved it with applying the LVC "hack".

That is so awesome. Do you mean the traction control 'hack', or is there another one with LVC?

Cheers

 

[Ohbse]

FYI I also run mini-e daily at 4.9kw without issue. Controller heat is very low.

Tempting to flash unlocked firmware and crank it up a bit...

Could you please post your settings?

I am currently using a mini-E and it starts limiting my power in around 1/2 of a mile with WOT.

Also I have a cromotor v2.

Hey Scott

Something definitely not right with your auto-detect if you're getting hot that quick, I'm running for 12 miles at 35mph with lots of full throttle starts and barely hitting luke warm.

Current settings for my Cro V3
Angle Corr. 0.82 degrees
Angle Corr2 0.00
Ind timing 0366uS
PWR timing +1.22
Wire R,mOhm 091
Motor KV 6818
Wire R PHC YES

This particular phase/hall combo i'm running auto-detected a bit different than the previous and runs better. Manual tweaking with Cromotor seem pretty essential. I haven't spent much time getting mine dialed in further as I'm pretty satisfied with it as it sits.

I tried out bumping the battery current up using the LS current tweak, ran that for a day or two but ended up turning it back off and going back to the 60a limit as it had some slightly strange issues with surging throttle at constant speed and was slightly more abrupt in power delivery than it should have been. Back to 4.9kw, still tempted to unlock it though...

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I finally got around to mounting my screen and began testing my Mini-E with my HS4080 today.

I also rigged up an old phone with a dead speaker to be my dash/GPS. I used stick on magnets attached to the back of the phone and top of the heat-set. Seems really solid and a quick rough test ride around the back yard did not make it move or come off at all.

I did not however manage to get my Motor running properly.
It seems the HS4080 does not have hall sensors (or angle) that the Adaptto wants to work with easily. I spent a good couple of hours trying all sorts of different hall setting combinations, but could not for the life of me get it to work. Sensorless works, and I know the hall sensors are good as they worked with an infineon, and I can see them cycling through on the Adaptto stats screen.

If anyone with an Adaptto and an HS4080 (or HS4060) could please post their settings I would be most grateful. I searched, but noone seems to have posted these settings previously.

Cheers

 

[skWarDog]

I finally got around to mounting my screen and began testing my Mini-E with my HS4080 today.

I also rigged up an old phone with a dead speaker to be my dash/GPS.
I did not however manage to get my Motor running properly.
It seems the HS4080 does not have hall sensors (or angle) that the Adaptto wants to work with easily. I spent a good couple of hours trying all sorts of different hall setting combinations, but could not for the life of me get it to work. Sensorless works, and I know the hall sensors are good as they worked with an infineon, and I can see them cycling through on the Adaptto stats screen.

If anyone with an Adaptto and an HS4080 (or HS4060) could please post their settings I would be most grateful. I searched, but noone seems to have posted these settings previously.

Cheers

Try Autodetect without your phone or anything hooked up to the USB Port.....
Does the hall sequence increase positive (ie 1-2-3-4-5-6)?

 

[Allex]

post some screens of you motor settings.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Try Autodetect without your phone or anything hooked up to the USB Port.....
Does the hall sequence increase positive (ie 1-2-3-4-5-6)?

I couldn't get Autodetect to work at all. I will try again tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure nothing was connected to the USB on many of my attempts...but not all. Every time I would select auto detect and slowly turn the throttle (like it says to in the manual) it would instantly say cancelled by throttle twist. Leaving it at the Autodetect screen did nothing. Is there something I need to do to get Autodetect to work?

From memory, the hall sequence was increasing (or decreasing) sequentially, but I did see this behaviour change when I messed around with the angle and offset settings. I tried settings to reverse the halls, reverse the wires, and reverse the rotation direction, but no combination seemed to help.

I also tried different Angle Corr settings. The smoothest I managed to get was when I had the halls set to and angle of 120° and set the Angle Corr to 60°, but it was still rough and pulsated once it got up to speed. To me that should mean an angle setting of 60° would work the same, but it didn't.

I also tried the Hall offset setting. It seemed to help with some combinations of other settings when set to 1, but all the others did not help.

With so many variables I think the easiest way is if someone else with a crystalyte HS series motor (even a HS35xx) can post their settings. That would save the day (or weekend in my case) and I might finally get my Fighter back up and running.

Re-reading the manual...I'm really hoping I don't have to do this...

If, during the rotation of the motor numbers "y" sometimes takes the value of "0" or other sequence of digits, the hall sensors are not working properly, or motor sensors have an angle of 60 degree angle. (If 60 degrees - then you need to reverse one of the hall sensors in the motor, not all, but a specific sensor)

That would really, really suck now that I've got almost everything put together, and my hall sensors are buried in epoxy. :x Lets hope not.

Cheers