Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

madin88 said:
It depends mainly on phase amps. also with active mode the motor gets alot hotter than without, but it safes brake pads 8)
Click to expand...

This is true, but it's worth mentioning that 5mph-->0mph results in very little wear versus 40 or 60mph --> 0mph! It's fun to eliminate wear on another part, though. :mrgreen:
 
I'm not so sure about the heat being equal between acceleration and Regen.
It seems to me like Regen creates much more heat at the same amps level than acceleration. I don't know why, or even if it's real...but I've seen it when riding. If I ride up a hill at 30kph using roughly 20-30A I might see 15C increase in temp. Ride back down the same hill, from the same starting temp, at the same speed, pulling the same Regen amps and I've seen 25C+ increase in temps.
It's pretty hard to quantify, but I believe others have also reported such behaviour.

Cheers
 
do you have active on ? (or whatever it's called?)

where instead of slowing the wheel by charging the batteries

it powers the wheel in reverse to slow it


that adds a lot of heat
 
Hey guys,

My Max-E has arrived and installed over the weekend. The motor I am using for now is the Turnigy C80100 – 130kv outrunner sensored. Just having some issue with the controller that I’m hoping someone can help out with..

Autodect completes successfully. Motor runs ok with no load – very loud though. When riding the bike the motor gets much hotter than it should. Looking through the advanced settings on the adaptto, there is a setting for HallOffset (advanced setup 3/5) which Autodetect has set to 180 degrees.

Is this setting the same as hall sensor spacing? In which case it should be 120 degrees as that’s how I have them positioned in the motor..

Cheers,
Alex
 
knighty said:
do you have active on ? (or whatever it's called?)

where instead of slowing the wheel by charging the batteries

it powers the wheel in reverse to slow it


that adds a lot of heat
Click to expand...
No, I'm not yet using my Adaptto. I'm saying this from past experience with standard square wave controllers. Perhaps (hopefully) it will not be the same with the Adaptto when I finally get around to installing it.

Cheers
 
Stielz said:
Hey guys,

My Max-E has arrived and installed over the weekend. The motor I am using for now is the Turnigy C80100 – 130kv outrunner sensored. Just having some issue with the controller that I’m hoping someone can help out with..

Autodect completes successfully. Motor runs ok with no load – very loud though. When riding the bike the motor gets much hotter than it should. Looking through the advanced settings on the adaptto, there is a setting for HallOffset (advanced setup 3/5) which Autodetect has set to 180 degrees.

Is this setting the same as hall sensor spacing? In which case it should be 120 degrees as that’s how I have them positioned in the motor..

Cheers,
Alex
Click to expand...


The autodetect sometime requier some manual retuning. Your motor might havw too much ovs or timing problem.

Doc
 
xenodius said:
This is true, but it's worth mentioning that 5mph-->0mph results in very little wear versus 40 or 60mph --> 0mph! It's fun to eliminate wear on another part, though. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...
exactly :)
with very high phase amps i'm able to lock the wheel almost same like with the hydraulic brakes when active mode kicks in. Its a very nice feature, but as it heats up the motor i leave it disabled most of the time..
btw: what does forced active mode do?
 
I haven't used it much, but I think active mode only uses reverse thrust at low speed, while forced active uses reverse thrust instead of regen even at high speed. It should result in much more heat, unless I misunderstand how they work.
 
for disconnecting the charger to use the bike....

do you need to disconnect the coil etc.. too ? or can we just disconnect the PSU from the coil ?

(just wondering if I can mount the coil on board)
 
knighty said:
for disconnecting the charger to use the bike....

do you need to disconnect the coil etc.. too ? or can we just disconnect the PSU from the coil ?

(just wondering if I can mount the coil on board)
Click to expand...

I know someone mentioned in a previous post that he accidently left the coil connected and he felt a rumbling while driving. I'm going to say you probably can't leave the coil connected.
 
kk, thanks for that

guess I'll have to buy a couple of extra coils to save carrying them around with me :)
 
yep. nup. you gotta disconnect the coil while riding. i put a switch on the neg charge lead to controller which works fine but i often forget to turn it off.

for onboard charging, the perfect solution would be a fet activated by the psu output that engages the coil. im workn on it :D
 
That's good to know about coil disconnection as I was planning on fitting it in my frame.. Probably wont bother now.

Q: As I'm still waiting on stock of multistars I've not got around to hooking up my Max E to my raptor, How are you guys switching the Max E on/off. Are you simply disconnecting a connector? Does this unit have antispark / precharge built in? I think I've read some are leaving them on indefinitely .

Thanks

Jon
 
Jonboy said:
That's good to know about coil disconnection as I was planning on fitting it in my frame.. Probably wont bother now.

Q: As I'm still waiting on stock of multistars I've not got around to hooking up my Max E to my raptor, How are you guys switching the Max E on/off. Are you simply disconnecting a connector? Does this unit have antispark / precharge built in? I think I've read some are leaving them on indefinitely .

Thanks

Jon
Click to expand...

Mine is always connected.
I just turn off the display, that way I can enable the anti-theft protection.
 
Some of the motors I plan to test/use with an adaptto are geared hub motors with a locked clutch (doesn't freewheel). I am hoping someone has a similar experience in this matter. According to the manual, a 'Speed Ratio' needs to be set, which I assume is their version of a wheel circumference. So the plan is to divide the wheel circumference by the number of pole pairs, then divide that number by the reduction ratio of the geared hub motors.

Anyone see any flaws or errors in this?
 
Hi Guys sorry this is a crapy photobucket pic I'm not that up on photo bucket but needed to show this diagram in reasonable res..

This is my take on how i'm going to hook up my cro v3 , MaxE & 20s2p multistars (10 4s 16000mah) with my raptor. be cool If one of you Adaptto vets could cast your eye over it just to check I'm sucking the wright t*t...



http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah145/jonathan_middleton1/maxe%20wiring%2020_zpskqqyzbxl.jpg
 
Jonboy said:
I guess a ceramic resistor? What value are you using?
Click to expand...

I just bought a cheap 1 watt 100 ohm resistor and hold it temporary between positive connection, any resistor should work around those values, I then quickly plug everything in to avoid the spark.

I wait a good 10 seconds after the screen comes on to make sure all the caps are charged up in the controller. You have to plug those connectors in as fast as you can after holding the resistor or you may get a small spark.

Best would be to make a separate wire/connection to a resistor but if you are only plugging and unplugging the battery a few times a year then it might not be worth the trouble.

I would without a doubt use a resistor even if you do it in the way I do it because you will slightly damage the connectors each time. Before using the resistor my large 6mm connectors got so burnt up that they got super hot while riding the bike and I even heard noises one time coming from the connections and they were slightly sparking inside.
 
I was thinking of using a really high vale resistor... so I could leave it connected permanently... but the power drain through the resistor would be so small I wouldn't have to worry about it

no idea how well that would work tho tbh
 
Hi Jon

That looks ok. I decided to fit a DC circuit breaker inside the battery box and then cut into the red wire on the display cable, I then fitted a key switch and a handle bar kill switch into that circuit. I just key it on when I want to ride and should I find myself flying along with the throttle stuck wide open I can shut the bike down with the kill switch. The draw on the battery is minimal with it left connected so I don't worry about that too much.


 
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