Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
striker54 said:
also, you should check the pack is pretty much balanced before you start charging
(it should be if you have the bms, but worth checking, in case you have a bad cell etc..)
if the pack is out of balance before you start charging, some cells could be over charged, because the bms won't be able to turn your charger off
GreenRoad
100 W
knighty said:
If use want to bee 99% sure that the charging ends - if one of your cells getting in an failure - you have to use the charging coil.
If you use an "normal" charging device direct to the pack - you getting no feedback - the charger brings you only the voltage to the battery - without any feedback to the single status of the cells.
I use also a normal 14S charger with the adaptto BMS - and check the cell voltage over the display.
If you use good cells - it should be no problem - because the cells differenc should be not so much. (10 -20mV is okay)
But you have to know how you could see if the cells are good or not.
The balancing also works without an external charging coild - but you have no safty cut off - if the cell voltage is to high.
It would be good if it would possible to put an external charging device - like the charging coils to the adaptto.
It should be no problem for the Mosfets to switch of the charging line - in case of failure.
With an charging coil - you have an boost converter. With an direct conection without any switching frequenzy it would be an good thing - specialy for voltages up to 60V (14S Limn Battery Packs) - because up to this voltage you could get high quality charging devices.
For battery packs more than 14s it makes sense to use the charging coil from adaptto - because this is an better solution.
skWarDog
100 W
In Controller Settings > Direction (+,-). Is the motor speed limited if your motor is running forward in the (-) direction? Seems this is the only way I can get a good Autodetect cycle and after some fine-tuning the motor has good acceleration and efficiency, but at about 30 mph the throttle starts cutting out? Even backing off the throttle to draw less current doesn't help, so I'm not sagging below LVC. I probably can reconfig the hall wires, if that would help? .... 20s9p LiM Batt, Mini-E, Crystalyte H-40110 DD in 26" DoubleWide rim.
skWarDog
100 W
striker54 said:
Thanks Striker, I was thinking switching hall wires, but switching phase cables sounds a lot easier!
Edit: Thanks Again, Striker54.... Perfect!
warrah
100 W
Sorry if this has already been covered... when i turn on my maxe e, i always get the !BMS! for about 5 seconds, then it goes away. This is despite the BMS seeming to work and perform all its functions. Does anybody else get this? Does it mean there is a problem?
warrah
100 W
ahh thanks buddy, really appreciate the reassurance about that. Its been such a quantum leap for me, going from infineon controller/CA/random BMS, to adaptto and all the automatic intelligent things it does, i still feel like surely there is *something* i must have missed.
skWarDog
100 W
Hey Guy's, wanted to share my AutoDetect/Initial set-up from my first good ride on 4-30. Hoping for some experienced opinions on what looks good/bad and direction with fine-tuning the Mini-E from here... Thanks to all who helped get me going, damn little thing is amazing!
1st Ride Stats:
Bike Set-up- Titus SuperMoto(short WB, Freeride), 20s9p LiM Batt, Mini-E, Crystalyte H-40110 DD in 26" DoubleWide 47mm(1.8") rim, Maxxis Hookworms(R-2.5" F-2.5" edit: I stand corrected, both are 2.5"). BTW, updated pics in build thread.
Terrain/Ride: Course was 20 miles of mostly super-tight technical single-track(think Delaware National Enduro, Greenbriar Enduro tight) all off-road, except for very few street crossings and double-track quad trails/service roads. The course left from my backyard and meandered through Mercer County Park in Central NJ, I rode it on MTB/KTM at least several hundred times before and cut it myself, I knew it well.... So my riding style was Hammersmith, no waxing the throttle here! Rode like I was chasing Micheal Lafferty and this was a skills test section, your first mistake would put you down a minute that you'll never make up and every other mistake took seconds toward the next minute.
Note: Think I did a little too much "smithing" with the front hydraulic disc brake, though, because I didn't want to(or know the limit of) regen overheating the motor/controller.... At one point I looked down, the front disc was my favorite flavor, cherry red, and I ended up deep-frying the onion ring in the front caliper by boiling the vegetable oil Tektro-TRP calls "Brake Fluid". Didn't really affect the ride, but the next day I pulled the brake lever and the caliper burped burgundy fluid on my garage floor. I replaced the o-ring, mineral oil and pads...... so, here's the stats never had e-bike stats before!
View attachment 11
View attachment 3View attachment 2
1st Ride Stats:
Bike Set-up- Titus SuperMoto(short WB, Freeride), 20s9p LiM Batt, Mini-E, Crystalyte H-40110 DD in 26" DoubleWide 47mm(1.8") rim, Maxxis Hookworms(R-2.5" F-2.5" edit: I stand corrected, both are 2.5"). BTW, updated pics in build thread.
Terrain/Ride: Course was 20 miles of mostly super-tight technical single-track(think Delaware National Enduro, Greenbriar Enduro tight) all off-road, except for very few street crossings and double-track quad trails/service roads. The course left from my backyard and meandered through Mercer County Park in Central NJ, I rode it on MTB/KTM at least several hundred times before and cut it myself, I knew it well.... So my riding style was Hammersmith, no waxing the throttle here! Rode like I was chasing Micheal Lafferty and this was a skills test section, your first mistake would put you down a minute that you'll never make up and every other mistake took seconds toward the next minute.
Note: Think I did a little too much "smithing" with the front hydraulic disc brake, though, because I didn't want to(or know the limit of) regen overheating the motor/controller.... At one point I looked down, the front disc was my favorite flavor, cherry red, and I ended up deep-frying the onion ring in the front caliper by boiling the vegetable oil Tektro-TRP calls "Brake Fluid". Didn't really affect the ride, but the next day I pulled the brake lever and the caliper burped burgundy fluid on my garage floor. I replaced the o-ring, mineral oil and pads...... so, here's the stats
never had e-bike stats before!View attachment 11
View attachment 3View attachment 2
Allex
100 MW
On Profiles setup, Option ACC, remove the limit by holding left button until it shows --- this way you will have no limits during acceleration.
Also 80A on phase? Isnt it very low? Your motor will rip better if you have more. Set it at least on 140
Throttle mode: change to torq, not speed.
ACC of on BRK: I prefer NO here.
Also 80A on phase? Isnt it very low? Your motor will rip better if you have more. Set it at least on 140
Throttle mode: change to torq, not speed.
ACC of on BRK: I prefer NO here.
skWarDog
100 W
Great Tip!Allex said:
The issue I'm having here is my current LiM split-pack is governed by it's own BMS, so I did have it set at 100A, but on hard acceleration that BMS was activating and cutting the throttle. I found 80A setting works until the pack gets to @ 20% capacity when the chemistry can't deliver anymore!?Allex said:
I hope to solve this as soon as Hobby King restocks some decent capacity 4s Lipo bricks..... unless you have a source to recommend?
Yes, this one I tried both..... your absolutely right, torq works better, especially in the tight stuff!Allex said:
Aware of this too..... waiting on a DC circuit breaker on its way (or install kill switch), but for now it's the only way I have to protect in case of a runaway throttle!Allex said:
I was also wondering how my top speed motor performance running the Mini-E looked? Almost 54mph with no OVS? From the best info I could gather, my 72V batt is BMS'ed at 45-50A constant.... Wonder what I could expect turning OVS up to 4 or 5?
Thank You, Allex! Good Stuff!
skWarDog said:
Just FYI, best emergency stop here is a small simple switch for the display power. Cut power to display, and everything stops. ACC OFF ON BRK won't help you if, for example, your +5v hall line has a wire fracture while on cruise control... disabling brake AND throttle. It sounds far fetched but it happened to me!
markass530
10 W
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2012
- Messages
- 66
I Could swear I had the power profile for boost set to about 100 amps, then someone else was fiddling with the settings or maybe I changed something and Im not able to raise the battery current past 63 amps, the weird thing though is I did a complete system reset, and still the same limit, anyone experience this>
Ohbse
10 kW
skWarDog said:
Generally you want to set your phase amps to 2-3x of your battery amps for good low speed acceleration. This should not increase your draw from the battery but at low speeds will put a smile on your face.
skWarDog
100 W
Got my C-63A circuit breaker from China today, this one is 65amps @ 125volts. Hopefully, that puts it around 100amps @ 84volts (max charge) or has a surge delay for spikes?? If I'm thinking right? I thought the Mini-E was only rated at 65amps from the battery when I ordered it? Brand is Schneider Electric...xenodius said:
xenodius, are you saying put a switch in the grey 4-wire cable (4-pin connector) coming from the controller powering the display? Or would it be sufficient to switch the red (+5v) wire from the display powering the hall throttle and Wuxing hall engine brake that's already cut? Either way, that's a great idea if it works!
Ya know, now that you say that, I'm gonna hafta revisit that fail test again!? Maybe that was happening when I didn't have the settings quite right (Direction (-) with wheel rotating forward)?Ohbse said:
sn0wchyld
100 kW
skWarDog said:
Breakers trip according to the current flowing through them, the voltage has nothing to do with it. They are after all, effectively just a switch, so if there is any notable voltage across it its absorbing allot of power, which is bad for a switch to do!! Their voltage rating ( afaik) is more to do with the ark they are able to extinguish. Higher volts means larger arks - its essentially why 12v car fuses dont work so well at 100V.
when it trips depends on the trip curve. some will trip within seconds or less at only a little over their rated current... others will take hours at 1.2x their rating. If the manufacturer hasn't provided the curves, they should have a reference (such as 'A' type or 'D' type curves) to what the curves should look like, and a google search is usually the way to go (graphs or tables that compare trip times to %rated current). you might be surprised how long they'll take to trip at even 100A - ive seen some that will take 30secs or more to trip at 2x rated current (they're made that way to handle high start up currents). I bought 5 63A units myself, so ill put 2 in parallel if they trip too fast at 120A (maxE).
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
markass530 said:
YES! precisely this happened to me, well..sort of
i take it you got a mini-e as you said it locked to 63A?
i had my minie-e on 20s set to 150A and that was ok for a while but the controller kept shutting down to protection on steep hills.
then i went to lower the currrent set in boost and found it would decrease but would not increase again past 63A. it was like the up button had died but it still worked elsewhere so i rulled that out.
Adaptto actually said that it had lowered the settings itself in response to abusively high power usage...
:lol:
scfoster
10 W
Here is a tech support request I sent to Adaptto.com regarding an E-Kross Frame + GT4000 72-96V 4000W hub build.
Any insight would be appreciated.
**UPDATE** the information I listed for the voltage was INCORRECT (thanks all of you that either publicly or via PM pointed out the error). It should be ~4.18V.
From Okashira:
Any insight would be appreciated.
**UPDATE** the information I listed for the voltage was INCORRECT (thanks all of you that either publicly or via PM pointed out the error). It should be ~4.18V.
From Okashira:
Boestin
100 W
Subscribed!
warrah
100 W
scfoster said:
Hi scfoster, i have the same setup. I think 28S would leave you too little safety room... the FETs inside the adaptto are rated for 100v, and when your cells are fully charged they will be higher then 3.3v. When people on endless sphere advise not going above 22s, they are talking about lipo/NMC chemistry, which has a charged voltage of 4.2v per cell, so 22s is the highest you can go. Because your cells are 3.3v, you could go 24s or 22s. Your gt4000 is 3 turn, so is about 11.6kv, which means if you run 72v, you'll get 840rpm, which in a 24" wheel (wack a 3.5" tyre on the 17" rim of your gt4000, you'll love it) means you'll go 60mph full throttle. Thats will be your vanilla speed, before OVS. OVS will increase that speed, so if you were looking to go 60mph+ (if that was your plan, you'll be wanting that 3.5" tyre for stability!), 24s or 22s, maybe even 20s, combined with adapttos awesome OVS, will get you all the speed you need. What you'll start to find is that the battery and controller are no longer the limits to your speed, but the motor temperatures. The gt4000 is good for 4.5kw continuous, but if you want to go 60mph continuous you need to supply about 7000w+ to that motor!
Anyway hope this helps, if ive got any of these calculations wrong please someone correct me.
scfoster
10 W
warrah said:
Warrah, thanks for the insight. So 24s it is. So I'll build a 24s4p or 24s5p.
Next step is to get all the parts and figure out how to connect all the wires.
As far as speed goes, I'm going to use it primarily in urban/city streets. The current ride with the BBS02 only takes me 25 minutes to get to work, so I'm figuring I'll shave another 5 minutes off the trip.
Thanks again.
BTW, used to work on the Isle of Wight with Westland Aerospace. Was a whole lot of fun losing drones over the Channel. That's some beautiful countryside you have North of Brighton.
Stielz
100 W
Hi, I’m wondering if anyone here can comment on the “ADDNZ” setting and what it is actually doing?
From the manual:
“Compensation for motor hum that occurs at low speeds due to the switching speed of the controller power MOSFETS.
Recommendations: MINI-E 2-3, MAX-E 5-6. Adjust by trial and error.”..
So what I would like to know is what the controller is actually doing to compensate for this motor hum?
I’m using a C80100 RC Outrunner motor. Cant notice any motor hum, however I notice that this setting effects how quickly the motor heats up..
From the manual:
“Compensation for motor hum that occurs at low speeds due to the switching speed of the controller power MOSFETS.
Recommendations: MINI-E 2-3, MAX-E 5-6. Adjust by trial and error.”..
So what I would like to know is what the controller is actually doing to compensate for this motor hum?
I’m using a C80100 RC Outrunner motor. Cant notice any motor hum, however I notice that this setting effects how quickly the motor heats up..
markass530
10 W
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2012
- Messages
- 66
If anyone else was gettting that maddening Halls error 1, for me the fix was the one I saw mentioned somewhere about holding the wheel tight at the begining of auto detect, and I mean really tight, I didn'tn have a brake on that wheel yet and had to really fight those first couple jerks the motor gives in order to get it to continue the process.
markass530
10 W
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2012
- Messages
- 66
IS this a correct statement ?
"In AWD mode the motor on the slave controller only acts as a "helper" thus won't use as much battery power as the master motor / controller"
"In AWD mode the motor on the slave controller only acts as a "helper" thus won't use as much battery power as the master motor / controller"
Similar threads
