Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Hyena]

This is a bit of a long shot but do any Aussies have a max-e they're sitting on for a project and don't need for a month or so ?
I need one for a build I'm doing and thought I had one on hand but when I opened the box it was a mini.
I'm ordering more but want to get this build finished ASAP. If you have a new one you're not using and I can take it now I will swap it for a new one in a few weeks.
Thanks

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

I haven't finished my mods, or setting up my Fighter with the Mini-E yet, but was playing around with the throttle the other day since I just got it wired up.

The smoothest curve I could get was this.

I don't fully understand how the Adaptto interprets this either. Is it just showing what the throttle curve is, or is it somehow compensating for the non-linearity of the curve and making it more linear?
Is there a way to adjust the curve to compensate for a crappy throttle?

Cheers

Hello,

This graphs show the characteristics of your throttle grip (shows as it is in fact). Our controller automatically adjusts it (i.e. makes it linear) - that is why the absolute majority of throttle grips can be used with our controller. The throttle progression can be even adjusted by using the appropriate controller menu.

Regards

 

[Adaptto E-Drives Lab]

Dear Friends,

As you've probably already noticed we've launched the Free Shipping limited offer available in May only.

Best of Luck

 

[chucho]

Maybe i am just dreaming but....

How difficuld would it be to have a "Wheelie Mode" in the new adaptto?

 

[lennovich]

with a max e you can wheelie all day long :lol: But a wheeliecontrol is not that easy i think. Think it works with gyro sensors...

 

[broke]

Put a wheelie bar on back.
You don't want to peddle your bike now you want to look cool doing something that is hard to learn with no effort. Not being a Dick but you could wheelie everywhere on a Segway

 

[scfoster]

with a max e you can wheelie all day long :lol: But a wheeliecontrol is not that easy i think. Think it works with gyro sensors...

My BWR S1000RR track bike would routinely do this when in slick mode (picture is not me but the exact same bike and color):

System uses a 3 axis gyro with sensors on both wheels to measure tire rotation speeds. Not all that difficult if one understands the math behind it.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hello,

This graphs show the characteristics of your throttle grip (shows as it is in fact). Our controller automatically adjusts it (i.e. makes it linear) - that is why the absolute majority of throttle grips can be used with our controller. The throttle progression can be even adjusted by using the appropriate controller menu.

Regards

Thank you, that is good news. I had hoped this was the case.

Can you please explain the difference between the throttle progression settings in more detail.
I can see in the manual that "Thr progr. - Set the throttle progression (0 = linear)", but what changes with the higher numbers? Does it become more non-linear with a higher value?

Cheers

 

[Bluefang]

Has anyone accidentally touched some of the screen wires to the pack voltage and had the screen go dead after? I built a bike for a friend and he cut off the throttle on the bike to replace it with a bling throttle, both have a switch on them that is used to control the head light which runs from pack voltage. The screen was off when the wires were cut but the main battery connections were not disconnected so when he cut the throttle wires the head light flashed and now the screen wont turn back on.

The screen is getting ~13V and its outputting ~5V for the throttle and variable regen sensor but no display and the bike is not functioning. Anyone know of possible fixes, or is it going to be a case of getting a new screen somehow?

 

[Boestin]

Check the wiring of the Halls plug. Remember the picture in the manual is looking at the front of the plug, not the solder points on the rear.

D0h
Absolutely right. Soldered it right and Autodetect went smooth this time!

Thanks..

 

[ridethelightning]

Check the wiring of the Halls plug. Remember the picture in the manual is looking at the front of the plug, not the solder points on the rear.

D0h
Absolutely right. Soldered it right and Autodetect went smooth this time!

Thanks..

yeah iv done that a couple times now :wink:

 

[ohzee]

Is there a throttle avaialble that had a forward and reverse motion for the variable regen ?

I purchased a domino throttle thinking it had that feature not realizing it just used the microswitch to enable regen when not turned.

 

[striker54]

Is there a throttle avaialble that had a forward and reverse motion for the variable regen ?

I purchased a domino throttle thinking it had that feature not realizing it just used the microswitch to enable regen when not turned.

I think that only vectrix have that type of throttle and is patent protected.

 

[ridethelightning]

im not sure actually how nice a two way throttle would be to use for braking. i have used a hall throttle on the left side that rotated forwards, not at all comfortable to use the discbrake with that hand at the same time...

 

[Bluefang]

I dismantled a hall throttle and glued the magnet to the brake lever and glued the hall to the brake body. They can either move apart or come together and a single magnet will get you a 1.5V range over a 5mm travel distance which is more then enough to vary regen from 0-100% in the control settings. Works perfect and is a no brainer to use as one of my test subjects(new bike owner) did not even realize i had bled air into the brakes and that he was using 90% regen braking rather then the hydraulic he was expecting.

 

[ohzee]

thanks guys. Good info all the way around.

 

[Offroader]

I dismantled a hall throttle and glued the magnet to the brake lever and glued the hall to the brake body. They can either move apart or come together and a single magnet will get you a 1.5V range over a 5mm travel distance which is more then enough to vary regen from 0-100% in the control settings. Works perfect and is a no brainer to use as one of my test subjects(new bike owner) did not even realize i had bled air into the brakes and that he was using 90% regen braking rather then the hydraulic he was expecting.

I wouldn't mind doing this but I wonder if I will lose any brake feel. When I'm doing really slow stuff I like to use the regular brakes as I have good feel and precise braking. I think there is a chance I may lose some of this.

So I keep a separate throttle for the regen and switch over to the brakes when necessary. But this isn't the best solution either as it gets confusing sometimes.

Can you post a picture of your halls and magnet attached to your brake lever.

 

[xenodius]

I dismantled a hall throttle and glued the magnet to the brake lever and glued the hall to the brake body. They can either move apart or come together and a single magnet will get you a 1.5V range over a 5mm travel distance which is more then enough to vary regen from 0-100% in the control settings. Works perfect and is a no brainer to use as one of my test subjects(new bike owner) did not even realize i had bled air into the brakes and that he was using 90% regen braking rather then the hydraulic he was expecting.

I wouldn't mind doing this but I wonder if I will lose any brake feel. When I'm doing really slow stuff I like to use the regular brakes as I have good feel and precise braking. I think there is a chance I may lose some of this.

So I keep a separate throttle for the regen and switch over to the brakes when necessary. But this isn't the best solution either as it gets confusing sometimes.

Can you post a picture of your halls and magnet attached to your brake lever.

Maybe a small switch to shunt the 5v signal to either the hall or resistor so you can enable/disable the combo braking as needed?

On my KMX I feel quite at home with both regen and throttle on thumb throttles, and brakes at hand. But I really only use my mechanical brakes for emergency stops. There are some students around here who probably shouldn't drive

My next build will be FWD... so perhaps I'll have a single combined hydraulic brake. Unlike the KMX, braking on the front wont instantly render the rear ebrake useless. I'll probably set it up so the ebrake triggers first and exploit BRK Linear so it escalates quickly before the pads hit.

 

[xenodius]

I dismantled a hall throttle and glued the magnet to the brake lever and glued the hall to the brake body. They can either move apart or come together and a single magnet will get you a 1.5V range over a 5mm travel distance which is more then enough to vary regen from 0-100% in the control settings. Works perfect and is a no brainer to use as one of my test subjects(new bike owner) did not even realize i had bled air into the brakes and that he was using 90% regen braking rather then the hydraulic he was expecting.

I wouldn't mind doing this but I wonder if I will lose any brake feel. When I'm doing really slow stuff I like to use the regular brakes as I have good feel and precise braking. I think there is a chance I may lose some of this.

So I keep a separate throttle for the regen and switch over to the brakes when necessary. But this isn't the best solution either as it gets confusing sometimes.

Can you post a picture of your halls and magnet attached to your brake lever.

Maybe a small switch to shunt the 5v signal to either the hall or resistor so you can enable/disable the combo braking as needed?

On my KMX I feel quite at home with both regen and throttle on thumb throttles, and brakes at hand. But I really only use my mechanical brakes for emergency stops. There are some students around here who probably shouldn't drive

My next build will be FWD... so perhaps I'll have a single combined hydraulic brake. Unlike the KMX, braking on the front wont instantly render the rear ebrake useless. I'll probably set it up so the ebrake triggers first and exploit BRK Linear so it escalates quickly before the pads hit.

 

[Bluefang]

Here is some pics of the brake hall sensor setup i have used. Its awesome and you dont really feel where the regen stops increasing and the hydralic brakes start activating as its a smooth increase. Sorry for the bad pics as this is the only bike i could easily take pics of, its a full motorbike sized brake setup. I have another setup on a normal bike brake but its owned by someone else .


Anyone have any suggestions for my screen issue of it not turning on? I have pmed Adappto and no response yet.
Derek

 

[Boestin]

Just did a testride with the mini-e + pas. The controller is mounted temporarly with tieraps :wink:just to test it out.

Further specs:

• Mini-E + PAS and On/Off
  Crystalyte HS4080 < still stock phasewires
  Lifepo4 Ping 36V20ah < will be replaced with Samsung 25r 72V/20ah
  Specialzed Epic Comp 2008

I'm on work today, so I'll be short:

Driving goes beyond my expectations, HUB is enormously quiet, almost no hum hearable. It's even possible to make tyre spin.
There is no PAS option visible in the menu, so that means no different firmware appearently.

On the testrun I encountered some issues. There is for instance no engine temperature visible on the screen, but when I ride for 15 seconds on max setttings, there is suddenly a weird temperature visible of about 290 degrees celcius
What follows is nothing, I can't go forward anymore for 30 seconds. The temp goes down with bumps, from 290 to 260 then 000 degrees celcius is visible again.
Has anybody encoutered this before?
Perhaps I have to switch the signal wire from the hub?

Pictures will follow.

 

[ridethelightning]

sounds like the wrong temp sensor option selected.

 

[graoully]

Sounds like a pizza oven configuration

 

[bigbore]

smart range question
How is the smart range supposed to work? I have tried it and at full throttle the motor works intermittently. If I open the throttle very slowly just before the power level where the motor started cutting then it works.
Is it a standard behavior?

 

[Boestin]

Some pictures of my setup: